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Anyone have a suggestion on who to use for windshield replacement? I had my Focus' windshield replaced last summer by Safelite and I wasn't too happy with the glass quality (it was wavy if you looked through it sideways) and now that I need to replace it again I'd like to do it right.
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Aug 30, 2010 04:07
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eddiewalker posted:Did you call them about the glass? I've had a few done, and have always gotten OE glass from Safelite with the same factory tint strips, premounted rearview mirror clips, etc. I just figured that's the way it came from them. Its a bit late now, I hit a deer last November and between the airbags deploying (passenger airbag on the dashboard) and the hood flying back its spider-webbed to poo poo.
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Aug 30, 2010 04:20
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ChairmanMeow posted:Thank You. Is it OK to put it off 2 weeks? If its the post-cat O2 sensor, yes...unless you have a vehicle/emissions inspection before then. The post-cat O2 sensor does nothing other than monitor the catalytic converter and confirm its doing its job. Its also an instant-fail for p. much any vehicle or emissions test.
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Sep 1, 2010 19:53
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Persh posted:Why would you do this versus getting a manual steering rack? Only reason I could think of is to retain the PS pump and the pump requires the PS fluid for lubrication. The only reason I could think of for doing that; accessory layout makes it difficult/impossible to route a shorter belt without the pump or a replacement idler in its place. Geoj fucked around with this message at 10:05 on Sep 9, 2010 |
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Sep 9, 2010 09:59
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Eat_at_Milliways posted:So, my car (2003 Focus) was leaking coolant. "Water Inlet Tube." I got one two months ago from Tousley Ford for $15 + S/H. They're available at chain parts stores for ~$20-25 but they probably won't have it in stock and will have to special order it. Geoj fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Sep 25, 2010 |
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Sep 25, 2010 06:51
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heeebrew posted:Went to go fill up my 1999 4-cyl Toyota Camry today and I pulled the gas latch and..... nothing happened! It seems random, I heard the latch mechanism working but it would not pop the door open. I had to pry it gently open with a key :/ What is most likely the problem? And more importantly, what is the fix? I'm somewhat car savvy, but I am pressed for time lately. Try shooting some WD-40 (or similar light penetrating lubricant) into the locking mechanism that the fuel door interfaces with, then move the mechanism with a screwdriver. Odds are its just frozen.
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Sep 28, 2010 05:19
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some texas redneck posted:A couple of days ago my car started vibrating at idle. Classic worn engine mount symptoms, right? The biggest concern is you're probably turning the half-shafts past whatever tolerance they have (IIRC you're generally not supposed to let them go past 30 degrees off center.) You could also do damage to the other mounts. I would probably park the car and not drive it unless its a complete emergency.
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Oct 18, 2010 20:37
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^ Sounds like the sensor that detects when the door is closed is on its way out and is sensing the door as being open. I'd start there.
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Oct 19, 2010 17:08
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zamin posted:...especially since the wiring that controls the dome light is probably a half-mile long throughout the car and wired into half the electrical systems. On this note, consider yourself lucky you have a car from before they started mass-implementation of passive anti-theft systems and/or central locking. My previous company car (2007 Chevy Malibu) had a bad sensor in the driver's door that would randomly detect the door being open when it was closed and locked (while parked.) At all hours of the night the car's "oh poo poo someone just opened the door while its locked" alarm would go off, sounding the horn and flashing the headlights until I could find the keys and spam the lock button. The fleet management company couldn't understand why it needed to be fixed because it didn't impair the car's ability to drive, so I ended up pulling the fuse that ran the horn.
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Oct 19, 2010 18:53
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^ Slotted =/= vented. A vented rotor means there is a gap in the middle through which air can travel to cool the rotor. Generally speaking, all front rotors are vented and depending on the size of the vehicle the rears may be vented or solid (assuming 4 wheel disc.)
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Oct 19, 2010 20:26
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electricsugar posted:I have the reciept for the timing belt replacement, should I return to the service shop to get this bolt replaced? Or is it more hastle than just going to an automotice shop and buying and new one? I have no idea exactly what this bolt is called or what size I would need. You could just remove one of the other bolts like it (if its holding the timing cover on there should be at least two of them) and take it to a hardware store, if you can't match the length get one slightly shorter. Places like Lowes usually have a thread gauge bolted to the wall in the hardware section.
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Oct 20, 2010 22:19
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In my experience once a car battery gets discharged past a certain point its p much toast, it'll hold a charge and start the car but its very easy to run down again. If you're not really concerned with possibly having to call AAA again for a jump, keep the current battery. If not, replace it.
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Oct 20, 2010 23:38
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Brigdh posted:If you don't have one, go to the dealership and to take a look (or just ask them where it is) Wow, the dealers must be really friendly where you are. Most of the ones around me would tell you to pay them $150 to do it for you or go get hosed.
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Oct 21, 2010 23:58
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Molten Llama posted:Which engine? This, a lot of manufacturers are putting "lifetime" filters inside the fuel tank now. I had to wait four hours to get my fleet car back from a Goodyear Gemini once because the routine maintenance schedule called for the filter to be replaced at whatever mileage interval and it took them that long to figure out the car had a "lifetime" filter.
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Oct 25, 2010 19:42
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MrOnBicycle posted:Due to annoying laws regarding weight on trailers I can't get it home that way (My car needs to weigh 40KG more Rent a u-haul (or equivalent) truck and a tow dolley? Rates are usually fairly reasonable if you pick up and drop off at the same location on the same day.
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Oct 27, 2010 18:17
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^ What kind of car? With that list I would run the gently caress away unless the current owner is giving it to you. The clutch alone is going to probably run you north of $1000 and the computer could easily cost just as much. If the body has been rusted through that's also going to be an expensive fix. OTOH, the parking brake could be as simple as turning the adjusters on the rear drums (assuming it has rear drums) or replacing the rear drums/shoes/rotors/pads.
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Oct 27, 2010 18:52
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Did your mechanic say why he believes the clutch needs to be replaced? Is it slipping? He may just be estimating that with just shy of 100k miles its on its way out and he's seeing $$$. There's really no way to know if a clutch needs to be replaced (if its not slipping) short of taking the transmission off the car and inspecting it. If you can test drive it again a good test of a clutch is to get rolling at about 25-30 MPH and upshift into 4/5th gear and lay on the throttle...if the engine bogs down you should be OK, if the revs fly up and the car doesn't go any faster you have problems. I'd still be concerned with the computer problems and the leak in the rear though... Geoj fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Oct 27, 2010 |
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Oct 27, 2010 19:12
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Shitty_Wok posted:Hello, I've got a 2005 Chevy Malibu LS. Was leaving the movie theater tonight, went to start my car, and at first it seemed like it was starting, then it just seemed to stall. Turned it over again, same thing. Gave it a second, tried again, and it started it up. I bought it used, have put less than 3k on it, it's got 80k miles, recently changed the oil and air filter. Any thoughts? My mom/grandfather hate Chevy, but I love the car, and don't feel like hearing "I told you so." Did you turn the key to "on" for a few seconds before going to start, or just put the key in the ignition and turn to start? Sounds like the fuel system may not have been fully pressurized the first time you tried to start, which could indicate a problem with the fuel pump or the filter needing to be replaced. OTOH I'm p sure that year of Malibu has an inside-the-tank "lifetime" fuel filter.
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Oct 28, 2010 06:24
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Shitty_Wok posted:I just put the key in and turned it to start. It's never been an issue before this, but I will definitely keep an eye on it. Thank you. You might try turning the key to the "on" position for 10-15 seconds and then start the engine. This will give the fuel pump ample time to fully pressurize before the engine tries to turn over.
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Oct 28, 2010 20:55
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^ You could get a can of MAF sensor cleaner and clean the MAF and unplug the vacuum line on the EGR to rule those two out. I would also look into the TPS being flaky, air filter in need of replacement, worn-out spark plugs/wires/coil pack or a problem with the PCV.
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Oct 29, 2010 04:34
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Persh posted:Sweet merciful christ...please tell me that you're the fifth owner of this car and the previous four were teenage girls who didn't know you actually have to change the oil... ExecuDork posted:I googled "car wrecker columbus ohio" and got many hits. I've never been to Columbus, but I'd be very surprised if there were fewer than a dozen junkyards nearby. I would be shocked if there's only a dozen junkyards in the greater Columbus area. Its the second or third largest city in Ohio (I'm from Akron,) there should be dozens within an hour's drive from the city center. I would say a bodyshop quoting $2200 to reskin the door is probably a case of them not wanting to do it and they're trying to send him a subtle message that its not worth it, but if he wants to press the issue they're going to take him to the cleaners. Asstro Van, I don't suppose you have comprehensive on the van? Odds are the insurance company would just total it out, but at least then you could buy a high-mileage econobox that's in working order... Geoj fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Nov 3, 2010 |
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Nov 3, 2010 03:23
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Sadi posted:We put a fuel filter inline with the fuel rail. It hasn't helped. So wait...did you replace the fuel filter or add a new one? If you seafoamed the gas tank and didn't replace the OE filter that's probably where the problem is. Geoj fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Nov 7, 2010 |
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Nov 7, 2010 19:37
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Sadi posted:Yeah, added a filter further up the line. The only factory fuel filter to my knowledge is in the fuel tank on this car. Regardless if it is in the tank it will more than likely need to be replaced...all of the crap the seafoam knocked loose is going to get stuck in it. Geoj fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Nov 7, 2010 |
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Nov 7, 2010 20:56
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RockShowLevel27 posted:I drive a 94 Nissan Maxima, recently there has been a strong smell of gas on startup, the car begins to shake when idled, and isn't accelerating as it should. How can I fix this on the cheap? Sounds like a possible misfire on one or more cylinder. Does it sound like its running rough/different exhaust tone than what you're used to? Spark plugs are cheap and plug wires are a bit more expensive. I'd start there.
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Nov 8, 2010 21:54
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Anyone familiar with DSMs? I have a 1991 Eclipse GS-T. I'm trying to locate the input for the transmission fluid (manual transmission, uses Pennzoil SyncroMesh). I can't find any dipstick or container of any kind, just a bolt on top of where the transmission drain bolt was. Can't say for sure on your specific car, but normally manual transmissions have a filler/checker hole and a drain hole (no dipstick.) You can technically fill through the drain hole if you can jack the car up to tilt the gearbox away from the drain hole enough that the fluid doesn't come back out while you're filling, but you'd need to know the specific capacity of the gearbox using this method (if you can identify the filler hole the normal procedure is to fill the fluid until the level reaches the bottom of the hole.) Dreadite posted:I've just had my second starter in six months die on my 2004 Nissan Xterra, with ~105k on the clock. The second one died after only 5k miles and 7 months. Did you put a new OEM starter on it, or a remanufactured unit from a chain parts store? Geoj fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Nov 15, 2010 |
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Nov 15, 2010 00:26
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Ripoff posted:
You might try contacting the state DMV and see if they could look up the registration information for that tag. Its a long shot, as odds are the information from the 70s was kept on paper but there's a chance they digitized old records before destroying them at some point.
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Nov 15, 2010 08:20
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Brigdh posted:The big thing is you don't have a torque wrench, so you are either going to over or under torque the lug nuts. Also, you will most likely not be able to torque them evenly which can cause things like rotor warping. *cut to technician at tire shop "torquing" the lug nuts by running his 500 ft-lb impact wrench until it stops* Not disagreeing that correct torque spec on lugnuts is important, but its not like the tire shop is going to bother with checking the spec for every car they get in and use a torque wrench on 16-20 lugnuts. I would suggest he take $20 of the $30-40 a tire shop will charge to change his wheels and buy a cheap Harbor Freight torque wrench and do it himself. e: Also the scissor jack that came with the car is perfectly acceptable when it comes to changing wheels. Maybe not the optimal solution, but as long as you're not going under the car there's no reason why it can't be used for what he wants to do. Geoj fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Nov 18, 2010 |
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Nov 18, 2010 18:21
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^ If your oil smells like gas I'd guess piston rings. Compression test would show this p quickly...
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Nov 18, 2010 19:30
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Brigdh posted:Honestly, no idea. I just know that uneven torque can cause rotor warping. Maybe someone else can chime in? I don't think its going to be that big of a problem unless you have half of the lugnuts under-torqued and half of them over-torqued. As long as they're all in the same ballpark you should be fine.
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Nov 18, 2010 19:40
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^ Are you really attached to the chrome? Why not just spray it another color that would go well with the car's interior?
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Nov 21, 2010 01:25
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I just don't believe there is any way to effectively "re-chrome" a plastic piece if you don't have the equipment they used when they manufactured it. The only other alternative (short of re-painting it a different color) I could think of would be to buy a replacement part, but odds are you're not going to find any new parts for a 22 year old car and any used parts will more than likely be in the same condition the one you have is in.
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Nov 21, 2010 04:28
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^ Might also be worthwhile looking into the cost of a used transmission and having an independent mechanic installing it vs. paying through the nose for a new transmission and dealership service rates. Granted with the new transmission/dealer install you'll probably get a warranty to cover the transmission, but at the same time you can expect to have service managers fight you at every turn when it comes to getting them to honor that warranty when the car has 130,000+ miles on it. They'll say that any problems are being caused by the high-mileage car the transmission is attached to and not the transmission itself. Geoj fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Nov 22, 2010 |
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Nov 22, 2010 20:53
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^ Do you mean you can't shift from park to R/N/D (etc.) or you can shift out of park but it doesn't do anything once you get there?
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Nov 23, 2010 01:35
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Brigdh posted:On the topic of manual transmissions, is there any harm done by disengaging a gear and going into neutral without using the clutch? I don't think it puts any extra stress on the gearing itself but I'd have to imagine its hard on the shift mechanism since it has to pull the gears apart while they're under load.
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Nov 23, 2010 23:33
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SynMoo posted:Unfortunately, putting an HID retrofit kit into Fixed...
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Nov 24, 2010 06:46
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Eponine posted:If its the power steering belt, do I need to fix it? I can't comment on the specific car, but odds are it (like all modern cars) doesn't have an individual belt powering each specific accessory. Instead you have a single serpentine belt that winds around everything. A few possibilities come to mind; either the belt is worn out and is slipping until it gets warm, your tensioner is shot and is letting the belt slip or one of the accessories (power steering pump, alternator, etc.) is on its way out. Next time you start the car, open the hood and see if you can isolate where the noise is coming from.
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Nov 27, 2010 18:57
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Eponine posted:If I just replaced the serpentine belt, could I just do it on my own (with the help of a maintenance manual and my dad)? I work with a powertrain warranty group, so I hear daily about like catastrophic engine failures and transmissions that drop out of the car after 100 miles, so I'm just grateful that my car like works. Its something of a pain in the rear end on longitudinally-mounted engines because the belt is up against the fender, but yes, you should be able to do it with basic hand tools and a floor jack. You'll want to replace the tensioner and idler pulley(s) when you're in there. If the car has spent any appreciable time in a northern clime where the roads are salted on a regular basis you can p much expect the tensioner to be frozen and you'll need to break it or cut it (and the belt) off to remove it from the engine.
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Nov 27, 2010 20:54
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incredibull posted:Is there any way to get Geico to lower my rates besides threatening to cancel my policy? Or is there so little hope of this that I pretty much have to jump ship to another insurer at this point? Was there a police report filed? If not and you and the other party just dealt with it through insurance there's a slim chance you could jump ship to another insurer and hope they don't find out about it. Odds are they will though, there are contractors who comb through new applicants' prior driving records for stuff like this. TL;DR even if you change insurers you'll probably end up paying more.
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Dec 2, 2010 02:06
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^ Where was it done? Reputable shop or some shitstain auto service center (like at a Wal-Mart)? If their balancer is a POS or otherwise wrong it could be telling them the tire is balanced when it isn't. You might also ask them if they can road force balance it. I've had a few tires that vibrated around 45-60 MPH until I made the Goodyear Gemini I go to road force them...went away after that.
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Dec 6, 2010 00:25
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teh jhey posted:Oh. I just remembered. I bought the wheels for the winter from Craigslist. They looked pretty much fine, though. If they were warped in any real way, they wouldn't hold the bead, right? This changes things. The wheels could be warped and still hold a bead.
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Dec 6, 2010 04:24
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