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I completely agree, as a Massachusetts resident. Now, what I've done in the past - - arrange for a friend to pick me up and bring me to where I am buying the car - write up a bill of sale selling a vehicle I rarely drive to said friend (don't do this unless you completely trust said friend, of course) - pick up new car, slap plate from "sold" vehicle on it, drive it home, tailed closely by friend in his car. Make sure all the lights work and don't do anything stupid, drive carefully. - soon as you get home, tear up bill of sale, take plate back off new car, put back on original vehicle, register new car. - if pulled over, show bill of sale and explain that your buddy bought your old car and part of the agreement was that he'd help you go get your new car. - if pulled over and you get questions about why you never unregistered your original car again, I'm not really sure what to do. I sincerely doubt this will happen. Since I only buy crummy cars, my backup story has always been that my buddy ended up owing me money somehow and offered me my car back a week later, but this probably wouldn't work for you... Obviously there are some risks involved, but I've never even been pulled over. This is where ensuring the new vehicle has all its lights and running gear in good condition before driving it, and following all traffic laws to the letter, comes in. I suggest avoiding holidays and friday/saturday nights as well. Before I realized mass didn't recognize out of state temp plates, I drove my M54A2 5 ton military cargo truck home from Pennsylvania on PA temp plates, and was even tailed by mass state police a few times. Never pulled over, I think it was a combination of them realizing I certainly wasn't going to try any funny business and was physically incapable of breaking the speed limit. Oh, and that whole "what the hell am I gonna do about this truck if I do pull this guy over? This is gonna be a LOT of paperwork" thing, too 
kastein fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Sep 13, 2012 |
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Sep 13, 2012 02:50
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bad wheel bearing or a separated belt in the tire... jack that wheel up and try wiggling it with your hands at 12 and 6 oclock, then at 3 and 9 oclock. If it wiggles only at 12 and 6 you have bad balljoints or control arm bushings, if it wiggles only at 3 and 9 you have bad tie rod ends or some kind of a steering issue, if it wiggles at both you either have all of the above or a bad wheel bearing. Also try spinning it while listening for ugly grinding/rasping noises in the hub, that's a certain sign of bad wheel bearings. If it passes all that, bring it to a shop and ask them to check the balance on that tire. Is it a fast thumping/clunking (i.e. sounds like multiple thumps per rotation of the wheel) or a slow one (sounds like one thump per rotation)? If the former, probably a wheel bearing, if the latter, probably a separated belt.
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Sep 13, 2012 05:20
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Won't fall off, but it can easily cause a blowout. Some of it may fall off in the process 
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Sep 13, 2012 05:33
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iv46vi posted:How about renting a Uhaul car tow dolly one way? cool idea but the rule is - if wheels are touching the ground, the vehicle must be legally registered and (technically) inspected. So even tow dollying a vehicle into or out of MA is not allowed unless you register it... unless you are simply going through as a non resident, i.e. a CT resident buying a car in VT and tow dollying it through MA on the way home. AFAIK that is OK. Practically, though, no one is going to look twice as long as the plate is not expired, the vehicle is properly secured, and the tow vehicle is in good condition and being driven safely. ESPECIALLY if you are towing it with a uhaul truck that happens to have out of state tags (as most of them do.) What you could do is rent an actual full car trailer, i.e. all wheels of the towed vehicle off the ground, and either borrow or rent a truck capable of towing it. That would be fully legal to the letter of the law. It will likely cost you several hundred dollars once all is said and done. This state is stupid and as a result I'm sure I'm not the only one to carefully bend the rules occasionally, because complying with them is ridiculous.
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Sep 13, 2012 06:16
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kimbo305 posted:Once I bought a car from CA and drove it cross country with the MA plates from another one of my cars. I made it all the way back to my street with no issue, and then a bicycle cop called in the plate while I was moving stuff back inside. I felt like he wasn't that clear on things, but I mentioned I had the bill of sale (didn't even show it to him) and he let me be, saying I had 7 days from date of purchase to go get the car registered. He was completely cool with me driving that car with the wrong plates. I know I just got lucky, but if you drove safe, you could probably get away with it. A friend of mine used my fastlane on his car with completely different plates (which were not on my fastlane account at all) for several months a while ago. No complaints from fastlane. They only really use that stuff in a few cases... if the police ask for the info, if you report the transponder stolen, or if someone goes through a tollbooth without a successful read/paying cash. Otherwise they just happily charge it to your fastlane account and forget about it, as they should. I was pleasantly surprised by this.
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Sep 13, 2012 14:24
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Hate to say it midge, but to me that really sounds like rod bearings or horrible valvetrain issues. Hoping I am wrong because neither of those is a cheap fix. Did the oil light come on when it started running poorly?
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Sep 14, 2012 15:24
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BoostCreep posted:Can someone recommend a reliable yet cheap engine hoist? Or more to the point, is this any good? http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9232417/857/tools/jacks_ramps_and_lifting_tools/engine_hoists_stands/ I've used the smaller HF one (I believe it is half ton rated at minimum extension) with a 500+lb cast iron engine plus a transmission and transfer case dangling from it at full extension numerous times. Bounced it around, dragged it, swayed it, basically did anything I could to it while trying to line the whole mess up with the engine compartment and its still going strong two years later. At one point, even used it on grass, and had to drag it away from the vehicle the drivetrain was coming out of with a pickup, since the wheels sank in.  It's basically bombproof. Do yourself a favor and get the load leveler bar they have as well. Shoot a decent amount of lithium grease on the screw and work it back and forth before attaching the motor, you'll be glad you did.
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Sep 15, 2012 14:22
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I did break one thing on it the first time I used it. One wheel broke. I had to drag it through half frozen mud six inches deep in the middle of January, in a postage stamp sized yard, to get a transmission for my daily driver so I could install it to drive to work the next day... that day pretty much sucked. Anyways, one wheel turned sideways and got packed with frozen mud and ended up breaking off when I got to the sidewalk with it. They replaced the wheel on warranty with no questions asked even though it was clearly a case of abuse. That hoist is one of the few things from HF I have always and will always recommend (the 2" weld on hitch receiver and 6 ton jackstands being the others), most other things I have gotten there have disappointed me somehow.
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Sep 15, 2012 14:49
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Leave it upside down over a drain pan for a few days to get most of the oil out first. Then either throw it out or bring it to a quicklube garage and ask if they'll toss it in the bin for you... I know when I worked at one we were always more than happy to recycle filters or oil for people, we had a specific mini dumpster for oil filters that was emptied every few weeks and went to a crusher that squeezed the remaining oil out, then shredded the metal and paper and recycled it. http://www.howdoyourecycleoilfilters.com/4.html
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Sep 18, 2012 17:17
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Nubile Hillock posted:I'm thinking about just getting a new car. I can get a hyundai accent which is even better on gas for around $2500. This car's going to need some more major work in the near future - sway bar bushings, CV joints, wheel bearings, struts and whatever else dies in the meantime. sway bar bushings are easy, CV joints are a few hours apiece maximum depending on model, wheel bearings can be done at the same time, struts as well. Maybe $600 in parts (unless you are very unlucky)... but if you pay someone to do it, yes, it will be expensive. Check the oil, make sure there's no milky residue at the top of the dipstick or under the oil fill cap, if not, keep putting oil in it when needed and drive it till it dies, which may well be never.
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Oct 1, 2012 19:57
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I could swear you're in the bachelor poo poo thread and from the greater Boston area... let me know if you need a hand, I'm too broke to buy gas atm but not very far away and probably have all the tools needed. It generally is a messy job, I usually get about 3/4 of the coolant on myself and the ground and the other 1/4 ends up in the drain pan.
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Oct 2, 2012 18:07
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I don't have plat anymore since I lost the Car Game, email is kastein (at) w1kas.net though.
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Oct 2, 2012 21:14
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Vim Fuego posted:I have read that if you do have a leaky oil plug you can switch it out without losing all your oil by opening the oil filler, sticking a shop vac on it, and turning the shop vac on before you pull the plug. The theory is that the vacuum keeps most of the oil from falling out of the drain while you put a new gasket/plug in. I have not tried it myself but it sounds like an interesting experiment. that's a really nifty idea, I'll have to remember it.
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Oct 4, 2012 05:22
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Measure voltage at the field terminals (one should be around 12 volts, the other should be either PWM at anywhere from 0 to 12 volts, or cycling between 0 and 12 depending on the regulator style) and also check the voltage on the B+ terminal. For bonus points, measure voltage from the B+ terminal on the alternator to the battery positive, if you see more than a few tenths of a volt drop, you have a wiring issue or a blown fusible link / fuse somewhere. e: also check your ground straps, never worked on a SHO but I would bet on one at the battery negative, one to three from the engine to the chassis, and perhaps one from the alternator to the block or the chassis. kastein fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Oct 4, 2012 |
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Oct 4, 2012 06:07
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Don't own an F150, but is that the power steering pump right above it? I'd almost put money on the connector being for the low pressure switch on the power steering pump in some models, often there'll be such a switch that tells the ECU to rev the engine a bit to bring PS pressure back up.
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Oct 5, 2012 01:55
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Manual or auto? Last time I heard a dodge whining it was the torque converter. Could also be the pilot bearing on a manual, ps pump, alternator, ac compressor clutch bearing, etc.
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Oct 6, 2012 23:16
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I just did a head job on a 99 cavalier, it wasn't bad (pushrod 2.2 motor) but gently caress ever buying one of those basket cases. So many dumb design decisions.
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Oct 7, 2012 07:40
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The jeep 4.0 has hydraulic lifters so no worries there. It could be a flywheel/flexplate, but it really doesn't sound like it. Still, give the bellhousing a listen, if it's especially loud near there, you might be onto something. It really sounds way too loud to be an exhaust leak, but I could be wrong.
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Oct 9, 2012 02:34
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Also - I'm saying that as a guy who has had multiple jeep 4.0 manifolds crack. Hell, the factory one from my 98 XJ (removed it when I put the new motor in a few months ago) had a 1/8" wide crack all the way around one of the runners where it went into the 2-to-1 collector. It wasn't nearly that loud, unless your phone mic is picking things up strangely. Loose flexplate to torque converter bolts (you don't have these, so maybe pressure plate bolts or flywheel bolts... or some other issue in the bellhousing, or something else entirely) however sounded so much like a bad bottom end on my 91 MJ that I actually threw my engine hoist, a full set of fluids and gaskets, and my spare motor into the bed before leaving for a trip to Pennsylvania, fully expecting to have to swap a motor in the breakdown lane or a rest area. One of my friends didn't believe I drove down on a motor that I thought was about to blow until I goosed the throttle, which resulted in him yelling "oh my GOD! You drove that here from Massachusetts?!" and taking a few steps back. I want it to be a manifold issue for your sake, but it just doesn't sound like one to me.
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Oct 9, 2012 02:46
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Astonishing Wang posted:Well, she done quit on me. The clattering got worse, then it felt like a thousand marbles shot through the engine compartment and it died. Seems like there'd be a trouble code for 'I just poo poo the bed.' that blows  I dunno what 4.0 prices are like where you are, but up here I can get one for literally 100 bucks. If your cylinder head didn't get wrecked by whatever let loose inside, you can simply buy a new HG, new head bolts, throw your head on one, and put it back in.
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Oct 9, 2012 15:27
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DO NOT EVER BUY A MOTOR FROM TITAN! They don't produce a reliable product, nor do they back it up when it fails (warranty or not), and they've been caught setting up multiple sockpuppet accounts on internet forums to try to clear their name. I can't say as it worked very well for them. I'd say to go with a Golen, ATK, or Jasper if you want a good drop-in motor with a warranty, they can probably even put the required 0331 head on it for you. Tools you'll need: * E12 inverse torx socket * regular SAE and metric sockets, ratchets, etc * krikit II belt tension gauge (assuming you don't have a spring loaded belt tensioner on that jeep, I forget if late model TJs had them) * engine hoist (the harbor freight one is great, one of the few things I recommend by them) * load leveler (the HF one is great, again, one of the few things...) * probably a dremel for exhaust header to downpipe or header to pre-cat bolts - though you've already had your head off to do the lifters, so they might just come right out. Parts you'll want to have on hand: * new thermostat, thermostat gasket * new water pump and gasket if your new motor doesn't come with a good one on it * new heater core water tube (screws into the water pump, the old one never comes out clean) * indian head gasket shellac - the kind in the metal can, not the brown plastic jar. * new spark plugs * new cylinder head (or your old one, if it's in good shape - check for cracks if you didn't do so when you did the lifters) * new head gasket and bolts (fel-pro for both) * oil filter, coolant, oil * distributor gasket for a 00-01 (goes under the distributorless ignition system sensor) * new oil pan and valve cover gaskets if you really want to go stir-crazy on the new motor or they're leaking when you get it (get the fel-pro one piece blue silicone and steel ones, they're way better) * new rear main seal if it's leaking on the new motor - I'm of the mindset that says not to change it unless it's leaking, because there's a good chance of nicking the crank and/or screwing up the RMS install if you've never done it before. Then you get to drop the pan again in a few thousand miles and do it over. I prefer to wait till I know it's actually leaking. * manifold gasket (same gasket is for both the intake and exhaust, you probably already know this) * any exhaust donut gaskets and/or bolts for attaching the manifolds to the pre-cats * new motor mount bushings if you so desire - do NOT buy Anchor brand, the price is great but the product is horrible. You don't need to do this, but it's so much easier when the motor's coming out for other reasons already. Basically, strap the transmission up with a large ratchet strap, unbolt all the accessories and hoses and pipes and stuff, bag all the bolts up and label them so you know where the gently caress they came from, yank engine out, put new engine in. Change oil. Removing the grille may make the job a lot easier. The last 4.0 I swapped (in commissargribb's YJ) we did without pulling the grille, but we had a 2 ton chainfall hoist hanging from a warehouse ceiling to do it with, and 6 hands and a load leveler to guide it in, so it's not really a fair comparison. I always pull the grille and radiator when I'm doing one with a regular engine hoist. You may need to remove the AC condensor and have the system evacuated if you can't find a way to carefully turn the condensor to one side and tie it to something. With practice you can do a 4.0 swap in one day, but budget 3-4 for the first one. My first 4.0 pull and install (on separate jeeps) I was just there to help/stand around and drink beer, so I got a bit of a jump on the learning curve. e: holy christ that's a lot of words 
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Oct 9, 2012 16:48
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Depends. If it is a conrod bearing or main, you might get away with reusing the block, put new crank/bearings/conrods/any other needed parts in it. If it was a piston skirt that let loose, the noise getting worse probably meant the piston came apart and the conrod spent some quality time with the cylinder bore, which means the block is junk now. Either way, you're probably better off with a known good 4.0 short/longblock unless prices are truly horrible where you live.
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Oct 9, 2012 17:57
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Geoj posted:If the car isn't overheating and the manufacturer gives it a 10 year change interval why bother any sooner? Is this where I'm supposed to mention how GM said Dexcool was long life, except how it becomes acidic well before they suggested changing it and eats all your gaskets?
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Oct 11, 2012 04:13
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If it is an oem/dealer part, maybe. That is still ridiculously high though I am used to buying 30 dollar junkyard starters and 80 dollar remanufactured domestic starters for 20 year old cars...
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Oct 11, 2012 15:45
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It's way more than I charge, but I typically only do car work for my friends and people they know. I had to deal with too many people who tried to blame us for their deathtrap breaking more when I worked at a garage and it's not worth the stress, I still remember the idiot who sued us after his crapcan's grille fell off in my hand when I felt for the hood release. Corporate settled just to make the rear end in a top hat go away  Some other guy tried to accuse me of not changing his oil after my pit tech told me he had to break the sludge with a screwdriver to get anything to actually drain out. Fortunately he called his SO to ask how long it'd been since the last change... 4.5 years.
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Oct 11, 2012 17:12
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As of a year ago, the autozone battery core charge is 12 dollars. Hardly enough to be worried about losing for a few days, and they paid me in cash when I brought the old one back.
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Oct 11, 2012 22:05
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Check your grounds - engine to chassis, chassis to body, engine to battery, etc. Not sure which ones are generally used on a Nissan truck, but you'll know them when you see them. If any are in poor condition, clean and/or replace them. Also check your ignition off draw. There's a chance something is draining your battery while you're asleep or at work.
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Oct 16, 2012 02:12
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Flashing CEL is Really Bad. Generally it means a severe misfire condition with the possibility of drivetrain damage - if it's due to a lean condition, it can burn the exhaust valves, if it's due to a rich condition or a bad ignition issue, it can melt your catalytic converter's core out. Swapping the coil was an excellent diagnostic plan, at least now you know it's a coil issue not any of the other parts.
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Oct 18, 2012 04:47
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quaint bucket posted:Can I put on a 15 inch rim for my car even though it currently has 16 inch rims? is it right or left hand drive? How many doors?
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Oct 18, 2012 22:15
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auto vs manual: depends on make/model/year. For instance, I've heard Subaru autos are bulletproof and the manuals are somewhat glass-like. Chrysler autos are loving horrible (in my experience, that of my friends, and that of my family) but they tend to use New Venture Gear manuals on their trucks/larger cars, not sure about FWD applications - I've never worked with a Chrysler manual that wasn't fairly good and reliable, though. I've heard that Ford autos are crummy but haven't experienced it firsthand. Jeeps - the Pugeot (not so affectionately nicknamed puke-goat) BA-10/5 installed in the mid to late 80s XJs and others is known for having gearsets made of glass and a housing made of cheese. The AW4 auto is loving bulletproof, unless you really, really abuse one you'll never have it fail. I've killed two and I'm working on my third, but I'm not nice to them at all. Aisin and New Venture Gear manuals in jeeps are good. Toyotas - the manual (at least the one behind the 3VZE) is closely related to the Aisin AX15 and the one behind the 22R is closely related to the AX5, both are good from what I understand. The A340 auto is mostly the same as an Aisin AW4 and is similarly strong; they stand up to 1000hp behind 2ZJ-GTEs in Supras from what I've been told. Others - YMMV. What are you looking at getting?
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Oct 19, 2012 00:04
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BrokenKnucklez posted:The GM TH400 is about bullet proof as well. And really the TH350 is pretty decent with in its specified ranges. Common as dirt and can be built up! Agreed on all fronts. I've never heard of an outright BAD ZF product, they all seem at least good, most are excellent. As for revving in park/neutral - that sounds like an oil delivery issue due to the oil pump not being driven in P/N or something. This is an issue on some Chryco autotragics as well, some aftermarket shift kits fix this by drilling holes in certain spots within the valve body casting or separator plate to enable the P/N oiling circuit even while in park/neutral. I have heard the GM 4L60E and 4L80E are quite good as well but can't vouch for it myself, having never owned one. I've also heard from sources I greatly respect that two-speed Powerglide autos are completely bulletproof if properly built, and are frequently used in drag cars. That's good enough for me. And one of my friends gets butthurt anytime I poo poo on Chrysler autos, and always uses the TF727 as an example of a good one. Now I know why, it must be the only good one they ever built I know the 42RE, 44RE, and 46RE are total dogshit in stock form, and building them only really prolongs their life.
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Oct 19, 2012 02:02
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All of those are cool in some way or another. Carry on, sir.
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Oct 19, 2012 15:15
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Due to packaging constraints, the plug wires on that engine go through tubes built into the valve cover down to the spark plug seats. There is a small gasket or o-ring on the end of each tube (iirc they are cast into the aluminum valve cover) which keeps the oil out of them, or doesn't in your case. All you have to do is pull the valve cover (seem to recall it being 4 10mm head hex bolts) and replace the valve cover gasket and plug wire tube o-rings. Should be easy and cheap once you move enough stuff out of the way to get to them. Don't get dirt inside the valve cover or on the top of the head when you have it off and don't overtorque the valve cover bolts putting it back together and you'll be fine. E: it looks like you also need a few gaskets for the pcv system parts and whatnot where they connect to the valve cover. Hopefully one of the actual subaru guys (CT, SSS, SlowIsFast, chrisgt, etc) will be able to say more.
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Oct 19, 2012 19:06
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Did anything attach to those hoses? It looks like one has been cut. That's almost certainly an oil cooler, power steering fluid cooler, or auto trans auxiliary cooler. If you had to disconnect hoses from it to get it out, you need to transfer it, else you can simply leave it out because it wasn't doing anything anyways. It's held on with what appear to be plastic push-pins through the fins of the main radiator - that's somewhat of a hackjob, but people do it all the time and get away with it. They should clip to something on the other side of the main radiator, if you are careful you can detach them and attach it to the new one the same way, just make sure to not damage the flat tubes the coolant runs through. e: not an AC condenser, the rubber hoses and hose clamps mean it's a low pressure system.
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Oct 21, 2012 04:13
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Looks like an external torx to me. Not sure what size, it looks like an E-huge. Check Sears in the sockets section, I have this set and it works great: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-7-pc-external-torx-socket-set/p-00934570000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 Might want to bring that bolt with you to make sure that set has a large enough socket in it.
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Oct 21, 2012 06:04
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Where does the click come from? IIRC the Magnum (3.9, 5.2, 5.9) starters do have a solenoid built in, which is controlled by a relay in the underhood fuse/relay panel. Depending on where the clicking comes from it could be either the relay or the solenoid. Tell him to try whacking the starter with a rubber mallet or chunk of 2x4, if it starts, he needs to buy a new starter or new solenoid in the near future, preferably before it strands him.
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Oct 23, 2012 21:21
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Check rockauto.com - they often have good brand parts for less than brick&mortar parts store prices, and there are a lot of good aftermarket cat companies, just not the noname cheapest I can get priced ones. And yeah, if you live in cali and need a cat... bend over. Sorry dude.
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Oct 24, 2012 15:51
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I know as of the late 90s and early 00s Chrysler was still doing legitimately different builds/parts for 49-state/federal vs CA vehicles, but not sure about other makes or what happened after that really. Also, enough states follow the utopian vision of cars loaded with four-figure components that fart rainbows... that it gets a little silly to build two versions of something now. Here's a list straight from wikipedia: wikipedia posted:States adopting the California standards include Arizona (2012 model year),[1] Connecticut, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New Mexico (2011 model year), New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, and Washington, as well as the District of Columbia.[2][3] Only a few states have the draconian smog inspections / CARB bureau requirements, but all those states either now require or have required for some time that vehicles meet the CA OEM specs for their model year. Really makes engine swaps fun, too. I don't know how it works in CA but the federal requirement is that the engine donor be a later model year than the recipient chassis, and that all OEM emissions control equipment (yay miles of vacuum line! charcoal canisters! EVAP purge solenoids!) from the engine donor be swapped as well. Depending on how much of a nazi the person inspecting the vehicle is, you may even be required to include the donor transmission and other parts, as theoretically those could affect the fuel economy ratings  though that's rare and basically only brought up if you seem like a dick from what I've heard.Various states and metropolitan areas are more or less stringent about this. I know in CT, all they care about is that it passes the sniffer test for your model year, they don't inspect your emissions system or compare it to anything. It's much the same in MA unless you really piss the guy off.
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Oct 25, 2012 18:16
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two words for you... "smoke tune". Most of the guys doing that dumb poo poo don't have an IQ above room temperature. In centigrade.
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Oct 26, 2012 03:58
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Agreed. Keep the acetone off the paint, and make sure you use a brand new razor blade, it'll go way easier. If you have a hair dryer handy, warm the stickers up first.
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Oct 27, 2012 23:30
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