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My 1992 Chevy S-10 2WD extended cab 4.3 liter V6 pickup truck needs new tires. I bought it used 8 or 10 years ago or so. The last time I had the tires replaced (a long long time ago) I just went to Costco and had them put on "new ones of whatever's on there". Now I'm paying more attention and I'm a bit baffled. The truck says (on the sticker inside the driver door) that it takes P205/75 R14 tires. However, what's on there are Dunlop P225/60 R14 tires. Now, I gather that there is some wiggle-room with tires, e.g. that while the size of the hole in the tire (14 inches) has to be the same, you can go with modestly wider or narrower tires, and fatter or thinner, and it'll work. But what are the side-effects of doing this? Also, I've always felt that the truck's odometer and speedometer were off a bit, maybe 2 or 3% lower. Years ago when we crossed the border into Oregon, I took note of the mile markers which were helpfully posted beginning at 0 and marked every mile, and when we had gone 100 miles (according to the markers) the trip-meter had incremented by about 95 miles. I felt that was too far off to be accounted-for in inaccuracy in the posted mile-markers, added distance from taking a wider path around a turn, etc. So, my theory is, the previous owner fit the 225/60s onto these wheels, they affect the mileage (due to being a slightly different outside radius), and I'd be perfectly fine (and save $20/tire) going back to 205/75s. But I know nothing about this poo poo, so, I'm interested in what other affects (handling, performance, mileage, tire longevity, maximum load, etc.) come along for the ride when I change the tire specs. Please advise me, automotive geniuses.
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Jul 27, 2008 23:50
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Uthor posted:A wider tire will let you put more power to the ground, but (I believe) it negatively affects handling. Thanks! So, instead of 220,000 miles on the truck, it probably has more like 210,000. Welp. I guess that's not such a big deal at this point. Will going back to stock tires affect fuel economy?
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Jul 28, 2008 03:30
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That makes sense. Thanks.
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Jul 28, 2008 06:15
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brae posted:What's the best way to clean the interior of a windshield? I've tried Rain-X and Windex, but there seems to be a film inside that I'm just smearing around. The basic Rain-X product is not glass cleaner - it's a glass coating/treatment for the exterior windshield designed to let water roll off easier. If you put it on the inside of the glass, you may have to put a lot of effort into getting it off. They do have a glass cleaner product which is good for interior glass as well. You probably knew this, but I thought I'd mention it in case you made a mistake with the bottles and accidentally coated your interior glass with an exterior treatment. Vinegar and water with newspaper is amazingly effective. It does not seem to leave ink on the window, although you will get some on your hands from handling the newspaper. I'd be careful about dripping vinegar on your dash, though - it is an acid, I have no idea what it'd do to various materials. Dilute it first, spray some on the newspaper, then use that to wipe the window, rather than spraying it all over the window (and dash).
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Aug 25, 2008 08:27
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Well, since nobody answered, I'll just have to cross our fingers and hope that it can handle 2 days at Thunderhill. Hey cool, my stepdad is thinking of doing the $500 car enduro thing this winter at Thunderhill as well. If the car is leaking oil on the ground they're not gonna let it on the track. If it's just burning oil, well, who cares: you can always pour in more oil during your pitstops, right? edit: other people said that already. Are any other goons thinking of doing the LeMons Thunder Hill thing? It'd make for a fun Goon Meet. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Sep 19, 2008 |
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Sep 19, 2008 21:48
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pr0zac posted:I might need to buy a new catalytic converter for my Jeep in order to get it to pass smog here in CA. This may be unhelpful, but: catalytic converters are among the most-stolen car parts in California, because they contain precious metals (platinum) and are thus high-value parts, plus on many cars they are relatively easy to steal. At my work (a big software company) there's been a rash of cat thefts from our parking garages/lots. During broad daylight, in an office park environment with security people driving around. Last month we even had a guard spot some thieves, call the cops, and then the thieves sped off and led the police in a high-speed chase down the freeway! Dramatic! The e-mail announcement warning employees said that they go after Rav4s in particular, because they're easiest to get to. I imagine a Jeep is similar, in that there's tons of clearance under the car body for someone to slide under there and go to town. My point being, please don't buy a used catalytic converter from anyone other than a very reputable vendor, unless you feel OK about supporting criminals. Odds are very good that it is stolen, otherwise. Anyway, I found this website which purports to link to cats for California autos. Good luck!
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Sep 24, 2008 20:57
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I'm a newb idiot, so this might be a stupid follow-up, but: a larger tire contact patch, assumign the same 'grippiness' (coefficient of friction), means there are more square inches of road/rubber contact and therefore the tire is more resistant to letting go of the road. However, there is also less pressure per square inch, because the car still weighs the same and that load is being spread out more. Don't these two things cancel each other out? Because the pressure of the weight of the car forcing the tire against the road is part of what increases the friction between the two? As a secondary question, assuming I've missed something and there really is more grip: I understood that on cornering, since the outside wheels must travel farther than the inside wheels, there is a certain amount of 'sliding' the wheels have to do to compensate... which is fixed by having a differential. But that there are more mechanics involved, so you need torsion bars and sway bars and poo poo like that. And when you turn the wheels while you're at a dead stop, such as if you've curbed your wheels on a slope when you parked and now you're un-curbing them, you 'scrub the tires' against the road, by forcing them to turn, and your steering system has to provide that force. So, if I'm understanding the two of these things correctly, wouldn't changing the width of tires (increasing contact patch) potentially add to the forces that feed back into these systems, especially on a car that has the less-advanced designs (non-slipping differential, etc.)? All that being said, I'd think you'd at least want to know what car mr. belowaverage is talking about, before you could say for certain that his mechanics are idiots. But I'm a stupid newb, so I expect instead someone can explain where I'm making my mistake and I'll learn something new, instead.
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Oct 3, 2008 22:31
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Also, be prepared for your rental agency to have a totally different car for you than you reserved. My boss travels to the US frequently, and has been doing so for years: she almost never gets the class of car she requests (smaller cars); the attitude is that you'll be very happy with an 'upgrade' (to an SUV) so it'll be just fine. Read the fine print on your rental agreement, if you're counting on a specific vehicle to be there for you; you might get a fun surprise on arrival.
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Oct 10, 2008 19:32
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Emasculatrix posted:Is there a good guide for basic car maintenance? My car is finally out of the shop, with a spiffy new engine (and motor oil this time!), and I'd like to avoid other stupid mistakes in the future. I mean, this never would have happened in the first place had I known what to do. Have you ever listened to Car Talk? It's on NPR. Anyway their web site is a pretty good place to go for getting basic car info. here is their page on auto maintenance; click through each of the things in 'maintenance advice from click and clack'. This is a pretty good comprehensive list of the things to pay attention to to keep your car in good condition: * Air Filters * Brakes * Coolant * Drive Axle Boots * Drive Belts * Oil Changes * Power-Steering Fluid * Rotating Tires * Spark Plugs * Timing Belts * Tire Pressure * Transmission Fluid From this list, the only one I'm not so sure is really a 'do it yourself' thing is the drive axle boots. Everything else is something you should have on a regular inspection/maintenance schedule. If you have the car owner's guide for your car, it usually has a recommended maintenance schedule, listing regular mileage intervals and which things should be checked/changed at each interval. You should use that in combination with the above to know each time you hit a given mileage marker on your odometer, what things it's time to pay attention to.
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Oct 19, 2008 20:25
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deviant. posted:Does. Not. Compute. Hmm, he said Volvo 240. Maybe a diesel model? 3000rpm is mid-high on a diesel engine, right?
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Oct 19, 2008 20:34
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Maybe go to an auto parts store and show the guy what's broken. Ask for a new one. Seriously, your car is only 7 years old. This is a minor problem. Fix it properly, and the fix will last for many more years. Do it half-assed and it'll just be a problem again in a few months.
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Oct 21, 2008 08:04
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jeemo posted:I drive a 1998 Toyota Camry LE. If you call for a tow, the tow guy is gonna get in, and with a deft flick of his wrist he'll unlock the steering lock. Then he's gonna get out, look at you like you're an idiot, and charge you money. Then when he gets back on the radio for his next call, he'll tell the dispatcher that you're an idiot who can't undo his own steering lock. If you're a self-secure individual who doesn't care about the opinions of tow-truck drivers and dispatchers, go for it. Otherwise, yeah. You gotta shove the wheel over while you are turning the key. If the wheels are planted into the curb, you'll need to use brute force to compress the tire enough to get the wheel to turn. I usually do it while applying light clockwise pressure on the ignition key. If it absolutely will not go, then I dunno. Someone else can tell you how much disassembly is required to defeat the steering lock.
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Oct 24, 2008 00:34
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The upholstery, maybe? E.g., one black refers to the interior trim, and the other to the seats?
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Nov 3, 2008 21:47
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deviant. posted:I'm hoping you're right. $120 would be swingable. Unpleasant, but swingable. Check out This thread. For their 06 Toyota, some sap was quoted upwards of $600 for a new set of keys from the dealer. However, some folks in the thread suggested that ordinary locksmiths can actually make those super-duper electronic keys, for a lot less than the dealer, so maybe look into that if the dealer quote is outrageous. Also, didn't the car come with two keys? What happened to the other one?
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Nov 14, 2008 08:56
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You wouldn't drive a $2,500 car without insurance, would you? Your buddy should have gotten insurance on that wedding ring. (Or spent a lot less on it. My wife and I got our set custom-made for $480, and that was this February with gold at really high prices.) Not that that helps with the sentimental loss. But at least it'd cover the financial hit.
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Nov 14, 2008 22:02
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Bizarro Kanyon posted:I have a question and I could not find the answer. It does sound like you've triggered an anti-theft lockout. It might be helpful to mention the make, model, and year of your car, and maybe look into what anti-theft lockout system came on it. Do you have the car's manual? Take a look in there. Call a dealer that sells that make and they can probably tell you what you have to do to unlock the anti-theft system.
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Nov 24, 2008 00:53
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masterfly posted:I've caught my eye on an 89 prelude SI. Hondas last a long-rear end time, it's true... but it is still a 20 year old car you are looking at. Have you considered looking at something from at least the late 90s? For five grand you should be able to find a decent car that is not quite so ancient.
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Nov 27, 2008 21:42
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Insurance rates vary wildly depending on location. In 1993, at the age of 18, the best I could do on a 79 VW Rabbit in San Francisco for basic liability was $2500/year - and that was on the state mandated program that put a cap on insurance rates. If you are young and male, and you live in an urban area, your rates can be double or triple what someone out in the boondocks is paying. Additionally, the car matters. The more engine and weight, the higher the basic liability will be (because you are more likely to seriously injure someone in an accident). Newness and expensiveness increases loss/theft insurance. Sportiness (2 doors, fast engine, turbo, etc.) increases both, if you are young, because on average young people drive sporty cars more dangerously than non-sporty cars. All told, the only way you are going to know if $4000/year is reasonable or not, is to get numerous quotes from many different insurers.
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Nov 29, 2008 04:08
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When we took the dead AC out of my 92 Chevy S-10, they put in a little replacement pulley on the serpentine belt. It meant no need to go get a different belt or rearrange things, and if I ever decide to shell out the cash and get a refurbished or new AC to put in, it goes right back in. The replacement pulley is just a bracket with a free-spinning wheel on it. It was pretty cheap.
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Dec 3, 2008 20:30
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My stepdad has a black '93 SHO with 185,000 miles on it (california state purchase, if that matters). The trunk won't stay closed, it's got a bad case of sunburn, and he has a much nicer newer G35 for his drive now, so basically the SHO is sitting out on the curb rotting. He's highly mechanically inclined (a pipefitter by trade, and a motorcycle road racer in the AFM, and has built/rebuilt many, many bikes and cars and etc.) but basically is done with this car and doesn't care to do any more work on it. He says it needs a tuneup but is otherwise mechanically sound. What is it 'worth'? I know there are SHO enthusiasts out there. My stepdad seems to think it's not really worth much. For a while he was going to use it with some co-workers as a 24 Hours of LeMons car but they flaked out on him (one guy's wife wouldn't let him, haw), which tells you how little he thinks it's really worth. I realize everyone has no money right now, so this isn't really a 'what's it worth this month' question (which is why I'm not just checking going prices on other SHOs to get my answer) - more of a 'if he sold it sometime in the next two years, and had plenty of patience to wait for a buyer who really wanted it, what could he likely get for it' kind of thing.
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Dec 13, 2008 01:06
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hippynerd posted:You might be able to use green, but i've been told that you cant use that, because it may confuse drivers. Red/green colorblindness is the most common type of colorblindness; and, it's the reason why intersection signal lights always have the same orientation of lights (with red at the bottom); so the colorblind can still tell whether it's 'stop' or 'go'. Polynomial posted:These are important because people making left turns from the opposite lane are one of the primary causes of motorcycle accidents, and probably car accidents as well. Which is why they can't be red (laws aside, of course). So, how about resolve it with a sensor and signal in the intersection itself, that indicates when a car in the left-turn lane opposite starts to move/crosses the line? In an intersection with a protected left, that'd be unnecessary (because you're looking at a red while they have a green arrow), but in unprotected intersections it'd be pretty spiffy to have a little signal of some kind light up whenever someone is cutting across the flow of traffic.
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Jan 18, 2009 21:13
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mr.belowaverage posted:You don't say.. Hah, yeah, red is always at the top. Not the bottom. I initially typed 'green is always at the bottom' and then changed it to red because sometimes green isn't at the bottom when there's an arrow signal or something, but didn't change the word from bottom to top, etc. Ugh. That sideways one is weird though. Is that in the US? Each state has its own traffic signal laws, but they are generally consistent. buildmyrigdotcom posted:You'd have to be really god drat colorblind to not be able to tell traffic lights apart. That severity of colorblindness is really rare and it's pretty easy to tell when it's green (people around you are going, or honking). I don't think the design of traffic lights has anything to do with it. You're talking out of your rear end. Yes, severity of indistinctness between red and green varies... but according to everything I'm reading and citing below, "most" r/g colorblind people have some degree of difficulty distinguishing red and green traffic signals. About 8% of males are red/green colorblind (for whatever reason it's far more common among males than females), and there are numerous studies - even going back to the 50s and 60s - that suggest r/g colorblind drivers are much more likely to make mistakes regarding reading signal lights, than non colorblind drivers. See, e.g., http://organizedwisdom.com/Color_Blindness_and_Traffic_Lights, http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/articlerender.fcgi?artid=1875309, and in particular http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1641229. Abstract posted:At least seven million drivers in North American cannot reliably identify red and green lights. The common assumption by traffic authorities that no serious problems exist is contradicted by the data on color vision, the testimonies of color defective drivers, studies under controlled conditions, and by reliable accident statistics. Color defective drivers can be provided with the same measure of traffic light safety as for normals. Brake lights on vehicles can be made equally effective for color defectives. Suggestions are provided to help those with color defective vision to compensate for their problems. The standard light tree orientation is probably the single most important of these conventions.
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Jan 21, 2009 00:20
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What if they just, like, made green lights square? Or maybe a triangle.
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Jan 21, 2009 02:08
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just keep scrolling posted:I need somewhere to store a car locally while I completely overhaul its suspension and other stuff. I was thinking about renting a big storage unit, storing it there on jackstands, and doing all my work there inside the unit. Even if they would let me do this, is it even a good idea or is there some problem with this that I haven't thought of? Power (and water). Most storage units lack electrical outlets - you can sometimes find one outside the unit somewhere, but they try to discourage people from doing things like living in their units (or doing work and spilling poo poo everywhere and so on).
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Jan 21, 2009 04:13
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HFX posted:I'm wondering why a coolant flush would fix an overheating problem unless it was just low to being with. I would need to get some mileage numbers to give you a better idea of what needs to be done. Gunk and buildup on the metal surfaces of the inside of the radiator, and the engine, reduce the efficiency of heat-transfer between them and the coolant. Flushing the system removes gunk and restores this efficiency. A minor overheating problem could easily be due to this. My old 79 rabbit ran like 20 degrees (F) cooler after I flushed it. It probably hadn't been flushed in 15 years (this was in the mid-90s). ..although it does seem like a 4-year-old car shouldn't have all that much buildup.
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Jan 29, 2009 23:57
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TheYellowFog posted:We sat in the car with it running for about 5-10 minutes before he got in, and he was still on the phone the whole test drive around the block twice. No, that's just poo poo customer service. It's understandable if they're super-busy on a given day or something, but it sounds like they offered no apology or explanation - they just acted like your business didn't matter to them at all. No matter who he is talking to, he can say "excuse me for a moment" to his caller and then at least apologize to you, and tell you how long he thinks it'll be before he can help you directly... or direct you to another person who can help you. I'd say, leave and never go back. There is always another dealer you can find, and maybe they'll act like they want your business.
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Feb 5, 2009 02:42
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Parkit posted:Here's something y'all might be able to help me with: I've got a 2003 Honda Civic that seems to have suddenly dropped in fuel economy. Has it been really cold lately? Cold starts/cold driving kills fuel economy. Just a thought.
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Feb 18, 2009 19:43
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Dolphin posted:What could "BALANCE OF FACTORY WARRANTY" mean? Could a car with a damaged rear still be eligible for factory warranty? Of course. The warranty covers defects of manufacture. Anything broken by the damage obviously isn't covered, but the rest of the car sure is... and, if you have the dealer or a dealer-authorized shop fix the damage, the replacement parts and work should come with a warranty as well. All that said, it does seem to be awfully cheap. I'd suspect either additional damage, or its a scam of some kind.
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Feb 25, 2009 07:57
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Comradephate posted:Anyway. What are my options? I'll double check tomorrow, but I believe when I press any of the 4 disk buttons, it acts like it's going to change to that disk, but it never does, and just goes back to the radio after a few moments. You could probably disassemble the changer enough to physically remove the disks? I'm not that familiar with in-car changers, but many CD players (most?) have a 'manual eject' feature; a hole you poke a bent paperclip or something into, which forces the eject mechanism to operate even without power. Of course this doesn't get it working again, but at least you get your CDs out.
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Mar 9, 2009 20:52
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Hillridge posted:I just called up a local Chevy dealer and the service guy said 4.5 to 5 quarts. Haynes says 3.5. The dipstick is unreliable at best. Does anyone know exactly what it takes? how much play do I have before I kill the engine from too little, or blow out a seal from too much? I happen to have the same truck as you (except I have the 4.3l V6). My Chiltons has a 'Capacities' chart at the end of section 1 which lists capacities for all models 1982-1993. It shows two possible engine oil capacities for the 1992 Chevy S-10. If you have the 2.5l engine, your capacity is 3.5 quarts of oil If you have the 2.8l or the 4.3l engine, your capacity is 4.5 quarts of oil Hope that's helfpful!
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Mar 18, 2009 22:26
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I don't think it's a good idea to shove something flammable between the heat shield and the hot thing it was shielding... just me, though.
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Mar 25, 2009 19:34
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/\/\/\Maybe you could take a picture? It sounds like something's not right, but who knows what without looking at it?
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Mar 29, 2009 05:54
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Shampoo posted:This was it's own thread because I missed the Stupid Question thread due to HAM overload: So, all those cars you see with black-and-yellows are (possibly) legal. Of course they do still have to pay the annual registration fees, and if they don't keep the stickers on the plate updated, I assume they can be pulled over. But in that case the worst they'll get is a fixit ticket, which will be dismissed when they show up at the courthouse with proof that the car's registration fee was paid. Edit: it is still possible to do this. See CA DMV "handbook of registration procedures", Ch. 14:, section 14.100. (This has a publication date of 2007, so I think it's up to date, but possibly not?) quote:14.100Year of Manufacture Model Year Date Plates (VC §5004.1) There are also rules for transfer of special plates from one vehicle to another, and for "Vehicles of Historic Value". Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 2, 2009 03:45
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azazello posted:I was driving too fast in my '96 Impreza wagon on a wet road, spun out and hit a tree with the front right corner of the car. Pics: There's damage to the frame. The frame buckled while it was absorbing energy from the impact. Even if you banged it back out, the integrity of the frame is compromised. That means the car isn't as safe to drive; in another impact, the frame would not absorb as much energy as it collapsed, meaning more of the impact energy will be transferred to the passengers. Depending on where you live, the car might not even be legal to drive (e.g., it wouldn't pass an inspection/certification process). Getting the frame fixed, combined with the costs of the other parts you need to replace, will cost more than the car is worth, even if you do it yourself. It sucks, but, I suggest selling the car as a non-operable parts car, and then saving for something you can drive safely. If you have to, buy a $500 beater or something. And, not that you want to hear it, but I personally feel anyone who is driving a car they cannot afford to replace in the event of a total loss, needs to have insurance that covers collision/loss. Some folks will argue the car was not worth enough to bother with paying for that insurance, but on cars with very low value, the additional cost of a comprehensive policy ought to be proportionally low as well. For example on my POS old 92 Chevy S-10, with two insured drivers, the additional coverage costs less than $300/year (through Amicia)... and I live in a high-cost ZIP code in California. Anyway, sorry about your accident man, and if you're feeling down, just remember you walked away unscathed from a substantial collision, and that's something to be happy about.
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Apr 3, 2009 20:41
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Allow me to be the counterargument. I have a 2WD Chevy S-10 with a 4.3L V6. I've driven through a snowstorm in the high sierras, I've driven on unpaved (uneven gravel) roads in the desert, and I've even worked my way out of mud. I think 4WD is a nice add-on for certain applications, but is rarely essential, especially if your main purpose is just to haul a lot of poo poo. If it's a trade-off of options, I'd rather have a better engine than 4wd. (4wd also adds a lot of weight, so your mileage is worse even while driving in 2wd mode, but for some folks that's not a big concern.) And, yes, putting some heavy stuff in the back can help keep traction on slippery surfaces when you only have a 2wd pickup. You still need chains (or snow tires) when driving in ice/snow but I've had no issues while using them. I'll also point out that all over the world, tens of millions of 2wd light pickups are used by guys in 3rd world countries on 3rd world country roads, in far worse driving conditions than you're ever likely to experience here in the States, and they'd probably find the notion that your typical American suburb petunia "needs" 4wd pretty hilarious. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Apr 10, 2009 |
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Apr 10, 2009 00:33
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KelvereseAysen posted:My question is, are there any other maintenance items I could do myself? This is kind of an open-ended question. With the right tools and instructions, you can do any of the work yourself. So, there's probably some line you want to draw where buying specialized tools/equipment, and/or the time/difficulty cost, is too high for you. Just as an example, tuning your engine is something that you can learn to do, if you have the equipment. So, I guess, get a hold of the maintenance schedule for your Ford (click Maintenance Schedule on the left) and you can see all the items the manufacturer recommends to be checked/replaced at each mileage interval. Then you can check your shop/repair manual to see what's involved in doing it. For example, if your truck is 4x4, manual transmission, and driven normally, Ford recommends changing the fuel filter every 30k miles. They also suggest a lube job every 15k miles. ("Inspect and lubricate all non-sealed steering linkage, ball joints, suspension joints, half and drive-shafts and u-joints"), as well as a "multi-point inspection" which is really just a nice way of saying, have an experienced mechanic go down a checklist of wear items and eyeball them. If you're inexperienced, this isn't a bad idea to have done regardless of what other maintenance you're doing yourself. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Apr 10, 2009 |
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Apr 10, 2009 19:33
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On my 1992 Chevy S-10 4.3L 2WD pickup truck, the Brake light on the dash dims, but does not go out, when the parking brake is released. Last night my wife freaked out about this (again) while she was driving and smelled a bad smell, so she pulled off the freeway and yanked the release handle right off the cable, so, I need to fix that obviously. In my shop manual, there's a ton of diagnostics flowcharts for how to diagnose brake light issues (because the light also acts as a warning for various system issues), but none of them have 'dims but doesn't go out' as one of the diagnostics. I was at the junkyard last weekend so I pulled a couple bulbs out of a matching dash, so I can replace a bulb if that's the issue... but I don't want to disassemble the entire dash if it's not. Any ideas? What would cause an idiot light to stay on, but not ON on, just kind of very dimly on?
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Apr 11, 2009 21:21
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Just rinse it off. The water will dilute any acid that remains, which is probably none unless it just happened. Obviously replace that belt, if it got acid on it, and check hoses as well, but the rest of the stuff is probably fine. Acid will greatly increase corrosion/rust, but once it's gone, it's gone. For general reference, though: yes, a baking soda solution is a good way to neutralize an acid spill, but you'll get a reaction when the two interact, which will produce heat. In most cases, I'd guess not enough to be a problem (and if you get acid on your skin, and you happen to have some solution around, it's an excellent idea) but with the acid that's in batteries, you're more likely to have large volumes of water around (a hose, say) than a whole bunch of alkaline solution. Just dilute dilute dilute and you'll quickly resolve the problem. One acid to be very careful with is the stuff used to etch glass, hydrofluoric acid. This stuff is nicknamed "bone-seeking acid" and is horribly dangerous. If you ever get any of that on you, while you are flushing it with water, call 911 (999 in the UK, etc.) immediately, even if the surface burn doesn't seem serious. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Apr 24, 2009 |
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Apr 24, 2009 19:33
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fatman1683 posted:This is one of those ideas that makes sense on paper but doesn't really accomplish what people think it does. This is very interesting. Since my 92 Chevy S-10 4.3l V6 broke the light-second barrier (neeerd), I've been running it with "high-mileage" oil, such as This stuff. The engine wasn't running badly or consuming oil, though... so, was I just falling for marketing fluff? It's not a huge expense for me, and I don't run the truck all that much these days (maybe a hundred miles a month). But based on what you're saying, I could be actively increasing the wear on the engine by running a high-mileage oil. BTW if it matters, I live in a temperate climate (Bay Area, CA), so no freezing winter cold-starts. The truck is at about 220,000 miles now, the engine runs beautifully, and it passed smog check this weekend with flying colors. The body is rusting to poo poo, the door is falling off, and cosmetically it looks pretty crap, but the engine is just great.
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Apr 29, 2009 19:53
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KozmoNaut posted:But then you'd need a radar detector detector detector! It will end when the police get ahold of quantum tunneling devices, that allow them to detect you speeding before you arrive. You'll be issued a ticket automatically, for being about to speed.
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Apr 30, 2009 18:49
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