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I want to setup some audio to go with my HDTV. Knowing nothing about audio, I am clueless where to begin. I have somewhere from 600-800 dollars that I can throw at this thing. Does anyone have recommendations on what would be a decent starting system? I don't want very loud sound as I live in an apartment, but I would like to have something that is as crisp and full as I can for that kind of cash.
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May 28, 2007 05:53
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Mister Duck posted:I want to setup some audio to go with my HDTV. Knowing nothing about audio, I am clueless where to begin. I have somewhere from 600-800 dollars that I can throw at this thing. Does anyone have recommendations on what would be a decent starting system? I don't want very loud sound as I live in an apartment, but I would like to have something that is as crisp and full as I can for that kind of cash. Since I am just getting into this kind of thing as well and I can tell you it's probably going to cost more than that for a good receiver and speaker setup. I went to J&R and found out that a setup I was interested in was going to cost around 1200-1300. 600 for the receiver and around 600 for the speakers and subwoofer and all that. I'm sure someone else can give you more info.
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May 28, 2007 18:36
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PC->audio system has been beaten to death already, but I wonder how important sound cards are in this sort of setup? I have heard mixed things in real life discussions with people on the matter. I'll layout my setup (or setup my layout?): I have a Dell Dimension PC which has an onboard 7.1 sound and a headphone jack up in the front of the tower. Currently I'm using a stereo 1/8" plug->RCA adapter with the RCA cables going from the adapter to the audio receiver. PC headphone jack to receiver. It feels wrong.. is there any better way to do this? Is there anything wrong with this, or if this is the way to do it, is it better to get the actual 1/8"->RCA cable then have an RCA cable plugged into the adapter? Is it best to get some kick rear end soundcard with some magic PC OUT jack?
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May 28, 2007 20:37
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Down Is the New Up posted:I have a Dell Dimension PC which has an onboard 7.1 sound and a headphone jack up in the front of the tower. Currently I'm using a stereo 1/8" plug->RCA adapter with the RCA cables going from the adapter to the audio receiver. PC headphone jack to receiver. If you have a receiver that takes a digital input, your best bet would be to get a chaintech av710 for cheap and let the stereo handle the DAC.
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May 28, 2007 20:52
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Hi, I have a 5th generation 30Gb iPod video and I bought this case for it: The case has a magnetic clasp used to keep the main flap closed. My question is this: will this magnet affect the hard drive in my iPod and/or reduce the longevity of its battery? DonnyOsmond fucked around with this message at 01:19 on May 30, 2007 |
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May 29, 2007 06:16
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DonnyOsmond posted:Hi, I have a 5th generation 30Gb iPod video and I bought this case for it:
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May 29, 2007 08:12
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I have a Magnavox turntable/tape deck/am-fm tuner. I just bought a new needle for it, and it sounds great as far as very little skipping, popping, and hissing, but everything plays too fast, and all my albums sound about a half octave higher than they do on CD. I made sure it's set on 33, not 45. Is there any way I can adjust the playing speed? Help me, I'm too young to know about these things 
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May 29, 2007 14:30
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ShoogaSlim posted:Since I am just getting into this kind of thing as well and I can tell you it's probably going to cost more than that for a good receiver and speaker setup. I went to J&R and found out that a setup I was interested in was going to cost around 1200-1300. 600 for the receiver and around 600 for the speakers and subwoofer and all that. I'm sure someone else can give you more info. Why would you drop half of the money on a receiver? The speakers are responsible for like 80% of the sonic quality. The receiver, not so much.
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May 30, 2007 12:27
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Might not be the correct post but whats the easiest way to convert .flac to LAME vbr v0? I'm looking for somethign that is free.
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Jun 1, 2007 05:48
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Corbet posted:Might not be the correct post but whats the easiest way to convert .flac to LAME vbr v0? I'm looking for somethign that is free. Hydrogenaudio has a thread about it, with some good options in it.
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Jun 1, 2007 09:09
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What's the easiest and cheapest way to hook my ipod nano up to my stereo? The stereo only has a Left/Right AUX input thingy.
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Jun 2, 2007 20:53
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antisocial86 posted:What's the easiest and cheapest way to hook my ipod nano up to my stereo?
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Jun 2, 2007 22:37
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Boner Slam posted:Why would you drop half of the money on a receiver? This is not true.
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Jun 3, 2007 18:59
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What are my options for powered, shielded monitors for under $200? I need small but not lovely speakers that can sit on my desk on either side of my display, and that don't require a separate amp. I've found the M-Audio Studiophile DX4, but I can't find anything similar from other companies so I don't know how to compare between models. For reference, I currently have the Klipsch Promedia 2.1 set but want to change to something without a subwoofer.
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Jun 4, 2007 03:42
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uncut product posted:What are my options for powered, shielded monitors for under $200? Check the selection at Musician's Friend. Make sure you call first to see if the monitors come in a pair or singles, some of the listings aren't clear.
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Jun 6, 2007 15:04
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SkaWes posted:Me personally, I cannot tell the difference between a 320 & 128 MP3 file, so I rip everything at 128 and it works just fine for me. If the same is true for you, then rip them at whatever the lowest bitrate that sounds good to you is. And what happens when you buy a better stereo? I used to not care about mp3 quality, I'd have mixed bitrates, bits of this, bits of that, some 128kbit albums, some -aps albums... I mean, what the gently caress did I care, as if I can tell the difference through my reasonably cheap headphones? Then I bought a decent stereo. Long story short, anything that's not a decent bitrate is getting replaced. You might not be able to hear the difference now, on your current equipment, in your current listening environment, etc. However, if that's enough to make you go with the lower bitrate, you're being terribly shortsighted.
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Jun 8, 2007 08:09
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Screw it, I'm converting my FLACs to WAV since FLAC is brighter than WAV. The only caveat is I might need this £4000 pink cable to fully appreciate the lack of brightness. I was skeptical at first, but can't argue with his proof. Remember, before trying DBT, make sure to warm-up the computer first.
Syllogism fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Jun 8, 2007 |
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Jun 8, 2007 13:39
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Hi. I'm moving in to a new place and wanted to buy a receiver and speakers. Having a limited budget (around 1000$) and not wanting to settle for a cheap home-theatre-in-a-box, I had to ponder wether to get a cheap receiver with two good speakers for a stereo setup, or a good receiver with cheap speakers for a 5.1 setup. Realizing that I was doing this mainly to enjoy 5.1 sound, I decided to go along with the good receiver/cheap speakers idea... I'll upgrade the speakers later when I have the budget for them. So I went ahead and bought a Yamaha HTR-6060 hdmi receiver. Looking for speakers, I stumbled upon a deal and bought from somebody the Yamaha 5.1 speakers kit that comes along with their entry level receivers for a mere 70$. Everything is swell, except for the subwoofer... I didn't notice it, but the one included in the kit I bought is a passive sub... and there's only a pre-out for an active sub on the HTR-6060... Will I have to buy an active sub or could I hookup the passive sub to my front channels along with the two bookshelves speakers without fear of blowing something up ?
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Jun 8, 2007 15:20
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Can someone recommend a good basic 5.1 receiver? Primary use will be watching DVDs and maybe occasional video games. Let's start at $200 and see where that gets us.
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Jun 8, 2007 23:01
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Syllogism posted:Screw it, I'm converting my FLACs to WAV since FLAC is brighter than WAV. The only caveat is I might need this �4000 pink cable to fully appreciate the lack of brightness. I was skeptical at first, but can't argue with his proof. Remember, before trying DBT, make sure to warm-up the computer first. Patrick82 gets mocked in pretty much every single SH/SC audiophile thread for his stupidity. The idiot bought Brilliant Pebbles, a JOKE product, and claimed it actually improved audio quality.  More nuggets of wisdom: quote:I got the "Mini" Brilliant Pebbles and tried it in different places in my system in different spots on top of the chassis. quote:2nd impression:  However, if you're looking for a high-end CD player, you may want to look into buying an early Playstation 1... 
Stutes fucked around with this message at 10:31 on Jun 10, 2007 |
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Jun 10, 2007 10:17
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I need to get new speakers, want to say my range is around 150$, powered. Are building speakers very difficult if I have zero soldering experience? I can build the cabinets, the electronics is what is scary.
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Jun 10, 2007 21:06
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Is it possible to get decent 2.1 sound without running though amps and receivers and head units and god knows what other gadgets I see talked about here? I'm looking for something with just a stereo minijack, so I can plug them into my laptop, my MP3 player (Cowon iAudio X5), a discman, or get an RCA converter to make noise with my Wii. But if getting these intermediary units is really worth it, I'd consider splashing out. My current system is a 5 year old Logitech piece, 2.1. I think it was X-220 or something of that nature, but one of the pins on the audio cable has broken off, and now only the left speaker works.
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Jun 10, 2007 23:02
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sokatoah posted:Is it possible to get decent 2.1 sound without running though amps and receivers and head units and god knows what other gadgets I see talked about here? The Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 would probably make you happy. Can be had under $150, and would sound a hell of a lot better than those Logitechs. Does it have to be 2 POINT ONE? There are some reasonably priced active monitors out there. Around $200 - $300 would get you sound that would kick those Klipchs' rear end. No sub, but really all computer speaker subs suck and you won't find anything truly good for less than a few hundred. The reson why you'd want to get a receiver + bookshelfs (or whatever) is for upgrading in the future. It just makes it easy, if one day you're like "hey I want new speakers" you can go get nicer ones and hook them up to that same receiver and hear the difference. With powered speakers, if you ever want to upgrade, you'll have to start all over again.
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Jun 11, 2007 05:57
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I have a couple quick questions: I have a Soundblaster Audigy 2 ZS PCMIA Sound Card and am currently just running a headphone to rca converter to my receiver. My receiver has an optical in jack, and for $15-25 I can get the Soundblaster Digital I/O Module and switch to optical. Does that make sense to do? Am I going to hear any difference in quality? Also, I have a passive 150w 15" subwoofer running from my receiver to my speakers (Cerwin Vega D-3s). I really would like to be able to use the subwoofer jack on my reciever, and I would also like to have more control over the sound coming out my speakers. I have thought about maybe getting a subwoofer amplifier and hooking it up to the sub so that the sub would be active, would that be feasible? Is there some sort of audio device I can buy that will do what I want? And lastly, I have a sharp tv that has a broken cable jack. So I run my cable through my jvc vcr. I also have a jvc receiver. I have a remote for the tv which "works" with the vcr, and I mean works as in it has a button for vcr channel up and vcr channel down. The remote of course does not work with the receiver. I do have a remote for my receiver which is nice, and it "works" with my jvc vcr but can only turn it off and on. This remote does not work with my tv. The question that I am getting to, after all that information, is there a universal remote that will work with my reciever, my vcr and my tv? And if there isnt, or if it would just cost a ton, what is a good cheap universal remote that will work with my vcr and my tv 100%? Hashtag Banterzone fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Jun 11, 2007 |
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Jun 11, 2007 17:33
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I'm trying to play DVDs on my computer and I can't get the sound to work. I've downloaded the K-Lite Codec Pack and I've tried both Media Player Classic and VLC and there is no sound at all. Sound works for me in every other way when I play games or listen to MP3s or something like that, just not when I play DVDs. I really don't know anything about audio codecs or anything and I'm assuming there is just some simple explanation for this.
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Jun 12, 2007 05:59
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Down Is the New Up posted:PC->audio system has been beaten to death already, but I wonder how important sound cards are in this sort of setup? I have heard mixed things in real life discussions with people on the matter. I'll layout my setup (or setup my layout?): A computer soundcard is (essentially) a digital to analogue convertor and an analogue to digital convertor. It has an array of inputs and outputs which allow you to convert analogue signals to digital signals and vice versa. In a nutshell: 1) The Analogue to Digital convertor (ADC) stage is used for recording incoming analogue signals. For instance, you plug a microphone into a soundcard input and record in a digital audio workstation like Cubase which runs on your PC. You sing into the mic and the mic capsule detects the variation in air pressure caused by the expelled air from your lungs resonating with your vocal chords. It converts these variations in air pressure into variations in voltage. This is our analogue signal. It then goes to the Analogue to Digital Convertor (ADC) stage where it is 'digitised' or quantised to use its technical term. You now have a digital reproduction of that analogue signal. The process of quantisation involves sampling the amplitude of the signal a number of times per second. This is the samplerate. So a CD sample quality recording (44,100 hz) would involve the convertor sampling the analogue signal 44,100 times per second. The number of discrete levels of amplitude that it is sensitive to is a function of bitdepth. CD Quality is 16 bits. It works exactly like bits in pictures. 32 bit colour means that each pixel can be have 16.7 unique colour values. audio sampled with 32 bits of resolution means it can have millions of discrete variations in amplitude. The convertor interpolates everything between the samples - joins the dots basically and you have a digital reproduction of an analogue sound. The ADC and input stage is for recording. If you don't do any recording you don't care about any of this. 2) To hear the sound, the digital signal is sent to the Digital to Analogue convertor (DAC) stage. This takes a digital signal and converts it to variable current. This tiny electrical signal is sent to the output stage where it travels along a wire to your speakers. Your speaker amplifier stage takes this tiny electrical signal and 'amplifies' it using an external power supply. This larger current then hits the speaker tranducer (the cone bit) which literally punches out this variable current thus causing the air close to the tranducer to ripple. So this variable current is translated to variation in air pressure once again. This variation in air pressure reaches the ear where it resonates with the ear drum and our brain interprets this as sound. Just for  purposes a speaker is basically the same technology as a microphone only it works in reverse. In fact with a few tricks you can scream into the woofer of a speaker unit and do some very crude recording.  Essentially then, a soundcard is simply a box which allows you to get sound in and out of your PC. Beyond that it gets more complicated but if you do ZERO recording and don't use your PC for any musical purpose then the only thing you really care about is: 1) The maximum bitdepth and samplerate of the DAC. 2) The signal to noise ratio (SNR) on the output. 3) The number of outputs (you need 2 outputs for stereo: 1 Left; 2 Right. You need 6 outputs for true surround sound playback: 1 Centre; 2 Front Left; 3 Front Right; 4 Back Left; 5 Back Right; 6 Centre Sub) 4) How reliable and up to date the driver is. If you do recording or plan to do some, then it gets more complex as you now care about ADCs, pre amp stages, MIDI integration, wordclock integration etc etc. so I won't address that unless someone asks specifically. Why is a soundcard important? You may be comparing a soundcard with an onboard chipset. If you can, avoid getting soundcards that come on PCI boards. Soundcards were never meant to be put inside PCs because of the number of electrical sources nearby which can generate alot of RF interference. The ideal soundcard will be one that comes in an external breakout box (which you want to place far away from your PC and any other electrical power supply) and which interfaces via Firewire. However when you think about buying soundcards you have to think of it like buying parts for a computer. You can spend thousands of pounds on an incredible studio quality convertor but if your speakers suck, you are not going to hear the difference. Just like buying a 3.8ghz CPU for a computer with 256mb RAM - you are just bottlenecking the system. So what soundcard should you get? This depends largely on your needs. 1) If you plan on listening only in stereo then you only need a soundcard with 2 outputs with 24-bit/96khz DACs. 24/96 is the DVD-Audio standard. If you wish to listen in surround sound you must have 6 outputs. 2) For various reasons the convertor isn't everything. How well it keeps clock and the integrity of the signal path (galv isolation being the ideal) are as important if not more so. Really really loving expensive converters tend to be over engineered so they have pristine signal paths, awesome clocking and convertors which can sample up to the DXD rate (384,000hz). You will not notice the difference unless you have extremely sensitive speakers and this is unlikely in the home. If you have very large powerful speakers that can accurately reproduce wide band signals (we are talking 35hz to 20khz+) then you will want better DACs. At least, you will notice your purchase alot more than if you listening via a pair of cheapo headphones. If you have a pretty ordinary average hi fi type sound system then the convertor issue is not that important. Even the budget soundcard market has fairly decent boards out there. The Emu 1212M for example which is give or take the best budget soundcard you can get in my humble opinion for under £130 sterling. For both listening and Recording. What about Creative cards? Creative cards are all derived from Emu boards. Creative bought Emu out not too long ago and the latest generation board they have, the X-Fi is derived from the 1212 board. In fact the X-Fi platinum pro is essentially the same soundcard as an Emu 1212M except that: 1) the 1212M sports 1/4inch balanced jacks. The X-Fi sports unbalanced RCA phono jacks. 2) The 1212M has slightly better SNR on the input. 3) The 1212M DSP chip runs a suite of effects processors that can be used for music production with no hit to CPU load. The X-Fi DSP chip runs a suite of effects processors for use in the latest EAX supported games. 4) The X-Fi has a number of gimmicky technologies like the 24 bit crystalizer which is nothing more than a glorified transient compressor. Recommendations: 1) Stick with brands you know or ones which are reputed to have stable drivers. There are few things worse than glitchy unsupported drivers. 2) Creative gets alot of stick in the recording community but mainly because their marketting department really lives up to the company name. The X-Fi is basically a good card because its basically an electronically unbalanced version of the Emu 1212M with plugs that fit most home theatre soundsystems instead of studio monitors. 3) To run the latest EAX in games, you must have a Creative card. 4) Always check how many outputs a soundcard has. You need 2 for stereo. 6 for surround. Check its SNR although to be fair theres barely anything between the big brands. 5) Brands to check out: Emu, M-Audio, Creative. You can of course get alot better for listening and recording but they also cost alot more money and have more specialist music making applications. For most people in most homes with run of the mill sound systems there really is not much noticeable difference. The most important and noticeable increase in sound quality you will get is not through a soundcard. It is: 1) through a speaker upgrade. 2) in the acoustics of the room in which you listen to them. Therefore, if you simply want better sound quality you will most likely want to sort these out first. Hope this helps mang. As for cables. The only thing you care about is that it is well shielded. Most home soundsystems will be totally unbalanced. Most home soundcards (all the Creative cards) are unbalanced so this doesn't really matter. My advice is to not bother spending tonnes of money on expensive cable. Just get a tough durable, well shielded one and you are fine. As I said you will notice a much more dramatic increase in sound quality by purchasing better speakers and listen to those speakers in a nice sounding room at the appropriate distance. WanderingKid fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Jun 13, 2007 |
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Jun 13, 2007 22:36
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I just pulled the trigger on some Behringer b2031a powered monitors. As far as I can tell, they only take balanced input. Is that going to be a problem, considering I'm basically using them from my DVD player/xbox/cable box? Can I buy a box that converts unbalanced to balanced moderately cheaply (say, $50, max) without destroying sound quality?
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Jun 14, 2007 05:48
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A Balanced cable has 3 lines - signal, anti phase signal and ground. An Unbalanced cable has 2 lines - signal and ground. The answer is: Most modern balanced gear can support any combination of balanced or unbalanced lines. You do not need an op amp or anything like that. The first thing I need to know is what is the input on the speaker? Is it a TRS Jack input? An XLR input (black circle with 3 holes in the middle)? Now go to https://www.hosa.com. This site has some illustrations which you will find useful. You can buy cables which are terminated on one end with a balanced jack and an unbalanced jack on the other end. These cables have 3 lines but on the unbalanced end, the anti phase signal carrying line is grounded. This means that no matter what, this cable will always be unbalanced. It exists simply for connectivity reasons. Peruse the Hosa website and find what jack type connections you need. Your DVD player will most likely have an RCA phono output. So you would need an RCA to TRS or TS or XLR jack to connect your monitors to your DVD player. It doesn't matter which one because the system is not going to balance anyway and theres no anti phase signal so it will be ignored. To convert unbalanced to balanced you need a Direct Injection Box. These vary in price from the ultra cheap Behringers and Millenium D.I.s to the quite expensive Radial Engineering D.I.s The difference in price is mainly down to the number of extra features. To connect this up you would run a stereo RCA to TS cable from your DVD player outputs to the DI box. This part of the signal chain will always be unbalanced. The DI will electronically balance the signal and you will need a TRS/XLR to TRS/XLR jack to connect the DI box to your monitor speakers. This part of the signal chain will electronically balance. WanderingKid fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Jun 15, 2007 |
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Jun 14, 2007 12:57
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First, thanks for the answer, I appreciate the detail. The speakers have both XLR and TRS inputs. But really, I guess the question is this: If they can handle an unbalanced input, is there any benefit to buying a DI box and providing a balanced input? You say the difference in price is mainly down to number of features; does this mean a cheaper one won't affect my sound quality?
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Jun 14, 2007 21:18
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All a D.I. box does is match impedance really and break ground loops if you had them before. The more expensive D.I.s do exactly the same thing except they come with other useful bits and bobs (if you happen to need them). Such as high and low pass filters, phase reversal switches and more channels. There are two things you can do: 1) Run an unbalanced RCA phono to unbalanced TS jack from the DVD player straight into the speaker. The signal chain is totally unbalanced. I'd probably do this because its cheaper and I assume your cable runs are short. 2) Run an unbalanced RCA phono to unbalanced TS jack from the DVD player into a D.I. Run a balanced TRS to TRS jack into your monitor inputs. The signal chain is unbalanced before the D.I. and balanced after. To be honest, unless you are getting ground loops with the player you don't really need a D.I. The D.I. will break a ground loop if you have one. The only other reason why you might want to have a D.I. in the middle is if you are running hundreds of feet of cable and signal attenuation and crosstalk become a problem. Then you can eliminate it by using a short unbalanced cable between the D.I. and the DVD player and a really gently caress off long balanced cable between the D.I. and your monitor inputs.
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Jun 14, 2007 23:35
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Well, considering my longest run is on the order of 6 feet, and I've never had a ground loop issue (outside of car audio), I think I have my answer. Thanks.
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Jun 14, 2007 23:51
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orborborb posted:This is not true. But it is.
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Jun 15, 2007 14:56
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Boner Slam posted:But it is. Totally with you, Boner Slam. Nonbelievers, have you ever looked up speaker specifications? Everything is measured in percents, not fractions of percents.
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Jun 15, 2007 15:39
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Question: I'm moving to a dorm room this fall and along with a new PC with a soundblaster x-fi card I want to get new PC speakers (I dont want to bother with getting a reciever). What 2.1 speaker setup would you guys recomend that would fill a dorm-sized room with quality sound? Keep in my mind I intend to use my PC primarily for music and not movies or games. I dont really want to spend over $170 either.
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Jun 16, 2007 20:42
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Dogkicker posted:Question: I'm moving to a dorm room this fall and along with a new PC with a soundblaster x-fi card I want to get new PC speakers (I dont want to bother with getting a reciever). What 2.1 speaker setup would you guys recomend that would fill a dorm-sized room with quality sound? Keep in my mind I intend to use my PC primarily for music and not movies or games. I dont really want to spend over $170 either. 'sound quality' with respect to speakers would be more or less subjective and it depends on what you are used to listening to. The best thing you can do is burn a disc full of your favourite songs and take it down to your local sound system retailer. Then audition everything that clocks in underneath your stated budget. I personally think think that Blue Sky make decent 2.1 monitoring systems but they are freaking expensive. I have a pair of Dynaudio BM5as and I love them but they don't sound especially pleasant. The tweeter is incredibly sensitive - almost annoyingly so. Move your head left or right a few inches from centre and you can hear the phase changes. Its brilliant and annoying at the same time if you are mixing/recording in stereo. I know a few folks who really don't like this at all and would rather not mix on my speakers. Its also worth mentioning that your room will have a huge impact on the way that sound is reproduced. Depending on how bad it is and how obsessive you are then you may want to consider treating your room with acoustic panelling and bass traps as well as moving a few things around. The bottomline is this: Don't listen to anyone who tells you to buy 'this speaker or that speaker. Only you will know exactly what you like the sound of so go and audition them for yourself. You can audition more expensive, techically better speakers but if they are well out of your budget then doing so is more likely to make you want something you can no way afford. Naming a price and auditioning only 2.1 systems you can afford means you will be more likely to leave satisfied with your purchase which is the most important thing in the end. You really have to hear what you are purchasing before you part with your cash though. You wouldn't buy a car without test driving it first. WanderingKid fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jun 16, 2007 |
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Jun 16, 2007 21:58
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I noticed I've got some lint/dust building up on my silk dome tweeters, I tried a gentle application of compressed air to get it off, but it didn't get all of it. Any suggestions for cleaning silk dome tweeters?
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Jun 17, 2007 04:25
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I just bought a new Onkyo Home Theater Receiver (TX-SR504) from Circuit City after my old Kenwood from the 70's pooped out. I have a pair of Bose 901 Series speakers from 1983 and they have the equalizer box that you're supposed to run through the tape input and output on the back of the receiver. The problem is when I hook the speakers up as the "B" set of speakers (like it told me to in the manual) I have no equalizer control through either the receiver or Bose equalizer. Then when I connect the the speakers through the "A" channel as the front speakers of surround sound, I can control the equalizer through the receiever but still not through the Bose equalizer. And then the speakers just sound hollow because I have no center speaker, sub woofer, etc. Regardless, I can't get the decent bass with the new receiever that I got with my old one - the sound is very flat. Does anybody have any ideas on how I can get the speakers to work properly through the "B" set and how I can get the Bose equalizer to work? Sorry if this was confusing - I'm not a great audio mind.
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Jun 18, 2007 02:34
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Is there a place to buy cheap headphone replacement cables? My cat ate mine The instructions say there are two small clips inside the can...am I stuck going with the maker of the headphones?
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Jun 18, 2007 18:52
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McCheese posted:I noticed I've got some lint/dust building up on my silk dome tweeters, I tried a gentle application of compressed air to get it off, but it didn't get all of it. Any suggestions for cleaning silk dome tweeters? It shouldn't be a problem even if it looks aesthetically unappealing. The drivers in my monitors have a thin layer of dust on them permanently but I'd rather not prod at soft dome tweeter if I don't have to. It would probably be a thick caked layer of dust if I hadn't been booming it out on a regular basis - vibrate as much of it off as you can through normal listening and leave it at that. Unless someone knows of a proper way to clean them? I noticed from my old speakers that the tweeter is actually quite resiliant. You can collapse the dome and poke it and even take a cloth to it. That said, my old speakers are basically disposible now - I wouldn't do any of that on my current speakers because the manufacturer told me not to. 
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Jun 19, 2007 01:28
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I'll be moving into a new, big house by winter. This means my own room, finally, and the room will be somewhat isolated from the rest of the house. So this also means that finally, I can listen to some music out loud. The ONLY reason I don't have music going 24/7 is because I can't stand headphones. I'm not much of an audiophile, but I'm getting into record collecting and I have a decent collection on my PC. What kind of setup can I get on a fairly low budget? I'm not sure if I'll be able to drill holes into walls and the likes, but I know I want to have speakers around the room with a warm atmosphere-y kinda thing going, and I can live with running wires under the carpet along the walls. Any sound card recommendations? If there's a megathread for this kinda thing, send it my way. Thanks. e: ohh, just realized there are wireless systems out there. How does this look? fart barterer fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Jun 19, 2007 |
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Jun 19, 2007 05:34
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