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Panty Saluter posted:What kind of TV, and have you tried a different source (Bluray/Cable) and/or a different input?
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# ? Apr 17, 2015 13:28 |
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# ? May 4, 2024 20:01 |
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Relin posted:Vizio ...something? I don't know if it's LCD or LED or what. The cable came out of the PS4 box but I think I have another HDMI cable around I could try when I get home, plus the 360 Try a different HDMI input, too.
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# ? Apr 17, 2015 17:25 |
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What's the best streaming/casting device at the moment? It seems like I need something between the Chromecast and Roku. I have a Windows 7 laptop and desktop, an Android phone and my girlfriend has a Mac and an iPhone. Ideally we could cast from all of these devices. Chromecast is almost there but can only cast Chrome tabs which is limiting and Roku sounds even worse when it comes to casting.
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# ? May 5, 2015 06:32 |
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This might not be a quick question. If it's not, my quick question will be "where is a better place for this question?" I recently upgraded my receiver to one that has HDMI switching so I don't have massive piles of component cables lying around. Yay! The problem is, around the same time (my wife insists it started before the new receiver, but I have no recollection), the signal would occasionally start to flicker and blip out. It tends not to happen right away, but only after watching for a bit, which originally made me suspect something heat-related, but I don't have any conclusive evidence. Symptoms vary: - Sometimes, video goes black but audio remains, and the picture might come back after a short period. - Sometimes, the video signal turns to "snow" (which I assume is simulated). Audio still remains, but the video signal never comes back. Things that have "fixed" the issue in the short term include: - Turning the receiver off and back on - Unplugging and replugging any HDMI cable in the path Does this make sense to anyone? Does HDMI have some kind of initial "handshake" that I'm forcing it to redo by power cycling? My wife suspects our TV, which is just about the oldest part of our home theater, but we want to sanity check before we buy a new one and end up with the same issue. Any direction towards resources to study/troubleshooting guides to look at would also be appreciated.
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# ? Jun 17, 2015 00:46 |
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First thought is to check for a firmware update for the receiver. HDMI is a weird, finicky thing sometimes and firmware can make or break compatibility really easily.
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# ? Jun 17, 2015 01:39 |
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Could try other HDMI cables if you have any. I've had some similar issues on my TV and it seems to be one or two of my inputs being bastards and drop a lot. Or the cables. Or some mystery HDMI goblin. HDMI issues are a pain.
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# ? Jun 17, 2015 02:19 |
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HDMI does have a handshake and that is what you are reestablishing by plugging and unplugging. Basically, just get the receiver out of the equation altogether if possible. Then test each component individually. Get your Bluray or cable box or whatever and plug it straight into the TV input. Leave it playing. If it breaks, that's either your TV or the cable. Then repeat with a different input on the TV (it's possibly a loose solder on one input that gets exacerbated by heat). Then repeat with a different cable. Then repeat with a different source device. If you still get no signal after each of those steps, then toss the TV. If one of those steps doesn't cause the problem, then you've narrowed down the issue (bad cable, bad source device). Finally, introduce the receiver and repeat the same process.
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# ? Jun 17, 2015 22:35 |
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SIHappiness posted:HDMI does have a handshake and that is what you are reestablishing by plugging and unplugging. Ugh. I know this is the right answer. I just wish it were more repeatable so I could be sure I wasn't getting false negatives. Thanks for the advice, everyone.
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# ? Jun 18, 2015 00:18 |
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I want to be able to play PC games in both my office, where the comfy chair and good keyboard/mouse are, and the living room, where the couch and huge TV are. I don't, however, want to buy and maintain a second gaming PC. Up to today I've tried various streaming, Remote Desktop, etc. contrivances, and all have been hosed in some fashion, be it input lag, audio delay, or just plain not working. Then I realized, why don't I just run some loving cable. I want to set up something like this, where all lines are HDMI cables: pre:-PC monitor / PC -- HDMI Splitter - \ - Cat5e extender (~60ft) -- Livingroom HDMI Switch -- TV and soundbar (latter via digital optical) (While I'm at it, and I know this is off topic, anyone know how well USB over Cat5e extenders work? Same reason.) Ciaphas fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Jun 25, 2015 |
# ? Jun 25, 2015 00:06 |
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Ciaphas posted:I want to be able to play PC games in both my office, where the comfy chair and good keyboard/mouse are, and the living room, where the couch and huge TV are. I don't, however, want to buy and maintain a second gaming PC. Up to today I've tried various streaming, Remote Desktop, etc. contrivances, and all have been hosed in some fashion, be it input lag, audio delay, or just plain not working. Then I realized, why don't I just run some loving cable. I don't know how much, but it is reasonable to assume every additional link in your cable (including the splitter) will introduce some latency. My gut tells me it will probably be too much for gaming, but I haven't actually tried something like this, so it might be worth a shot.
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# ? Jun 25, 2015 19:13 |
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KnifeWrench posted:I don't know how much, but it is reasonable to assume every additional link in your cable (including the splitter) will introduce some latency. My gut tells me it will probably be too much for gaming, but I haven't actually tried something like this, so it might be worth a shot. I did the measuring last night, and it turned out to be 40ft instead of 60ft, so I just ordered a good HDMI cable and powered splitter from Monoprice, and skipped the Cat5e extender. Should get here tomorrow, so I suppose I'll find out if it lags or not for myself!
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# ? Jun 25, 2015 22:06 |
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I'd be more concerned about the Cat5 extender. That's mostly for distributed video so latency is not a concern in their design. If you just have a 40 ft HDMI cable I don't see that adding a meaningful delay. As long as the controller has good reception it should work just fine.
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# ? Jun 25, 2015 22:14 |
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I got all the cabling I needed today from Monoprice (goddamn they ship fast), and so far so good. Except for cable's unerring power to tangle up without human intervention (Pratchett [RIP] called it Malignity, I think--good word), worked without a hitch. So hooray for that.
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# ? Jun 26, 2015 18:52 |
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I am debating on what TV to get. I have boiled it down to these two. I'm using this for 75% watching movies and 25% playing console games. The Smart TV functionality doesn't matter much since I have a console. What TV should I get? http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN32J5003-32-Inch-1080p-Model/dp/B00V0923TG http://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-E32-C1-...=vizio+e+series
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# ? Jul 23, 2015 19:16 |
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This is a really long shot, but here goes anyway: I just got a used VCR for digitizing some VHS tapes, a Panasonic NV-HS1000 to be exact. Only problem: whichever output I use (SCART, composite or s-video), it will only play back audio, displaying a black picture. If I hook up a camera to the front inputs, the camera's input is displayed just fine. It's only bringing up the OSD and playing back VHS tapes which results in a black screen. I've already cleaned the VCR heads, but they weren't very dirty to begin with so this didn't help. Anyone got an idea what could be going on?
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# ? Jul 25, 2015 19:05 |
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I have a Qsee DVR system for my home security cameras. Whats the cheapest way I can back up some video to the cloud? Don't need to store too much, it only records when motion is detected.
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# ? Sep 29, 2015 05:37 |
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madkapitolist posted:I have a Qsee DVR system for my home security cameras. Whats the cheapest way I can back up some video to the cloud? Don't need to store too much, it only records when motion is detected. Searching their page, Qsee seems to have numerous products that likely have a variety of features, so it's a little hard to make a recommendation. Can you access individual files using a file browser (i.e. can you connect to it over the network via Windows explorer or similar)?
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# ? Sep 29, 2015 23:13 |
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I have a QT5682-4v3-1, I have it set up over network so I can view the cameras on mobile devices I have not checked to see if windows explorer can access it.
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# ? Oct 1, 2015 02:32 |
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Looking at the remote monitoring setup guide, it would appear that much of the management is handled via a browser plugin. That doesn't inspire confidence that you'll have easy network access. The remote monitoring software does include a manual "backup" feature that will download the files over the network to your local computer. It doesn't look like it can be scripted to do this automatically. So you'll likely have to download them manually once a week (or whatever time frame you prefer) to a folder on your PC that is synced to the cloud.
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# ? Oct 2, 2015 23:17 |
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Lovable Luciferian posted:I am debating on what TV to get. I have boiled it down to these two. I'm using this for 75% watching movies and 25% playing console games. The Smart TV functionality doesn't matter much since I have a console. What TV should I get? I would go with the Vizio. It has a higher refresh rate.
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# ? Oct 4, 2015 20:08 |
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Gruknor posted:I would go with the Vizio. It has a higher refresh rate. quote:Clear Action 240 w/ 120Hz Effective Refresh Rate "Effective" kind of bothers me. This means it actually syncs at 60 Hz, I'm sure... http://www.vizio.com/e32c1.html Yeah, Vizio is being charmingly coy on this one. http://cdn.vizio.com/documents/e32c1/um-e32c1.pdf OTOH, the manual says this model has 120 Hz refresh straight up. Like if the TV can do it, why tap dance around it? Is the panel not fully capable of 120 Hz even if the TV syncs at it?
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# ? Oct 4, 2015 21:02 |
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Eh, the biggest advantage to 120 Hz is getting native 24FPS on movies, anyways.
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# ? Oct 4, 2015 23:31 |
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Either of the tvs are worth buying if they meet all your criteria. I am also trying to figure out which tv to get, I just started researching them today. I want a tv for my room that will be used to watch netflix, video games and movies. I also do not want to go over $700, things of a lower price are accepted. My problem is that tvs with barely noticable input lag are expensive and have horrible. I am looking at a UN40JU6700, but I still have no idea what to buy. I am not sure if this is the place to rant about this, but I am. Also which tv should i buy? I mostly watch movies and play video games on my tv.
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# ? Oct 4, 2015 23:45 |
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What media boxes will switch to 24 Hz? My old WDTV would but it's so slow it's very hard to use these days. The Fire TV doesn't support frame rate switching for some reason
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# ? Oct 4, 2015 23:52 |
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Is there a good HDMI cable that can handle sharp turns well? Basically the hole in my wall that I want to run cables through is about 6-10 inches above where my HDMI ports are. However, the HDMI ports point straight down, so it'll be a tight 180* turn to go directly up, and then another 180* turn to go through and down into the wall. All within 1" of space between the wall and the TV. The first cable I used (something generic and cheap) I lost a lot of the picture because of the sharp turns. Any recommendations would be great !
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# ? Nov 16, 2015 18:52 |
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There are flat hdmi cables. You can also put hdmi over cat6
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# ? Nov 16, 2015 20:40 |
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Panty Saluter posted:What media boxes will switch to 24 Hz? My old WDTV would but it's so slow it's very hard to use these days. The Fire TV doesn't support frame rate switching for some reason My (probably older) briteview cinema tube would. Plex via a chromecast will as well.
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# ? Nov 16, 2015 20:56 |
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sellouts posted:There are flat hdmi cables. You can also put hdmi over cat6 This might be the move... Thanks!
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# ? Nov 16, 2015 23:07 |
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bows1 posted:This might be the move... Thanks! The maximum bend radius of Cat6 is 4x the diameter of the cable. A typical Cat6 cable is ~1/4", so you need at least 2 inches to go 180 degrees. Also, you would need somewhere to put the converter box behind said TV (and that first bend out of the port would still need to be HDMI). http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=3733 KillHour fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Nov 17, 2015 |
# ? Nov 17, 2015 01:29 |
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I'm after a recommendation for a good affordable digital camcorder.
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# ? Dec 3, 2015 01:44 |
I'm looking to get a Blu-ray player for my parents for Christmas; they're not audiophiles or anything so just a regular player will be fine. However, I've always been converting old family VHS tapes in secret, to .mp4 files. Are there any $50~ players that you can plug a flash drive or external hard drive into to have it play .mp4 files? If not, what would an alternative be? Their TV has a USB port but I haven't had a chance to test it yet. They'll still be able to watch the videos on their computer but through the TV would be nice if possible. EDIT: Nevermind, I found one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA87V32R0131 Admiral Joeslop fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Dec 9, 2015 |
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# ? Dec 9, 2015 21:55 |
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Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this question (I tried to look for an appropriate thread on several subforums but didn't find one): Any recommendations (based on experience) for cheapish cameras to make youtubes that don't look and/or sound like poo poo with? Or, of course, a pointer to an appropriate thread if you know where one is. I've looked at a few based on what people who make youtubes that look and sound OK use but they're usually old and out of stock already.
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# ? Feb 18, 2016 13:17 |
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I have a Sony Cybershot that does 1080p and I like it alot for both still pics and YouTube video. It cost me $30ish used. I have also owned a Canon, great pics, horrible battery life. A JVC camcorder, field of view wasn't wide enough. And something else, can't remember the brand; but the Sony is my favorite so far.
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# ? Feb 18, 2016 23:50 |
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This is maybe the dumbest question ever. I have an Onkyo HT-RC160, and for some reason it wants to be on the TV/tape input. I'm using a Harmony remote to control everything, and it'll turn on everything correctly, but whether it's Xbox or cable TV, the thing switches from the right input to tv/tape, and I have to manually switch have back to the correct input. Everything is connected via HDMI, and nothing has changed recently, but it's been an issue for a while. I've got to be missing something obvious, right?
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# ? Apr 7, 2016 03:00 |
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Nostratic posted:This is maybe the dumbest question ever. I had a similar issue with my Onkyo that I fixed by changing my device startup order. I can't remember what device was doing it, but the IR code for "turn on" was similar enough to "input x" on the Onkyo that it would trigger it. I changed it so the receiver turned on last (you can also add delays if needed I think) and everything was fine. Hopefully that's the same thing that's happening to you.
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# ? Apr 7, 2016 03:08 |
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Nostratic posted:This is maybe the dumbest question ever. Does the Onkyo turn on when a source key is pressed? If it does the Harmony may be programmed to use the TV/tape button to turn the receiver on. Can you manually edit the Harmony's program?
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# ? Apr 7, 2016 03:10 |
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KnifeWrench posted:I had a similar issue with my Onkyo that I fixed by changing my device startup order. I can't remember what device was doing it, but the IR code for "turn on" was similar enough to "input x" on the Onkyo that it would trigger it. Hmmm. I'll have to look into this tonight. I'm trying to remember if it started after we got the most recent Harmony or before... it's been about a year now, and we haven't really used the AV receiver much until recently. Panty Saluter posted:Does the Onkyo turn on when a source key is pressed? If it does the Harmony may be programmed to use the TV/tape button to turn the receiver on. Can you manually edit the Harmony's program? Yeah, it's set up so the remote turns on everything. I can change the order things power on, delays, what input they select, etc. I'll have to fiddle with it and see what's what. I mean, I guess the easy solution would be to just add a button for the cable input on the menu, but why do that when I can take an hour or two making minute changes to the remote settings to see if that works, right?
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# ? Apr 7, 2016 22:58 |
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Posted this in the Android thread but I think this is the one I was supposed to post in. I'm looking for a way to record HD/lossless video and audio from my Droid Turbo 2, ideally in a way that would let me hook up to my Elgato HD60 via HDMI but I'm not sure if that's an option at this point. The phone has no HDMI output and I don't think it's MHL capable either, also screen recording apps on the App Store suck since none of them can access system audio thanks to Google. Also looked into Chromecast and apparently that's hot garbage too. What are my options?
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# ? Apr 8, 2016 02:22 |
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Turns out CEC was turned on at the TV. Turned it off, and lo my inputs don't wander
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# ? Apr 14, 2016 03:54 |
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# ? May 4, 2024 20:01 |
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Ah, HDMI-CEC. Such a great idea so badly implemented by literally everyone
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# ? Apr 14, 2016 04:18 |