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canyoneer posted:Yes. Drums. The drum and handbrake are one and the same. You can adjust the handbrake cable for slack, or you can adjust the drums themselves. Drums have a self-ratcheting system which theoretically clicks over and maintains the ideal clearance between shoe and drum all the time; in real life that doesn't work so drums also (most of them) have adjustment slots through which you stick a screwdriver or similar and manually turn over the ratcheting mechanism. After you do that, you adjust the handbrake travel using the cable adjuster. The handbrake adjuster is only for lever travel and isn't intended to change what the handbrake does at the drums themselves. If your handbrake is super heavy but the brakes feel crap, chances are someone has been lazy and instead of adjusting the drums at the wheel, they've simply masked the issue by tightening the crap out of the handbrake cable. If it's within your means and knowledge, look up a manual for your car and see if it's possible to adjust the drums. Slack off the handbrake cable prior to doing this, adjust them, then tighten it to how you want it and everything should be fine.
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Jan 19, 2013 01:23
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ExecuDork posted:I adjusted my parking brake in my BMW e36 about 6 months ago, following the how-to and illustrations in the Hayne's manual. The manual was pretty crappy, and an on-line tutorial also skipped over some important information. But even after getting past all the assumptions made by other people about "this part is tricky" and "this part is obvious and simple and nobody could get stuck for 45 minutes trying to figure out step 3 in my 10-step, 20-minute guide", it was pretty easy. As has been said, it involved removing the rear wheels, adjusting the mechanism by sticking a screwdriver through a little hole (this was the hard part), and finishing up by tightening the cables on the lever. Those cars are both disc rear aren't they? Or is the falcon ute drum rear. Motronic posted:When you tap the brakes as you are moving backwards. I've actually run into a situation where rear drums were not getting adjusted because the person rarely ever backed up (semicircle driveway plus parking alongside the building at work). The adjusters still worked fine, as backing up across the parking lot and slamming the brakes 4 or 5 times actually resolved the issue. This works on some vehicles but not others, depends on the ratchet thingy design. There's also the added complication that some cars, like toyota vitz for example, have an auto adjuster which isn't adequate and no manual port. In which case the only course is to take the drum off, manually spread the shoes by a couple of clicks and put it all back together. Drums are horrible and should be banned.
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Jan 19, 2013 04:08
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KozmoNaut posted:But why offer both discs and drums in the rear on the same model car? It would be much cheaper to choose one and stick with it. It's definitely cheaper now to build discs than drums. Drums are more complicated, have more parts with varying manufacturing techniques, and the vast majority of cars having discs means that the tooling is more common for them. The only reason anyone puts drums on any passenger vehicle is as an artificial marketing tool. Make no mistake, discs are superior in EVERY real-world way and the only reason most commercial vehicles still use drums is because the manufacturing inertia is much stronger in that field, and drums are perceived as lower-maintenance. Which is true when it comes to disc vs drum lifespan, but that's about it. The newest scania and mercedes trucks use disc brakes (at least on the front) and as more sophisticated ESC programs are expected for every vehicle, commercial and otherwise, drums are becoming less common because modulating brake effort is much easier and more straightforward with discs.
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Jan 19, 2013 22:13
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Yeah try changing the fluid, plain old dex3 will work fine and may or may not be cheaper than actual power steering fluid in your area. If it doesn't go away your pump is probably buggered.
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Jan 20, 2013 00:07
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ExecuDork posted:Yup, rear discs on both, and both use a separate drum brake for the parking brake. I think you have to take the rear discs off, or at least move part of them out of the way, to properly adjust the parking brake on the Falcon ute, so the fact the rear pads needed replacing made it a case of "while you're in there anyway". I'm honestly surprised the falcon ute has rear discs, is it a BF or what?
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Jan 20, 2013 03:15
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Motronic posted:That's basically what I'm thinking. But not water.....just contamination in general. Alternatively, disconnect the reservoir return hose (and plug the return hole on the reservoir!) and put it into a large bottle. Have a friend start the car and steer it left to right while you fill the reservoir with new fluid as it empties. When new fluid starts coming out of the return line, turn off the car and reconnect everything. Totally flushes the fluid with no mess if you're careful.
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Jan 20, 2013 08:54
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melon cat posted:What's a sure-fire way of knowing when your brake drum shoes need to be changed? I was about to change mine, but they seem to be okay (please correct me if I'm wrong, though). The new shoe is on the left, existing one is on the right. How much life do you figure the existing ones have left? Years and years to go. They're only usually stuffed if they have about 2mm or less. They wear very slowly on most vehicles; the smaller and lighter the car, the more slowly they wear.
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Jan 21, 2013 04:09
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Won't make any difference unless the drain clogs and the gutter floods, it'll be fine.
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Jan 22, 2013 06:34
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Does anyone here have any experience with first-generation toyota 3S-GE engines? Specifically in an 80's celica. My fiancee is on the brink of buying a manual 87 and I'm reluctant to let her because she wants something with good fuel economy and I have the feeling it wouldn't be. It's a manual car with 200,000km's which has sort of fallen into our lap. Does anyone here drive one of these things and know what they're like on gas?
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Jan 25, 2013 22:57
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That looks...pretty loving poo poo. Oh well.
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Jan 25, 2013 23:41
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I've got both; I've found the ramps are most useful when you're playing around with a transmission or driveshaft or exhaust because they let you lay under the car without having stands get in the way. Other from that, stands are the way to go. Anecdotally, I have a set of weyco ramps constructed from L-section steel trellis and they're now pretty badly warped because, despite their weight rating, they can't support a bmw e24.
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Jan 26, 2013 23:10
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It is overwhelmingly likely that a car that modern will have an in-tank fuel filter integrated with the fuel pump. These aren't hard to change and I would be surprised if However, based on your problem I would be looking at the immobiliser system. If it has a transponder key+barrel antenna type system, the antenna or immo control unit may be faulty. The engine will crank and crank but the immobiliser won't allow the ECU to supply fuel and start the engine. I could be entirely off-base about this but I don't see why a Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Jan 27, 2013 |
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Jan 27, 2013 08:19
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Geoj posted:Its a Saturn (GM.) Sorry I am completely mentally handicapped; I read the entirety of his original post and STILL convinced myself it was a ford somehow.
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Jan 27, 2013 08:31
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Does whatever equipment you're using have any oscilloscope sort of function at all? A faulty CPS will be blatently obvious straight away. Also, I know you've probably already done this, but have you physically looked at the plugs? If they're completely worn out it may be flooding when it tries to start. What makes you think it's a CPS and not coils/igniter? Anything in particular?
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Jan 27, 2013 09:02
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some texas redneck posted:My equipment is a (decent) OBD2 -> Bluetooth adapter and an app on my phone. One thing worth trying, maybe, is to repeatedly cycle the ignition fully on and off without trying to crank. Every time you set it to ON the fuel pump will briefly operate to pressurise the system (don't know if you'll be able to hear it when it does this). Some cars have more audible pumps than others, really depends on the intended market as to how much sound deadening there is. In-tank pumps are surprisingly noisy. How difficult is it to pull that crap out, provided it isn't spark related?
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Jan 27, 2013 09:38
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I have a cheap multimeter as well.
Texas)
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Looks like an in-tank pump to me...? Or is that whole thing somehow located outside of the tank in a little pod?
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Jan 27, 2013 09:47
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Ultimately, after you finish digging up whatever you can unearth regarding the CKP (provided you don't find anything abnormal), I would replace the fuel filter and have a go at pulling out the fuel pump just to see if it still goes reliably and if anything is clogged etc. I've seen in-tank pumps pass a resistance test at the contacts but not function consistently; it's just one of those things. You can only be sure by pulling it out, supplying 12v to the contacts and feeling it spin in your hand  edit: I don't see how the o2 sensors and so on would be responsible as the car isn't operating in closed-loop when it's trying to start. Fuel pressure tester is a good idea, albeit not free.
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Jan 27, 2013 09:55
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VelociBacon posted:Christ STR return the drat vehicle it's the first issue of many you're going to have with a used Saturn. Return it now or kick yourself hard later Are they that bad? American cars are a mystery to me in terms of what's expectedof them reliability-wise. How different is a saturn to a chevy? Just the badge?
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Jan 27, 2013 11:02
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If it's the same engine as a holden vectra or what have you it can't be that bad, those are considered middle of the road here. I'm genuinely dying to know what the problem is, now.
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Jan 27, 2013 11:13
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Godholio posted:Can someone explain the idea of a lifetime fuel filter in the loving tank? How on Earth is that better than an inline model that takes $10 and 5 minutes to replace? They aren't really 'lifetime', in the sense that they can and are replaced. It depends on what the service schedule looks like for the country the vehicle is sold in; some brands over here replace the in-tank filter every 60,000km's. It really isn't that hard to do (on most cars) and the benefits for production, reliability and maintenance are significant. From what I know, brands like Ryco make in-tank filters aftermarket so it isn't that big a deal.
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Jan 27, 2013 23:02
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General_Failure posted:Ryco don't make poo poo. They slap their name on things so quality varies wildly. I'm really unhappy with the last two Ryco oil filters. I don't think they have valves anymore. Both engines lose their prime so drat easily now. I almost feel like crying when I start one up if it's been sitting. Oh god... the sounds Is genuine really hard to get/expensive for your car? I've never understood why it matters so much to save $15 on a filter that you fit every half a year at most.
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Jan 27, 2013 23:13
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General_Failure posted:Generally pretty drat hard to get. Hell I'd gladly pay a bit more for better quality. I mean when you are already in $30 or so for a poo poo filter, a little more for a good filter would be nice. They cost about as much as whatever oil on special in the right grade is that I choose to put in it. I'm considering Black and gold this time round. It may be lovely supermarket branded oil but it's rated for older petrol and light diesel engines so it seems like it has a fair chance of having ZDDP. I don't know. Last time I think I used Castrol GTX or something. Do you know about this stuff? http://www.moreyoil.co.nz/ I know a few people who play around with ancient BMW's who swear by it. The flat tappets in the M30 wear the cam and themselves pretty badly if you use 'modern' oils, adding this stuff plus very basic 20w50 works wonders.
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Jan 27, 2013 23:31
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Toyota marketed the self-cranking thing as a feature for women. Because you only have to flick the key to start instead of holding it there, which is so hard. Additionally it makes implementing a push-button start simpler because the systems are the same across the model. Also makes wiring up the clutch interlock simpler.General_Failure posted:Well if you can get your hands on a fuel pressure test gauge and your car can accomodate it, that's probably something to check. My old man's 72 mercedes has the same thing. Most of my old BMW's have had it too.
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Jan 28, 2013 00:53
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Geoj posted:In my experience with "lifetime" filters, they are integrated into the pump and are not separable or replaceable without replacing the pump as well. My wife's Mazda 6 is like this...the only way to replace the filter is to buy the $300+ (at parts stores...I don't even want to know what the dealer charges) fuel pump assembly and replace it. Really? The japanese cars I've dealt with (which don't include late model mazda's) have the filter as a convoluted plastic thingy. You take the entire pump/float assembly out of the tank, then you have to pry open a series of plastic clips to take out the float, pump, pipes etc leaving you with the hollow core filter that everything plugs onto.
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Jan 28, 2013 01:26
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EightBit posted:When using Torque to try diagnosing sputtering in a 2000 Jeep 4.0, what measurements should I focus on? Also, should a graph of the o2 sensor reading be flat at idle or is it normal to have a plateau every few seconds? I'll post a screenshot when i get home, kinda hard to do with a phone. If it's the upstream sensor (normally called bank1 sensor1 or just sensor 1) it should be in a constant lazy wave when the car is in closed loop.
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Jan 31, 2013 01:29
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Raw_Beef posted:Thats a very rough signal wave. A high peak indicates a low 02 content. It should be smooth almost like a sine wave, and running at at least 1hz. I cant really tell how much time that graph covers. I second this.
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Jan 31, 2013 03:59
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Here's a random question. Earlier today I was driving a nissan with a CVT, and when you floored it the engine built it's way up to the redline and just sat at what I presume was peak power while the car accelerated. I know how CVT's work and why they do what they do etc. What I don't understand is why they aren't faster. As in, why don't ferrari or whoever build CVT cars as a matter of course? No matter how fast your DSG box is, the engine still has to work it's way through x number of imperfect gear ratios. It seems like a CVT would be ideal for an engine that makes huge power in a very narrow range because you could keep the engine in that range indefinitely; the acceleration advantages would surely be huge. Is it really just a matter of weight and strength? Or are there other, more subtle reasons?
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Feb 1, 2013 01:37
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Fixit posted:My 240 has been dieing at random times and when I start it in the morning or after it has been sitting for a while it needs a good amount of throttle to idle out, otherwise it dies. Any ideas or suggestions? Take the whole light housing out of the car (should just be a couple of screws/10mm bolts). Take the turn bulb out and pour it out. Investigate why it's filled with water  As for dying, do you often run it for a short period of time then switch it off before it can warm up? This prevents the plugs from getting hot enough to self-clean and they eventually foul and make it tricky for the car to run. Try only switching it off once it's warm, if possible. See if it makes a difference.
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Feb 1, 2013 06:21
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poemdexter posted:I have a 05 Hyundai Sonata that decided it didn't like coolant anymore and decided to spew it everywhere on the way to work today. I'm wondering if this is something I can fix myself or if I need a mechanic. Pics: Can you quick and dirty MS-paint a circle around where you think the leak is coming from? There's that very large hose which goes to the radiator, two smaller ones about half the diameter which go to the heater and are at the back of the motor, and two even smaller ones half the size again which go into the throttlebody.
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Feb 2, 2013 00:45
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KozmoNaut posted:Is there anything I can about an out-of-round tire other than replacing it? Not much beyond re-balancing. You could just swap that wheel for the spare if it's possible on your car. Did you check for a warped/buckled rim? Sometimes it can be very subtle and makes them hell to balance. Alternatively the balance shop may just have done a poo poo job; is the vibration coming through the steering wheel or through your seat? If it's the latter it'll be a wheel on the rear. A lot of the time people don't balance the rear wheels, especially on a solid axle car, because of the perception that you won't be able to tell the difference (+lazyness).
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Feb 2, 2013 20:57
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Yeah if it's only doing it under braking it might be brake rotor run-out and have nothing to do with the wheel itself.
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Feb 2, 2013 22:01
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Raw_Beef posted:The first image is a normal o2 sensor wave for closed loop operation. Textbook normal sine wave 1hz. I find this really interesting too; in a professional capacity it'd be cool to have something on my phone that would let me play around with OBD2. Does a jeep that old even have individual coils, or does it have leads+distributor/coil brick? You're dead-on about the o2 sensor waves.
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Feb 4, 2013 01:03
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Raw_Beef posted:Does the vehicle do this when stationary and at 2500 rpm? If you cant get it do make the noise while stationary, the problem is suspension or drivetrain related. This may or may not be the issue at all (sedona TPS). There is a Service bulletin out for that vehicle where the TPS is replaced with a more robust design for this very problem, along with the software update. The TPS itself is a faulty design on some of them and the fix is both replace and computer upgrade.
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Feb 5, 2013 04:36
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Farside posted:The van was in the shop ~2-3 years ago for the exact same problem. Both times we brought it in the check engine light was on as well as the ESC light. The van also went into "limp home mode" only allowing us to drive ~10 MPH. The first time it was in they replaced some sensor if I recall correctly. So I guess that only updating the software would be right if it was the TPS that was replaced the first time. When I get home I'll see if I can find the old receipt to see what was replaced. Unfortunately I can't link you to it because it's on the kia dealer network site. I can flick you an email with the file if you want, it's a relatively small .doc file. I know that if you don't fit the TPS correctly it can cause a slight misfire and running rough because one of the little terminal legs has poor contact.
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Feb 5, 2013 21:17
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West SAAB Story posted:Can it be found on Kia Tech Info? I really have no idea as I've never used that website, but quite probably. If you have access to it, and it's laid out like the one I use, it'll be under VQ CARNIVAL/SEDONA>Fuel System>MIL on with DTC P2135.
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Feb 5, 2013 21:33
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Red_Fred posted:I have a 2002 Toyota/Lexus Altezza AS300/IS300 and it needs a new battery. I have the new battery I just wanted to check what the usual procedure is when changing out a battery. Anything to watch out for? Not particularly. You'll lose your radio programming, clock etc. Connect the positive lead first I guess.
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Feb 7, 2013 06:59
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Look for over-spray on the muffler, those cars frequently had under seal lazily sprayed directly on half of the muffler. Can't think of anything else it could be, the yaris is pretty basic.
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Feb 9, 2013 02:04
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Raw_Beef posted:These days there are cheap-ish scan tools that can do all the computer modules not just OBDII, but they arent like $50 cheap. AFAIK its more like $500, but i could be wrong. We charge 45 bucks. We are a rip-off but that's what you get at a dealership I guess.
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Feb 10, 2013 07:54
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Planeshifter2 posted:I drive a 2010 Prius which I got about 6 months ago. About two months after getting the car, the TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) warning light came on. I took it to a service station where I had the tires inspected and was told there was no problem with the tires and they filled them with some air for me and the TPMS light went off. Two months after that, the TPMS light came on again. Took it in again, they looked at the tires again, said everything was fine and that it was most likely due to changes in temperature (this was right when it started getting really cold). Once again, filled the tires with air and sent me on my way. Now as of a week ago my TPMS light is back on. Do I need a new tire/tires, or am I just going to have to keep having them filled with air every two months, or what? You'll find that in your owner's manual it says to check the tyre pressures every couple of weeks. The tyres don't just take care of themselves, they are not maintenance free. The TPMS is working fine, the tyres are fine, don't be lazy and check your pressures once in a while.
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Feb 12, 2013 20:06
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redreader posted:Hi! Also noone has mentioned that CV joints/boots have absolutely nothing to do with the struts/shocks at all. The shocks are part of the suspension, they affect ride and handling. The CV joints transfer power from the engine to the front wheels. They are physically connected through a couple of intermediate parts, but one never affects the other unless the car is in a very severe accident. edit: VVVVV whoops, sorry! Slavvy fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Feb 13, 2013 |
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Feb 13, 2013 07:20
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