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The Relentless posted:I have tried various searches, but I am not sure of the terminology to use nor do I know if this exists. Basically I need an RCA extension with a 1/8th stereo male on the RCA male end. Just because you can adapt it together doesn't mean you should. It sure sounds like you're trying to connect two sources to one destination. Even if only one source is ever turned on at a given time you're still going to get weird (and likely noise inducing) impedence problems eventually. You need a source selector box.
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Dec 12, 2007 00:10
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Colonel J posted:Is there such thing as a compact stereo amp? Right now I have a huge Yamaha CR-450 which I run my computer through, but it's way too bulky for the space I have (takes up half my work space). I looked around on google and couldn't find much; the Kramer 900 seems to be what I need but is a little expensive. Is there anything under 100$? I don't need much power; my speakers are from the 70's, don't even know what brand they are (they're all black). I don't know much about voltage and resistance, I just want to be able to hear my music clearly and loudly. I've been looking at a t-amp for exactly the same reasons but I'm still on the fence about whether its got the power I need. Being "from the 70s" doesn't say anything about your requirements, by the way.
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Jan 21, 2008 19:00
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Colonel J posted:Well, what I meant with the 70's comment was only that they are pretty darn old. I don't know anything else about them ^^ They really are black all over. And all I meant was that age doesn't mean low power requirements.
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Jan 22, 2008 00:42
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pim01 posted:My Trends Audio TA-10 can drive my 89 dB speakers to good volumes. If you don't listen at ear-damaging levels, it's got more than enough power. Should be about $150, and is quite a step up sound-wise (and build-quality wise) from the little battery driven T-amp. I just ordered the Sonic Impact Super-T. I'm really hoping it powers my inefficient Dayton BR-1 kit speakers in all their 88dB glory. I just want this big receiver off my desk, but now as I wait on UPS, I'm starting to worry about the little amp's capabilities.
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Jan 22, 2008 18:21
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Well, I tried the Sonic Impact Super-T, and my gut feeling was right. It doesn't power my inefficient Dayton BR-1s to the high volume levels I occassionally listen at. I know I'm probably listening way too loud and it would probably do my ears good to listen at levels that the t-amp is very capable of, but I've already put my amp up for sale: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2753362
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Jan 26, 2008 05:57
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Hollis Brown posted:Hey I have a question about exceeding the maximum wattage of speakers. My friend brought up a pair of ancient magnavox speakers that have 35W and 8 ohms on the back. My receiver does significantly more than that per channel. And as far as I know, I can't reduce the wattage per channel but I can reduce the decibels. I was just planning on using these as rears because, well, they're free. We consider them to be pretty much disposable, but I don't want to damage my receiver. Is the worst that could happen would be the speakers clipping/blowing? Decibels are a measure of loudness. Wattage is a measure of power. It takes watts to make decibels. Watts are the product of current^2 and resistance. Your speakers have a fixed resistance so to increase loudness, your amplifier increases the current going to the speakers. In short, keep the volume knob under control and you'll be fine.
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Jan 28, 2008 02:25
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wiz crack posted:I run a small mixer through to my laptop and metronome for practice (I'm a drummer). It's hard to say without more details, but it could be as simple as a pan knob turned all te way to one side.
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Nov 27, 2009 04:32
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That's sort of a question that I can answer as an expert. I make my living mixing audio for live sporting events on TV. Typically when an event is being aired on a multi-regional network, national commercial spots are played on location, and then we sit in black leaving a hole for individual affiliates to insert local ads. The "money reels" I have to deal with are -always- a pain. Dubs of dubs of spots from different production companies of various levels of professionalism. They show up on every recording format you can imagine, from digi beta to VHS, and someone at the network office organizes them into specific sets of breaks and dumps everything to one tape. As the audio guy, I try my best to make everything match the average loudness of my program audio, but it's really something that has to be done by ear; There's just no way around it. To a certain extent I can try to pick the loudest ad and the quietest, then set up a compressor (dynamic range, not data) to bring them closer together, but it's easy for that to get out of control and things start to sound squished. Sometimes there are even such wide variations between the left and right channels that I have yo just run all the ads in mono. Believe me, I feel your pain. I wish I could take a 'break' during the breaks instead of chasing levels. On top of all that, local affiliates get their raw ads for Jerry's Muffler in even worse shape, then they just dump them into a computer to run automatically without a second thought. I doubt your home theater has any sort of compressor/limiter option, but that's really your only solution. DBX makes a little plastic portable unit that can take unbalanced inputs, but it's not cheap.
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Dec 19, 2009 14:30
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I actually use Vyvx all the time.
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Dec 20, 2009 15:16
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productwiki says the Yamaha in that ebay link is more commonly known as the RX-V465. The HTR model number may be what they call it when it comes as part of a HTIB, but I'm not sure.
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Dec 25, 2009 05:21
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Siliziumleben posted:
Such a thing certainly does exist. There's the classic do-it-yourself CMOY design, or the PA2V2. Both of those can be found on ebay from reputable builders.
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Dec 30, 2009 00:53
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TEAC is a solid company. They especially make some nice mid-pro gear under their TASCAM name.
eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jan 5, 2010 |
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Jan 5, 2010 03:52
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andy17null posted:I'm using a pair of JPL Control 1 Pro's. If you're trying to put together a professional setup, any old single rack-unit amp will work. My standard recommendation is the Crown D-45, but it would we wayyy overkill for Control 1's. It's not hard to find those speakers used for under $40 a pair and they really aren't big performers. Factoring in the cost of an amp might make just putting them aside and buying a set of cheap active speakers a more attractive idea.
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Jan 6, 2010 16:58
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andy17null posted:I'm using a pair of JPL Control 1 Pro's. buy this: http://cgi.ebay.com/BGW-Model-85-St...c2#ht_500wt_924
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Jan 7, 2010 08:08
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What receiver is it? I would suspect that the RCAs you're looking at are pre-amp outputs if it's a model sold in the last few decades.
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Jan 8, 2010 17:50
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Well, that probably falls outside of my "last few decades" qualifier. The only real drawback to RCA connectors, especially at the low power that thing can probably output, will be solderable surface area. You'll just be limited in the size of speaker wire you can use, but that probably wont be a huge issue either. As for the banana plugs, they really offer two tangible benefits: they make repeat connections easier, and depending on the plugs you buy, they can help mate a lower gauge speaker cable to small speaker binding posts. I don't think either of those would be huge benefits in your setup, so I wouldn't worry about it unless you're already making a monoprice order when they have their sets for $1/pair.
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Jan 8, 2010 22:32
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I would opt for a set of passive speakers and an old stereo receiver/small amp/t-amp. Put the amp as close to your computer as possible to minimize the distance the low-level unbalanced signal has to travel. Once amplified to a speaker level, the signal will be MUCH less susceptible to interference. Thats the same solution I'd offer to someone fighting cell phone data noise.
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Jan 9, 2010 20:45
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Plain speakers. No built in amp, no power switch, no volume knob. Speakers that you hook to an amplifier or receiver.
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Jan 11, 2010 02:19
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Deceptor101 posted:Ok, thanks, that's good to know. One last question before I buy tons of feet of wire, What's the deal with the Oxygen-Free wire? I figure I might as well get good stuff if it'll make a difference, but it looks like it's not a huge price difference so I can't imagine it does. The processes used to remove oxygen from the copper just remove impurities that can raise the wire's resistance. The difference is so minor that I wouldn't waste my money if it cost any more, but I'm pretty happy with the roll of monoprice's 12AWG speaker wire that they happen to list as oxygen-free. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 09:45 on Jan 18, 2010 |
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Jan 18, 2010 09:34
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So long as it's marked for polarity.
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Jan 18, 2010 19:54
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Long shot question: has anyone ever ordered cable or adapters from https://www.pulsartech.net I tempted by their $30 25" 8 channel XLR snake, but also a little suspicious of the quality. That's way cheaper than I can make it myself.
eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Jan 23, 2010 |
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Jan 20, 2010 04:15
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They're relays turning off speakers that won't be used with the current input, leaving more power for the ones that will. I've never played with that unit, but can you force it into a surround mode, rather than the auto mode it seems to be in? If you're lucky it might even remember your setting per-input. I know my Pioneer can, so I don't think it's an unreasonable expectation.
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Jan 22, 2010 03:13
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eddiewalker posted:Long shot question: has anyone ever ordered cable or adapters from https://www.pulsartech.net I tempted by their $30 25" 8 channel XLR snake, but also a little suspicious of the quality. That's way cheaper than I can make it myself. Answering my own question: don't bother. The snake I ordered had cold solder joints everywhere. The various XLR adapters had no plating whatsoever and are already showing the beginnings of oxidation. The worst, however, were the bulk XLR connectors, which were knockoff Neutrik pieces, except so cheap that by the time the pins were hot enough accept solder, the surrounding plastic had melted and the pins splayed out in all directions. I had to throw out every third one. I should have known better.
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Jan 23, 2010 01:06
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You only mentioned recording a guitar. That'd be pretty straightforward with a binary release of Audacity. Are you wanting to do something more complicated like multitrack recordings that would really need the low latency from ASIO support? Just asking to get a better idea of what level of app you're looking for.
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Jan 26, 2010 06:14
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Also, that word impedance again. Video signals are almost always designed for a 75 ohm cable. Those cheap red/white/yellow combo cables that came breadtied in your VCR box 15 years ago were manufactured without any thought for impedance and the video line is identical to the audio. They cause signal loss, but with a standard-def run only a few feet long, you probably couldn't notice. Cheap RCA connectors are typically 25 ohm, and who knows what's going on in the wire. Those bottlenecks add up to cause return lossA, and if it's bad enough, there's not enough video on the other end of the hose to make a good picture. Honestly, though, making a good 75 ohm video cable with RCA connectors is almost a lost cause. Solder on RCA connectors were only designed for audio and their asymmetrical contacts are a testament to that. Canare makes a pretty good 75ohm RCA connector for analog video, but it's still no match for an F or a BNC. Luckily analog video is almost gone.
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Jan 26, 2010 20:09
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Sounds like your receiver is simply passing on the left and right of the surround mix, which has dialog exclusively to the center speaker. The only solution I can imagine is to try and choose an alternate audio track on the PS3 in hopes that the source has an actual stereo mix included.
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Jan 27, 2010 16:53
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Every radio reporter I know has dumped their trusty minidisc recorder for a Zoom H4. That said, a minidisc recorder might suit you just great. All the units I've played with have had the option to to record in mono, doubling capacity and battery life should be fine, especially if you throw some lithiums in a unit that runs on AA cells.
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Feb 2, 2010 21:50
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Hippie Hedgehog posted:I would not recommend minidisc recorders (with a recording time of what,154 minutes in mono?) that use an archaic medium which I haven't seen in a store for 5 years, over a solid-state device which uses SD/SDHC cards which are cheap and common as grass these days, and can fit days of compressed audio on one chip -- particularly since MD has moving parts with all that that implies in terms of durability. I really couldn't tell tell how invested the guy is in the project, so why not at least throw out what could be viable under $50 at this point? Then again, I still carry around a stack of Zip100 discs as one of my preferred audio recording mediums. (A number of TV networks, notably ESPN, still cling to the DigiCart format for sending element music out to remotes.) Later netMD players had a USB connection, but I'll admit that I've never tried it, and it may well be a real-speed connection limited to Sony software.
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Feb 3, 2010 12:21
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stupid little gayby posted:I have a harman/kardon 330c stereo receiver and the right audio channel isn't working. How do I fix this / how much will this cost to be fixed My car won't start. What's wrong with it?
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Feb 9, 2010 05:40
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My point still stands. It could be some massive failure that would cost more in parts and labor for a repair shop to fix than the unit is worth, or it could be a some simple weak wire connection that eventually fatigued enough to come loose. There's really no way for anyone to say over the internet.
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Feb 9, 2010 16:29
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ddogflex posted:Stupid question alert: My sub has L/R inputs but my receiver has a single coax output for the sub. Is it OK to just plug it in the one of the channels or do I need to get a splitter? Chances are pretty good the two inputs on your sub are just looped together anyway.
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Feb 12, 2010 02:09
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Stick your finger in one ear, then walk between two speakers. If one is wired backwards, then you should sense that it becomes quieter when you're an equal distance from the speakers. In fact, if you take two identical speakers playing the same thing and set them facing each other a few inches apart, then the waves will almost completely cancel out, and you'll hear surprisingly little no matter how loud you turn them up.
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Feb 14, 2010 07:21
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While I don't know the specifics of that receiver, I would suggest taking it out of the auto format sensing mode it seems to be in and force it to use an appropriate digital mode. That should be a per-input setting.
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Feb 18, 2010 13:53
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NOT PICTURED posted:Yeah, it's an older CD changer and an LP player, they only do RCA. What's involved in converting RCA to optical? I'm assuming there's some signal processing to be done since it's analogue->digital. That's a bad idea. (D>A>D>A)
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Feb 20, 2010 17:11
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Uthor posted:What gauge wire do I need? I'm going to have about 6 feet from the receiver to each speaker. I'm thinking 16AWG. I'll say it again: Monoprice has some good banana connectors for a few bucks, and they put them on sale for under a dollar pretty often. Their open-screw style feel much higher quality than the closed-screw, especially for larger wire. No, you don't absolutely need them, but they do help keep loose strands from shorting your receiver. For spring-clip jacks too small for banana clips, Monoprice's pin connectors are very handy too.
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Feb 27, 2010 19:43
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qirex posted:Are there any brands that let you disable inputs you're not using? Pioneer, at least around the $500 range.
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Mar 1, 2010 19:42
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The Flying Clog Wog posted:Maybe i misunderstood you from the start. It's true that you will have to run a cable to your tv for each type of source. So if you're using HDMI sources an HDMI cable, but if you've also got a composite source you'll also have to run a composite cable from your AVR to your TV. It doesn't upscale. This doesn't mean that you can't connect a lot of devices... Be aware of the terminology, as "upscale" and "upconvert" mean two different thing, and using the words interchangeably can become confusing. For example, my Pioneer can upconvert analog sources to HDMI but also let's me choose to use the source resolution, or upscale to 1080p.
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Mar 2, 2010 18:27
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INSERT COIN posted:the ability to tell the difference between high and low freq. I also value the ability to distinguish sound.
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Mar 14, 2010 21:48
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That's not static. It's white noise: a signal with equal energy across the audible range, so that you can make an accurate judgement as you adjust. Why would you want to make changes based on source material that you've only ever heard played on other equipment that probably wasn't that accurate anyway? If you're just wanting a cartoonish "bass boost" or to draw on whatever your preconceived notion of a "proper" EQ curve is, adjust away, but you're defeating the purpose of the MCACC. If more bass is all you're wanting, be aware that there's a simple LFE gain that you can get to on the front panel menu, without even digging into the OSD.
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Mar 15, 2010 03:55
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You HAVE a graphic EQ. You've found it. Adjust it as much as you want. What I'm saying is that the "static" is a tool to aid you while doing so.
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Mar 15, 2010 05:58
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