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We've got a 2004 Chevy Express G1500 4.3l work van that won't set the evap or catalytic monitors on a drive cycle and isn't throwing any trouble codes either. The other 3 monitors will set, and we need just one of these to set for smog ck. The drive cycle conditions have been met, but the monitors simply will not set for some stupid reason that escapes us. Thought it might be the summer desert ambient temperature preventing it from setting, so we took it on an early morning drive before it got real hot outside and still nothing. Replaced & reprogrammed the ECU and still no codes and the same two monitors refuse to set. Posted on ask-a-tech too, but I figure AI can take a crack at it.
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Jul 6, 2012 17:21
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nwin posted:I need to get some new tires for my wife's CR-V. Is tire rack still the best place to go through? This is how I buy tires. Call around to all the tire dealers, and whatever price they give you, take $10-$20 off that and write it down. Make sure to include mounting & balancing fees if you don't have access to a rim clamp/balancer. Walk in to the place that gives you the lowest price, but modify your price notes so that they are 2nd or 3rd lowest. Tell the register jockey that bumblefuck tire across town has quoted you a better price, but you think the service here is better, so if they can beat that price you'll buy two tires, and if they can really beat that price you'll buy four. If you have organized notes written down they will never question you, and they will always come down on price if you play hardball. What the gently caress is tire rack? Edit- I googled it. Just for shiggles I looked up my wife's Malibu. Not counting shipping charges, the hankooks I picked up via this method were about $30 less than what tire rack quoted me. This might be a good option if you aren't comfortable negotiating and want the convenience of tires delivered from the internet, but you can do better if you're willing to put in some leg work. DrPain fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Jul 11, 2012 |
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Jul 11, 2012 17:16
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I recently snapped up a 1990 4 runner and among other minor repairable problems, the speedo has been a nagging thorn in my side. When it says I'm doing 50, my GPS says 42, a 16% discrepancy. The tires and speedo gear are the correct size, much to my dismay. My current theory is the differential gear ratio has been adjusted at some point for whatever stupid reason, and that's not something I'd like to gently caress around with. Bigger gears turn slower, so I would need to find a speedo gear that is 16% bigger to effectively fix the problem, right? 20 or 21 teeth by my count.
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Jul 12, 2012 16:43
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DerDestroyer posted:How come Nissan's CVTs get so much bad press? Because repairs are stupid expensive and Nissan extended the warranty to keep people loyal to the brand rather than trading in versus the cost of repairs.
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Jul 12, 2012 19:47
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Proprietary technology is never cheap because they must recoup the R&D costs.
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Jul 12, 2012 20:20
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DrPain posted:I recently snapped up a 1990 4 runner and among other minor repairable problems, the speedo has been a nagging thorn in my side. When it says I'm doing 50, my GPS says 42, a 16% discrepancy. The tires and speedo gear are the correct size, much to my dismay. My current theory is the differential gear ratio has been adjusted at some point for whatever stupid reason, and that's not something I'd like to gently caress around with. So to answer my own question, the rear differential came off a 4cyl 4runner and therefore has a lower gear ratio. Ordered the matching speedo gear for a 4cyl, and now I can take off from a dead stop in first gear! You have no idea how happy I am right now. Now of course the looming question is did the front differential get swapped as well, and will my 4wd work???
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Jul 13, 2012 19:45
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Extended warranties are carefully constructed to gently caress both the customer who bought it and the mechanic performing the repair as hard as legally possible. Put the money into a maintenance saving acct.
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Jul 16, 2012 19:15
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Colonel J posted:I need your help AI, can you indentify what in my car is producing this horrible sound? When was the last time you had your brakes checked?
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Jul 17, 2012 17:56
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Colonel J posted:I honestly have no idea; my parents gave me the car and I haven't had much done on it. Should I try slamming on the brakes as hard as I can? No, please don't. Was the car on any long downhill trips recently? My guess is you've heat cracked or otherwise worn down one or more brake pads and the horrible sound you hear is the metal backing of the pad grinding on the rotor. The rotor can hopefully be machined and reused, but you will at least need new pads if I'm right. Either way, get your brakes checked. Please call a tow truck. legsarerequired posted:I'm a first-time car owner and I'm trying to familiarize myself with what maintenance my vehicle needs, how to identify parts under the hood, etc. Google is telling me that there's lots of websites with definitions and guides, but I'm hoping to find one organized website I can rely on, preferably something that will give me reminders. I'm driving a 2011 Toyota Yaris, and it has 30,000 miles. Any suggestions? Did it come with an owners manual? DrPain fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jul 17, 2012 |
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Jul 17, 2012 18:25
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Safety Dance posted:Have you tried removing the negative battery cable, then pressing the brake pedal for 30 seconds or so? Similarly, remove both battery cable ends and touch them to a ground wire for several seconds. This should reset all electrical systems on the vehicle. If you need it to pass smog, do that first because your drive cycle monitors will also be reset.
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Jul 17, 2012 21:08
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eightysixed posted:My girlfriend had a really corroded battery. Long story short, it ended up being replaced. Now, 2 months later, it's starting to heavily corrode again? You didn't buy interstate? Someone is adding non-distilled water to the battery?
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Jul 18, 2012 21:04
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We're installing a heavy duty EGR cooler on a 6L Ford diesel. May or may not also be replacing the headgasket. Worth starting a thread over?
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Jul 19, 2012 18:45
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Motronic posted:So you're doing a basic 6L tuneup. Found a kit that comes with a new air oil cooler too. Radiator was bone dry, so I hope you're right. FogHelmut posted:I have a quote from a shop to drop the pan, change the transmission fluid, filter, and gasket for $230. It's a 2008 Chevy Cobalt, synthetic fluid. That's factory scheduled maintenance at 50k, and the price does not sound unreasonable either.
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Jul 19, 2012 20:47
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Motronic posted:Ick. Well, I should have qualified that with "if you caught it in time." There's still hope....but that's a bit different than the typical scenario I've come across where it's just starting to go and things are milkshakey but not running 50/50 coolant and oil in the sump and no coolant in the radiator. Truck has 80k on it, and my research tells me the stock EGR cooler is usually good for the first 50k. It's a work truck with a small crane, compressor, and welding rig mounted on the back, so my thought is even though it's not a ton of miles, it may have been ran for who knows how many hours at job sites to power the accessories. At least it's not a rush job... 
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Jul 19, 2012 21:37
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Totally TWISTED posted:Anyone? Here's the problem with sourcing your own parts, it's a pain in the rear end. You could order everything you need from the dealer off the VIN. This will ensure that you have the right parts, but will be more expensive. You could try and save some bucks and go aftermarket, but there's a chance the part will not fit for a number of dumb cost cutting reasons. Then it's your responsibility to return the part and source the correct one. I'm assuming you would be shopping amazon or some other online parts house for deals, because if anyone in town had it, odds are your mechanic has an account with them, and returning poo poo you bought online sucks because return shipping and long waits. On top of all that, you are wrecking hell on the shop's profitability when you source your own parts and therefore become a last priority job. Would you bring your own steak to a steakhouse and ask them to throw it on their grill? This is how I feel about customer sourced parts. $600 for a complete A/C system is a bargain, do not put yourself on your mechanic's shitlist over $600. DrPain fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Jul 20, 2012 |
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Jul 20, 2012 16:06
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Doomsday Jesus posted:Is there a real concern buying a used vehicle from a large dealership, not some independent, that has over 100,000 miles if the Carfax is clean? Depends on the car and how the previous owners felt about maintenance. A well maintained Corolla is just getting warmed up at 100k. A poorly maintained Neon will be ready for the scrap yard at 100k.
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Jul 20, 2012 21:39
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Harry posted:This is exactly what I was looking for, thanks! I live in Dallas so driving in the snow isn't really a concern. Are you still supposed to replace all 4 tires at once, or would I be fine just replacing the front 2? The back ones are in really great shape, but the front ones look like I'll experience a blowout any second. It's okay to buy 2 tires, just get something comparable to the ones you'll be saving. DrPain fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 19:10
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reflex posted:It's every 3-4 months now. And I'm paying cash. Ask your mechanic about cash discounts. Especially if you're seeing the same one every 3 months.
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Aug 1, 2012 23:32
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Loucks posted:Just got back from having the 7500mi service done at the dealership. They insist that although Kia's service interval for oil is 7500mi I should give them money for an oil change every 3750mi because "7500 is way too long." I told them that was nonsense. I am 99.8% certain that I am correct. Can someone who knows more than I do supply the other .2%? The car is a base model '12 Kia Soul, although I doubt that matters. Synthetic oil will last 7500mi at least, but I wouldn't ever trust the same oil filter to do it's job for that long, so I can see what they're trying to say. I've never driven anything but old beaters and I check all my boots, belts, hoses, fluids, etc, with each regular oil change, but on a new car that should be less of a concern. Does your car have an oil life gauge? Those are pretty accurate. I let my wife's chevy go till her oil life gauge reads 49% then get it in for service. Usually about every 4000-ish miles. Not a ton of experience with Kia though, so take that as you will. If the majority of your miles come on the freeway that will also give you better oil life versus stop and go city traffic.
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Aug 3, 2012 16:16
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Rhyno posted:She also brakes with her left foot  Make her drive a manual. Early 90s if possible.
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Aug 15, 2012 16:28
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MikeyTsi posted:Take it in. It will eventually start leaking or cause more damage. Looks light you might even be able to plug it instead of buying a new one. Maybe. Re: Brakes. I'm not a fan of just slapping new pads on. Find someone with a lathe and get your rotors turned.
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Aug 15, 2012 22:37
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Raw_Beef posted:I'm pricing out what i need to open a one man one lift general service shop. I've got most things i need within the budget, but the cost of a brake lathe is amazing. We turn all the rotors all the times. Even on new rotors, we turn them to ensure any factory defect/warping doesn't make it onto the vehicle. Most bendix pads come with the blue anti-squeak compound and economy rotors will last at least 30k miles with this setup. We turn the rotors while we do other things, and charge 1.3 hours per axle. Probably one of the easiest money jobs we do. I might be alone on this one, but the lathe is probably worth picking up.
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Aug 16, 2012 19:38
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babies havin rabies posted:I'm a stupid new MT driver with a stupid question. I've only been driving a stick for about 600 miles. No, but you should really be in 2nd gear at a stop with your revs up ready to pop the clutch and burnout like a boss. Don't do this 
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Aug 16, 2012 22:13
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Get an estimate to R&R the tranny. Subtract that figure from the sale price in fair condition.
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Aug 21, 2012 20:56
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MMD3 posted:I guess we'll be giving the car away for free then! Nah. Even if it took 10 hours (book time is 8.1) at $100 per, you're still only looking at a cool grand in labor. Can't imagine the part itself is that obscenely expensive. Call the dealer for the part, that's what the shop you call is going to do anyway unless they can find one from salvage. Also see if you can buff out any of the body damage. If your ladyfriend isn't loving known as "Crash" then you're Doing It Wrongtm.
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Aug 21, 2012 21:20
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I am not a fan, and I do not endorse their practices otherwise, but Autozone will scan your codes for free*. *and then try to sell you something you don't need
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Aug 22, 2012 17:02
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I have a stupid question about engine swaps. How do you get them to pass smog, and do you also swap/reprogram the computer controlled modules?
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Aug 23, 2012 00:49
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Ozmiander posted:You generally keep their original computers. What about emission inspection? Register it in a state that doesn't give a gently caress? I guess? I want to do stupid things.
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Aug 23, 2012 01:31
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Petey posted:Thanks! Is there a good way to find these things out? Other than once replacing the brakes with help from RockAuto, I've never really done anything with this car. If it's as simple as removing and cleaning something, though, I'd rather do that myself then pay someone if at all possible. It's behind the glove, and since I'm a fan of your effort posting, I don't mind effort posting for you. Open the glove, it's on plastic hinges that should pop free easily, then do this. Identifying blower motor components.   Fig6 Removing lower member  Fig7 Removing blower relays  Fig8 Removing blower from vehicle  See if you got some leaves in there. Check the ducts too. 
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Aug 27, 2012 21:01
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Personally, I would see about pawning the suit and driving something better.
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Aug 29, 2012 18:53
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MrSaturn posted:This is stupid, and tangentially automotive, so I'm hoping you That sounds like every/any credit union, and yes they are awesome. Use this to find one near you: http://culookup.com/
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Aug 31, 2012 19:37
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Scrot Eel posted:Anyone know when the new Ford Fusions and Honda Accords are hitting dealerships? Did you try calling your dealership?
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Sep 5, 2012 22:53
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Petey posted:Some of you may recall me posting a week or so ago reporting a strange muffled noise coming from my AC and no air coming through the fans. A few folks suggested there might be debris in my blower and gave me instructions on how to remove it. I finally found the time to do it today. That didn't burn out the blower? You go to the nearest casino right now with that luck.
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Sep 6, 2012 16:49
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Petey posted:My current theory is that in the two days I had it parked with its nose on a hill a mouse or something tried to make a home inside my AC. No I have no idea how that would have worked. But I can't imagine it was running at 75% of this for a long time before it got a few extra leaves which stopped it. And after it started being muffled I only ran it a handful of times.  Aww shucks, your d&d threads really get my pro supply side economics dad in law fired up. Was the least I could do.
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Sep 6, 2012 17:16
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Corte posted:I live in Canada and drive a Hyundai 2007 Santa Fe and have been getting regular maintenance and any work needed done at a dealership. When I got regular maintenance done on March 19 they recommended this work be done: Fluid flushes are mostly bullshit sold by mechanics who see a car once and don't expect to do any further work in the future. In your case, they want to extract as much money from you as possible and come up with all kinds of "magic beans" crap work that you don't need. Frankly, I'm surprised they didn't want to replace your brake lines and calipers while they were writing up that bullshit. Dealerships have salespeople on the lot, and also behind the service counter. Always get a 2nd opinion. Question everything. You might have got lucky with the 2nd dealership, but my gut tells me they gave you a fair estimate this time to gain your trust, with the expectation that they can stick it to you in the future. Some garages pay mechanics a commission on parts in addition to labor, which puts an incentive to sell unnecessary work. DrPain fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Sep 11, 2012 |
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Sep 11, 2012 18:43
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Splizwarf posted:What? Brake fluid's supposed to be changed every two years as a general rule, so he should've had at least two already. It's not a "lifetime" product. Brake fluid lives in a sealed environment. Unless you've got the master cyl cap off and some poo poo gets in there, or you're installing new wheel cyls or otherwise have the system open, why in the world would you flush it? Corte posted:That's my hunch as well. The trouble is this is a family vehicle and in the past I've always been instructed to do whatever the dealership suggests. I'm wondering what the best route for maintaining the vehicle is, should I stick with the dealership service schedule but get a second opinion or not bother with the dealership and its service schedule at all? I'm definitely going to be more aggressive in questioning recommendations in the future and definitely will get a second opinion. Who is paying for the maintenance and why do they have a boner for dealer "certified" (overpriced) service? Find a local independent garage and you will be much better off. Most of these garages don't advertise and rely on positive word of mouth to drive sales, and therefore do necessary work at a fair price.
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Sep 11, 2012 19:09
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Fine. Change your brake fluid as often as you like.
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Sep 11, 2012 19:22
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some texas redneck posted:Anyone remember the ABS issue mom's Avalon is having? No? Okay, she's been telling me the ABS light flickers sometimes. If it's a dying module, check out http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php We sub all the ABS modules that can be repaired to them. New modules are somewhere in the price range between "holy poo poo" and "are you loving kidding". Module master repairs them for around $150 bux, and the turnaround time is real fast from Moscow, ID. edit- Derp they don't work on toyota modules. Sucks.
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Sep 19, 2012 16:30
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Xarthor posted:My buddy (no really, my buddy, not me) is interested in the Chevy Volt. I read on some auto blog a few months ago that Chevy is giving insane deals on the Volt right now because it's doing so poorly and they're losing money on every Volt that rolls off the line, and I'm wondering if any of you know any specifics? They're prone to spontaneous combustion and he'll never be able to sell it once it's out of warranty for anywhere near a fair price. Also any non-warrantied maintenance involving the hybrid system will be stupid expensive. So sock away that money he's saving in fuel for repairs, because he's going to need it and then some. Just get a gasoline Cruze. edit- Also by purchasing a Volt he is validating the "DURR I FORGOT HOW TO PUT GAS IN MY CAR  " ad campaign.
DrPain fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Sep 19, 2012 |
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Sep 19, 2012 16:42
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I would be more concerned about the strawberry milkshake on that runner than any rust issues. Speaking of which, does anybody know if the 2.7l version suffered from the milkshake, or was it only the 3.4l?
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Sep 20, 2012 23:29
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