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DrChu
May 14, 2002

Side Effects posted:

Cool guitar! Spirits are really sweet. A buddy of mine has two and I really like playing them when I'm over his place.

It's hard to tell, but I'm pretty sure the pickguard is just a double cut junior pickguard. Might not be exact, but it's a place to start when looking for a replacement. The pickup could be original, as the spirit was originally an Epiphone model before Gibson decided to rebrand the line and stick their logo on the headstock. Apparently on some early models they just silkscreened the Gibson logo directly over the Epiphone one after just one coat of black paint. It's not uncommon for them to do things like that either, as the Les Paul Deluxe was created specifically because they had a surplus of Epiphone mini-humbuckers they needed to use.
I printed out a DC Junior pickguard for a test fitting and its just too big. The shape is similar, but the DC Junior neck ends were it connects to the body vs the overhang on the Spirit, so the pickguard would cover the last couple frets. I guess I'll have to post on some Gibson forums and hope someone will do a tracing for me.

From the few pictures I was able to find I don't think the pickup is not original. The wiring is nothing like the other wires between the pots and output jack, and the Epiphone stamp doesn't look like others from that era. Now I'm listening to sound clips trying to figure out what to replace it with.

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DrChu
May 14, 2002

Last week I was browsing Talkbass and saw someone posted a reasonably priced Rickenbacker truss rod cover and pickguard. The next day on the front page of eBay I see an 80s 4003s body. I checked and the cover and pickguards were still available and whelp :homebrew:



I already have some pickups, but I needed some tuners and picked up the harness from the seller of the body as well. Will continue in the bass thread as I put it together.

DrChu fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Dec 12, 2016

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Thumposaurus posted:

Yeah the bend on the cover is the worst of it. It looks like it must have sat on some dudes book shelf for 30 years and then got donated.
I looked it up on amazon and some used bookstore is trying to sell one for $500:aaaaa:
I think every book has at least one Amazon seller looking for ridiculous money for it.

A first edition just went for $30 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/electric-gu...=p2047675.l2557

And its still in print - https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/electric-guitar-amplifier-handbook

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Some days you check Craigslist for one thing and then you decide to be Duff McKagan



1986 Jazz Bass Special. Not sure if it the pearl white color that has yellowed, or it was a gold that faded. Apparently it has been in a New Jersey basement for a couple decades and the case definitely smells like it, so it is covered in Lysol and waiting outside now. The bass itself needs a lot of cleaning and some surface rust removed, but the neck is straight and the electronics seem to work. Also has the most dead roundwounds I've ever played, I would almost like to try playing them except the G is about 90% rust so they're off into the trash.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

rio posted:

That's awesome. Did you get a good deal on it?
$360 + three hours of driving, so not too bad.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Captain Apollo posted:

Somebody tell me why I shouldn't buy a Traveler EG-1 for the occasional office jams.


http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/traveler-guitar-eg-1-vintage-electric-guitar?cntry=us&source=3WWRWXGP

That's only slightly cheaper/smaller than a "real" guitar like some kind of Gibson Junior or M2, either of which you could use in other situations, or easily sell if you don't want it anymore.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

According to that link the bridge has graphite saddles, so it's probably the same case with yours.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

I can't stop buying things, I should take a break from craigslist.



1999 Warwick Streamer Standard. This was their cheapo model before Rockbass existed, but it was made in Germany and I got in for $160 so I won't complain. One humbucker, passive volume and tone and the volume pot has a push-pull series/parallel switch.

The body is beat up and the neck was way out of adjustment. I got the truss rod about where it should be, and the Just-A-Nut works great (and is now up there with the EBMM truss rod wheel on the list of things I wish more basses had). Sounds like a very muddy Stingray with the dead strings on it, will replace those in the next few days after I clean up the body. Need to figure out how to clean the brass frets and if the neck needs any special oil first. Eventually I may try to refinish the body, but that project would be a ways off.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

It's not a YouTube pedal review if your gear isn't a Squier through a 10 watt Peavey Rage or a Gibson historic 59 reissue Les Paul through a Dumble, either setup played at a low enough volume that the microphone on the phone you're using to record the thing picks up the acoustic sound of the pick hitting the strings louder than the sound through the amp. Describe your "clean" sound as being straight into the amp, with just some delay/reverb, compression and maybe a boost in front of the pedal. Express amazement at how the pedal "responds to your playing dynamics" like it's the first overdrive ever that gets more distorted if you play harder. It is also important that the pedal you got to change your tone is "transparent" so it doesn't affect your tone. And whatever kind of bypass it has is the right kind of bypass because you need to keep this hype train going and once you get 5K subscribers an Asian copycat producer might send you some cheapo review units.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Had the day off work and oops



Ibanez 2354LB, a lawsuit-era copy of a Gibson EB-3L with slotted headstock. Unlike the Gibson this has a bolt on neck, and the scale may be different (33.5 on this, 34.5 on the real thing). $100 with case, but has some issues which I'll complain about in the bass thread.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

The last thing I need is a new project but I have no self control when cheapish stuff pops up on craigslist.



~1980 Fender Lead II. I think it was originally black and had the finish stripped, the pickguard cut down and some weirdo humbucker put in the bridge position.



Its more like two single coils put right next to each other, the seller said he couldn't figure out who made it. No idea if the electronics work, I plan on getting a stock pickguard and something single coil shaped for the bridge, the neck pickup looks stock and if it still works I'll keep it.

I plan on cleaning up the neck and refinishing the body. It was sanded down to what seems to be a Fullerplast sealer which will not be easy to remove, so I'll just try to fix the damaged areas and spray a dark transparent mocha/walnut finish on top of that.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Schlieren posted:

They cut that pickguard too

Yeah, that's another reason why I'm replacing it with a stock one.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

widefault posted:

I guess technically this one is supposed to be 22.7", but it's dead on 22.5" from the middle saddle to nut with the intonation as good as it's going to get.

Take the measurement from nut to 12th fret and double it, it won’t be variable like using a saddle.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

I celebrated finally getting rid of the PMI on my mortgage by buying a guitar that only costs slightly more than my old monthly payment.



Its a Firefly FF338, $150 from Amazon. I wanted the walnut/brown stain, but this was in stock and I was going to be home for the delivery window so I went for it. Only had a few minutes to mess with it and its pretty good for the price. Haven't tried adjusting the truss rod yet, but I was able to drop the bridge to get the action somewhat acceptable. However with its price there are some issues:



Hard to make out, but somebody went to town on the end of that last fret. Its flattened out and some finish has been taken off.


The fret end doesn't bother me because its not somewhere that matters to me, but I am going to see that misaligned 12th fret marker every time I look down at it, so it may be going back :-/

It feels good to play though, and projects sound well enough to keep in the living room to be able to play without having to always plug in.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

rickiep00h posted:

The PMI difference, I think. Payments are now $150 less.

edit: I hope, because drat.

The Muppets On PCP posted:

the pmi, it's the insurance on top of your mortgage you have to pay if your down payment is below like 20% and you don't qualify for an fha loan

These are correct, I worded it poorly in my post. My actual mortgage payment is closer to a MIA Fender a month than a Firefly.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Needed a way to practice guitar using headphones and using modelers on my PC was more frustrating than not. I was looking into other options then this popped up on craigslist a few days ago for super cheap so I figured I'd give it a try.



Its a Fender Mustang GT 40 with matching footswitch. So far I've only had about an hour to mess with it and just ended up getting lost in the presets. By default they have all the effects on which sounds like garbage, but I found a couple to use as a starting point to make a basic clean/dirty/distorted bank to begin with. Hopefully I'll be able to get a couple decent bass presets made as well.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Looks like a Matsumoku-made bass, possibly like this Raven branded one:

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/pickups-in-a-raven-matsumoku-guitars-bass.1391175/

Take the pick guard off and see if that awful faux wood shelf liner is covering up another pickup route and switch area.

Edit: looks like they made a single pickup version as well, which may be more likely since it lacks neck binding like yours - https://www.reddit.com/r/Guitar/comments/5bibzn/question_raven_bass_guitar_jbass_from_the_60s70s/

DrChu fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Sep 23, 2020

DrChu
May 14, 2002

widefault posted:



"Polaris" branded copy of a Fender Lead 1 in poopy mocha brown
This is pretty much the color I want to paint my Lead II when I finally get around to it. I need to figure out how to get the right mix of dyes into clearcoat to get that semi-transparent, looks like a stain but actually isn't look.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

widefault posted:

Seriously? Why? It's just the worst. BUT, it should just be a walnut stain to get the right look.
Yeah, it just looks right on that period of instruments. Its more than just a stain, since when it wears away you see the natural wood underneath like a normal paint job, a stain wouldn't do that. This is as close to a formula as I've found, however the dyes I have are yellow/brown/red rather than amber/walnut/cherry so there's a chance it turns out a disaster:

http://guitargarage.blogspot.com/2008/06/1973-telecaster-bass-re-modification.html

DrChu
May 14, 2002


Not an instrument yet, but the start of a parts Precision build.

Its from a Squier CV 70's Precision Bass. I don't like the look of a bound and blocked maple neck on a P bass, and I was probably going to change the pickup anyway so I'll put this together myself. The finish looks good, but the top and back are actually veneers. I kinda expected that for $100, and its dark enough you can't really tell. There is enough finish in the neck pocket that it feels like it could be a shim, but it seems like it would be easy enough to remove if I have to.

For necks I'm looking for a recent US made Precision with maple fretboard. I had a 2008 American Standard for a while that I loved the neck on, but the rest of the bass didn't really do anything for me so I sold or traded it. I'm finding it more difficult to find parted out neck than expected though.

For the pickup I'm thinking either an EMG Geezer or G&L MFD.

Bridge will either be a Badass II I have in my parts collection, or a standard vintage style one.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Still working on my parts P build, but I saw this on craigslist yesterday for $60, which had been up for a day and somehow still available:



~2000 MIM Precision Bass. The ad said it had a bad truss rod and electronics. I tightened it up when I got home and a day later haven't noticed any change :shrug: The pickup is a Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounder, the wiring job is complete garbage but I tried the leads directly from the pickup to an amp and that seemed to work fine so I know the pickup is good at least.

The bridge sucks, I have no idea why someone would change the stock MIM one to this. The saddle adjustment screws stick out a good 1/4" above the saddles, which are almost all at the bottom of their travel since the bottom plate is about twice as thick as a normal bridge. If a stock bridge covers the extra holes they made to install this I'll use that, otherwise I'll need something bigger like a Badass II. The one-ply pickguard is all warped so that will be replaced, as well as pots, knobs, and strings.

The body is a little beat up but not terrible, definitely needs a deep cleaning. The neck has some weird wear in the finish, not enough to hinder playing but you kinda feel it. Like it was stored for a long time in a box of Legos with some weight on top. I expect some wear from resting on stands or amps, but usually confined to a couple areas, this is all over though.

I thought about flipping it once I saw it was mostly salvageable, but once I started playing it reminded me of the first bass I had - a MIM P I got in the mid-90s. Mostly the neck, my hand felt at home on it almost instantly. I'll probably keep it around a while until that feeling fades.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Looks like a 1978 ES175 with a replaced tailpiece.

https://www.mylespaul.com/threads/identifying-aria-sg-copy.386052/

Pull the pickups to check if they're single coils.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Not entirely comfortable taking off the headplate with all the strings attached

though, i kind of dislike the plain strings over wound strings, I'm finding my fingers are more easily "slipping"

edit: I'm noticing some electronic issues, the aux slot is kind of worn in (jiggle the cable slightly and the amp produces some feedback) and the RHYTHM/TREBLE 3-way switch on it either is broken, or perhaps one of the two humbuckers is broken/shorted because setting it to TREBLE leaves no amplfication, and you gotta jiggle it a little bit because you may be able to set it back to RHYTHM with no amplification when it was working on that setting a moment before. anyone know how I'd fix that?

Not sure what you’d mean by head plate or why you’d have to remove it. Or why the plain strings on this would feel different compared to any other guitar.

It sounds like this has some wiring issues. You’re going to need to remove the rear control cover and inspect all the wiring connections and resolder anything that’s loose, and possible bend the contacts back into position on the output back and switch if possible as has been suggested.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Dog_Meat posted:

Yup. My 2009 Gibson LP was a Facebook market purchase and had a few minor dings. It made the price better but also removed the fear to actually get out and play it.

Yeah, my 2016 is a nitro finish and I'm in a temporary music room setup right now so my hooks are cheapo Chinese foam things that leave a horrible scummy layer on there. I just scrape it off, but eventually I'll get some proper hooks when the room is refurbed.

That layer is the foam breaking down the nitro, pretty soon you won't have much left to scrape off. Put a t-shirt or something between the hooks and the guitar.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

First time getting a pedal that isn't some kind of drive in a while





Pendulum by Mantic

I got it to use as an envelope whatever pedal, but it does a few more things than that. Basically throw some other pedals into its loop and the intensity of your playing can cause them to blend in (or the opposite, the harder you play the more they get removed).

It can also do volume swell/Slow Gear type stuff, tremolo, a patterned tremolo, and some side chaining and MIDI stuff I'll probably never use. I only got to play with it a little bit so far and its going to take so tweaking to get things set up just right, all the ports being on one side makes things a little cramped, and unfortunately some functions are hidden behind that shift button so its not completely intuitive. Also the whole package smells like cigarettes which is always a surprise when that hits you in the face.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Opened the Opsix I got from Korg's Reverb shop a few days ago and the screen seems fine. Now to figure out how to use this thing.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Based on the lack of shine I think its a Faded G-400 - https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/EGGVWCCH--epiphone-faded-g-400-worn-cherry

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Finally received my cheap Squier Starcaster from ProAudioStar





The pictures aren't great but its the translucent walnut color.

Aside from a couple minor cosmetic issues and it needing a setup, my only complaint is the nut feels a little sharp, like they didn't round over the corners enough. If I can get it set up to my liking and decide to keep it, that should be an easy fix though.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Monoprice was blowing out some of their "Stage Right" amps last week and picked up this 30W 1x12 setup for kinda cheap. I got this for home use to replace a Mesa DC-3 that's a pile of garbage, hopefully this is more reliable. It is quite a bit bigger than I expected though.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Krustic posted:

I bought one of these EHX pitchfork+ pedals basically just because it was 100 dollars off and because I used to have a POG that was fun. Looking forward to making many dumb noises with it.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PitchForkP--electro-harmonix-pitch-fork-and-polyphonic-pitch-shift-pedal
Was not planning on buying a pedal for a while but they had Demo version of this for even cheaper and I went for it.

They've already called about the order, I forgot that part about dealing with Sweetwater.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

TotalLossBrain posted:

It shows some evidence of cheesy construction, like this sticker pretending to be a pick guard.



Are you sure that's not a protective film on top of the pickguard?

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Crossposting from the bass thread:

New bass this week



Ibanez EHB1265MS. Yeah, what a name. Electric Headless Bass something something something 5 string Multi-Scale. Most of my current basses are the standard Fenders, Musicman, Rickenbacker, etc, and I've been wanting to try something different. I've been seeing these hit discounts online for a while, but I saw someone selling one locally on craigslist and finally decided to go for it.

I haven't gotten much play time with it yet but I'm liking it so far. The neck is pretty flat front to back and is noticeably easier to play than my Stingray 5. The multiscale aspect (35" on the B, 33" on the G) hasn't been too hard to adapt to, with the higher range a little more affected than the lower. The most difficult part is if I'm moving from a low note to high without looking, I don't always land in the correct spot. I figure that will improve once I get some muscle memory.

The tone seems fine but it needs new strings so I don't want to make any big judgements on that aspect until I do that. The truss rod could use a little tightening to bring the action down a bit but the setup is good otherwise. It came with a ramp I'm considering trying, I'm so used to resting my thumb on pickups and the angled ones make that a little more difficult. Weight is pretty low and there's no balance issues.

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Slothful Bong posted:



lol this is great, I just bought an EHB1505MS myself! Got to compare it against the EHB1005MS - they both played similarly, the 1005 was a little lighter, but I liked the look of the 1505 more and the Nordstrand pickups were a huge leap for the music I play. Not sure that was worth $500 more tbh, but the overall quality of the bass is high so I don’t feel ripped off.

Was planning on a strandberg, but not finding a local one to play meant I wasn’t comfortable dropping $3400. This was half the cost, sounds very dingwally, has a pretty useful mid-sweep, and is light-ish. Neck seems to be straight, no obvious issues or construction fuckups. Action is around 1.5mm to 2.75mm, I’d like to go a little lower but fretwork is causing a little too much buzzing below this.

My only complaints are it needs some minor fretwork and the pickups should be much more rounded - the ramp should help when I install it, but without it I can’t find a comfortable spot to anchor my thumb.


Other thing in the pic is a Cordoba Stage electric nylon. Since I’d budgeted for a strandberg I used the extra money to grab this - it’s cool!

I’ve always wanted a Godin ever since I played their weird 11 string nylon electric years ago, but the cost and really quiet acoustic sound turned me off. When the Ibanez TODs came out I was interested, but the tone was really far from what I was looking for.

This is probably the closest I’ve found at a good price point - it’s loud enough to hear unplugged, action is very electric guitar, and the electronics are decent so it’s easy to get a passable recorded tone.

Those Nordstrand Big Splits are nice pickups. Basically Precision style without the offset. I listened to some comparisons between them and the Barts on lower end models like the 1005 and my 1265 and that neck pickup is real clear and solid. A set costs over $300, so if you were going to upgrade anyway the price difference doesn't mean that much.

DrChu fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Feb 7, 2024

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DrChu
May 14, 2002

Sockington posted:

Decided it was time for a neck pickup but didn’t want to ruin the stock pickguard.



For a second I thought you were mocking up a sliding pickup like a Gibson Grabber.


Modal Auxiliary posted:

Might change out the pickups in the Ibanez at some point, no matter how I dial things in they still sound a bit too dark for a lot of applications.
If you don't care about keeping a similar level output between active and passive modes, on most of these preamps there's a +6DB connection you just need to move one connector to (no soldering, just unplug and replug in) that should give you more headroom.

DrChu fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Feb 8, 2024

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