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powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
Gotta keep in mind that the LSR 305 have a way bigger cabinet than the Edifiers and that cabinet volume does make a difference to response. The third party measure responses I've found for both look like they both have very similar 6db down points — the edifiers bass drops off really early for an 8" sub and the have a high sub/satellite crossover. Placement flexibility with the sub can gain you some room reinforcement I'd think, but with the high crossover could be annoying (though I'm sure the OPs current speakers are even worse in that regard so it'd still be an improvement.)

The Edifiers are a lot more desk space friendly though, and either is going to sound way better than the OP's current speakers. At this pricepoint I'd rather have that money in better mains than split between that and a tiny sub, but that's up to you. They both looks like they measure well.

I'd also note that the amplifiers in the LSR 305s, and a lot of monitors like them, have a hiss to them that makes some people crazy and some people don't even notice. When I had a set it wasn't a big deal as it didn't really get above the ambient noise of the room unless I was close, but if they'd been closer in a quieter room I could see it being annoying.

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BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

Fozzy The Bear posted:

Edifier is a computer speaker brand, it comes with a 3.5mm cable....

Any $200 sub, by definition is "a lovely sub" I don't know how you could make something quality at that price point

You can get nice used subs for $200

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

BigFactory posted:

You can get nice used subs for $200

The conversation is about brand new equipment.

e: idk, even used, a I wouldn't call a $200 sub "nice"

e: ok, I looked it up, you can get something like a JBL PSW-1000 or Klipsch KSW12 for <$200

Fozzy The Bear fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Jun 19, 2023

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

Fozzy The Bear posted:

The conversation is about brand new equipment.

e: idk, even used, a I wouldn't call a $200 sub "nice"

Why? I don’t know why anyone would buy new audio gear when there’s so much used out there. It’s wasteful

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

BigFactory posted:

Why? I don’t know why anyone would buy new audio gear when there’s so much used out there. It’s wasteful

I agree 100%

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Agreed, just keep an eye on marketplace or wtvr and can get some insane deals. I picked up a pair of infinity IL60s for $150, absolute bangers.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Fozzy The Bear posted:

Edifier is a computer speaker brand, it comes with a 3.5mm cable....

Any $200 sub, by definition is "a lovely sub" I don't know how you could make something quality at that price point

In the same way that any powered $150 speaker is by definition a lovely speaker.

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

bird with big dick posted:

In the same way that any powered $150 speaker is by definition a lovely speaker.

Not disagreeing with that.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Fozzy The Bear posted:

Edifier is a computer speaker brand, it comes with a 3.5mm cable....

Any $200 sub, by definition is "a lovely sub" I don't know how you could make something quality at that price point

The Presonus Eris Sub8 is ~$200 and by all accounts a pretty decent sub, within the limitations of a ported design with an 8" driver. It's got the proper controls for phase and LPF, balanced in/outputs and a built-in 80Hz HPF for satellite speakers.

I've considered getting one in combination with a set of Eris E3.5s or E4.5s for my desk setup.

KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Jun 19, 2023

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

KozmoNaut posted:

The Presonus Eris Sub8 is ~$200 and by all accounts a pretty decent sub, within the limitations of a ported design with an 8" driver. It's got the proper controls for phase and LPF, balanced in/outputs and a built-in 80Hz HPF for satellite speakers.

I've considered getting one in combination with a set of Eris E3.5s or E4.5s for my desk setup.

I'm sure it would sound good for that price point.

If it was my money, just like powderific said, I personally would put my money towards two better quality front main speakers, versus splitting the money on a sub and 2 speaker. You might get a few db less bass, but the rest of the audio should be much improved.

Sounds is very subjective, that is just my personal preference.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Going with a sub+smaller mains lets you fit good sound into a smaller area. I can't really fit a set of 305Ps* (never mind 306Ps or something even bigger) on my desk, but a set of smaller speakers plus a sub lets me get the sub-50Hz response of the larger speakers in a more flexible footprint.

Given unlimited space, yeah I'd just get the larger speakers and maybe add a sub later.

*The sat+sub Presonus setup would be more expensive that the JBLs, so it's not the exact same budget being split three ways instead of two.

KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Jun 19, 2023

Saukkis
May 16, 2003

Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

KozmoNaut posted:

Given unlimited space, yeah I'd just get the larger speakers and maybe add a sub later.

Do you have alternative options for the desk? Shelves on the wall for the speakers, or speaker stands.

Mr Interweb
Aug 25, 2004

wait, so unless you have a really good subwoofer, it's better to spend the same amount on just a good 2.0 system instead?

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer
This is a matter of person preference to a degree. That’s what I think, but bird with a big dick disagrees.

Edit: like, super simplistically if all your money is going to the mains they’ll be nicer than if you’re splitting that money between the mains and a sub. But at the speaker sizes/prices we’re looking at here there’s only so much low end thump you’re gonna get and a little cheap sub might have some extra oomph. Something like the LSR 305 still has bass that I think is satisfying on its own, with an added advantage that you could add a beefier sub down the road. But if you don’t wanna keep putting money in and you like the sub with your current speakers you might miss that and prefer the edifier set.

My home system is a set of 5” woofer bookshelf speakers and a big-ish sub and the sub is amazing and I love it.

powderific fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Jun 20, 2023

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Saukkis posted:

Do you have alternative options for the desk? Shelves on the wall for the speakers, or speaker stands.

Unfortunately not. It's a 50m² apartment, so the desk is in the bedroom, where the bed kinda takes priority for placement.

Saukkis
May 16, 2003

Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

KozmoNaut posted:

Unfortunately not. It's a 50m² apartment, so the desk is in the bedroom, where the bed kinda takes priority for placement.

I meant do you need to put the speakers on the desk that limits their size? Bolt the speakers on the wall or put them on stands. I think it's also considered better acoustically to lift the speakers above the desk.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
put the speakers in your butt

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Saukkis posted:

I meant do you need to put the speakers on the desk that limits their size? Bolt the speakers on the wall or put them on stands. I think it's also considered better acoustically to lift the speakers above the desk.

It's right against the wall and other furniture. No matter if they're on the desk or on the wall or on stands, the speakers will be right up in my face.

Either way, I've ordered an SMSL A50 "100wpc" amp so I can give my old Dali Concept 1s a try in this setup, they're kinda tall and slim for bookshelf speakers.

olives black
Nov 24, 2017


LENIN.
STILL.
WON'T.
FUCK.
ME.
Been pretty happy with my Yamaha A-S701 setup so far. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice in this subforum :)

Dumb newbie question: Is buying two sets of stereo speakers and playing them in the same room off of an amp with A+B set functionality something that people do? Might move into a space with more speaker room in a few years.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

olives black posted:

Been pretty happy with my Yamaha A-S701 setup so far. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice in this subforum :)

Dumb newbie question: Is buying two sets of stereo speakers and playing them in the same room off of an amp with A+B set functionality something that people do? Might move into a space with more speaker room in a few years.

If you want to. It can make weird interference/node poo poo happen tho

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

olives black posted:

Been pretty happy with my Yamaha A-S701 setup so far. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice in this subforum :)

Dumb newbie question: Is buying two sets of stereo speakers and playing them in the same room off of an amp with A+B set functionality something that people do? Might move into a space with more speaker room in a few years.

Make sure the amplifier is explicitly designed to run both at the same time. Many receivers have an A/B and you can technically activate both sides, but it won't work right at all. Like when I try on mine, it cuts the volume to like 10% of what it should be to the point where it's useless.

That being said many are explicitly designed to work for A+B combined, so just check your user manual first before you drop the :10bux:

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Mederlock posted:

Make sure the amplifier is explicitly designed to run both at the same time. Many receivers have an A/B and you can technically activate both sides, but it won't work right at all. Like when I try on mine, it cuts the volume to like 10% of what it should be to the point where it's useless.

What’s the impedance of your speakers?

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

Ok Comboomer posted:

What’s the impedance of your speakers?

4 ohms

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

that’s your problem. Very few consumer receivers with A+B can run two pairs of speakers simultaneously if the impedance of any of the pairs is lower than 8, or sometimes 6, ohm

Lots of receivers with A/B/A+B capability will have something like A OR B: 4-16 OHM, A+B: 8-16 OHM ONLY labeled on the back for precisely that reason

Sri.Theo
Apr 16, 2008
I want to connect my nice 2.1 system to my Sonos system but I still need Bluetooth to my Denon amp for my projector.

If I connect the port to the amp is it likely I’m gonna have to mess around with inputs etc to switch between the two?

Trouble is I don’t know anyone who has the Sonos Port to try it out.

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer

Sri.Theo posted:

I want to connect my nice 2.1 system to my Sonos system but I still need Bluetooth to my Denon amp for my projector.

If I connect the port to the amp is it likely I’m gonna have to mess around with inputs etc to switch between the two?

Trouble is I don’t know anyone who has the Sonos Port to try it out.

What Denon amplifier do you have? Do you use the Bluetooth natively included with the Amplifier? I've used the old version of the Port called the Connect/Zone Player, it's pretty smooth but mine eventually failed (again, it's old). You just connect it's auxiliary out or it's optical out to your amplifier and switch to that input when you want Sonos, and then switch to the amp's Bluetooth input when you want to use the projector.


A quick question, are there no alternatives to Bluetooth to get source audio from the projector to the amp? You'd likely find the audio quality would improve if you found a different solution, such as running an optical/coax cable from the projector to the amp, or using a pair of Wiim Mini's in a wireless bridge configuration(if this sounds interesting and you'd like to know more just ask :p ) to losslessly stream the audio instead of using Bluetooth. The $$ option would be buying another Port, and using it's line level Input to add the Projector's audio directly into your Sonos network, and using your first Port's line level Output to pump audio into the amplifier

hbag
Feb 13, 2021

I've been using Samson SR850s for a few years now, because they're really good quality considering their price.
I got a problem with the ear cups, though. The stock ones are too shallow for me, because my ears are pressed right up against the speaker padding and it's chafing. Somehow only just had the realization that I should probably buy deeper earpads.

Anyone know any good ones?

Tetraptous
Nov 11, 2004

Dynamic instability during transition.
I just bought an LG C2 TV, but can’t for the life of me get it to send audio to my now quite old Onkyo NR-TX525 receiver. The TV is more than capable of accepting all of the HDMI inputs I require and the interface is agreeing with me, so I’d like to use the the receiver as an amplifier for whatever audio the TV passes it, rather than plug all of the sources into the receiver.

As far as I can tell, I have two options, neither of which I can get working. The receiver claims to support ARC, but this doesn’t seem to do anything. I’ve set the TV’s audio output (HDMI 2) to ARC and connected it to the HDMI Out (supposedly ARC enabled) port on the receiver, and enabled CEC and ARC on that end. But nothing seems to happen on that end. Could it just be that the receiver is too old to support whatever the TV is doing? Or could I have the wrong kind of cable?

The other option is optical SPDIF. Here, I’ve likewise connected the receiver and TV using a new optical cable. When I set the receiver to expect digital audio through the optical port and then enable the output on the TV, I do hear a relay going, so it seems like something happens, but no sound is produced. I’ve tried the PCM, Auto, and Pass Through settings on the TV, but none work. I’d have though this should just work, but no dice so far. Any technical reason I should expect this? Note that the optical cable doesn’t seem to click into the TV side very well—is it possible poor seating is doing something?

Any advice appreciated here! Worst case, I would be willing to buy a new receiver, but all I really want is a dumb amplifier that can distribute surround signals to my speakers.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Tetraptous posted:

I just bought an LG C2 TV, but can’t for the life of me get it to send audio to my now quite old Onkyo NR-TX525 receiver. The TV is more than capable of accepting all of the HDMI inputs I require and the interface is agreeing with me, so I’d like to use the the receiver as an amplifier for whatever audio the TV passes it, rather than plug all of the sources into the receiver.

As far as I can tell, I have two options, neither of which I can get working. The receiver claims to support ARC, but this doesn’t seem to do anything. I’ve set the TV’s audio output (HDMI 2) to ARC and connected it to the HDMI Out (supposedly ARC enabled) port on the receiver, and enabled CEC and ARC on that end. But nothing seems to happen on that end. Could it just be that the receiver is too old to support whatever the TV is doing? Or could I have the wrong kind of cable?

The other option is optical SPDIF. Here, I’ve likewise connected the receiver and TV using a new optical cable. When I set the receiver to expect digital audio through the optical port and then enable the output on the TV, I do hear a relay going, so it seems like something happens, but no sound is produced. I’ve tried the PCM, Auto, and Pass Through settings on the TV, but none work. I’d have though this should just work, but no dice so far. Any technical reason I should expect this? Note that the optical cable doesn’t seem to click into the TV side very well—is it possible poor seating is doing something?

Any advice appreciated here! Worst case, I would be willing to buy a new receiver, but all I really want is a dumb amplifier that can distribute surround signals to my speakers.

did you take the cover off the TOSlink cable? Off the ports?

Is the cable or port damaged (if it’s not seating right, I’d make sure that was resolved before moving to other troubleshooting)? Is it the right kind of plug size?

Maybe something’s wrong with your receiver.

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

Tetraptous posted:

I just bought an LG C2 TV, but can’t for the life of me get it to send audio to my now quite old Onkyo NR-TX525 receiver. The TV is more than capable of accepting all of the HDMI inputs I require and the interface is agreeing with me, so I’d like to use the the receiver as an amplifier for whatever audio the TV passes it, rather than plug all of the sources into the receiver.

As far as I can tell, I have two options, neither of which I can get working. The receiver claims to support ARC, but this doesn’t seem to do anything. I’ve set the TV’s audio output (HDMI 2) to ARC and connected it to the HDMI Out (supposedly ARC enabled) port on the receiver, and enabled CEC and ARC on that end. But nothing seems to happen on that end. Could it just be that the receiver is too old to support whatever the TV is doing? Or could I have the wrong kind of cable?

The other option is optical SPDIF. Here, I’ve likewise connected the receiver and TV using a new optical cable. When I set the receiver to expect digital audio through the optical port and then enable the output on the TV, I do hear a relay going, so it seems like something happens, but no sound is produced. I’ve tried the PCM, Auto, and Pass Through settings on the TV, but none work. I’d have though this should just work, but no dice so far. Any technical reason I should expect this? Note that the optical cable doesn’t seem to click into the TV side very well—is it possible poor seating is doing something?

Any advice appreciated here! Worst case, I would be willing to buy a new receiver, but all I really want is a dumb amplifier that can distribute surround signals to my speakers.

Are you sure the HDMI 2 port supports ARC? On mine its only the HDMI 1, same with my receiver. I have multiple input/output HDMI ports, but only one of them supports ARC.

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud
From the Onkyo NR-TX525 manual


e: and for the TV
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAv31r4HExw&t=418s

Fozzy The Bear fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Jun 29, 2023

Tetraptous
Nov 11, 2004

Dynamic instability during transition.

Ok Comboomer posted:

did you take the cover off the TOSlink cable? Off the ports?

Is the cable or port damaged (if it’s not seating right, I’d make sure that was resolved before moving to other troubleshooting)? Is it the right kind of plug size?

Maybe something’s wrong with your receiver.

Thanks, I’m a loving idiot and left the transparent little caps on the ends of the optical cable. Works great now! I’m pretty sure I’ve even done this before, like a decade ago :saddowns:

Fozzy The Bear posted:

Are you sure the HDMI 2 port supports ARC? On mine its only the HDMI 1, same with my receiver. I have multiple input/output HDMI ports, but only one of them supports ARC.

Also thanks! I may try to get this working again, too, since it would be nice to have the TV control the receiver using CEC rather than the IR blasters, given the space in my cabinet. Pretty sure I have the right ports: weirdly HDMI 2 is the ARC port on the TV (it is labeled as such). My copy of the Onkyo manual was a little weird in that the HDMI Out was labeled [1], and HDMI 1 is labeled with another number, but I figured out what they meant. It’s clearer in the description you found.

empty baggie
Oct 22, 2003

My LG C9’s ARC port is HDMI 2, so that sounds right to me.

Red Rox
Aug 24, 2004

Motel Midnight off the hook
Ok this is driving me kinda crazy.

I bought a Philips TAB5706 soundbar to connect to my computer (through my tv) for gaming/movies. And to connect to my Echo Dot for playing music.

I finally got the ARC thing working through the TV (the issue seemed to have been the HDMI cable) and I connected the Echo Dot with an AUX cable. The sound is amazing - yay me!

But now I have two problems:

1. If the TV is on and I turn the soundbar off, or switch the soundbar from HDMI/ARC to AUX, the TV starts freaking out and turning on and off every few seconds. I guess the ARC is putting the TV into sleep mode and then the computer is waking it back up? Not sure what’s going on there. drat near gives me an epileptic fit.

2. The soundbar has a “handy” power saving feature so it turns itself off after 15 min of it doesn’t receive a signal. Which means the Echo Dot is useless if I try to set a timer.

It’s the epitome of first world problems lol.

1. I can solve by just unplugging the soundbar HDMI cable when I’m not using it, which isn’t really that often. But that’s not exactly a hi-tech solution. I can also just connect my computer to the soundbar via Bluetooth, but I guess the sound quality wouldn’t be as good and I quite enjoy the ARC benefits.

2. Is a real pain in the rear end. Any ideas how to disable the eco power saving function? I can’t seem to connect the soundbar to the Echo Dot via Bluetooth. I’d prefer if I could leave it on all day so I could ask Alexa to play song etc at any time, rather than have to switch it on first.

Dr. Fraiser Chain
May 18, 2004

Redlining my shit posting machine


My old rear end Uncle was looking for recs for a "HD Radio" which I assume is a market without a lot of RnD behind it. Anyone have a rec? Or just buy a high rated piece of garbage off of Amazon, it's all the same?

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer
HD radio is a new standard, like the switch to digital TV, that sends a digital signal over FM alongside the analog one.

Not many stations in my country use it, none in my city for instance, but I understand it's a lot more widespread in the US. Look up the city where he lives and if the channels he likes don't have it, it's pointless to get something with HD.

Your best bet is to find just a radio tuner that's compatible with it that can feed audio over RCA to an amp. Something like this looks fine

https://www.amazon.com/Sangean-HDT-20-Radio-FM-Stereo-Component/dp/B01BY02C5K/

There are cheaper ones available, but the tiny speakers will be so lovely that the quality improvement of an HD radio signal will be completely wasted anyways.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
HD radio kind of fizzled because every radio receiver has to pay a license fee.

It’s “all or nothing” in a digital way, but the fidelity isn’t really better than a good analog FM signal.

There are usually two extra sub-channels, but they’re never compelling content. The sub channels sound even worse and the audience is small, so there’s nothing important on them.

There’s a metadata layer so stations could send out song titles or art, which is probably why so many car makers tried HD radios for a while. Now stations just treat the metadata as extra ad space, so your car radio always shows an ambulance-chasing lawyer’s phone number.

Maybe ask why dad wants HD radio at all. There are no plans to kill analog radio in the US like they did analog TV. HD radio is just a thing clinging to the edges because the US has very generous channel spacing for commercial radio.

EL BROMANCE
Jun 10, 2006

COWABUNGA DUDES!
🥷🐢😬



Having a slight urge to add rear surrounds to my existing 3.0 system, but with my furniture up so close against the wall it’s limiting my options, most likely to something that could be wall mounted (or maybe sit on top of a small shelf?)







My main sitting position is where the yellow pillow is, and my gf tends to sit along the longer edge.

My receiver has one of those microphones for setting balances so not sure if the fact it won’t be dead opposite the left front is an issue (or I could move it I guess, but like the way it is right now). Alas it’s an Onkyo so not the good type like Yamaha has.

The space on the wall is exactly 30cm wide on either side of the window.

Any suggestions or experience from others in a similar setup?

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer
I would recommend smaller bookshelves or larger satellite speakers, with a wall mounting setup available to them. Tons of options on Amazon, like these for bookshelves and these for satellite speakers.

Get them up at around eyeball height or whatever works for your space, and tilt them down as far as they'll go. Try to point them towards the center of your couch, but still outwards towards where like, you'd kick your feet up while watching a show on the back part of the couch.

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EL BROMANCE
Jun 10, 2006

COWABUNGA DUDES!
🥷🐢😬



Thanks for the tips! I’ll check those links out.

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