For your listening pleasure: The quick audio questions megathread!

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Inspect Your Gadgets > For your listening pleasure: The quick audio questions megathread!

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Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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dave_o posted:

That looks like male-male though. Here's what I'm talking about--

PC Speakers --> Mystery Cable --> RCA for TV audio out

So that my PC speakers can be used with my TV. Is this even possible?

Yes, just get a similar cable with female minijack or that kind of cable with 3.5mm Stereo Coupler Female-Female. Unless your speakers have some other kind of connector that 3.5mm minijack.

# ¿ Apr 13, 2007 18:17

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# ¿ May 4, 2024 04:18

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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It could help if you told us the exact models of the TV and home theater. Have you read through the manuals?

# ¿ May 3, 2007 10:29

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

antisocial86 posted:

What's the easiest and cheapest way to hook my ipod nano up to my stereo?

The stereo only has a Left/Right AUX input thingy.

Most likely 3.5mm Stereo Plug/2 RCA Plug cable.

# ¿ Jun 2, 2007 22:37

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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What is tu name? posted:

Does anybody have any ideas on how I can get the speakers to work properly through the "B" set and how I can get the Bose equalizer to work? Sorry if this was confusing - I'm not a great audio mind.

I don't think you can get the equalizer to work unless you only have one source. I don't think modern receivers have those TAPE inputs and outputs that the Bose is meant to use. Another possibility would be connection between the preamp and amplifier designed equalizers, but I've mainly seen those in fancier stereo receivers. I'm not sure how common those are in home theater receivers and yours doesn't have that. I don't understand the requirement for using B speakers. I would suggest getting new speakers that don't need equalizer.

# ¿ Jun 19, 2007 17:28

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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sund posted:

Yeah, or run the B speakers to your bathroom and rock out in the shower.

I have my B speakers in kitchen and bedroom. Doing dishes isn't nearly as bad when I can listen to music.

# ¿ Jul 1, 2007 21:15

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

The easiest option is to buy a used stereo amplifier, preferably one with a same type of S/PDIF digital input as your TV has as an output.

# ¿ Aug 4, 2007 19:06

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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American Jello posted:

I would be running optical except I have an analog Technics receiver. Would using the 2-prong adapter in the power cord work? I'm gonna go see if i can find it.

edit: tested it, worked decently, but the computer still hums more than any other component (or open space) I have. I'm beginning to think the extension cable is the problem. How can I use my laptop without being tethered 3 feet from my system?

You could try using a ground loop isolator.

# ¿ Aug 8, 2007 10:17

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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omgwtfnoway posted:

I got a pretty dumb question probably because I've never done any A/V stuff. I have an Onkyo SR674 receiver and connected to it are a couple Polk Monitor 50 series floor speakers. My question is that on the speakers there are 2 separate black/red connections and I have one going to the receiver as front left and right, where should the other two go? Do I even need to connect them?

Those are most likely for bi-wiring, you won't need it. I've never heard of someone using bi-wiring, so why do the ability seem so common with speakers? Would think the accountants would have stopped the practice by now.

# ¿ Aug 27, 2007 15:13

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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Pibborando San posted:

Should only matter if you need an extremely long run (over 50'). Digital cables either work 100% or cut in and out or don't work at all.

I'm not quite sure about that. People have reported noise on dark scenes with DVI cables about 10 meters long.

# ¿ Sep 28, 2007 22:53

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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Pibborando San posted:

Really, you want them as close to the sides of the TV as you can get them. Although, mine are about a foot and a half from the sides of mine (but that's because I use them for music too, and I like having a pretty wide stage). If they're all the way in the corners, then you'll have action on the left side of the screen (for example) and hear that sound coming from 3' to the left of your TV. It's kinda confusing and takes you out of the experience I've found.

Do you have reference for that? Dolby suggest the same 44-60 degree setup for 5.1 as is common for stereo.

# ¿ Oct 3, 2007 11:04

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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WanderingKid posted:

Its an option if you use a PC as a media hub. Those 10% THD figures have to be some sort of misprint. I have to believe that because I can't believe a major player in the market would peddle a device that is so obviously flawed and overpriced to the extent that I am seeing on numbers alone.

I think it's related to that ridiculous 800W power rating. Around 100W the THD figures are probably pretty normal. I think this is common for cheap systems that need Big Numbers for the ads.

# ¿ Oct 28, 2007 14:36

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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LordPatB posted:

First off: get a good receiver. I'd personally recommend a Denon 1508 or Pioneer. Definitely get something with HDMI 1.3.

Do you have specific reason for that? I don't really see Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD as big improvements for non-audiophiles when the older specs support non-compressed audio anyway. I think HDMI 1.0 is good enough for most people.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hdmi#Versions

# ¿ Nov 9, 2007 13:56

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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oscabat posted:

I'll be honest: I know very little about home theater systems. 2 years ago I received the Pioneer Audio/Video Receiver VSX515, which I connected up to several devices. Now, I want to use it more, by plugging in my powered speakers, and my turntable. But I think that it only accepts passive speakers, so is there anyway that I can connect my powered speakers to it at all? And secondly, when I use my turntable, the sound is so quiet, so I think that means I need an amplifier, right? And if so, what should I look for when I buy one?

Your receiver doesn't have stereo preamp output, so you can either connect the speakers to headphone output or get a device that unamplifies the speaker signal, but I don't remember hearing of such, so they're probably rare. You probably best of selling your current speakers and buying passive ones.

The receiver also lacks a phono input for the turntable, so you need to buy a RIAA-preamplifier. Unless your turntable has it and you need to enable it somehow, but that is doubtful.

# ¿ Nov 14, 2007 13:24

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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oscabat posted:

So do I need something like this?
http://www.outpost.com/entry?sku=2462660

Maybe. Frankly, I didn't understand half of the description and they made it sound more like an opposite of what you want, but this eBay auction describes it as what you want.

# ¿ Nov 15, 2007 10:42

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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Martyr posted:

My question is, considering my receiver, can someone please explain to me what cables (HD & otherwise) I should be using once I install the plasma? Both audio & video - from dvd to receiver, tv to reciever.

Thanking you a lot in advance.

Since you have a receiver I assume you have separate speakers. Run component video cable and S/PDIF coaxial RCA cable from the DVD player to the receiver. Then run another component video to the TV for transferring video and S/PDIF optical cable to transfer audio from DVB-T to the receiver. If you still watch analog TV you also need a RCA stereo audio cable.

# ¿ Dec 16, 2007 00:08

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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.Nathan. posted:

Why wouldn't he just run the component cable straight to the TV? Unless he's pressed for inputs then he doesn't gain anything by putting the receiver in the middle of the video path.

True, I must have been thinking of the "receiver as centerpiece" system.

# ¿ Dec 16, 2007 01:20

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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Chief Rebel Angel posted:

Anyway, does anyone have any ideas at all as to why to optical out isn't working?

edit: OK the HDMI thing worked, but this is retarded and I shouldn't have to do this. One of the things this surround receiver should be able to do is take optical output from the TV so that I don't have to use 2 remotes to switch between the thing I wanna play/watch.

The problem is with your TV. Apparently on most TVs the optical/digital out is only meant for outputting audio from the integrated tuner. Audio that comes in through HDMI will not be passthroughed to the optical out, possibly because of copyright protection.

# ¿ Dec 27, 2007 20:18

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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pim01 posted:

That said, the TA-10 I mentioned before delivers 10 watt per channel effectively into my 4 ohm, 89 dB speakers and I've never felt the need to turn the volume up further than halfway .

According to the specs it's 15W to 4 ohm and 10W to 8 ohm.

# ¿ Jan 23, 2008 12:23

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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Mugmoor posted:

I want to know if you guys know of a way to either delete the spanish track, or set english to the default one.

If you use Haali Media Splitter, then it has an option for setting preferred languages.

# ¿ Jun 12, 2008 19:51

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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SpitoCrono posted:

Is there a way to plug these into a normal plug hole on a keyboard I have?

Keyboard with an audio out? :confused:

# ¿ Aug 14, 2008 17:29

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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Narwhale posted:

Music keyboard?

Haha, of course. Why can't english call it "touchery" as is proper. I can't tell which is more confusing term, keyboard or manual. :eng99:

# ¿ Aug 14, 2008 22:27

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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Hobo Barge posted:

I just inherited a 5.1 receiver from a coworker, and all it needs now is actual speakers. What's the best place to find a set of 5.1 speakers that connect via clips (aside from the sub port which appears to be RCA) on the cheap?

Those are standard speaker connectors. Any normal non-amplified/passive speakers work on it, just buy some inexpensive speaker wire. You have more selection than you can imagine ranging from $50 to a million.

At the minimun you should tell us your price range and your room size, maybe with a drawing of the layout. Most likely you will be adviced to buy the best stereo speakers you can afford and buy the rest later. I suggest this too.

Of course there is the option of building them yourself.

# ¿ Aug 16, 2008 20:54

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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On Unicornback posted:

Thoughts on not using a center channel speaker? I've seen atleast one person in the AV Setups not having one, claiming they are a scam.

While it seems to make sense that stereo speakers should be able to reproduce central sounds, elsewhere online there are claims that this only works if sitting directly in the center.

If you are sitting off-center then center channel sounds will also be off-center. Shouldn't be a problem if you are listening alone.

# ¿ Oct 2, 2008 18:57

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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ChiliMac posted:

This is just an example--I haven't figured out how I'm actually going to set it up yet. But for this example, what do you do about the right rear speaker? (In the picture the "wall" does end there so there is only open space at the end of the couch)

The same you would do with the left rear speaker, just with a longer cable. A cable running behind or under the couch shouldn't be a problem.

# ¿ Oct 3, 2008 22:08

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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On Unicornback posted:

I'm thinking two new bookshelfs for mains (6.5" woofer) and a new center. I'm considering the AV123 XLS-Oncore Monitors and X-CS center ($548.00 + shipping + wait for black finish)

The other setup I'm considering is: KEF IQ3 L/R and the IQ2C for center. I also like that the IQ3 can be bi-amped. ($505 shipped) Does anyone have any experience with KEF speakers? I haven't been able to dig up any useful reviews.

You could also buy three of the same speaker, so you would know they are compatible.

Sniep posted:

Here's a simple question that I hope I'm just being retarded / not looking in the right place...

If I were to set up a mono-block amp set up, 5 amps one for each channel, what pre-amp/source could I use that has Pro Logic II, Dolby Digital, DTS, etc. decoding?

Is there no simple discrete multichannel decoder that can take SPDIF or other digital input and just spit out 6 RCA jack analog line level outputs? What am I missing, here?

Pre-amps are rare and pretty much reserved for special uses and priced accordingly. You'll be better off getting an AV-receiver with preouts. But are you sure you would benefit from the mono-block setup? How big of a home theater are you building?

# ¿ Oct 6, 2008 18:06

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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Bona Weiss posted:

Will do. Not being lazy, just don't own a receiver yet.

Get a receiver that supports HDMI and connect your DVD player to it.

# ¿ Oct 9, 2008 17:01

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

158 posted:

Is there a reason to not use DVI-component?

Also, what is the optical cable called anyways?

DVI to component will require a separate converter device, with HDMI you can just use DVI to HDMI cable. HDMI is also higher quality than component and is capable of carrying digital audio.

# ¿ Jan 3, 2009 17:06

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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Solomon Grundy posted:

So "active" or "powered" means the speakers contain an amp? (Sorry - my audio knowledge peaked in the 1980's). And if I run those speakers from the RCA plugs and set it up through the TV menu, the TV will adjust the volume on the speakers. Got it. Thanks very much for your help.

Yes. Basicly any computer speakers or studio monitors from Behringer or others. If the TV supports adjusting the volume on the RCA output, then that is the best option, but alternatively you could also connect them to the headphone output with suitable canle and that should also work fine.

# ¿ Jan 31, 2009 22:51

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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qirex posted:

Rear speakers are not only supposed to be above the listening position they're supposed to be at the sides, not behind. I don't think for the money you'd really get a heck of a lot out of doing that. Maybe upgrade your fronts instead?

I vaguely remember seeing on the Dolby site different speaker placement instructions and one of them had the speakers on the floor behind couch pointing upwards.

# ¿ May 17, 2009 10:44

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
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tranceMiNuS posted:

So anyway, I browsed Amazon very quickly this morning and came across these: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-SS-B3000-Bookshelf-Speakers-Woofer/dp/B000OG6I6A/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1243612115&sr=1-22

Would I be able to plug those directly into a headphone jack (like the one on my ipod/laptop) or would I have to get an adapter?

Are those even the best choice for what I'm looking for?

I might be making this seem very specific or complicated, it's not. To clarify I just want a simple set of speakers that has some power to it that I can plug directly into my laptop and hopefully not cost much more than $100.

No. Those are unamplified speakers, they need a separate amplifier or receiver to function. You want active speakers. With $100 you're pretty much left with computer speakers or maybe some cheap Behringers. You could also go through garage sales for cheap bookshelves and amp.

# ¿ May 29, 2009 19:55

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

BabyRyoga posted:

I tried confronting this problem last year, but more furniture has made its way into my room since then, and the general layout of all my AV stuff has remained exactly the same. The main problem is that my bass is very weird; it always has been, even when the TV was on the wall across from the window blocking the closet doors, and before I switched out the two cheaper subs for an MWF-15 from AV123. Since then bass has improved monumentally, but it still is very inconsistent from most positions in the room. Here is the layout:

AFAIK, that's how bass pretty much is because of standing waves. The advice I usually hear is to set the subwoofer at your primary listening point and then walk around the room to find the place where the bass sounds best. This is the spot where you should set your subwoofer.

# ¿ Jun 29, 2009 18:04

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

Catsoup posted:

Side question: If the output is 110 watts per channel @ 8 ohms, does that mean I should buy speakers exactly rated for 110 watts? Or could they range between 90-120?

Doesn't really matter. On the amplifier the rating tells how much power they can output and on the speaker it tells how much power it can take in before melting. So as a precaution you could get a higher rated speakers, but it normally shouldn't be a problems. I'd say you wouldn't be using more than maybe 10 watts in normal listening. Just keep the volume away from 11. If you're hearing nasty distortion turn the dial down.

Years ago I read an article in audio magazine where they described different ways how you could break your speakers. Here's what I vaguely remember about it.

First was exceeding the speakers rating and they considered this unlikely. Basically if you transmit too much power over time you would burn or melt the wiring inside voice coils. But since the speakers are rated as continuous average power it will take considerable amounts of power to reach that. IIRC, the example they used was for a amplifier to produce 50 watts of average power it would have to manage ~500 watt peaks. With the sound effects in movies the average power could be higher compared to the peaks, but the ratio would still be significant.

A more common way is to exceed the moving limits of the speaker cones. During loud peaks the cones would try to move outside their safe distance and the voice coil might end up hitting the magnet and bending or the cone could be physically damaged some other way.

Last was clipping or exceeding the power output limits of the amplifier. When you are listening loudly near the limit of the amplifier most of the power is at low frequencies and will be directed to the bass speaker cones. They have thicker wiring and larger moving space so they can easily handle the power. But when you experience clipping the amplifier will produce high frequency distortion and suddenly much more of the power will be directed at the tweeters and they can't handle it.

Corrections appreciated, it's probably been more than a decade since I read the article.

# ¿ Jul 6, 2009 09:22

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

areyoucontagious posted:

As far as TV headphones go, are there any pairs that ~~are worth it~~actually work? Is there any way to rig my TV so that I can listen with a normal pair of headphones? I've got a 19" LCD that I use for gaming, but when my wife is trying to study I can't really turn up the volume like I'd like to. I've looked around on Google, but haven't found anything definitive.

I've never seen a TV that doesn't work with normal headphones, they all have a headphone socket somewhere in the front or the side. Check the manual where it's located on your's. I've seen three different volume controls on them. On some plugging in the headphones automatically mutes the speaker and you can control the volume normally. On others you need to manually mute the speakers but can then adjust the volume normally. On my parent's TV you have to mute the speakers manually and you need to adjust the headphone volume from the TV's settings menu.

# ¿ Jul 18, 2009 13:04

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

Every TV I've ever seen has had a perfectly useable headphone connector in them, it would be the easiest solution.

# ¿ Aug 2, 2009 21:27

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

Caedar posted:

I recently got a motherboard with an HDA port (Gigabyte GA-MA770-UD3), and I hooked it up to my case with a headphone out port. I was wondering if this audio was on par with that of the headphone port of a Chaintech AV-710 with the 96kHz Wolfson DAC line out. Any input?

Probably not. High Definition Audio just means that it follows the newer spec instead of the old AC97, I don't think it makes any quarantees about the actual audio quality.

# ¿ Aug 15, 2009 21:43

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

Sniep posted:

You need to have a mixer involved, or a switch to choose one or the other. Having them connected in that fashion is dangerous for the equipment and will often fail in the manner you are speaking of, if not worse.

Another option is to connect the Xbox to the PC's line input, but that may reduce audio quality depending on how good sound card the PC has.

# ¿ Aug 29, 2009 19:42

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

Expiration Date posted:

I have 2 computers and 1 set of speakers.

what's the best way to get both computers into the same set of speakers? I tried a splitter but apparently that only works to split the other way around like putting 2 sets of headphones on an ipod or whatever. Unless I bought the wrong kind of splitter in which case can someone point me in the right direction?

and I mean simultaneously, not like with an a/b switch. Gotta be able to watch TV on the left and play WoW on the right and all that.

Others explained why Y-splitters aren't suitable. I think there's pretty much two ways to do this. You can buy a mixer to combine the signals or you can connect the secondary PC to the line-in of the primary, but this may cause slight reduction in audio quality.

# ¿ Oct 26, 2009 22:49

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

McKracken posted:

Any advice on how I should go about this or what specifically to look for when shopping for selectors would be much appreciated.

examples of what I found on amazon. Low-end model & High-end model

I think on the cheap model you can only choose which speakers are outputting sound. On the more expensive one you can individually adjust the sound level of the speakers and you can have two separate sources. For example living room and kitchen could be playing the sound from a TV, while other rooms are playing music from a CD. But that probably requires two amplifiers.

# ¿ Nov 10, 2009 23:05

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

Agreed posted:

When I decide to expand the setup I will have to look into exactly what Sony has to offer in center channels that would suit the fronts, I guess. I've just heard that their centers are "alright," while their bookshelves/backs are pretty bad. Who knows, I'll just have to see. Setting up the subwoofer now.

Could you use the same or sibling models raised behind the TV?

# ¿ Dec 20, 2009 22:32

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# ¿ May 4, 2024 04:18

Saukkis: May 16, 2003; Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

Mughe posted:

By behind, I mean slightly above and a foot or two back. I'll take a picture and report the question in a few days when I'm back in my own apartment.

That shouldn't be a problem, but it would probably be beneficial if the speakers were set wider apart.

# ¿ Dec 26, 2009 02:50

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Inspect Your Gadgets > For your listening pleasure: The quick audio questions megathread!

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