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ejstheman posted:I'm aware that 2W of actual acoustic energy is enough to cause extreme pain in a bedroom listening environment. Speakers are pretty inefficient, generally, aren't they? I wasn't planning on turning the thing up very much. My primary concern was to match what's printed on my speakers, because I'm told that the waveforms that overtaxed amplifiers produce can harm tweeters. Is that inaccurate? The amplifier isn't over taxed by speakers, it's overtaxed by you turning it up! It goes for any amplifier to not max it all the way out, as a clipped signal can/will damage the drivers. A 100W rated amp playing at 10W output is no different for your speakers than a 50W or 5000W amp playing at 10W. The bottom line is to make sure there's more power in the amp than you plan on using, but it doesn't need to be excessive. sidenote : I'm running an amp I built into generic Sony bookshelf speakers right now for my computer speakers, and at 1 watt, it's just as loud as you could tolerate. They're 85dB/W/m speakers, and at 1 watt from my amp and a little less than 1 meter listening position, it's obviously louder than 85dB. The speakers are rated 120W, and sound just as good as they do when they're hooked up to a 100W amp.
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Apr 9, 2007 05:19
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Rescue Toaster posted:Perhaps... 91db? Two amp channels gives you 3db gain and two times the radiating area (two speakers) gives you another 3db gain. I was just giving an estimate...sitting at 70cm gives me another 3.09dB, if you wanna get technical.
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Apr 9, 2007 15:54
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ejstheman posted:wattage has a vague inverse relationship to the often undocumented efficiency. What's the thinking behind this? I have some Peavey speakers rated for 320W peak and their sensitivity is 97 dB at 1W/1m (TLS 1X I believe). Most other speakers i own are 100W handling with around 89dB/W/m...?
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Apr 10, 2007 04:12
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ejstheman posted:Well poo poo, maybe it was a misconception on my part. Wouldn't be the first. So I guess the real issue here is: what is the efficiency of the speakers that I have now, and what is the objective intensity of my preferred listening level. 95dB would be about the sound of an orchestra up close, 115dB would be about the front row of a rock concert. Your speakers are most likely between 85 and 90dB/W/1m. Here's a page from my notes a couple of years ago: http://www2.tech.purdue.edu/Eet/courses/eet257/Lecture%20Notes/33-Audio_Principles.pdf Page 3 shows a relative scale, and explains the dB and power increase for how much volume increases. UserNotFound fucked around with this message at 13:02 on Apr 13, 2007 |
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Apr 12, 2007 21:29
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UFO posted:Thank you very much for the info, question now, would this work for my subwoofer? http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/product/detail/0,,2076_4055_77659845,00.html Well it's intended for use in a car, so good luck finding a 12V DC power source for in your home than can handle 16 amps instantaneous current. You're much better off buying a sub with built in amp(and they're be easier to find), or getting a receiver with an amp channel dedicated for a subwoofer.
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Apr 28, 2007 19:05
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pim01 posted:What sort of adapter do you need, then? To your phone's proprietary system, something like this thing for some sony-ericsson phones? I believe he means he needs to adapt 2x 3.5mm, into a single 2.5mm that carries both mic and audio.
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Sep 18, 2008 15:09
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pim01 posted:So like this thing but with the mic channel connected to a seperate 3.5 mm connector? I can't seem to find any with a quick search - it'd be dead easy to solder one together yourself, though Actually for a phone it would not need the 4 connector type, as you only need mic/audio/ground. If the xbox audio is stereo, you would need 4 connections: mic/L/R/gnd. It's gonna be easier to buy plugs and DIY for whatever he wants, I believe.
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Sep 18, 2008 15:26
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Phrog posted:Can anybody tell me what the scientific name and highly-specialized function of this piece of particle board that came out of my speaker is? The wood is probably just a brace glued in to the corner. It's conceivable that the structure is compromised, but if the corners seem solid I wouldn't worry too much. You should be able to remove the drivers with the four screws around each. Take the bottom(working) one out, it should just be spade plugs so the wires come off easily. Listen to just the top driver and stick your hand in to check the wiring on the top, If it doesn't seem to wrok, pull the top one out, and put the good one back in the top to make sure the problem is the driver itself. If it sounds good plugged in to the top, you can send just the bad driver back to Polk for replacement, and save a LOT on shipping. You should be able to look/feel in the top of the speaker while the drivers are out to see if that's where the wood is from, and glue it back if you like. I blew a tweeter on one of my Polk's some 4 years after I bought them, and they replaced just the tweeter no questions asked. TL;DR: Polk warranty is awesome, isolate the problem to save on shipping. UserNotFound fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Jan 7, 2010 |
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Jan 7, 2010 16:24
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