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two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
I replaced the power steering pump in my brother's girlfriend's 98 Buick Century Limited and when I topped off the reservoir and started the car the power steering worked fine. After turning the car off for a while we went back out to it and it didn't work anymore but I figured that there is air in the system because the steering fluid is foamy. Would air in the system cause the power steering to not work? I'm about to go over to her place and bleed the system but I'd like to know if anyone thinks it'll work.

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two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Mad Dragon posted:

You should have filled the reservoir to the top, cycled the steering wheel lock-to-lock a few times with the engine on, and checked level again. Chances are, the level went low. Hopefully, you didn't damage the new pump.

I did do that. After looking at it, it turns out that it's slowly leaking from between the reservoir and the pump which is getting fixed tomorrow so all is well.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Imagined posted:

I have a 98 Ford Taurus with only a radio built into the dash. That section of the dash is one solid piece of molded plastic that also includes the controls for the air conditioner. I desperately want a CD player in this car. I've tried three or four different brands of the radio broadcasters for iPods and portable CD players, but they all completely suck -- at least in this car. They just don't put out a strong enough signal and it's dangerous and annoying to be futzing around with a CD player/iPod on the passenger seat.

Anyway, my question: is it possible to get a CD player in this car, built into the dash? Can car audio places make a custom piece to hold any CD player I want?

Also, I'd really rather not have a used Ford CD player from 1998 (if they even made Taurus's with that option back then).

Do you have the digital climate controls?

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Imagined posted:

No, they're just plastic knobs.

You can get this or this

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Gunjin posted:

Anyone know the oil capacity for a 1998 ford taurus with the base 3 liter SOHC V6? I want to change the oil but the drat thing doesn't have an owners manual.

about 4.5 quarts

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Gunjin posted:

Thanks, thats what I thought it was but I wanted to make sure, never can be too safe where the engine is involved.

Have you done the transmission fluid lately? The AX4S's don't like dirty fluid very much.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Gunjin posted:

Hmm good point, how many quarts does that take. I should probably pick up a Chilton for this drat car.

If you do a full flush, around 14 quarts. If you just pull the pan and filter, I believe it's around 7 or 8 quarts. The chiltons book is handy to have, it's only $15-20 at checker auto.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
Why is an engine block considered a "marine block" besides the fact that it's used for boats? I just bought a 4.3L Vortec V-6 Marine block from a local boat shop so I can make one of those engine tables and after some research I found out that the 4.3L vortec was used in tons of cars.

The suspension on my 97 Taurus needs work but I really don't want to throw a ton of money at it. I know it needs new struts, which is fine, but do springs go bad too?

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
My car is stuck in a parking lot and it won't start.

When I turn the key I hear a click and a whirring sound which I'm pretty sure is the starter not engaging. I bought a new starter and put it on and when I connected the battery again, the starter engaged and as long as the battery is plugged in, the starter is running. I kinda hacked together the connectors with a wiretap because ford in their wisdom decided to change the connectors at some point so I'm not 100% sure it is a solid connection. Could the new (reman) started be shot? I'll be going back to the car tomorrow (it's parked at the airport :( ) so I'd like an idea of what is wrong. Thanks

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Lufiron posted:

Try getting a jump for your car. Sounds like an issue with the battery's state of charge.

Didn't do anything, I tried jumping my battery and I also tried a known good battery.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Adiabatic posted:

Sounds like either the solenoid is bad or you just plain bypassed your starter relay. Check your wiring and cross reference with the starting/charging wiring diagram for your vehicle, and if that checks out try another starter w/ solenoid.

We got it fixed today! The connector from the battery has a 90deg angle on it and the way it was connected it was also contacting the other contact for the solenoid so it was constantly getting power. We put a spacer nut in place and everything is hunky-dorey!

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Turkeybone posted:

Hey everyone. I've got a 2000 Taurus, pushing 90k miles. Recently the parking brake light has been coming on when I stop hard, and staying on for awhile. Now (past few days) it is on almost constantly, sometimes disappearing, but usually coming back when I make a full (even slow, gradual) stop. Any ideas as to what could be causing this? I notice no difference in braking quality, and no, Im not driving with the parking brake on.

How is your brake fluid? My 97 Taurus does this about once a year until I top off the reservoir with fresh fluid.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
I bought a 1985 BMW 325e a few weeks ago and the biggest problem I have with it is that when I press the clutch in, it makes a fairly audible *clunk* unless I jam it in quickly. I've been driving cars with a stick for several years so I'm not exactly new to this, but this is the first one that I've owned and the first car I've ever driven that has made this noise. I'm thinking it's the throwout bearing but this is purely a guess. Any ideas?

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
I'm putting new brakes on my E30 today and I bought some new brake lines while I was at it but I have never done new lines before. Do I need to worry about releasing the pressure in the brake system before I take the hoses off? It's a non-ABS car, if it matters.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Adiabatic posted:

There are some ABS systems out there that run in upwards to 2500 PSI, but those are absent from E30s as far as I know... at any rate if you don't have ABS you also don't have to worry about that garbage. Just please follow the proper bleeding sequence after you install the lines.

Awesome thanks, I just wanted to make sure that when I unhook the line brake fluid isn't going to spray everywhere. I need new fluid anyway, so bleeding was definitely in the plans...

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

coldfire07 posted:

Where can I get that shirt that someone on AI designed?

It's got the turbo with a bunch of arrows coming out of the compressor housing.

Thanks!

http://www.autophile-apparel.com/

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
The battery light in my '85 BMW 325e illuminated today. At a stop, it was bright but when I gave it gas it would dim and the more revs I gave it the more it would dim. Does this indicate a failing alternator? I will have to find my multimeter but it might not happen until tomorrow. The battery was purchased it December so I hope it isn't that...

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

ProjektorBoy posted:

While the symptoms are DEFINITELY indicative of a dying alternator I'd also be curious if you know exactly how old your alternator is. Sometimes it's just time to get a new one in. I'd be surprised if you could start your car after it started doing that. Headlights suck down a whole lot of battery, and you may be in danger of losing all your CCA's.

I have no idea how old the alternator is. I had to stop at the store on my way home and I was inside for 20min or so and when I came out it started just fine. It's snowing like crazy here and the streets are soaked so I don't know if that has anything to do with it, but what's funny is that my mom just called me and told me that the battery light on her '05 chrysler van turned on for about a minute...

Anyway, my car is parked in the heated garage at my apartment so whatever moisture is in there will be gone by the morning and I'll see what's up with the volts and such.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

two_beer_bishes posted:

I have no idea how old the alternator is. I had to stop at the store on my way home and I was inside for 20min or so and when I came out it started just fine. It's snowing like crazy here and the streets are soaked so I don't know if that has anything to do with it, but what's funny is that my mom just called me and told me that the battery light on her '05 chrysler van turned on for about a minute...

Anyway, my car is parked in the heated garage at my apartment so whatever moisture is in there will be gone by the morning and I'll see what's up with the volts and such.

So my brother called me and said he needed to be picked up and being the good guy that I am, I obliged. On the way home my car ran out of electricity and died :(

Looks like tomorrow I get a new alternator :(

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

aksuur posted:

What does rowing mean when referring to a transmission/shifting?

I always thought it referred to the physical action of moving through the gears.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
What is a reasonable price to pay to have 4 tires mounted/balanced? I have the tires already, they just need to go on current wheels.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
Over the past few weeks, my car has been leaking power steering fluid all over my garage, probably upwards of an entire quart :(

I'm going to be moving out in a month and I'd like to clean it up so I don't lose my deposit, what's the best way to clean up such a mess?

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Petekill posted:

Soak up what you can with oil absorber or kitty litter, and sweep that away. If it has left any stains, you can get some concrete-floor cleaner. The stuff we use at the shop works really well, I wish I could remember what it's called. You just mix it up with water, pour it on the stain, and scrub with a broom or something, then hose it off.

Thanks!

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
How can you tell if a tie-rod is trashed?

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
Why can't I ever seem to be able to get an O2 sensor out?

I couldn't on my Taurus, and I can't on my E30 (but I'm able to do timing belts/water pumps/suspension/everything else)?

I have the special socket, I soak it in PB Blaster forever, and I take the torch to it, but in the end I can never get that goddamn thing out. It's the thing I really feel that I need to take it to the shop for! :suicide:

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Artem posted:

I recently bought a 98 Subaru Impreza (my first car), but the model doesn't have AC in it. If I ever get sick of sweatin my bag off, can I install AC in it and how much would it run me?

Your best bet would be to get all the parts from an equipped car at a junkyard. If you end up doing all the work yourself you could probably do this for $300 or less. If you buy new parts and bring it to a shop, I wouldn't be too surprised to see a $1500+ bill.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
What kind of turbo does a stock 2007 WRX have? My brother might be able to get one for ~$100 for either my E30 or his Focus but we want to find out more info before we decide to buy it.

Edit: Wikipedia says it's a Mitsubishi TD04-13T, is that accurate?

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Flashdance posted:

Disclaimer: I don't know poo poo about car repair. I now have both the time and money to do some repairs on my Audi (2001 A4 1.8T) and I had some questions about wheel bearings. When I was at the tire store getting a tire fixed the guy said my wheel bearings were bad and quoted me $1000 to fix them. I know Audis are expensive to fix but come on.

So, first question: I've been looking around at wheel bearing prices and they seem to run about $60-80 depending on where I look - what's the procedure for bringing in your own parts to a repair? Do you go to certain types of shops? I ask because I imagine some of the shops would get pissy because you're hurting their margin.

Second question: I'm looking on the RockAuto site in the FAQ and I see wheel bearings for as low as $6, with ones that cost $88 just a little bit below. Am I not looking at what I think I am or are these cheap knockoffs? I appreciate your help.

Take a look at autohausaz.com

I buy 99% of my BMW parts from there and it looks like they have plenty of Audi stuff also. They generally have OEM parts for the cheapest online.

To answer your question about bringing parts in with you, they'll bitch about it a little but they will do the work. Just know that whatever warranty you get with the repair will not cover the part unless you buy from them.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

ProjektorBoy posted:

Good lord! Those guys are about a five minute drive from my house!

Recently their service has been poo poo :(

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

IOwnCalculus posted:

Really? That's a drat shame, I've had good luck with them, but I haven't had to buy anything from them for a while. They're like 5 minutes from where I work (sup Projektorboy) so I can order online and pick it up on my way home the next day.

Yeah, it's only been the past month or so. I've been ordering from them steadily all year and recently they have been dicking me around with a couple returns. I put my last order through rmeuropean.com partly due to the service at autohaus but mostly because I knew rm had the parts in stock whereas autohaus doesn't tell you, you find out a couple days later when your order still hasn't shipped.

Nah, I'm not pissed or anything :butt:

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
What's an easy way to tell if my exhaust manifolds are leaking? It's an E30 with the M20 engine and I swear sometimes it sounds like I have a turbo.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

destructo posted:

Posting this here because it really IS a retarded question. Those of you running softer summer tires (Azenis, Direzza Star Spec, etc), what's the deepest snow you've driven in with them and how hosed am I in a half inch/inch with RS2's?

Better late than never...

It just snowed in St Paul today, not much, but enough to stick and cover the roads.

I took my E30 with RS2's for a drive today before deciding whether or not to put the snow tires on. It was poo poo. I was sliding everywhere until the tires hit bare pavement and there was less than 1/2 inch. The Blizzaks are going on tomorrow.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
Does anybody know where the plug is for the block heater on a 2007 Mazda 3 with the 2L engine?

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004
What are the best places to get kerosene for heaters? I called a couple hardware stores and it was around $11/gal and $30/5gal, but I've heard of people getting it for closer to $5/gal.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

hippynerd posted:



two_beer_bishes:
Have you tried the big chain stores (lowes, home depot, ...) I think I've gotten it there. I think kerosene is the nastiest way to heat ever. even old wood stoves are cleaner. It might not be so bad in a garage, but rather get more blankets than fire up a kerosene heater in my home.

Lowes and Home Depot had the prices I listed above, but I ended up getting some at Menards for $15 for 2.5gal. Still hoping for a better deal. And yes, it is for my garage heater.


Another questions: What's the easiest way to get a 23 year old freeze plug out? It's an '85 325e for specifics.

two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Dec 27, 2008

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

SpicyMeatSandwich posted:

2 quick questions:

Just bought a car off of a friend (Ford Escort) as my car was about to explode. So far so good, the car is running great and I have noticed almost no problems. One very annoying problem though is this: when at the gas station the gas pump will turn off almost instantly. I called my friend and he states that I will have to find a gas station and a pump where this doesn't occur (apparently a pump with a faulty sensor for the fumes or whatever. Can this be fixed for a reasonable amount of cash or am I doomed to 25 minute fillups?

Try pulling the nozzle out just a little bit. If I have the nozzle all the way in, due to the design of the filler neck, it will do the same thing.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

WolfensteinBag posted:

Ok, I hope I'm in the right place for this, but it's a dumbass question, that'll probably have a very simple answer, so I'm probably good. Let me preface this by saying, I know probably the bare minimum about cars, and just looking at these thread titles alone scares me! So don't laugh too hard at me. :)

I'm just really curious, why does my gas pedal freeze when it's really cold out? It has to be close to single digits, but the thing will completely freeze up. I can drive ok (just close to an idol), and it'll slooowwwwlly start working more as the car warms up. It hasn't caused any real problems, but I just wanted to know why it did this. Is it just that it's freezing and there's nothing I can do about it, or is there something I should be doing to fix it? I know I need a new fuel filter, if that matters. Oh, & my car's an '89 cougar, too, so it's slowly aging and falling apart. :) Thanks!

This happened when I first bought my car. I ended up spraying the throttle body spring with WD40 and it hasn't happened since (over a year ago), even today when the high for the day was -3F.

What engine does your car have? Carbureted?

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

WolfensteinBag posted:

hahaha Didn't you read the part where I said I knew nothing about cars? :) I don't think you understand how far out of my element I am here...

Can you at least tell me how many cylinders? 6 or 8?

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

WolfensteinBag posted:

Pretty sure 6.

Your engine might be similar to this, if not exact (depending on your engine). If this is correct, there should be a spring in the general area that I circled. Try shooting some WD40 on that, or at the very least, move it around by hand to loosen it up. This spring is what pulls back on the gas pedal, it connects to the throttle body (basically a butterfly valve) and it sounds like that (or the cable itself) is whats sticking.

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two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004

Ferremit posted:

Really stupid question here... but what does "WOT" actually mean?

Wide open throttle

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