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There is a rather large hole in the right boot on my power steering rack. I've bought a new one but what all do I need to do? So far I'm thinking just take the old one off slop the new one full of cv grease and put it on. Anything else or is that completely wrong?
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Feb 27, 2007 19:33
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fooquestionmark posted:There is a rather large hole in the right boot on my power steering rack. I've bought a new one but what all do I need to do? So far I'm thinking just take the old one off slop the new one full of cv grease and put it on. Anything else or is that completely wrong? I assume you're referring to the CV joint/boot? (kind of unrelated to the steering rack) Are you replacing the whole CV or just the boot? What car is this on?
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Feb 27, 2007 20:59
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SpitztheGreat posted:I agree with the fact that the oil leaks but if I were to get the oil pan replaced, thus stopping the leak would it make a difference then? No the engine is only a 3.0 V6 but for it's age it runs well and with all the "special" oils out there for "high mileage engines" I was just wondering if any of them actually make a difference.  v
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Feb 27, 2007 21:44
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snugglz posted:I assume you're referring to the CV joint/boot? (kind of unrelated to the steering rack) Are you replacing the whole CV or just the boot? What car is this on? No there is a boot on the power steering rack much like this:  This is on a 95 BMW M3
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Feb 27, 2007 22:19
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Is a 1982 Datsun 280ZX (specifically this one) A terrible choice for a first car? I know i'll probably be working on it a bit but it looks like such a fun car.
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Feb 27, 2007 22:20
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AdeptaCheese posted:Is a 1982 Datsun 280ZX (specifically this one) A terrible choice for a first car? I know i'll probably be working on it a bit but it looks like such a fun car. Make sure its not rusty, but I'd say go for it.
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Feb 27, 2007 22:27
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fooquestionmark posted:There is a rather large hole in the right boot on my power steering rack. I've bought a new one but what all do I need to do? So far I'm thinking just take the old one off slop the new one full of cv grease and put it on. Anything else or is that completely wrong? I did some actual research and it ends up their just dust covers, now I'm wondering that because I'll have to disconnect the tie rod if I will have to get an alignment.
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Feb 27, 2007 22:49
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I'm going to inherit a 2003 Volvo S60 2.4T with about 30,000 miles on it pretty soon. It's a nice car, and much more fun to drive than my current car (a 1995 850). However, I'm young and don't have a family and I'm considering getting something sportier and faster. Would it be stupid to try to sell this and buy an older (2000ish) M3 or M5? I'm not sure how accurate ebay prices are, but the S60 bluebooks for about $19,000 and it looks like shopping around can find certain E39 M5s or E46M3s for $25k. I wouldn't want to pay much more than $5,000 more for another car. Is this a stupid pipe dream? Is ebay stupid about pricing? Is it not worth it to sell the volvo which is in fantastic condition?
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Feb 27, 2007 23:02
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This is probably as stupid as it gets.  So, I made a sort of impulse purchase on a car. 2004 Audi TT Roadster (convertible). The funny thing is, I don't know all that much about it and I loved it so much when I drove it that I didn't ask as many questions as I should have. Apparently it's a 3.2L engine and I opened the hood and it says Turbo on it. What I really want to know is... a) Is this considered a good sports car? b) What is the difference between the different sizes of engines? (e.g. 2.0L vs 3.2) c) What would the horsepower be? I can't seem to find it anywhere on the spec sheet or on the car itself Thanks 
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Feb 28, 2007 03:04
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My question: I have a 2002 Saturn SC2, with the half-door on the driver side. Road noise is terrible and loud, mostly from where the driver door and this door connect. Is there anything I can do to cut down on road noise in this area? CMYK_iNK posted:2004 Audi TT Roadster (convertible). Apparently it's a 3.2L engine and I opened the hood and it says Turbo on it. a) That's for you to decide, what other people think doesn't really matter. I'd say it is. b) Not sure what you mean here, larger has more power, obviously. c) From what I found: Engine Size 3.2 liters / 195 cu. in. Horsepower 250 @ 6300 rpm Torque (lb-ft) 236 @ 2800-3200 rpm Deserted fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Feb 28, 2007 |
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Feb 28, 2007 04:02
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LloydDobler posted:Unfortunately if the sensor isn't bad then you've been running your engine with low oil pressure (momentarily) and that could mean engine damage. No way to really tell until the bearings start knocking. Edit: it's running better but also hotter, wtf? bizwank fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Feb 28, 2007 |
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Feb 28, 2007 04:15
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CMYK_iNK posted:Apparently it's a 3.2L engine and I opened the hood and it says Turbo on it. quote:a) Is this considered a good sports car? quote:b) What is the difference between the different sizes of engines? (e.g. 2.0L vs 3.2) If you have Quattro, then you have the higher output 1.8T which rates at 225HP. If you had the 3.2L (but you probably don't since you said it says "Turbo" on the engine), you'd have 250HP. The best engine choice is probably the 225HP 1.8T because it's significantly lighter than the V6, and not that far behind in power.
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Feb 28, 2007 06:17
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Thanks for your help, Deserter and Alowishus -- really informative I'll go check it out.
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Feb 28, 2007 16:32
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Stupid question: I am getting a whooshing, almost whine when my engine speed increases. I want to say that it isn't normal revs, but I'm not as opbservant as most of you guys. I really haven't been able to isloate it. It's a '93 pathfinder, 5 speed manual. It's more prominent in lower gears and seems to disappear above a certain rpm. So, a noise that increases with engine speed, what could it be?
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Feb 28, 2007 17:44
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Im driving an 82 Toyota land cruiser (fj40) and I just had the hydraulic clutch system go out on me it seems. Basically one day the clutch felt really loose until eventually it would not even go into gear when the car was on. I put some brake fluid into the little clutch brake fluid container thing and the clutch got better, but it seems to have some kind of leak because 2 or 3 miles later I can barely get into gear again. I couldn't get a good look at the thing yet (happened at night and now im at work) but I believe its one of these... http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/clutmascylfj.html So my questions are: 1) Is this the only component that could be leaking or broken or are there hoses and fittings that I should check on first. 2) Is this something I could buy and replace myself? Very little car knowledge and just a standard ratchet set for tools. 3) It seems they make original Toyota replacements and after market replacements for the same model, what difference can I expect with using an after market part?
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Feb 28, 2007 17:46
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fooquestionmark posted:I did some actual research and it ends up their just dust covers, now I'm wondering that because I'll have to disconnect the tie rod if I will have to get an alignment. If you very carefully mark the location of the jam nut on the tie rod end, you can reassemble it and not need an alignment. An easy trick for doing that is before taking anything apart, mark one of the hex flats of the jam nut with a file, and file a small flat on the threads, flush with the nut and aligned with the marked flat. By marking the rotational position of the nut as well as the thread it was on, you'll know exactly where it was. If you can't see the file mark, you're one thread too far. If there's an unfiled thread between your nut and the mark, you have one thread to go. The only way your alignment will be off is if you tighten it significantly tighter or looser than how it was before you disassembled it. And don't go crazy with the file, but definitely mark it well enough to be seen clearly during reassembly.
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Mar 1, 2007 00:17
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The Rising Suun posted:Stupid question: I am getting a whooshing, almost whine when my engine speed increases. I want to say that it isn't normal revs, but I'm not as opbservant as most of you guys. I really haven't been able to isloate it. It's a '93 pathfinder, 5 speed manual. It's more prominent in lower gears and seems to disappear above a certain rpm. Could be power steering pump, check fluid level. It could be the alternator wearing out. It could be the water pump wearing out, A/C pulley wearing out, or it could be a belt wearing out. Check for loose intake hoses and such as well. Comedy option: You have a surprise turbo.
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Mar 1, 2007 00:22
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Where do you guys go to get replacement metric nuts and bolts? I have this problem where I drop bolts into the engine bay and never find them again.High Altitude Hair Stylist posted:gently caress, how much do rotors usually run? I think I waited too long to get the break pads replaced If you do the work yourself, ~$60-80 for rotors and pads and 3 hours of wrenching. Make sure to get a breaker bar and a can of Liquid Wrench, it gets pretty rusty down there. AfricanBootyShine fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Mar 1, 2007 |
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Mar 1, 2007 01:48
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 Anyone recognize what kind of block that is?
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Mar 1, 2007 02:40
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LloydDobler posted:Could be power steering pump, check fluid level. It could be the alternator wearing out. It could be the water pump wearing out, A/C pulley wearing out, or it could be a belt wearing out. Yeah, I looked around and asked some people, belt seems to be the likely culprit. Thank you!
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Mar 1, 2007 03:28
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BlackMK4 posted:Anyone recognize what kind of block that is? It looks like it is out of a tractor.
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Mar 1, 2007 03:37
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Atticus_1354 posted:It looks like it is out of a tractor.  That'd make sense I'm assuming something domestic... google is failing me 
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Mar 1, 2007 04:55
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Yeah, unless someone else can say otherwise I am pretty sure it is from a tractor. Where did you get those pictures?
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Mar 1, 2007 05:51
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Atticus_1354 posted:Yeah, unless someone else can say otherwise I am pretty sure it is from a tractor. Where did you get those pictures? Out offroading today. I think I might go grab it tommorrow - probably worth a little bit at a scrap yard... maybe 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Mar 1, 2007 |
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Mar 1, 2007 06:05
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How do I get this salvage yard marking off this car without scratching the paint or mirror?  Also, is there an easy way to get that stupid pinstripe off without spending three hours picking at it? It's only on the driver door.
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Mar 1, 2007 06:26
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Deserted posted:How do I get this salvage yard marking off this car without scratching the paint or mirror? As for the pinstripe, they make a "decal eraser" device that works with air tools or maybe Dremel-style rotary tools. It spins fast enough to shred vinyl but won't hurt paint. I'm not sure if I'd buy one to use it once, but if there's a small bodyshop around they might be persuaded to apply theirs for a small fee.
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Mar 1, 2007 06:50
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BlackMK4 posted:
Edit: Nope, I think Rocket_350 called it right! \/\/\/ 
Mr. Tea fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Mar 1, 2007 |
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Mar 1, 2007 07:17
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BlackMK4 posted:
I'm going to say Chrysler flathead six, this photo is a good match though not exact, maybe something from the same engine family (this is a 40's Dodge Powerwagon engine).  It could still be a tractor engine, some Massey Harris tractors used Chrysler Sixes. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/flat.html Fornax Disaster fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Mar 1, 2007 |
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Mar 1, 2007 08:08
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Pitch posted:If that doesn't work use lighter fluid or another solvent on the mirror, you can't hurt it. The painted part will be difficult to clean further without harming the finish. Good to know about lighter fluid. As to the decal eraser, I think I'll just bring out the iPod and pick away, or hire some neighborhood kid. No way am I paying any money for cosmetic stuff on my sister's beater Saturn.
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Mar 1, 2007 08:09
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I'm about to sell my E34 535i/5. I love the car, but I'm in a place where I don't need as much practicality and I bought a new car (thread forthcoming). What I'm wondering is what's the best way to make the money transaction when I find a buyer? When I bought the car, the seller just wanted a personal check. I guess he trusted me enough, but that seems unusual. For the price of the car, having the buyer pay in cash seems excessive ($5000-6000, at least) I think. I've never actually sold a car private party, so I'm just not quite sure what is the best way to deal with safely securing the funds. Suggestions?
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Mar 1, 2007 08:31
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I'm looking for this type of connector that's connected to the wire in this picture: Anyone know what that kind of clip is called and/or where I can get some online? No where in town knows what they're called or even carries them, and the project I need them for HAS to have those kind of connectors to work properly.
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Mar 1, 2007 23:17
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Guinness posted:I'm about to sell my E34 535i/5. I love the car, but I'm in a place where I don't need as much practicality and I bought a new car (thread forthcoming). What I'm wondering is what's the best way to make the money transaction when I find a buyer? When I bought the car, the seller just wanted a personal check. I guess he trusted me enough, but that seems unusual. For the price of the car, having the buyer pay in cash seems excessive ($5000-6000, at least) I think. I've never actually sold a car private party, so I'm just not quite sure what is the best way to deal with safely securing the funds. Suggestions? I think the safest way I've been hearing people on here describe (sorry, never done it myself) is to have the buyer bring a cashier's check. Then, you both go to your bank and you verify/deposit the check. Once it all goes through, you hand over the title.
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Mar 1, 2007 23:24
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Devyl posted:I'm looking for this type of connector that's connected to the wire in this picture: Is it one of the ones on this page? http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=0901
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Mar 1, 2007 23:29
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Devyl posted:I'm looking for this type of connector that's connected to the wire in this picture: Looks like a VAG wiring clip, the tangs on the outside hold the connector in the plastic housings, and they're a bitch to get out without the special (and $$$) tool. You can find them at http://ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pagebuild_v2.cgi?make=Volkswagen&engine=1.8T&model=Jetta%20IV&submodel=&category=General%20Purpose&subcategory=Electrical Keep in mind -- there are several different sizes of these connectors, from large ones for the headlights to some very tiny ones under the dash. Make sure you get the right one for your application. Edit: Link goes to poo poo, but you can find it at https://www.ecstuning.com and going to the General / Electrical connection on most cars listed.
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Mar 1, 2007 23:43
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Deserted posted:How do I get this salvage yard marking off this car without scratching the paint or mirror? As for the mirror, water and a razor blade will take it right off. The water just keeps the razor blade from scratching the glass. You might have to use rubbing compound on the paint. They sell pinstripe erasers at auto body and paint supply stores. They're not as easy to find at regular auto parts stores but sometimes you get lucky. There will be a supply store somewhere near you. I got one for $16. They had one at my local NAPA but it was like $35 for the exact same thing. You have to have a fairly fast drill or they won't work. It won't work in a cordless drill, it's gotta be up around 3000 RPM. It'll say on the eraser or the package what RPM it needs.
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Mar 2, 2007 01:06
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I was never 100% sure what 2+2 meant in cars like the Z cars.
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Mar 2, 2007 01:51
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Crix_Maydine posted:I was never 100% sure what 2+2 meant in cars like the Z cars. Seats 2 in the front, 2 in the back.
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Mar 2, 2007 02:19
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Why do so many of the 80's Broncos I see for sale have a small oil leak?
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Mar 2, 2007 02:32
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Crazed_Capybara_Rider posted:Seats 2 in the front, 2 in the back. Yeah, but the backs seats are generally like the extra arms on conjoined twins. They're shriveled and useless.
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Mar 2, 2007 03:33
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I just bought a 94 Celica ST, and it passed emissions for sale, but barely. The CO reading was right at the limit at idle, but not at load. What would cause CO emissions to be higher at idle? The reading at load is way below tolerance, and everything else was decent.
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Mar 2, 2007 06:22
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