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Slavvy posted:Can't comment on 'murican trucks and poo poo. Given all the crazy convoluted systems we had in the '90s that tried to replace the purely mechanical injection systems but were nowhere near as good as CR (HEUI I'm looking at you), yeah CR was a loving godsend here. It's a shame they're all crippled by EGR (especially now that we've got SCR to smash all the NOx molecules apart without having to force the engine to eat its own poo poo, but EGR is still around wtf) Not so much a stupid question as a question about something stupid: the 1G Kia Sportage (the 'real truck' ones with a full frame and a t-case) apparently has inner wheel seals inside its solid rear axle. I thought it was an incorrect catalog listing but the stealership confirmed it. So uh, why is it there? if it stops oil from getting to the wheel bearings how the gently caress are they lubricated? I can't see a grease-packed bearing living inside a housing where there's a half gallon of perfectly good 80/90 sitting mere inches away... and if not, what the gently caress purpose could it possibly serve? 
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Feb 1, 2014 04:28
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Slavvy posted:They are indeed grease packed bearings. As for why? Because kia are slowly getting less batshit crazy and the first gen sportage (protip: chassis designation AL) are a miserable vehicle which emerged during their "designed by psychopath" phase that should've been aborted at birth. There is nothing good about them, they are terrible in any metric you care to name. When one rolls into the workshop we quite literally play rock-paper-scissors to determine who gets to sully their hands with it. Never buy one. If someone asks you to fix theirs, never speak to that person again. Interesting that you feel that way. My opinion after owning a moderate-mileage example I bought for $600 (and doing a poo poo ton of work on it to get it legal, turn it into a trail rig and and fix a bit of PO stupidity) for a month is quite good. It was designed during the 'let's just buy everything from Mazda' phase- which granted was pretty much between the time they decided to start making cars in the '60s and the point where Hyundai bought 'em in '98 and started phasing their own platforms in, and I actually really like the late-'90s/early-'00s non-Hyundai-based stuff. I already own a '93 Ford Festiva (Kia built Mazda 121 knockoff sold as a Ford) and worked on a bunch of Rios and Sephia/Spectras and they're pretty similar to this thing design-wise. The only things I don't like so far are the fuel system (vapor separator in the goddamn wheel well with no protection wtf?) and this axle thing. Kia Canada "recalled" those lovely vacuum front hubs and replaced them with the early centrifugals, and I've already whipped those off and replaced them with Warn manual ones so that won't be an issue. To get what I wanted in this project I had it narrowed down to a choice between a 4Runner (which are extremely overpriced and rusty here), an S10 (gently caress GM), a Suzuki Sidekick or one of its GM rebadged versions (not expensive, but always rusty and hard to find) or the AL (Yes I knew the designation). To put it one way I've already got everything I need to make it legal/reliable and fix most of the wtf-were-they-thinking stuff, all the parts for a 4" lift, 32" tires on new rims and a bunch of recovery equipment and I'm still in it for much less than it would have cost to pick up a bone stock 2G 4Runner with a 22RE, quarter panels that haven't completely fallen off due to rust and less than 500K KM. And as well, if I decide to engine swap this thing (or wreck it beyond repair on the trail) I've now got a Mazda FE3N to throw into the Festiva (getting bored of my BP). But yeah, thanks for clearing that up for me. I didn't mean all that as a butthurt sperg rant, I can see these things being terrible if you're fixing one for money or daily driving one but there's a difference in that I'm fixing it for fun and its primary use will be dicking about in the woods.
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Feb 1, 2014 17:07
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Also the fact that Europe and Korea have figured out a way to make EGR improve fuel economy on a diesel is nothing short of incredible to me. We've seen a massive drop in fuel economy on heavy trucks since EGR was mandated and it recovered only slightly when SCR came out (DPFs don't really affect economy unless you're in a low engine load situation where you need to do active regen on a regular basis). But yeah, we 'Murricans aren't the best when it comes to designing emissions equipment.
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Feb 1, 2014 17:18
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If it's blown holes in the muffler, then I'd bet a good portion of the actual exhaust is exiting out of those holes rather than the tailpipe. Depending on the location of those holes there could be a venturi type action going on that would cause the tailpipe to suck air in rather than push exhaust out. But yeah if that engine has been drinking water that's not good. I'd throw a compression tester on it as well as a timing light. Or get a car that isn't terrible.
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Feb 8, 2014 18:31
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Soo I'm still really bad at head gasket/combustion leak diagnosis. The Kia has blown 2 new rads (both blew out near the cap where the tank meets the aluminum, first one I suspected shipping damage, but the second one had me going 'hmm') and that's without any actual driving, just in and out of the shop to work on it- though the blowouts both happened almost immediately upon the T-stat opening. Did the radiator bong hydrocarbon test and the results were less conclusive than I would have liked. I used engine vacuum to pull the bubbles if that makes a difference, was only getting a little 'bloop' of moderate sized bubbles every 20 seconds or so. The fluid did noticeably change color but not as dramatically as the picture on the bottle, said it should turn piss yellow and I ended up with something I would describe as teal. Should I just say gently caress it and pull the trigger on a top end gasket kit or _?
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Apr 16, 2014 02:08
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'01 AL Sportage, FE3N. Also worth mentioning that both of the rads I threw at it were Vista-Pro and the first one I took out was the original.
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Apr 16, 2014 02:26
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Yeah. It was fairly cold on those two days too, so I'm thinking that the combination of a minor combustion leak, the thermal shock of the stat opening and the questionable build quality of these vista-pros is what did it. Part of me wants to just go to the dealer and order an OE rad but I know either it will fail too or the heater core will be the next weakest link- and I'm sure you know what these are like to do a core on.
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Apr 16, 2014 04:19
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melon cat posted:I had somewhat similar damage from sliding into a curb (the joy of black ice). Tires have a steel belt beneath all of that rubber, and according to a mechanic I used to go to the tire was good to be used as long as that belt wasn't visible through the damaged part. The steel is under the tread section, and the body plies (which go from bead to bead) are polyester or nylon- unless it's a heavy truck tire in which case it's all steel. Looks like the curb protector did its job, there's a lot of rubber there. If I saw that at the tire shop I'd give the customer the option of flipping it on the wheel (make it pretty again) after making sure the injury didn't hit cords. But this one looks very shallow so I'm 90% sure you're fine. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Apr 19, 2014 |
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Apr 19, 2014 16:21
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'01 Kia Sportage, Mazda FE3N So I tore my bottom end down today (and wow was this thing is poo poo-kicked, crank end play was still in spec and that's about it), and when I was pulling the frost plugs I got a little hamfisty and didn't realize how little space I had underneath the plug, and I hit the outside of two of my cylinder walls with a center punch. The injuries aren't much deeper than the pitting left by the casting sand, don't have any pics on hand though. Did I just gently caress this hunk of iron? I know the best answer is 'ask the machinist since it's going there anyway' but I'd rather be told I'm an idiot on the internet than cut out of work early and make a 45 minute drive to be told I'm an idiot by the machinist.
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May 8, 2014 05:51
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Elmnt80 posted:
If you get super desperate, either take it to a commercial tire shop (assuming it moves) or give one a call and see if they can send a service truck down- it should be the same hex size (33mm-equivalent to 1 5/16") as semi-truck lugs and any good commercial tire truck has a 1" gun that hits hard. Bear in mind though that while shops vary my service calls were worth $80 (during store hours, double it once it closed) before I did anything and that's a lot of cake for 2 nuts.
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Jul 10, 2014 05:43
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Senior Funkenstien posted:I have a 1995 Honda Civic LX with a D15B7 engine. The block is broken and I need to replace it. Does anyone know of a place that has them priced decently and is that a job I would be able to do myself with standard tool and an engine lift? Replacing "just the block" is not something that's even possible in that exact phrasing. I'd just do the entire engine for simplicity (or short-block assembly if you've had recent head work or the car is lower-mileage), find a reputable "we-pull" junkyard (more likely to sell you a good engine than trying to determine its condition for yourself at a pick-n-pull style yard) or a wrecked and running swap donor if you've got space for another car (probably the cheaper way in the end, plus you have a whole parts car that you can use for anything else that's broken on your car). And an engine swap is entirely possible without a whole lot of tools, but it's a huge undertaking if you're inexperienced.
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Jul 10, 2014 23:25
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melon cat posted:That wheel bearing kit is definitely more than $50, so I'll pass on it. Thanks. Your lugnuts are also on backwards. If you'd like your wheels to stay attached to the car I'd recommend turning the nuts cone side in. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Nov 8, 2014 |
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Nov 8, 2014 21:01
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Away all Goats posted:So here's a few really stupid questions from someone who just got a manual (2003 Rav4) car: 1. Useful sometimes on sheer ice, you have less torque available so it's easier to avoid spinning. Otherwise you're just needlessly murdering your clutch. 2. Engine braking is a very good thing if you do it properly, get used to your ratios/shift points first and then read up on technique and start practising. 3. Yes, it's just inefficient.
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Nov 8, 2014 21:59
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Cage posted:Why do you have to let the clutch out while in N? When I do the rev matching I [clutch in, shift to N, give throttle blip and downshift same time, clutch out]. Double clutching just saves a bit of synchro wear since you're manually matching mainshaft/countershaft speeds. Modern gearboxes don't mind that speed difference too much, but it is The Right Way (I just rev match same as you, far too lazy to double clutch)
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Nov 8, 2014 22:06
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On a vehicle with a longitudinal engine you should always downshift though double clutching is once again not critical if you don't have any reason to worry about the integrity of your syncros. Your countershaft is the most important part in a longitudinal manual trans lubrication system (in a transaxle you have the diff at the bottom slinging oil proportional to wheel speed so none of this applies really). If you're in neutral it's spinning at idle speed and may not be slinging enough oil to lubricate the mainshaft (and since the OP shaft always spins at wheel speed this is not good). And if your clutch is in and you're in neutral nothing is spinning the countershaft at all and you have zero lubrication to the mainshaft so that's the worst case scenario. If that made zero sense I apologize, I had far too much coffee this morning.
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Nov 8, 2014 23:03
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You're good, I've reused worse than that. I made that mistake my first time too, and I've seen what happens when that situation goes unchecked. I'm a big believer in acorn type lugs for that reason. Anyway good to see you corrected it before anything bad happened  e: Memento posted:The thing with the lugnuts being the correct way around (conical section facing in) is that they work to center the wheel as well as secure it. Your car also has the little lip of the hub sticking out that also helps secure it, so there's less chance of you putting it on without it being centered. That being said, having the nuts on the correct way will mean there's no chance of getting it off center, and less chance of stressing the lugs themselves in ways they're not meant to be. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Nov 9, 2014 |
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Nov 9, 2014 02:03
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melon cat posted:So I suppose it's possible that there's damage to my lug studs after driving with backwards lug nuts for a good ~5 months? Didn't mean to scare you with that last post, I was talking about some pretty extreme cases. If they came loose it would have been pretty obvious, the visible damage in your pictures is the only damage that's been done here and we've determined it's not that bad.
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Nov 9, 2014 05:10
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SD-455 posted:anyone ever use any of those 3M Headlight Restoration kits? my headlights are cloudy as hell I used the Mothers one, but they all do the same thing and they all work really well. If they're super-foggy you'll need to either get one of the kits that has sanding blocks or some super-fine sandpaper. And as with any detailing product don't rush with it.
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Nov 9, 2014 21:29
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Insufficient caster and/or way-the-hell-out toe can cause a vibration. Also you may not have completely eliminated wheels/tires as a possible cause. Jack up the front of the car and give the wheels a good speedy spin by hand while watching the inside wheel flange and the tire for runout.
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Nov 11, 2014 04:30
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DELETED posted:Batteries don't work as well at low temperatures, which compounds the problem of oil viscosity. Fuel atomizes poorly in a cold engine since it tends to condense on the nice cold intake runners, valves and cylinder bores. It's even worse on diesels which rely solely on the heat from compressing air and fuel to run, so they generally have glow plugs installed. Those heat up the intake air a bit and give you better odds at firing up. Diesels are a bitch to get running if they get cold, diesel fuel its self gets pretty thick at low temperatures and so people use fuel additives and/or tank heaters along with special winter diesel fuel to keep their engines running in the cold. Glow plugs are generally only used in old-school indirect-injection engines, modern diesels will generally have a grid heater (basically a big fuckoff 12v toaster in the intake). And winter fuels (with less paraffin and more additives to stop what paraffin is in the fuel from solidifying, 'gelling' the fuel) are A Thing that the oil companies do, you can always tell when it happens if you're at an engine shop because the week it comes out they have a flood of work orders for lost power complaints (because less paraffin=less power). All diesel fuel delivery systems also do a lot more recirculating than they really need to because it throws warm fuel back into the tank to keep it from gelling during operation. Also Webastos/Espars (fuel-fired coolant heaters) are the loving bomb for cold-starting a diesel, but they're falling out of favor for various reasons. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Nov 18, 2014 |
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Nov 18, 2014 05:00
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Mine (exact same car but manual and ridiculous) doesn't seem to care what state the engine/tranny/driveline is in going between 4h/2h, and the 4wd light does indeed stay on until you move it a bit.
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Nov 30, 2014 05:52
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kastein posted:I don't know anything about Kia transfer cases (and Slavvy does, so if he says this is wrong, believe him not me) but some I am used to such as the np231 have a spring loaded mode fork, so they are forced into 4x4 by the shift cam but only returned to RWD by the spring. If there is too much torque preload on the chain/front output when you shift into RWD again, it won't actually disengage until that is corrected, which can be an issue if your tire pressures are mismatched, you did a uturn before shifting it, etc. Usually backing up straight about ten feet will make it pop out of 4x4. It's a drat shame kiatechinfo is behind a paywall now (unless Slavvy has access to that or a similar resource?), or I could tell right now. However I'll be dropping my tranny and T-case, hopefully before spring so I'll know at that point. I mean I could go outside right now and look at where the sensor plug is on the case, but gently caress that it's cold.
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Nov 30, 2014 18:58
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Caedus posted:Is the Sportage really that much worse in manual? Actually the manual boxes are sourced from Getrag and are thus one of the few non-terrible parts that went into these cars. It's ridiculous because of what I've done with it:  Also I'm planning on boosting it, just debating the merits of junkyard turbo vs. chinacharging while I wait for my budget to allow it. Slavvy posted:Tommychu has a combination of good luck and Stockholm syndrome. 'Good luck' is debatable- it didn't make the 15km drive to my shop when I bought it, found out shortly after that it needed an engine rebuild, and have been fighting a combination of poor engineering and severe PO abuse (and in the case of the rear main seal, my own stupidity) ever since. It's more that I knew what I was getting into.
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Dec 1, 2014 07:47
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The Vibe isn't really showing many of the typical Toyota failures. All the stuff that wasn't wrecked when somebody did the hit-n-run on me or when I've used it as a truck is still doing great, other than that the shift boot doesn't fit right anymore and the temp knob backlight is intermittent is all. The Matrix had some front bumper cracking issues, but GM took care of all the exterior plastics (and the stereo, which no longer loads/ejects CDs properly) so they're all still doing great... cladding and all 
Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Dec 21, 2014 |
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Dec 21, 2014 17:57
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Fucknag posted:That baffle is what's known as a windage tray. Oil gets whipped up by the airflow from the spinning crankshaft, like an oily vortex, which can cause lubrication issues at high RPM if it picks up too much (dropping the oil in the pan below the pump pickup), and also puts extra load on the crank for physics reasons (sucking up fractional horsepower); the tray provides something for the oil to hit and coalesce onto so it can drip back down, and also helps prevent the effect from occurring in the first place. On a truck motor it probably doesn't do much, but if you have it there's no real reason to leave it off. Just put a bead of RTV between the pan and gasket, gasket and tray, and one on top of the tray where it seals to the block, then put the whole sandwich up as one big assembly and bolt it in place. It's easier than it seems from looking at the diagram. It's not just a windage tray, it's (probably) also a main cap support. Mazda loved to put those in any engine that made triple digit horsepower. If it doesn't bolt to the main caps in some way then it's just a windage tray and you can ignore my 
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Dec 23, 2014 04:29
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It looks identical to the one in my FE3N and rather close to the one in my BP, both were stamped steel and both were labeled Main Bearing Support Plate in their respective FSMs.
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Dec 23, 2014 04:37
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Parts Kit posted:Is it true that, under normal conditions, the alternator should not be pushing more than at most 15 volts through your electrical system and should be closer to 14v +/- a small fraction? 14.7 volts. If the number 15 even comes into play you have a problem, either a bad connection on the voltage sense wire (most likely) or a slightly bad regulator. (efb)
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Feb 6, 2015 01:01
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