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So I just got my 2000 4WD Tacoma back after having it loaned to my brother for about 7 years. It's approaching 240K on the odometer but runs well. I have noticed it shifts (MT) pretty hard and clunky when cold and I was thinking that changing the fluid(s) might be a good step to take. I know it had a new clutch put in maybe a year or two back, but I am not sure what sections of the drivetrain would get removed for that and therefor have newer oil. I assume it would be the transfer case or the transmission, but I am not really sure having never messed around with those parts. I also plan to change the oil in the front and rear diffs. I have already changed the plugs, and I want to investigate new shocks as the original ones are pretty shot. The thing rocks like a ship. Any other must do items I need to be aware of?
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Feb 2, 2013 14:37
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KozmoNaut posted:Is there anything I can about an out-of-round tire other than replacing it? I am in no way experienced with this but years ago I read about people with big off-road tires having them shaved to roundness to eliminate that issue. Some machine spins them and a blade takes off the bulges. It removes tread, but makes the tire ride better. Maybe a 4 wheeling shop can do this?
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Feb 2, 2013 21:17
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I don't know if this applies to cars, but on marine diesels you get sediment and water on the bottom of the fuel tank and if a tank gets low enough, you suck it into the engine and it can clog the fuel filter and make the engine stall or run like poo poo. I have no idea what caused the electrical stuff, did you check the fuses?
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Feb 24, 2013 15:04
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My 2004 WRX sometimes is slow to start. It turns over for about 5 seconds before catching, but it only does this about 2x per month. The starter cranks hard, the thing is just slow to catch. The battery is about 3 years old, and as I live in the Mid Atlantic region, I usually get years and years out of a battery. Any other suggestions before I buy a new battery?
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May 8, 2013 23:16
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kastein posted:If it's cranking healthily, it's not the battery, so don't buy one. Thanks, it never throws a code, just slow to catch. Is this a simple repair? I know the gas filter is due for a swap. Maybe related?
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May 9, 2013 01:23
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I'll check the filter, can't hurt either way unless I gently caress it up somehow. Thanks again.
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May 9, 2013 02:11
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So I have changed the fuel filter in my WRX, I'll see how that does for correcting my slow-to-start problem. I disconnected the green plug on the pax side, the car stalled, disconnected the two hoses and swapped it out. I did get a check engine lite after the swap. Torque told me it was a fuel relay issue, I presume from disconnecting it while the car was running? Anyway, I cleared it and the car seems fine, no leaks either.
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May 9, 2013 21:39
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Motronic posted:Full tank of fuel, change the oil when you get back. No big thing. When I used to go to sea for 6-8 months at a time, I asked my father to drive my car every month or so. I still got a massive mice infestation and they took over the blower fan.
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May 10, 2013 23:41
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I splurged for the bosch and now get a slimy film after every wipe. Not happy with their performance on my subarus.
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Jun 26, 2013 18:39
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Yeah, that seems really suspicious. It would be a lot less weird to just remove the plate. You could offer the tow company some cash and maybe get the owners info, but that probably would not lead anywhere useful or productive unless you have proof of some sort. Insurance is for poo poo like this.
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Jul 2, 2013 02:00
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I was rotating my tires and noticed that the outside edge of the tread had some ragged look to it. The pax side was worse and both myself and my wife have slid down the curb at least once on that side. I thought it might be and alignment issue but there is not really any more wear, just a ragged look. Is this just a result of us rubbing the curb?
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Sep 1, 2013 21:39
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CNClab 2021 posted:I put six ounces of seafoam into my motor and the rest of the can into the fuel tank today. The car was warmed up at the time from going to get gas and a measuring cup, but I let it cool at least five minutes. Once it was in I drove aggressively on the expressway as per the website's instructions, but I did not get any white smoke. What gives? Am I just going to blow out a whole bunch of smoke when I get to work in the morning? My understanding was that the smoke amount was directly proportional to how much material the seafoam was reacting with and sending out the exhaust.
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Sep 3, 2013 00:54
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Brother in law has a 97 saab 900 turbo, manual transmission. There is a distinct clunk when you ease off the gas at 15-20 mph. No such clunk when accelerating. It feels like when the weight of the car shifts fwd as engine braking starts, we hear the noise. Any ideas? We were thinking tranny or engine mounts maybe.
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Oct 26, 2013 21:45
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Thanks for the replies on the Saab. New question on my 2000 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L with a manual. I am getting a CEL (P0401 EGR low flow). I did the vacuum check on the EGR valve when the truck was warmed up and it promptly died. I understand this means the EGR is functioning and I should look at the EGR associated Vacuum Switching Valve. Does this sound right? Is there anything else I should look at before removing and testing this part and getting a new one?
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Oct 27, 2013 17:52
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I am still trying to figure out my 2000 Tacoma CEL. It is the P0401 EGR insufficient flow message. I have checked the EGR, the vacuum hoses and removed the Vacuum Switching Valve and confirmed that it does work. I also checked the EGR modulator and it seems intact with no tears in the membrane. Can a VSV fail intermittently? I reset the CEL and it is taking its time returning but I did not really fix anything yet.
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Oct 28, 2013 18:28
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Enigma89 posted:I looked all over Google but can't find anything. It sounds like leaves/debris in the fan. Mice can stash stuff in there.
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Nov 28, 2013 19:58
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I just found out my 2000 4WD Tacoma needs a new rear left leaf spring. The OEM one has cracked. Should I grab one one off Rockauto for ~$200 or go to the junk yard and look there?
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Nov 30, 2013 22:36
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johnny sack posted:I've put all new speakers in my 2006 Dodge Charger. Of course whenever taking door panels and the dash apart, inevitably clips will break. It's as if they're designed specifically to break and then rattle even after you properly replace them with the other exact correct clip. Any ship more than a few months old will have every stateroom filled with little wedges of paper and cardboard to null out rattles and shudders. Truly evil people will remove them and claim they cleaned up the stateroom. It should work fine.
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Dec 4, 2013 18:44
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Tried to swap out my bad leaf spring. Got the truck on jack stands and promptly got gently caress all done as the fasteners are all seized solid. I am not comfortable grinding them off and my impact did nothing to it even after PB soaking. I did round off one bolt and nut for my troubles.
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Dec 8, 2013 14:50
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I would think that simply idling the engine for 30 min would provide enough heat under the hood to thaw everything.
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Dec 10, 2013 18:02
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Oh well. You could siphon it all out and pump in warm to hot replacement stuff. Repeat as needed till it thaws. Or find an underground garage and park it there for a day or so.
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Dec 10, 2013 19:21
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I had ice off a car shatter my windshield a few years ago while driving in NJ. The other driver pulled over, we swapped info and their company paid for my new windshield, no real headaches at all. Obviously state/province may make a difference.
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Dec 23, 2013 13:59
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My folks jeep did something like this, it ended up being a bad connection on the battery. Just smacked the terminal and it would go away for a while, tightening it fixed it for good.
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Dec 24, 2013 14:10
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Quick physics/theory question: I understand turbos are paired with an intercooler to lower the temp of the incoming air because lower temps are better for fuel/air/combustion. If cooler air is better, why do I get lovely mileage in the winter? Is it all due to the winter blends and 10% ethanol?
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Jan 8, 2014 03:19
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My 2000 Toyota truck had an EGR CEL. I went nuts removing every drat part of the system for tests and whatnot, and in the end it was a torn vacuum line. In my research, I came across lots of stories of people chasing EGR troubles that would come and go with months between a CEL.
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Feb 8, 2014 17:47
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Some older cars used the ABS to monitor tire pressure, right? The ABS would sense a tire spinning at a different rpm from the others and infer that the tire was flat. Maybe the other tires are rather worn, and the new one is big enough with that nice new tread that now the car thinks all the others are off or something. How many miles are on the remaining tires?
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Feb 9, 2014 17:25
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Doghouse posted:My 1990 4runner may, unfortunately, be seeing its last days. So I've never really bought a car - my parents got me the 4runner in high school - and I don't have that much money, so I've been just been looking around on Craisgslist. Seems like there are a lot of good deals there, but I don't really have a frame of reference. Have a mechanic you trust take a look at the car you are interested in. Ask the current owner for service records, receipts, etc. Google the model you are looking at for major issues.
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Feb 17, 2014 15:36
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Kind of random question I have here. Like so many WRX owners, I have an accessport which changes some aspect of the way the car's ECU works and results in more power. Is there a thing where people do this with other parts of the car? Say the wiper interval bugs you, or the dome light turns off too fast. Do people mess with this stuff? CAN you mess with this stuff? Is the car's OS in some moon language that only the manufacturer car work with? Seems like as cars are more and more networked with all the features, that a bold owner could customize all sorts of things. Basically, I would love to turn off/on and adjust things I am pretty sure are computer controlled in my car, but I have no idea if that is possible.
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Feb 22, 2014 02:30
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DrPain posted:Reprogramming control modules takes big $$$. Between manufacturer specific proprietary software, time sensitive subscriptions often measured in hours or days, a dedicated machine to run it, and training to know what the gently caress you're doing. I figured it was something not worth messing with. I am however looking forward to the day we will need antivirus software for our cars.  My specific issue is the rear wiper wipes almost constantly, when every 30 seconds or so is fine. I do like that when the car is in reverse, it works constantly. Little stuff like that which would make a car much more enjoyable if you could control them.
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Feb 22, 2014 17:42
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A friend recently changed the thermostat on his early 90s S10 pickup. A few days later it appears he needs a new radiator. I am pretty sure the two issues are related, but cannot say why. No overheating, just lots of coolant suddenly all over under the car. I thought maybe a poor bleed job but honestly don't know. Any ideas?
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Apr 5, 2014 14:50
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Well my friend replaced the radiator. For now the issue seems to be fixed. FWIW, there was no leaking at the thermostat, and it appears to be working correctly. He had the head gaskets already replaced for an earlier overheating issue.
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Apr 6, 2014 02:07
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I am looking to possibly sell my 2000 4wd Tacoma extracab with 243,000 miles. I have never sold a car before and I am doing what I have read to be prudent such as researching current asking prices, what people look for with your model, etc. So far it seems that KBB is very low for Tacoma Values. In my experience buying it was always high. I am looking on cars.com and see lots of similar trucks with asking prices several thousand over KBB excellent condition. Can anyone comment on if this is normal for some cars? For background, I have had the truck since 2001/17,000 miles and these days I just don't drive it much. I have put maybe 2-3K miles in the last 2 years on it, and I figure I might as well cash it out now while it is running and in decent condition. I hope to maybe buy a newer tacoma in a year or three when we have to sell our other older car. Has anyone had to make the decision to sell a running but unneeded although much loved vehicle? Should I bother with doing the brakes and rear shocks for resale value or is that not worth the $$?
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Jan 26, 2015 15:04
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My 04 wrx with 5 speed manual has a smell that comes from the vents. The clutch is 3000 miles new, as is the flywheel. The smell shows up when the car is warm and the car is stopped. The smell to me smells like burning clutch but it shows up even if I baby it. The smell is stronger the faster I drive. The wheels/brakes are not hot and the smell only comes through the vents, I cant smell it outside the car at all. I have looked several times and tightened everything I can see and see no signs of a leak of anything. I thought it might be oil dripping on the exhaust, but see no smoke and the smell only comes through the vents. Other than this issue the car drives great, the clutch grabs well, acceleration is good, etc. The mechanic is going to look at when I can afford to loan out the car but that is a few weeks away. Any ideas anyone?
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Feb 5, 2015 18:26
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Rontalvos posted:In my 2000 2.5L manual Subaru Outback wagon I've got this strange rattling sound coming through the firewall. In 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear when the RPMs are above 3k and the gas pedal is 1/2 depressed or more, it sounds like somebody is rattling a marble inside a plastic cup down below the pedals. Only happens during acceleration under those conditions. First thought is exhaust heat shield. They migrate out of position and make a clattering noise.
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Feb 5, 2015 22:27
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Mister Kingdom posted:No, it doesn't. Until it causes performance problems (and it hasn't in the two years I've had it), I'm gonna let it go. I had an egr issue that drove me batty on my 2000 tacoma. It ended up being a cracked vaccuum hose. There are some simple tests you can do to see if the egr is bad or something else associated with the system. If no emissions though let it go unless your mileage goes to poo poo.
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Feb 7, 2015 19:33
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