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In trying to get my 1985 Honda CRX Si ready to be looked at by potential buyers tomorrow, I started it up (it's been a few weeks, and the car has only been run sparingly the past year) and it ran fine until it got warmed up. The idle dropped from 2k to 1k like it always does, but it began bobbing from 1000 to 1200, then would sound like it died, then would catch at 1000 and then repeat the cycle. I gave it a little blip of gas to fix this problem it's always had. It didn't fix it so I gave it a bit of gas, up to about 3k rpm for like 5-10 seconds. I then heard a small clunk noise, the PGM-FI (fuel injection CEL) light came on and then it died and I haven't gotten it to start since. The CEL has been on and off intermittently for the past few months, it would come on when the car warmed up and then would turn off a minute or two later, and I thought nothing of it. It cranks and sparks just fine, but it never catches and just cranks away. After a prologed period of trying to fiddle with it and get it started the oil now smells a little like gas, but not enough that I'm ready to say I blew a piston ring. Help? Edit: Ok if I let it sit about a half hour, it'll barely start, run fine until it warms up, and then die. Repeat. Rontalvos fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Feb 6, 2010 |
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Feb 5, 2010 23:58
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Leperflesh posted:How old is the gas in the tank? You can see where I'm going here, but it's just an idea... The gas is probably like 9 months old. My father had the same idea and we added fuel stabilizer and then a few gallons of fresh gas. Now it will run OK and then buck wildly in any/all gears, lose power randomly, have to be bump started off 1st gear, then we'll come to a stop sign and it'll die and then start with the key normally just fine sometimes. We think it's bad gas too, and that's what I'm gonna tell any potential suitor tomorrow. I'm ready to wash my hands of this poor little car and let somebody else give it the Rontalvos fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Feb 6, 2010 |
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Feb 6, 2010 02:17
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Splizwarf posted:Couldn't you airgun down the lugnuts tight enough to warp a rotor enough to cause a dragging brake? That'll make your alignment feel good and hosed. Holy crap. Could this be why my 99 Chevy 2 door Tahoe has always has a pulsating brake pedal and kind of slowly lurches to a stop (very subtly) for the entire time I've driven it? I've done the brakes myself on my car and countless others, and i've always put the wheels back on with an airgun. Every set of brakes I've put on my truck for the past 6 years have done this. Pads and rotors swapped and turned and it's always done this. Please tell me this is the source of my endless frustration.
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Feb 9, 2010 03:43
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I need to replace the heater blend door actuator on my 1999 2-door Chevy Tahoe with the 5.7l gas V8, 4x4. Rockauto lists 3 parts, $34, $43, $49. The image on the site of all 3 parts is nearly the same, but the descriptions are slightly different. How do I choose? Some other sites list only one part but they want $50 or so for it, should I go to GM and get their part number for it and then compare that to the online places?
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Sep 25, 2010 11:51
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Is switching to synthetic oil on a 1999 Chevy Tahoe with the 5.7L gas engine and 120k miles a bad idea? I've only ever run yellow bottle penzoil but the benefits of synthetic seem to be numerous and if I can find it on sale it should be almost the same price. Also, can I use synthetic to top off my engine if it has dino oil in it now? I've got a few bottles of random oil in my garage but I'm out of 5w-30 dino and it's a little low.
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Dec 30, 2010 22:11
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Does anybody have any resources to do research on late 70's through early 90's diesel Mercedes cars? I'm considering getting rid of my 99 Chevy Tahoe when I move to L.A. in the fall and I want a car with better mileage. (I get like 14/17, the diesel Mercs tend to get like 26/32ish apparently) Also the idea of running on waste vegetable oil/biodiesel appeals to the tree hugger inside me, and because I'm an environmental protection major. I know a 'conversion kit' runs around $1000-1500 but some people report they aren't even necessary in the older Benzes. I have a motorcycle as well so it won't be my ONLY form of transportation if something goes awry. What kind of mechanical nightmare will I be getting myself into by purchasing a 25 year old Mercedes?
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Feb 7, 2011 10:40
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DeceasedHorse posted:That would certainly be much more doable financially, I had just gotten the impression from my admittedly limited reading on the internet (always a reliable source, for that matter) that I would either be unable to pass the CA smog test or that they would somehow be able to tell that I had an aftermarket converter and I would not be able to get my car registered and/or pass the smog test, so I was hoping that people who knew more about cars or about CA's driving laws would be able to confirm or deny this-if I could just drive to Nevada and buy an aftermarket one for a third of the price and still legally drive come July that would be fine with me. I would say go find a more trustworthy shop and get a second opinion. I have never head of having to buy a catalytic from the dealership. Ever. And I've lived in California all my life. Whenever one of my dads cars failed smog because of a dead cat he just took it to an exhaust shop and had a new one put on. Shop around and report back, this can't be right.
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Feb 8, 2011 22:47
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My best friend has a 2001 V6 Ford Mustang and suddenly the airbag light is blinking an error code. It looks like 3 blinks, short pause, 3 blinks, then long pause. We're guessing this is a 33. From poking around on the internet, there was mention of the airbag light being triggered by the battery being under 8 volts, which happened when his battery finally completely died, and then it was replaced a month ago. The light started appearing around that time and after he replaced the battery it's been intermittent. I've found reference to code 33 being "passenger air bag - open circuit or high resistance" but I've found no info on what to do or how to troubleshoot this.
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Mar 21, 2011 02:18
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I just bought a 2000 Subaru Outback wagon,118k miles on the 2.5L engine with 5-speed trans, everything is great except for an engine noise. When driving it at higher than 3.5kish rpms, if I floor it the gas pedal then I hear a noise that isounds like a belt squealing. It can't be replicated at idle and it seems to only be possible while the engine is under load while driving at higher rpms. It sounds like the scraping/squeal that all late 90s-early 00's Honda civic engines make while under load. I want to make sure this isn't catastrophic before I drive it 4 hours home. Any thoughts?
Rontalvos fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Apr 22, 2011 |
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Apr 22, 2011 06:10
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Car: 2000 Subaru Outback with the 2.5L engine and 5-speed trans When at a stoplight, I sit with the clutch pedal out (clutch engaged) and the transmission in neutral. When the light turns green, I push the pedal to the floor, and then put the transmission in first. If I do the whole thing quickly (under 1 sec) then I get a grinding noise coming from the trans. If I do it more slowly then there's no grinding noise. Is the synchro on 1st shot? I feel like it also does it in 3rd if I don't rev match closely but it's hard to tell the dogs grinding versus just the mechanics of the transmission.
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May 6, 2011 23:32
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some texas redneck posted:Is it difficult to shift? Ever? If so, that would point to either your clutch not disengaging fully for some reason or a bad throwout bearing. Never a problem shifting, just the peculiar grinding noise if I throw it into first too fast. Even when it grinds throwing it into first it's not difficult at all, just noisy. I might have to give it an extra pull or two to get it into reverse but I've never driven a manual that didn't do that. I've only had this car for about a month, but I am competent and have a haynes manual. Now to figure out how to check the gear oil.
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May 7, 2011 00:33
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Hughmoris posted:I am trying to remove the brake caliper on a 1989 GMC Suburban 2WD, and I think it is a torx bit of some sort but I can't get a good look at it. My google-fu is failing to tell me what size bit I need to remove it, anyone know? I am 99% sure it's a 3/8ths inch hex/allen. my 95 suburban and 99 tahoe are the same body style as your 89 suburban and they were both that size.
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Jun 15, 2011 05:35
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Iron Squid posted:Thanks! The engine makes more power at higher rpms, but you'll be less fuel efficient if you rev it that high all the time. Why would they be there if they weren't for use?
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Jun 15, 2011 05:47
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Is it inherently unsafe to put a car completely up on jack stands if I'm not going to be crawling under it? I have a subaru outback that has a terrible clunking/loud banging in the tiny drum brake within the rear disc brakes that the parking brake pulls on, if the brake is pulled and I'm still moving forward even ever so slightly. I've taken it apart before but have yet to find the issue, I was gonna throw the AWD car up on four stands and take the back wheels off to observe what is making that godawful banging. Good idea/bad idea?
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Jun 15, 2011 11:24
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My mom's 2006 Honda Civic EX automatic is experiencing some abnormal tire wear on the back axle.   These tires are firestone GT somethings and have 30k miles on them. What would cause this huge amount of wear on the inside of the tires. What is causing this huge amount of negative camber on a civic daily driven by an elementary school teacher? (Don't worry, the car is in the garage until the tire shop gets the new tires in.)
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Jul 1, 2011 01:10
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Piano posted:Under-inflation, maybe. That camber doesn't look particularly crazy from those angles. If there's not enough air, the tire will wear 'naturally' on the side that is bearing more weight. The tires have been properly inflated, checked regularly, for the life of the tires. The camber is off enough that you can see it if you look down the side of the car, and look at the right tire, it's bald in from the inside to the middle , and down to the cords on the inside, and there is still tread on the outside of the tire. You can't tell me that's normal.
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Jul 1, 2011 01:54
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dissss posted:I'd be looking at toe before camber. A bit of negative camber is normal on Hondas, thats just how the suspension works and it shouldn't cause undue wear unless you're in the habit of carrying a bunch of weight (check the boot for anvils maybe?) This is the rear axle. I didn't think the rear axle on a FWD car had any toe-in. My mom's husband is a whiz at computers but knows little about cars, at my insistance he diligently checks the oil and tire pressure but somehow this hilarious amount of wear went unnoticed until yesterday. Edit: The gap between the tire and the fender looks smaller than it ought to, would bad shocks cause the independent rear suspension to sit low enough that it would cause additional camber and increased tire wear like this?
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Jul 1, 2011 02:20
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The car has 62k miles on it I think. I hate finding a mechanic, this is why I do all my own car repairs but an alignment is way out of my league. Fffuuu.
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Jul 1, 2011 02:40
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Sponge! posted:And eleventy thousand percent more "Jesus! gently caress! Static!" when you step out of it and go to close the door. Ok what? How do harder tires give you more static discharge?
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Jul 2, 2011 09:59
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In my 2000 2.5L manual Subaru Outback wagon I've got this strange rattling sound coming through the firewall. In 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear when the RPMs are above 3k and the gas pedal is 1/2 depressed or more, it sounds like somebody is rattling a marble inside a plastic cup down below the pedals. Only happens during acceleration under those conditions. At first I thought "weird sound during high throttle, predetination?" but I just put in a full tank of 91 octane and the noise is the same. I can try to get audio of it tonight but it's been happening for about 2 weeks now and the car behaves normally otherwise.
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Feb 5, 2015 21:36
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