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"Failure" may be a bit of a strong term. It's not a binary good-until-it-breaks thing (usually), the rings gradually wear out over time naturally. Exhaust smell in the crankcase + excessive oil use definitely points to it, but it's not necessarily a big problem. What I'd do is take it to a mechanic, tell them your symptoms and have them do a compression check (or get a tester and do it yourself if you feel comfortably, but removing spark plugs on most Subarus is a bastard due to the flat engine layout; the forester may be better) to see if compression is still within spec. If it's OK, you're good, just keep topping oil up as needed and quit worrying about it. If not, you're looking at either a rebuild or a new engine; now, you can drive on an engine with low compression, it'll just be down on power/fuel economy, so you generally won't be stranded by it. Still, that's a short-term solution while you save up for repairs rather than a final answer. TL;DR: Get your compression tested.
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 03:17 |
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# ? May 6, 2024 02:41 |
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Slavvy posted:Do a compression test. Even better, a leak down test, if you have an air compressor handy.
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 03:18 |
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Tires. I need 'em. I got a 2011 Civic LX, 45k miles. I want the cheapest tires that don't suck for Ordinary Driving. I live in the south, so rain and potholes are the only major hazards I face on a regular basis. e: If it helps, the closest tire shop lists the Cooper Zeon RS3 as "best value." That's a price I could get behind but I just want to make sure I'm avoiding any notoriously lovely brands. the numa numa song fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Feb 3, 2015 |
# ? Feb 3, 2015 03:25 |
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Decided to look for a much cheaper used car, must be turbo. Does the Volvo s40 2.5L T tune well without hardware upgrades.
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 03:42 |
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with a 4 cylinder engine. My car knowledge is fairly minimal. I'm now at ~115k miles and the Toyota dealership that I take my car to is now recommending the following: Coolant System Service Power Steering Fluid Service Auto Transmission Fluid System Service Minor Tuneup Induction/Injection Service All of thise is going to cost me ~$800-$900. I was talking to my dad who was telling me that he hasn't had much luck when they "flush his transmission". I was wondering if all of this is legitimate work that needs to be done to my car since it's passed the 100k mile mark like the dealership is leading me to believe and that I'm not getting taken for a ride.
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 03:53 |
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Could anyone recommend a place to rebuild a rack and pinion in Northern California? Mine is leaking quite badly from both bellows, and the teardown process in my service manual to change the seals makes it look quite difficult. A friend has tried replacing his twice (Same car as mine, and both were claimed to be remanufactured with new seals) with the ones available at AutoZone, and found they leak almost immediately. Tried the dealership, and they were quite uninterested in fixing my existing one, and said they couldn't track down a Nissan reman unit either. Car is an '89 Nissan Pulsar NX if it matters.
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 03:54 |
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Koaxke posted:I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with a 4 cylinder engine. My car knowledge is fairly minimal. The price doesn't sound obscene but I don't know if it's fair...sounds about what I'd expect, I guess. Auto trans fluid (ATF) needs to be changed at some point. Have you checked it to see if it looks good/bad, or smells like burning? If it's black instead of red or smells awful it probably needs to be done. You can do it yourself (basically you remove the bottom panel of the transmission and let it all dump out) but I can almost guarantee you'll end up wearing half of it. Power steering fluid is the same way...a lot of cars even use ATF for it (I dunno about yours). Coolant should be done every couple of years. I don't know what the last two on your list entail.
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 04:03 |
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Am I translating this from dealership speak correctly? Coolant System Service - coolant flush and fill, $40 of coolant Power Steering Fluid Service - flush and fill power steering fluid, maybe $25 of PS fluid if it uses some fancy toyota stuff Auto Transmission Fluid System Service - drain and fill of ATF, $50 in fluids (or I guess they flush it with a fancy vaccuum?) Minor Tuneup - ? Induction/Injection Service - Clean MAF, new spark plugs, run some Techron through it...$30 in parts? If you are DIY-ing, you could do it for obviously way cheaper, and none of that poo poo is very hard. At the very least, price that list of stuff out at a non-dealer mechanic, or talk to a buddy who is willing to spend a weekend helping you out.
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 04:31 |
Koaxke posted:I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with a 4 cylinder engine. My car knowledge is fairly minimal. Coolant is due around 80,000mi on them. Power steering service is unnecessary but nice to do I guess. Auto trans fluid is every 50-60,000mi. Minor Tuneup doesn't mean poo poo, unless they mean check/replace plugs? Induction/Injection Service will be an air filter and/or fuel filter. Reminds me a lot of Toyota's ol 'checked and lubed door hinges/latches'.
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 08:08 |
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Koaxke posted:I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with a 4 cylinder engine. My car knowledge is fairly minimal. Definitely get a quote from another mechanic. Most places I've been to will charge one hour labor for each of these services. At $100/hour, that's almost half the price of the dealer.
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 09:06 |
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Cellular Suicide posted:2003 Subaru Forester X auto, 146,xxx miles. Yes to all of the above. The miles alone suggest the rings are going to be fairly worn. They wear, there's no way around it. As long as the compression is within ~5-10% across all cylinders, even if it's on the low side, I'd just keep an eye on the oil and drive it. If you're that attached to the car, I'd personally wait until oil consumption is enough to cause visible smoke before tearing into it. And at that point I'd consider a low mileage used engine, personally. Jamal (and many others) can chime in about how picky Subaru engines are about rebuilds. Discombobulator posted:Tires. I need 'em. I got a 2011 Civic LX, 45k miles. I want the cheapest tires that don't suck for Ordinary Driving. I live in the south, so rain and potholes are the only major hazards I face on a regular basis. If you have Discount Tire in your area, check with them. The cheapest tires for my car were Ohtsu - which is Falken's parent company. They were cheap (cheapest tires available for my car actually), they're quieter than the tires I had before, and they seem to handle and wear fine. I don't expect them to last more than 35k, but for what I paid ($55/ea in 205/55R16), I'm happy with them. Kumho makes a fantastic tire for the price, and is usually my go-to brand if I want anything beyond the cheapest tire I can find. Koaxke posted:I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with a 4 cylinder engine. My car knowledge is fairly minimal. You can do the "minor tuneup" yourself - it's just a set of spark plugs and a new air filter. The plugs will be the most expensive part - you'll need Denso Iridium plugs if you want to stick with the original equipment plugs, but you can order them from Rockauto.com for much less than the dealer will charge you (probably $8/ea if I had to guess from Rockauto, and I'd guess at least 2x from the dealer). May even be able to find them at AutoZone. NGK plugs are a perfectly appropriate replacement, and easier to find locally (AutoZone carries pretty much their full line) - just stick with iridium plugs if you want to stick with the factory maintenance schedule. Platinum plugs are much cheaper, but iridium plugs will last longer, and are what your car came with from the factory. The "injection service" is probably a bottle of fuel injector treatment added to the tank. Induction service is probably just cleaning the throttle body, which is pretty easy to do with nothing more than a couple of hand tools, paper towels, and brake cleaner (assuming the throttle body doesn't need to be recalibrated). You should change the coolant at this point, it would be a good idea to change the automatic transmission fluid (just a drain/fill, not a full flush), and changing the PS fluid wouldn't be a bad idea. Honestly, the hardest part of this will be changing the transmission fluid, if you want to actually flush it and not just drain what's in the transmission pan (which is roughly 1/3 of what the entire transmission holds). $900 is about what I'd expect a dealer to charge; a good independent shop should about half. The only criticals would be the coolant and spark plugs, IMO, closely followed by the transmission fluid. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:44 on Feb 3, 2015 |
# ? Feb 3, 2015 09:38 |
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some texas redneck posted:Yes to all of the above. The miles alone suggest the rings are going to be fairly worn. They wear, there's no way around it. Thanks for the input everyone. I've never gone anywhere but the dealership to have my car serviced. What should I look for to find a good independent shop? Should I use Yelp? Are there any other good services that would provide legit reviews of the shop?
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 14:01 |
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Is my mechanic lying to me part 429 I just had the handbrake (shoe, lever, some other bits) replaced on my Land Rover (it is a blue one) - I drove away from the mechanic, about 2 miles at varying speeds up to 60 before I noticed that my buttocks were slightly MORE numb than usual from an additional vibration above and beyond what you'd usually expect from a british 4x4 diesel, got out, checked the wheels and one of them was heating up. Took it back (driving slowly the whole 2 miles), they adjusted the brake cable, told me no damage would have been done. I'm always wary when a mechanic says "Oh we hosed this thing up but don't worry (we really don't want to pay out twice for parts)", is it true or not?
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 21:24 |
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cynic posted:Is my mechanic lying to me part 429 Considering not all Land Rovers have a hand brake that's connected to brakes on the wheels none of this may make any sense at all depending on which model. Which is why it says in the OP that this is necessary information. Which you obviously read. And still didn't follow.
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 23:00 |
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You drove four miles with the rear brakes sort of on I guess.
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# ? Feb 3, 2015 23:29 |
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Hoping for a quick fix as the car may have to get on the road tonight: Part of the front underside covering on my girlfriend's 07 Toyota Camry was peeled back by some ice that accumulated underneath during a blizzard. Backed it out of the stall and part of it peeled back and is now just dangling underneath. I don't think it'll fall of on its own but would like to see if it's something I can fix myself if I can get underneath it before the next snow. Best picture I could find of the underside of a Camry ('12). It's the front plastic section, the red line is the part that is actively hanging down and the rest seems to still be attached. Is there just a section that snaps somewhere in there or did it rip out a bolt or something? I couldn't find any broken pieces in the snow where the car was parked. e: An acquaintance said it should snap back in somehow but after a few shoves and whacks, I only managed to pull out a bunch of ice that was wedged up underneath it. Pleads fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Feb 4, 2015 |
# ? Feb 3, 2015 23:30 |
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barring nothing else just zip tie it up until you can get a better look at it
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 02:29 |
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They usually do pop back into place. It might need a couple of those plastic push-nut things for trim panels. Or it might be cracked, in which case zip ties! Black ones, please.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 07:59 |
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Koaxke posted:Thanks for the input everyone. I've never gone anywhere but the dealership to have my car serviced. What should I look for to find a good independent shop? Should I use Yelp? Are there any other good services that would provide legit reviews of the shop? Yelp is generally a good resource for small shops, IMO. There's also Car Talk's Mechanics Files, which is how I found my first independent shop (that was 18 years ago, and I still send anyone with a Honda or Acura to them. I'm also still using a spinoff of that shop - the owner's son-in-law opened his own shop a few years back). I found the son-in-law's shop on Yelp by pure chance - I'd moved to a different city, and was looking through Yelp to find a shop to get a wheel bearing replaced. Saw his name pop up, went "wait, that name sou.. no way, that can't be Jason.. *pulls up website* gently caress, it is Jason!". The review I left for his shop got me my first Review of the Day on Yelp too. He has all 5 star reviews, except for a single 1 star, and he's tried reaching out to them several times to find out what went wrong and what he can do to make it right. He can't find their name in his customer files, so he's fairly sure it's just a fake review. Anyway, it'd be best to find a shop that works on Subarus in particular; if there's one in your area. At the least, I'd avoid the big chain shops (Firestone [nothing against you, 13 Inch], Goodyear, etc).
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 08:09 |
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A few months ago the Saabaru started abruptly humming from what sounded like the front right corner (but possibly could've been right rear) at about 120. I slowed down and it went away. I've since rotated the tires. The other day it did it again at about 100, front right corner again (first time I'd been driving that fast since last time I heard the noise). Wheel bearing?
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 15:20 |
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cynic posted:Is my mechanic lying to me part 429 Motronic is right (you didn't give us model or year, just make) but the answer is, well, probably not. It may have worn the brake shoes on that corner slightly more than usual.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 16:23 |
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blk posted:A few months ago the Saabaru started abruptly humming from what sounded like the front right corner (but possibly could've been right rear) at about 120. I slowed down and it went away. I've since rotated the tires. The other day it did it again at about 100, front right corner again (first time I'd been driving that fast since last time I heard the noise). Wheel bearing? Yes, most likely. Just went through this with my LGT. I could even get it to act up/more or less depending on steering wheel position. i.e. if the load shifted off the tire a little bit, the noise would reduce with the shifted load. It will continue to get worse until it's pretty much just a constant annoyance - won't hurt anything. IIRC, it should be a hub assembly, just get the part off rock auto or amazon and go to town.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 16:49 |
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Probably wheel bearing, but yeah, it might be pressed in depending on year. On mine (a 2000) I had to press the hub out of the bearing, then the bearing out of the knuckle, then reverse the process.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 17:05 |
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I need to connect an add-a-fuse to a cigarette lighter socket with leads on it. This is for a usb powered bluetooth dongle thingy. My regular cig lighters stay on all the time and I need this one to switch with the radio. Should I use solder and heatshrink or a butt splice to make these connections? Also, is there typically a good ground in the fuse box or somewhere around the steering wheel? 01 suburban for what it's worth.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 18:00 |
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kastein posted:Probably wheel bearing, but yeah, it might be pressed in depending on year. On mine (a 2000) I had to press the hub out of the bearing, then the bearing out of the knuckle, then reverse the process. Doh, you're probably correct. I forget the imprezzas were behind the curve on the hub/bearing assembly. Ultimately, shouldn't be hard to determine by a quick parts search.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 18:08 |
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PuTTY riot posted:I need to connect an add-a-fuse to a cigarette lighter socket with leads on it. This is for a usb powered bluetooth dongle thingy. My regular cig lighters stay on all the time and I need this one to switch with the radio. Should I use solder and heatshrink or a butt splice to make these connections? Also, is there typically a good ground in the fuse box or somewhere around the steering wheel? 01 suburban for what it's worth. Kind of confused with what you're trying to do - do you need constant power or something that turns on and off with the stereo? I'd just buy one of these, plug it into a fuse in your fuse panel that meets your power requirements (something that turns on and off with the key should be close enough to on and off with the stereo) and run a wire to wherever you need power. As far as ground, any metal part under the dash should do.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 18:12 |
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Additionally to that, if PuTTY riot has an aftermarket stereo, they can just connect to the amp remote turn on wire from the stereo, assuming the part they're adding doesn't consume more than a few hundred mA.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 18:43 |
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antisocial86 posted:So I have this truck. A 2007 F350 6.0L. Yesterday my throttle decided to not respond occasionally, then took a complete poo poo and wouldn't even restart for about thirty cranks. The check engine came on and I have only occasional throttle control. Looks like an easy fix, the throttle position sensor, which is conveniently attached to the throttle pedal and is held on by 3 bolts and 2 little plugs. The video to fix it on YouTube is 3 minutes long. Update! I got the OBD2 and Torque and just plugged it in and it's throwing the following faults: p0336 which says its a crank shaft fault P2291 which is a "injector control pressure too low, engine cranking" And p0299 which is a throttle something something. Am I bonered or should I grab a new pedal? Thanks for the help guys I'm pretty retarded. Edit: the p0299 is the current fault which is throwing my check engine light on. antisocial86 fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Feb 4, 2015 |
# ? Feb 4, 2015 20:11 |
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P0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance (probably either the sensor or harness.) P2291 - Injector Ctrl Press Too Low (I'd start with your fuel filter.) P0299 - Turbocharger/Supercharger "A" Underboost Condition (I'd wager the variable geometry turbo vanes are jammed.)
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 20:20 |
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Most things I can find about P2291 online are indicating that it's a leak somewhere in the high pressure oil system (the seals I mentioned, the high pressure oil rails that feed the injectors, the standpipes, the standpipe dummy plugs, the HPOP, or some filter screen fitting) and that it generally causes hard starts, failed starts, lovely running and similar symptoms. P0299 I agree with Geoj. P0336 is likely the sensor or harness, so I agree with Geoj on that one too. E: I googled about P2291 and found a PowerStroke 6.0 manual, and it verifies that the ICP P2291 code is because you don't have enough pressure on the HPOP output circuit. That means either the HPOP has failed or something is leaking the oil out so it can't build pressure, so basically what I listed above. Sorry, dude, it's called a 6.0hno for a reason. The ICP is buried under exhaust parts on the back of the block, you can try replacing it but I'd recommend further diagnostics before spending money on parts. Apparently people pressurize the system with compressed air and watch for bubbles. Fix all the common issues with the high pressure oil system while you're in there, like the filter screen ("every 6.0 has, or will have, a filter screen failure" is the quote I found on a ford trucks forum regarding this) and standpipe+injector O-rings, etc. Here's a fairly detailed explanation of how your engine and engine management system work. http://www.powerstrokediesel.com/docs/EF_456.pdf kastein fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Feb 4, 2015 |
# ? Feb 4, 2015 21:21 |
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Anyone know of a good place outside of ebay for used auto parts online? My local salvage yards aren't very helpful, and ebay is fine. Just looking to search a bit more. Broke the drat dash bezel while trying to pull it out of my 00 4Runner. Just disintegrated near one of the tabs. New replacements are like 330$--no loving way I'm doing that.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 21:28 |
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LeeMajors posted:Anyone know of a good place outside of ebay for used auto parts online? car-part.com Probably not exactly what you are thinking of, but its kind of the go-to site for used parts.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 21:47 |
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Geoj posted:Kind of confused with what you're trying to do - do you need constant power or something that turns on and off with the stereo? some texas redneck posted:Additionally to that, if PuTTY riot has an aftermarket stereo, they can just connect to the amp remote turn on wire from the stereo, assuming the part they're adding doesn't consume more than a few hundred mA. I have the following: and a tape-->3.5mm adapter. My stock cig lighters are constant. That stupid bluetooth thing was $3.50 and only really pairs well when it's power cycled. So yeah, I want it to turn on and off with the stereo to literally save five seconds of unplugging and plugging the dongle back in. My question is when I connect the wires together, should I use solder and heat shrink, or a crimped butt splice or whatever the connector is called on that add-a-fuse. Or does it not matter in the least?
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 22:00 |
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Brigdh posted:car-part.com Thanks bud, that is exactly what I was looking for.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 22:02 |
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kastein posted:Most things I can find about P2291 online are indicating that it's a leak somewhere in the high pressure oil system (the seals I mentioned, the high pressure oil rails that feed the injectors, the standpipes, the standpipe dummy plugs, the HPOP, or some filter screen fitting) and that it generally causes hard starts, failed starts, lovely running and similar symptoms. So new TPC pedal deal and get my mechanic to run through the HPOP and spend my life savings. Haha thanks guys.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 22:54 |
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Best username.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 23:02 |
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PuTTY riot posted:My question is when I connect the wires together, should I use solder and heat shrink, or a crimped butt splice or whatever the connector is called on that add-a-fuse. Or does it not matter in the least? Doesn't matter in the least, since it already has the splice attached I'd just go with that. And unless you routinely take long trips I would think a circuit that turns off with the key would be sufficient for periodic power cycling and you won't have to worry about sufficient current. antisocial86 posted:So new TPC pedal deal No...that code is pointing towards your turbo not producing enough boost, likely because the variable vanes are stuck. You'll need to have the turbo serviced or rebuilt.
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# ? Feb 4, 2015 23:26 |
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So I've got this 1999 Camry and one of the turn signal cluster light lenses was missing. In its place someone stuck in a translucent green wrapper from some Asian candy in the hole where the plastic lens used to be. I've been looking online for the past hour and can't find a replacement. Does anyone know where I can find a tiny green plastic lens for my Camry?
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# ? Feb 5, 2015 03:20 |
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Toadstool posted:
Try this site. They helped me with stuff on my '96 Camry.
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# ? Feb 5, 2015 03:40 |
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# ? May 6, 2024 02:41 |
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Toadstool posted:
You probably have to order the bezel. If you have a self service junkyard nearby, you can rip apart just about any cluster to get that piece of plastic. Or find a same generation Camry and pull the cluster apart to get the bezel. If you don't mind transparent green, I have some plastic that's about half of the thickness that's meant for photography (I got a sample pack and cut them down to use with my flashes) - you could fold it over itself a few times to make it thicker/darker. Or maybe get a scrap of darkish window tint and a green LED? PuTTY riot posted:I have the following: Honestly, if you're going through this much trouble, why not just get a cheap aftermarket head unit? Crutchfield includes installation instructions and everything you need to install it on most stereos over $100. This one would be great if you don't want an actual CD player, while this is the cheapest decent brand CD player with Bluetooth. If you have the Bose factory system you may need some extra adapters; you can tell their website what options you have and it'll figure out what you need. (hint: if it has onstar, it's long dead, as a 2001 model relied on analog cell towers - so you can likely get by without any Onstar adapters - double check with them to be sure though). The only way you'll be able to get it to power cycle with the stereo is if the stereo has a provision for a power antenna (it likely doesn't); even if you do find an unused wire meant for that, it may switch off whenever it's playing a tape. If you're dead set on keeping the factory stereo (WHY?!), just get a cheap switch and mount it to the dash somewhere. But I'd just replace the whole stereo, personally. You're already tearing into the dash in some way at this point anyway. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Feb 5, 2015 |
# ? Feb 5, 2015 08:38 |