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Crazedscot posted:Yes, it's me again with another inane cat question that's probably been answered somewhere else several times but I can't for the life of me find. Was just watching my cat use the litterbox out of the corner of my eye and was slightly concerned to see her get back in after producing the usual firm nuggets and deposit a foul smelling soft sticky mess. Her diet hasn't been changed at all, the only thing I can think of that's been out of the norm is the handful of outdoor grass from the park I brought in for her to munch on. Could this be the cause? Is it something I should be immediately concerned about? I'll take her to the vet first thing but for the moment i'm just wondering if i should be concerned beyond keeping an eye on her and praying she doesn't poo poo all over my bed in the middle of the night. I'd chalk it up to either the grass itself, or possibly something that rode in on the grass, or possibly just a bad poo day. Grass at parks can be pretty filthy; I just read a disturbing fact sheet that reported the amount of bacteria found at one of the local dog parks. As far as your cat goes, it could be any number of things, including stress, but I wouldn't rush to the vet over one day of loose stools. Keep an eye on her for sure, though, and contact your vet if it keeps up or you start seeing other weird symptoms.
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Jul 2, 2008 23:17
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Crazedscot posted:My cat hasn't pooped again yet since the diahorrea a couple of nights ago, how long should I wait roughly before I start to let it worry me? She's eating and drinking and behaving normally as far as I can tell. I'd have expected a stool sample for analysis by now given how regular she's been up till now and the decent amount of dry food she's eaten over the past 24 hours. So she hasn't pooped in 2 days? I say get thee to a vet. Animals are good at hiding that they're in pain, and there could be an intestinal blockage or something else weird going on in there.
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Jul 4, 2008 15:16
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Jive One posted:My current assumption is that to be listed on the AKC website(or a subsite for a particular breed's club), a breeder must meet certain requirements and thus by extension be worth purchasing from. However while searching the site I came across this: The thing that PI usually recommends is that the breeders be on the national breed club's breeder referral list. That means that those particular breeders have agreed to their club's breeders' code of ethics. This code of ethics is meant to exclude people breeding strictly for profit, or for all the 1000 other reasons that most people in PI find objectionable. On the other hand, the AKC itself has no problem registering puppymill puppies, BYB litters, and like you already mentioned, the AKC registration doesn't mean anything in itself. The AKC has a classifieds section that doesn't require anything except that the puppies be in an AKC litter. An AKC listed breeder could be Joe Schmo from next door breeding his puppymill Golden Retriever to Bob Tardo's Golden down the street. There's should be no assumption that the AKC listed breeders are breeding for quality puppies.
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Jul 7, 2008 23:32
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RFX posted:I have two dogs that we picked up from a shelter about a year and a half ago. We know they are part Cairn Terrier (or at least thats what the shelter told us), but we have no clue on the other; they are siblings, though they look pretty different. I noticed that one of them (the male) can not perk his ears up. He can slide them a bit forward/backward, but thats it. His sister meanwhile can do the normal dog ear stuff, raising them up and whatnot. Different terriers have different ear types, so it may just be a result of being a mixed breed dog. I raised a litter of mixed breed pups, and they all ended up with very different looking ears.
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Jul 21, 2008 15:51
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Happy Bear Suit posted:Hey Goons, thanks a lot for answering my previous questions! Swimming in a pool can be a great way for a dog to exercise, especially older dogs with joint issues. Pools can be dangerous though, especially when the dog isn't 100% supervised. I'd make sure that you specifically take the time to teach the dog where the exits are in the pool, as well as making sure there is a clear visual marker at eye-level for the dog. There are pool ramps designed for dogs, which would be a good step towards making the pool as safe as possible. I'd urge you to get and use a doggy life-jacket, too (not all breeds are buoyant) Even good swimmers have gotten confused, then exhausted, and drowned in a pool. You should learn how to do CPR on your dog, just in case. As far as the chlorine and other pool chemicals go, this probably depends on your dog's coat. I've seen it recommended that you rinse your dog with fresh water before and after swimming. Wipe out your dog's ears after swimming. Remember that dogs get sunburned too. Have fun, but be safe. 
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Jul 24, 2008 17:39
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McDougirl posted:I know I've seen similar questions here before, but I can't seem to find them. Your dog shouldn't wear a harness 24/7. Have you considered that she may even be chewing them off because they are uncomfortable for her to wear all of the time?
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Jul 31, 2008 16:18
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VikingKitten posted:Did you seriously just say that? I think I love you.
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Aug 1, 2008 03:58
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Nannypea posted:I have a 6mth old chocolate lab-ish that is very energetic. We play ball and Frisbee but no mater how much I work him he's ready to go again in 20 mins. I work from home and he doesn't understand that I cannot play all the time because I need to work to make money to buy him bones. Would getting another dog help by giving him someone else to play with or would it just mean I had 2 dogs that now want my undivided attention? I would wait 6 months or so before getting another dog. Sometimes a second dog just makes things worse, for example 1 barking/spazzing dog turns into the pair of them getting all riled up. Bad habits also spread like a freaking disease, so its ideal if you get the first one trained in obedience so it'll serve as a good example to the new dog. As far as working from home goes, I would get a couple of interactive treats and use them to feed your dog throughout the day. I had a trainer that used this to help tire out her Labs. She used these: http://triplecrowndogs.com/product/1591/Everlasting-Treat-Ball.html and my dogs love it too. Keeps them busy for longer and makes them work for their food. You could also jazz up your usual exercise routine with specialized classes once or twice a week; something like dock diving, flyball, agility (personal favorite), rally obedience, freestyle dance (ugh) or tracking. The mental exercise on top of the physical exercise may be the key to truly tiring him out.
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Aug 11, 2008 01:12
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Masey posted:We have fleas, and we keep getting bitten. The best way to proceed would be to treat the cats with Capstar (available from your vet), follow up with Frontline or Advantage on all pets in the house, vacuum or wash everything that you can in your house, and then follow up with the DE (diatomaceous earth). The Capstar will kill the fleas currently on the cats. The Frontline will provide longer protection and kill the additional fleas that hatch and hop on for a meal. Vacuuming is surprisingly effective at removing eggs from the house, but remember to get rid of all that debris that you suck up ASAP. A single flea can produce huge numbers of eggs, so you'll need to keep up the vacuuming for a few weeks at the very least. Additionally, you'll want to stay on top of the Frontline/Advantage schedule, so you can prevent future infestations.
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Aug 11, 2008 03:36
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Helanna posted:This morning I had my cat spayed. This is a much belated event, as she is almost 2 years old, and it's also the first time I've owned a female cat myself (the rest of my horde are all males, neutered long ago). She's going to feel like poo poo for about a week. Coming off the anesthesia can make animals mentally wacked out for awhile too, on top of the physical pain. I'd give her a nice and cozy place to sleep where the boy cats won't be tempted to mess with her too much. She'll pretty much just lay around for a few days until she starts feeling less pain from the surgery.
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Aug 16, 2008 23:41
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eclectic taste posted:The bowl is in a quiet place, in the corner away from the fridge. I think he's just weird, and likes the "thrill of the hunt." Today I decided to not give in and just left the food in the bowl. As of right now, most of it is gone, so I guess he's learning that no one's going to dump the food on the floor for him, and he better eat it or he'll go hungry. If he really does get hungry, he'll just go ahead and eat it out of his bowl. You might consider making meal times a little more interesting for him though by making him work for it. I had a dog trainer that only fed her Lab through treat balls like this one: http://triplecrowndogs.com/product/1592/Everlasting-Fun-Ball.html It keeps dogs from eating too fast, plus the utilizing the concept of working for food is beneficial for the dog psychologically.
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Aug 18, 2008 18:19
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TheReverend posted:Anyone know of a list of dog breeds that would be good for an apartment? You should make your own thread. Breed suggestion discussions end up being pretty long, and we'd need to know a lot more about your lifestyle to give you a good suggestion. I honestly would never recommend getting a English Bulldog, they're genetic nightmares that require significant veterinary help to lead normal lives.
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Aug 19, 2008 23:17
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pioneermax posted:I made a thread recently about choosing a dog breed, and finally we decided on a corgi. There is however one thing digging at me and that is how bad a shedder they actually are. I'd be headed to Costco to stock up on those lint rollers. They're very serious about their shedding. You might consider getting a dog drier, one of the high-velocity ones; they do a great job of blowing the hair out of the coat and will save you lots of time just brushing the coat. They're not cheap, but at least you'll be able to groom the dog at home without him being soaking wet all day.
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Aug 26, 2008 15:47
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Encryptic posted:Is there a good (read: safe and won't hurt the cat) way to get rid of knots and mats in a cat's fur? My youngest cat has developed a number of matted spots and knots in her fur recently for some reason - she got sick some months ago and made a full recovery, but the vet gave us pills she needs to take for the rest of her life and I noticed that after she started taking the pills she started to develop these knots. It may be a coincidence, but she never had trouble with knots before, despite having medium-length fur. Our oldest cat is a Persian mix with beautiful long silky fur and he never has trouble with knots either, surprisingly. You'd be better off with a dematting comb than the thing you listed- something like this http://grooming.petedge.com/Bernina...bCategoryId=479 Your cat will be far less stressed if you're the one dematting rather than the groomer. Do be careful though, those combs are razors (sharp!) and you can hurt yourself and/or the cat. If you can keep up with the brushing daily, especially in the areas that rub when she walks then it'll go a long way towards keeping her free of mats. Any sort of dematting is painful, and having to shave down a matted animal also sucks for everyone involved. Consider getting a Furminator to help reduce the amount of fluff that the cat has, too.
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Aug 28, 2008 15:24
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Customer Service posted:My family got a 10 week old Presa Canario mix from the shelter and I'm interested in eventually getting into some activities with him, like weight pull and obedience- anything that would be good really, since he has the potential to become a very large, powerful dog and the more training he has the better. I'd like to have him trained to even protect one of us if it was needed, and that sort of stuff. But I'm having a hard time finding out how/where to even get started with that sort of thing. There are more knowledgeable people around here about protection training, but I'm happy to share my research with you. I was obsessed with the idea of having a Schutzhund GSD for awhile, but it didn't take long for me to realize that a dog like that wouldn't fit into my life long-term. Teaching protection behaviors is a double-edged sword; honestly, most dogs will protect you, your "pack", and your home naturally and through instinct alone, provided they have the right temperament for it (some are just wimps and will simply bark or hide). However, if your dog doesn't have the proper temperament, giving it that protection training can be dangerous for everyone your dog interacts with. Many dogs just aren't cut out for it (weak nerves, etc.), and those that choose protection dogs are often near fanatical about finding the right breeding. If you think about it in human terms, it makes sense; not every person has the mental abilities to be a soldier, though they may have the physical abilities. You don't want soldiers who are too quick to fire or don't follow orders 100%. You need to be able to trust that they won't shoot an innocent person because they got trigger-happy, and you need to know that as soon as the commanding officer says "stand down" that it happens. Having an ill-suited protection dog has the exact same problems; trigger-happy, reliable on/off switch, etc. Having a big powerful, athletic dog is responsibility enough, but protection training on top of that IS very serious indeed. Now on the other hand, obedience training is definitely in the cards for you, especially since you're going to have such a big dog on your hands. I suggest getting involved in some sort of training class or puppy play group as soon as possible (assuming he's gotten at least one set of vaccination shots). A lot of the doggy daycare facilities around here have good socialization opportunities for puppies. I would warn you away from just taking the pup to the dog park though; many people think their dog plays nicely, but are either deluding themselves or just don't know what behaviors are nice vs. rear end in a top hat-y. Bad experiences with other dogs during the crucial socialization period can sometimes cause major problems down the road, so be extra careful. Remember that protecting your dog is the #1 priority, and being nice to other dog owners is far, far down the list. I've made this mistake myself, and I really regret it. There's no reason that you can't get started on obedience training today, even if it takes you a little while to find a good class. I highly recommend You and Your Puppy for new puppy owners. Stupid name, I know, but the advice is excellent. The training guide is segmented so that you not only know how to teach your puppy new commands, but how to progress from something as simple teaching your puppy its name to the more advanced obedience concepts. It also gives you lots of games that you can play with the pup to reinforce the commands in a fun way; the games tended to work better for my dogs since training classes can be pretty boring for a puppy (and for me). Sorry I wrote so much. I hope it helps. Good luck with your new puppy! MoCookies fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Sep 5, 2008 |
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Sep 5, 2008 15:53
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Silly Hippie posted:Arrrgh, you guys are gonna hate me/this family... Sounds pretty typical of a bladder infection, but it certainly could be something else. Urinating in the house is also a sign of a potential bladder infection, by the way. The dog REALLY needs to be seen by a vet; maybe if you stress how painful a bladder infection is, then they'll actually capitulate. The vet would need to do a urinanalysis to confirm the infection, and then prescribe antibiotics to cure it. Its mindboggling to me that the owners are just hoping it'll fix itself, but there's really nothing else to be done for the poor dog. Dog in pain = time to see a vet. 
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Sep 7, 2008 01:58
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Lareine posted:One of my cats caught a mouse and ate it. I'm kinda worried about parasites. What kind of nasties can a cat pick up from eating a mouse? Cats rarely get leptospirosis, but its something I'd look into if you have dogs or other pets around.
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Sep 8, 2008 16:55
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Berri posted:When I petting my dogs or rubbing their stomachs, my dogs bare their teeth a little bit. When one of them really wants attention, they will come up to me, bare her teeth, and snort. What does this mean in doggy body language? I've only ever heard of teeth bearing in the context of "holy poo poo this dog's about to bite me". The teeth baring they're doing could be what I've seen called a "submissive smile", especially since the dogs seem to be doing it while they're in a submissive posture (on their back). A lot of people can misinterpert it, since it can look intimidating, though it means the opposite in doggy body language. Snorting can be a lot of different things, but my dogs most often use that as a submissive gesture as well; they usually do it when their playfighting gets really intense and then both dogs will back off, snort and fake sneeze and generally make it clear that they're being playful rather than getting agitated.
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Sep 16, 2008 22:04
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Prune Juice posted:My little foster kitten is going to her new owner this coming Friday. Considering that all her medical bills and her rabies certificate are in my name, am I supposed to give the new owner some kind of transfer of ownership letter or something? They can get pregnant for REAL at 5 months old, actually. Just another reason to do spay and neuters early on kittens and most puppies.
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Sep 17, 2008 22:02
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Noctone posted:OK, so my girlfriend and I got a 10 week old Shiba Inu puppy over the weekend, and we're kind of confused on how exactly we should go about training little Niko. Every guide on crate/potty/litter training that I read seems to say something different. I apologize in advance for probably not being the best pet owner, but this is my first pet so I'm learning as I go.... Your post really could be its own thread. It sounds like you're a little lost with training and proper housing for this puppy. I'm happy to help, but this'll be a hell of a long post. Well, first off, you guys are leaving your puppy in the crate for far too long. At 2 1/2 months old, a puppy can only "hold it" for about 3 hours tops. The general rule is 1 hour per month of age, and it tops out at adult capacity of ~9 hours max. This is obviously going to be a problem for the next 8 months or so. The issue isn't so much that she's in the crate (crating is great), but that by leaving her in there for longer than she can hold it, you're forcing her to soil the crate (very bad). Ideally, you should have either gotten an older puppy who could hold it long enough to stay in the crate all day, or set up a few times during the day for a dog walker to come by. By teaching your puppy that you want it to pee and poop in your apartment, you're setting a very bad precedent. You really don't want an adult dog peeing and crapping in your apartment. Pee pads, paper training, litter boxes, etc. are all confusing concepts for puppies, not to mention that having all that animal waste just sitting around your apartment is unhealthy for you and your pets. Putting a bored puppy in a bathroom is a recipe for trouble; puppies will chew the wood of your cabinetry, gnaw through the drywall, and destroy anything they can get to. Buy a large exercise pen for your puppy instead; it'll keep her safe, but secure. The best thing is to do traditional pottytraining: take the puppy outside to their potty spot every 1-2 hours, wait however long it takes until they go to the bathroom, and then praise like hell when they go. At night, puppies can generally last a little longer, but you should be getting up at least once during the night to let the dog go pee outside. I honestly don't see how you and your girlfriend are going to be able to potty train this dog until you make some compromises in that schedule. PI tries to talk people out of getting puppies for this very reason; proper pottytraining is time consuming and a major pain in the rear end. Plan of attack: #1) Don't crate Niko during the day until she's old enough to hold it that long. Instead, use an exercise pen for containment during the day, and you can put down newspaper or pee pads until your puppy has better bladder and bowel control. #2) Set-up dogwalker to come by during lunchtime to let Niko out to pee and poop. #3) Set an alarm clock for an early morning pee time (~2:30 am). #4) Purchase and liberally apply Nature's Miracle to all places in your house that Niko has peed or pooped. #5) Buy this book and follow the tether training instructions, as well as the obedience training schedule. Its a great puppy book, especially for people who haven't had puppies before and want to make sure they do it right, particularly in regards to proper training. I wish you the best of luck. Puppies are a gigantic pain in the rear end, but at least they're cute while they're destroying your sleep cycle and your stuff.  Feel free to make your own thread, we've all got lots more puppy advice.
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Sep 23, 2008 20:58
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ThirstyGirl posted:Looking for advice/reassurance/etc. even though this may just be a judgment call...we are going out of town for 5 days on Wednesday and our usual house/dog sitter just canceled on us. We have two lab mixes (one 10 months old, one 3 years old). It's looking like we may only have two options, and one of them is boarding the dogs at the vet. I board my dogs a few times a year, and like you, I'm an over-protective worrier. Truly, we've never had a terrible experience. I usually pick places that let my dogs all stay in the same dog run, at least at night. Are there any doggy daycare style boarding facilities around you? My dogs also really benefit from places that have playgroups with other dogs. For dogs without dog aggression, I think its a great option. The dogs aren't as confined, they get plenty of stimulation and interaction, and the pricing is usually about the same as a normal boarding facility. My dogs make me feel guilty as poo poo when I'm leaving them, but they do fine and are healthy and happy when I pick them up.
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Oct 13, 2008 16:15
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I've not had freshwater fish since I was a little kid, so I'm a little unsure of what's normal fish behavior. I've had a little 10g tank that I've been meaning to do something with for awhile, and I finally got around to stocking it yesterday with 6 Long-Fin Zebra Danios. Now that I see the little guys in the tank, I'm wondering if the filter I have is too powerful for them. On the other hand, they're supposed to live in streams, so maybe I'm confusing enjoying the flow and struggling not to get sucked up by the filter (one of my guys has a gimpy fin). Its a 150 GPH (supposedly) biowheel that I used to use in my saltwater tank. Should I ditch the filter and go with a bubbler instead? I plan on keeping it very lightly stocked to reduce maintenance.
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Oct 13, 2008 21:01
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Evil Chick posted:We just got him Tuesday night and took him to the vet this morning (Thursday). The vet said flea meds shouldn't be given before 8 weeks. Maybe it's a California thing? Who knows. Young kittens can get super sick from having tons and tons of fleas, but they can also get sick from the flea meds. I've seen a few kittens come into the shelter just covered with fleas, and it wasn't pretty. For your vet, its a balancing act between the various risks. You can always bathe the kitty to get rid of some of the fleas; plain dish soap (Dawn, Joy, etc.) is gentle and amazingly effective. Just make sure that you keep the kitty really warm when they're drying; young animals can't regulate their body temperature as well as adult animals.
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Oct 17, 2008 15:42
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Noumena posted:Two quick questions about my 6mo Maltese, Poe! Jax was altered when he was really young (~6 weeks old) and he also squatted for a long time. We always used to make fun of him, but when he turned one or so, he started lifting his leg like a real dog. As far as coaxing your dog to poop, physical activity is probably the easiest way to "get things moving." A jog around the block is usually enough to get my dogs to go, but an active playtime will also stimulate them to poop, usually. Its a good idea to pair the actual pooing with a cue word, with winter coming up you'll want some tools to help speed along outings in bad weather.
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Oct 21, 2008 06:54
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Kuja posted:Someone explain to me why animal meals are a problem when it comes to cat food? (or dog food for that matter) Meals aren't inherently bad, though they're really only as good as what goes into them. I believe that there's probably a big nutritional difference between the meat meals that go into bargain basement foods, and the ones that go into the higher-quality foods, but that's conjecture. The AAFCO description of what meat meals are is actually pretty broad. One of the meals that you really don't want to see in any ingredient list is "beef and bone meal"; its loving disgusting stuff.
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Oct 22, 2008 15:52
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Narciss posted:What would be a good dog breed if I live in an apartment (a good sized one, but still not as big as a house), but am able/want to take the dog out for frequent physical activity, and to dog parks and such. Being able to take it on jogs would be nice too, but not necessary. Beagles are a good mix of athletic and lazy. Up for anything, including long jogs, but also content to curl up on the couch for much of the day. They get along well with other animals (besides rabbits, in my experience) and I've never met one who didn't love meeting new people and going places. They can handle being crated, but they crave attention and companionship, so it'd be a bad choice if you don't plan on spending lots of quality time just hanging out with your dog. They can also be noisy, though the reasons and frequency of their howling varies from individual to individual. Jax, for example, only really gets going when there's actually something to bark at - an opossum, the mailman, etc. Others may bark simply because they're bored and lonely though, same as other dogs really, except hounds are loving good at barking. Their smallish size makes them easy to take in the car; Jax's crate can fit in the backseat of my 2-door Honda Civic, for example.
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Oct 28, 2008 19:19
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The Dregs posted:Frontline isn't working. At all. A trip to the pet store just confirmed this..they are selling out of alternatives. I have no idea why. I will look into this powder, though. thanks! And I did bathe the dog. The cat tried to desleeve my arm. You ought to go to your vet ASAP for some help. Capstar is pretty amazing if you've never seen it work before. It will kill ALL of the fleas on your pets in 24 hours. The longer you spend trying OTC flea killers, the more flea eggs are going to get all over your house. If the problem is as bad as you describe, you're going to need a multi-pronged attack on those little flea bastards. Capstar + Advantage + Flea Busters powder / Diatomaceous Earth. I'd also warn you away from using K9 Advantix since you have cats; permethrin is seriously dangerous for them, and it would be best to avoid its use as much as possible. Permethrins are also used in most of the cheap-o OTC products, so make sure you check out the active ingredient before buying anything.
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Nov 1, 2008 16:13
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cereal eater posted:1. Leash training - we have an electric fence, but when I want to take him for a walk, the little guy tugs and tugs on the godamn leash. I got a "prong" collar, but I guess I haven't been vigilant enough about using it. Should I just start using it on walks, or does anyone have any other tips? It sounds like you're either got a "hard" dog (i.e. resistant to correction) or you're not using the prong collar correctly. You've got to remember to take control on walks, and not let your little guy take charge. Keep in mind to make the correction as quickly as possible after the undesired action; if its more than 2 seconds or so, the dog isn't going to get it. Also, you ought to pair the prong collar with a treat bag, so that you're rewarding good behavior as well as discouraging the bad. quote:2. Digging - Hiro will dig in the yard occasionly, not usually a big deal, but when we leave him outside for 5-10 minutes to run around he might start digging. Kinda a pain in the rear end, any tips for this? I figure if I can take him for walks more he might have less digging energy, not too sure though. quote:3. Re-naming - I love little Hiro. If you haven't already enrolled in a dog training class, now is a great time to do it. By 6 months old, they're ready to learn the obedience skills that you'll want him to have as an adult. Asian spitz breeds can be tough little buggers, so you'll want to get crackin. Also, waffleimages rocks for uploading and displaying pics. Everyone likes a puppy picture.
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Nov 7, 2008 16:42
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Lava Lamp Goddess posted:My dog is a dork with long toenails. He's learned that he can be an rear end in a top hat and that'll get him out of nail trimming. Its not the tools that are causing the problem, I'll wager. The bath may be helping a bit because standing in the water softens the nail up, but it would be a pain in the rear end to have to give him a bath every time you clip. It'll take some hard work to reprogram him, but its certainly do-able. Clipping Jax's nails was a nightmare before I worked in a grooming shop. I learned that having the right attitude and consistency is 90% of the battle. Take him on a long, long, long run (better yet, have someone else do it so you're not tired for the nail clipping battle). Wear him completely out, and THEN work on the nail clipping. Make sure that nail clipping ends when YOU decide, not when Cyrus does. Its okay if you only do a few few nails at a time, its just important that you don't let Cyrus's misbehavior be the reason that you cut the session off early. It might help if you do the hard run + clip routine several times a week until he learns not to struggle. Positioning matters too, but its more a matter of what makes you comfortable and gives you a good view of the nail. He'll pick up on your nervousness, so be conservative but confident. You should also feel free to keep him leashed so he can't run away. Assmar has it right, that the key is not putting up with their poo poo. The reason that groomers tend to have better luck with difficult dogs is the no-nonsense attitude they develop.
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Nov 9, 2008 18:55
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pioneermax posted:Were potty training the new pup and theres a lot of conflicting information on the internet as to how long you should be waiting for said poos to happen. Mine used to poop every 2-4 hours or so, usually after eating and after play sessions. Getting the pup moving tends to get things moving, if you know what I mean. They also always had to pee after waking up from a nap. I recommend using a whiteboard and writing down when he gets fed, when he goes out, and when he pees or poos. Writing it down can help you see some patterns in his daily schedule, and give you some predictability about when he's going to have to go.
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Nov 11, 2008 00:02
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Shamurai posted:We got a dauchsund recently, rescued from a pet shelter. He wasn't abused in his previous home, which is what makes this habit so weird. There are times when we call him, and he will simply stand still, stare at you and make incredibly high pitched yelps, for no reason. there seems to be no pattern to this and I can't tell why he does it. can anyone offer some advice ? The previous owners may have encouraged it, either knowingly or not. The dog may be just figured out that that particular noise gets attention, or it may be something he's been trained to do. One of my dogs makes this awesome Wookie noise, and we've encouraged it to the point that she'll do it on command (usually) these days.
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Nov 16, 2008 23:20
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Dr.Khron posted:People food is a bad idea, for several reasons. Real meat is actually healthier than most treats that are sold at stores. Most treats have lovely meat sources (by-products) and plenty of other additives that cats shouldn't be eating, like corn gluten meal. I disagree with the blanket statement that healthy kitty treats come from a store and I say that the cat is probably better off eating the "people food" than the majority of treats sold at pet stores. There are some drat good treats out there, but those are pretty much just, you've guessed it: pure meat. Canned tuna is like crack for cats, try to use it as a reward instead of just because your cat is cutely begging for it. Remember, if you keep rewarding your cat for begging, then the cat is going to beg all the time (not cute). People food isn't different than pet food; hopefully we're all eating decent cuts of meat, plenty of fruits and veggies, and minimizing non-nutritious stuff like sugar. Cats don't need to season their food, but its silly to say that animal food comes from a bag PERIOD. That said, do avoid sharing heavily seasoned or spicy food with your pets, and definitely avoid those foods that animals shouldn't have (like onions and chocolate).
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Nov 18, 2008 21:35
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cereal eater posted:My dog has been doing this for quite some time; skipping or not eating much of his 4, 5, or 6 meals... not in a day, but it seems every few days he will not eat a meal. Three cups a day sounds like too much food for your dog. There's a ton of calories in 3 cups of Orijen, and at 8 months old, your dog isn't growing as rapidly any more. He's probably just regulating himself. Its actually a good thing if your dog is hungry for his meals; so I'd keep with the scheduled feedings (just twice a day though) and avoid free freeding. I believe the Kai-ken is a pretty fluffy spitz breed, so the visual markers of having a fatty won't be as apparent. Make sure that you can still feel his ribs and hip bones easily. If you're digging through skin and fat to find them, then your dog is chunky. I'd cut back on the food to 2 cups a day and see how it goes. For comparison, I've got two young adult dogs ~45 lbs and they eat 1.5 cups a food a day at 500 kcal/cup. Most feeding recommendations on pet food bags is going to be too much for your dog, so its better to use it as a starting point, and then adjust that amount based on body condition regularly. The beagles in Notsoape's Beagle thread are a good guide for body condition. Unlike cats, dogs can also skip meals with no ill effects. Some knowledgeable breeders even fast their dogs (not puppies or lactating bitches, of course) for health reasons.
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Nov 19, 2008 16:45
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Cocker Spaniels were seriously overbred in the last few decades, and the temperament of the breed really suffered as a result. Cocker Spaniels can be snappish, and have gotten a reputation for being unpleasant. That said, the breed is SUPPOSED to be a good family pet, and getting one from a good breeder is going to be paramount. They're medium-smart dogs (but not Border Collie smart) and they're active dogs (but not GSD-active). They'll do just fine in an apartment, and are pretty adaptable dogs in general. The grooming can be a chore if they've got lots of feathering and big bevels (bell-bottoms on the feet), but you can also keep their coats as short as you find convenient. Learning to groom a Cocker is super-easy, too, so you can save a lot of money by doing it yourself. To find a good breeder of any breed, start at the national breed club's website. All of the breed clubs have a list of breeders that are in good standing with the breed club, and who have agreed to the breed's ethical code. If you're interested in a dog that excels at certain things (hunting, herding, agility, flyball, etc.) then you'd be better off with getting to know people in the sport and finding out which kennel/breeder has a good track record of success in the sport.
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Nov 20, 2008 16:58
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jrr posted:Thanks for all for all of the information, you guys. Milling and BYBing is definitely the culprit; there are a lot of lovely looking, ill-tempered Cockers out there these days. Responsible breeders are going to have a whole 'nother class of Cocker Spaniel, for the most part, so the point is probably moot anyway. Rescuing a Cocker could work out fine, but if a particular temperament is important to you, then the breeder route makes the most sense. If I were in your shoes, I'd be looking for breeders that get their dogs obedience titles on top of show titles. I also wanted to add there are a several other spaniel breeds that rock, though they may be bigger than what you're looking for. I personally like Brittanys, Field Spaniels, and both English and Welch Springers, all medium-sized and hardy dogs. I personally prefer an English Cocker over an American one, simply because I think the lighter feathering is more practical and because my childhood best buddy was an English Cocker.
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Nov 20, 2008 20:50
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SeldomSeen posted:I'm looking for some recommendations for books on dog training. I'd like to adopt a dog soon and I want to train it properly. I picked up "How to be Your Dog's Best My favorite dog training book is actually for puppies, "You and Your Puppy". Its got excellent training info for basic obedience skills, plus it has lots of info on how to use tether training to teach good behavior. Its very much in line with PI's training philosophy. Don't forget to check out the PI FAQ and crating document. Lots of good info there. edited to add: Every dog is different, and what works great for one dog can be traumatizing to another, or completely ineffective. I recommend checking out a number of training books from the library so that you have a wide range of "tools" to use. The show "Its Me or the Dog" is also pretty great, and is much more relevant to the pet owner than Cesar Milan's show. MoCookies fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Nov 21, 2008 |
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Nov 21, 2008 15:47
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CompactFanny posted:I didn't read this thread. Greys are freaking awesome, and surprisingly low-maintenance dogs. Dogs don't actually need that much stuff, really. The majority of the stuff my dogs get would all be in the "optional" category. Necessities: crate, 2 bowls, martingale collar, leash are the basics. That'll run you about $200 or so. Greyhound-sized crates are expensive. On an ongoing basis, you'll need a high-quality food (~$40/month), heartworm meds(~$15/month), flea meds(~$15/month), and chews(~$15+/month). The start-up costs of getting a dog are practically negligible compared to what it costs to actually have a dog. One of the upsides to adopting from the Greyhound rescues is that the dogs come fully vetted, so you're not on the hook for much in the way of vet bills upfront. You standard yearly checkup varies a lot from city to city, but you can bet on it being about $150 with all the various tests and vaccines. Whether you have a veterinary fund or you're just vigilant about making sure you have room on your credit cards for emergencies is really up to you, but an E-vet visit will start at $200 and gets pricey fast. Getting a pet is definitely something you want to do after you've got your finances in line. I'd recommend that you have $1500+ buffer in case of an emergency in addition to the costs of actually getting the dog (supplies + pet deposit for your apt) and getting everything they'll need.
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Nov 23, 2008 04:16
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BywaterBetsy posted:How do you guys feel about the creation of silken windhounds? They seem to have their poo poo together with health testing and breed standards, but I don't really know much about this kinda stuff. I've done a good bit of research on this breed, and they were created (responsibly, in my opinion) by Borzoi breeders who wanted a small to medium sized, coated sighthound. I've met a number of these dogs in person, and they're beautiful. They're pretty popular with people who are already involved with sighthounds through lure coursing and whatnot. Sach and I have chatted about this breed before, and he can probably tell you more than I can about the breeders themselves. I do know that full registration with the ISWS is strictly controlled, dogs are DNA tested, and that the club is working towards AKC recognition for the breed. I'm still on the fence about a retired Grey vs. a Silken Windhound for our next dog, but its definitely a neat breed.
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Nov 23, 2008 22:49
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floramarche posted:My mother will be caring for a friend's cat for an indefinite length of time. The cat is pregnant and due in 2-3 weeks. She would like to know: Emergency spay is the best and easiest way to go, do it as soon as possible though. Its not as easy as you think adopting out kittens (even for free) to good homes. Should the momma cat not be able to nurse, your mom is looking at sleep deprivation for weeks and weeks, not to mention the cost of supplies.
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Mar 3, 2009 18:41
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 05:39 |
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Bored posted:she had fallen in love with a pyr/border collie mix.... I've got a multidog household, and seem to be constantly dog sitting other people's dogs too, so I can give you some advice with the introductions and pack management. Its important to have an idea of the established pack hierarchy and make sure that your actions reinforce that. Doing otherwise will make things worse, and only will serve to make the dogs more uncomfortable around each other. Based on what you're saying, Nelson's probably the alpha, but both are still posturing. For example, Nelson can't see you giving preference to Polly (even if you want to). Treats, sleeping spots, toys, etc. are all supposed to go to the alpha first. The lower status dog gives those things up naturally to the alpha, like Nelson gives that stuff up to you when you tell him to. A dog would rather be the omega dog than not know where they are in the pack structure. quote:She snarls at him when he comes near her or when she thinks he may come near her. Didn't see her bare her teeth, so snarl may be the wrong word, but I still don't want any fear aggression. No fights yet. They have been separated since the first snarl. She was cool at the shelter when sniffing dogs in separated cages, but cowered when walking by the numerous barking dogs in the outdoor runs. You need to crate both dogs, unless its going to cause Nelson to be even more off-balance, but I'd still do it anyway. With crate switching, you need to make time for both dogs to be with you and to be outside. In the morning, take Nelson outside first for about 30 minutes or whatever, then put him back in the crate or in a room with a shut door. Then you can take Polly out and do the same. Take the utmost care to make sure that they are truly separated from each other; cutting corners can have really bad consequences. You want to prevent the situation of one dog approaching the other's crate, too. You can repeat this several times a day, working it into your normal schedule. Polly would probably appreciate some quiet time, just hanging out next to you while you surf the internet or watch TV. quote:My husband comes home tomorrow, so he can help with the whole "both of us sit down with a separate dog" and do something together thing. Think I got that from ZIMS, but I could be wrong. Should we leash them for this? Nelson always thinks that the leash means go somewhere new and fascinating to sniff and pee. They've both gotten a lot of short walks today because of it. Since she's a pyr X and they love "exploring", she's to be leashed at all times while I have her instead of my usual stand outside and watch Nelson sniff around for a while before doing his stuff (fenced yard). I'm unemployed right now, anyway, so I have lotsa time to dedicate to this. Honestly, I'd start thinking about her as a Border Collie mix too, rather than just the Pry part. Many BCs have serious fear issues, so its something I'd look into more. Consider enrolling both dogs in to basic obedience classes; the work will make it easier for you and your mom to control your dogs, and the mental work of training can also help wear them out enough to tolerate each other too.
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Apr 24, 2009 23:57
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