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Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.
You live somewhere it gets below freezing. Your dog is not a livestock guardian or property guardian. Frankly, I'd rather see my own dogs euthanized than live like that. My dogs have their own couch, for christs sake.

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Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

Lopside Fundip posted:

I've always heard that called the "primordial pouch" but I'm not finding a good source to refer you to.

We call it the "spay dangle" though even our boys get a bit of a dangle - that's obviously fat.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

MoCookies posted:

Tightly restraining the dog no matter what seems awfully strange to me. My dogs (and I suspect most dogs) would flip out if some stranger has them in a super-tight hold. Between grooming and giving vaccinations at the shelter, I almost never found it necessary do to the tight restraint thing you're describing to get whatever I needed done. It seems counter-productive. I don't think I'd continue going to that vet, since their policy doesn't take the dog's temperament into account. The whole nail-clipping disaster sucks a lot; I'd be wary of how the staff would interact with Wrigley in a real emergency, if something as simple as a nail trim ends up being so traumatic for the dog.

Some animals do just fine with a tight restraint...it's just important to tailor the technique to the animal, which obviously didn't happen for poor Wrigley. I'd probably mention something to the office manager or vet, just so that hopefully the people involved could be retrained a bit.

I personally believe in using a muzzle and then less restraint. With a muzzle, the people working with the dog have no fear of being bitten, so they'll be more relaxed and comfortable, and less likely to work too fast or fight with the dog. Some people get freaked out about a muzzle, but it was always my best friend.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

Cuddlebottom posted:

I'm fish-sitting a ten gallon tank with (I believe) 5 mollies and a big fat mystery pleco. The girl who owns it told me to buy her an algae-eater to add to the tank. I asked her if she meant any one fish specifically, apparently she didn't. So my two questions: can this tank support some algae-consuming community fish and what could I get that would stay small? I've heard Otocinclus can be a decent fish for this purpose but have never heard of it before myself. Any thoughts? It's a heated, unplanted tank (around 82 F) with some generic Aquafin 10 gallon filter.

That tank sounds at capacity, or will be before long. A pleco should eat algae and probably outgrow the tank as well. Otos might be ok, but they require some supplementation if the tank doesn't have enough algae. I personally wouldn't be comfortable adding any fish to this girl's tank, because frankly it doesn't sound like she knows what the gently caress she's doing. Maybe snails, that's about it.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

The Ginger Ninja posted:

My cat keeps knocking poo poo over. It's really annoying. He's broken a ton of valuable -- whether sentimental or expensive -- items. This afternoon, I was debating whether I wanted cereal or French toast, and I left a bowl unattended for five seconds as I googled how to make the perfect French toast. Bam, he knocked it over and it shattered all over the floor.

This is getting really frustrating. I have a spray bottle, and like all cats, he hates getting sprayed, but it hasn't influenced his behavior. He's 1.5 years old, rescued at six weeks from the street, and a regular shorthair. I'm guessing he might need a companion, but my apartment is far too small for two cats. What do you all suggest? Toy overload?

Your cat is a Buddhist, trying to teach you to release your materialistic desires to reach a higher spiritual level.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

combee posted:

My partner's neighbour has a beautiful gray shorthair cat. It was gorgeous and tame, but it wouldn't let me take a photo. It looks very unique and beautiful and I would like a breed name in case I do want a cat in the future. Could anybody help me identify the breed? I'm thinking it may be a Korat or something similar.

Do you know that it's a purebred? Most cats aren't.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

drat Bananas posted:

I remember hearing that wet food was worse for their teeth, but it helps with keeping them hydrated. Entirely not sure though. But I think dry/wet/mixture doesn't matter so long as the ingredients are good. :)

I interviewed at a vet clinic specializing in dental work. They promoted dry food to help with maintaining tooth health. Other vets have told me dry food doesn't do poo poo as far as keeping teeth clean. This leads me to firmly believe that they just don't know. I do question the concept that cats are chronically dehydrated when fed solely dry food. My cats are all on dry food and most have had bloodwork at least before their desexing, and none showed signs of dehydration like an elevated PCV or similar, and none show skin tenting that would point to dehydration. Is there something I'm missing?

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

Citizen Insane posted:

I know it's not good for cats to go without eating, and he didn't get anything yesterday, per the vet's instructions. How can I get the little bastard to chow down without accidentally stirring up another poo poo-fit?

I would try to find a human baby food that is chicken and rice, with no garlic or onion added to it. If that's not available, then just plain chicken baby food with no garlic or onion. It is still bland food, but maybe more palatable than what the vet gave you. If he goes for that, you could try mixing it with the low residue and see if you can trick him. If he won't eat, you need to contact the vet on Monday.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

Superconductor posted:


What do you guys think? How common is it for low cost clinics to screw up like that? Is there a possibility that something else happened?

Ugly, snotty, feral kittens! gently caress! :(

I bought a Maine Coon kitten from a breeder under the agreement that she would have him neutered before I picked him up. I had a neuter certificate from the breeder's vet...and two very obvious testicles in the kitten's scrotum. So, it is definitely possible that she wasn't spayed. Mistakes happen...though I've never worked in the kind of clinic that would let something like that happen, and I'm a little foggy on how someone could gently caress up that badly. The scary part is that the breeder told me it had happened to her before. I have no idea why she'd use that clinic again if they managed to totally not perform a surgery she asked for and paid for.

If I were in your place, I'd call them and politely ask them about it. I wouldn't hesitate to insist that they take care of their mistake, though, particularly if they were snotty about it. It may turn out that they are genuinely sorry about it and will do the surgery for you. If they're focused on taking care of feral populations, I would think they'd be happy to do the spay.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.
I have six cats and four snakes. At one time it was as much as 11 cats and 5 snakes (don't say it. Just don't.) My cats range in age from 7 months to 10 years. I've never had a problem with them and the snakes, though I've tried to keep the snakes in very secure bins somewhere the cats don't usually hang out. My ball python even managed to get loose for several days and the cats and snake never interacted so far as I know.

If the cat in your house is very wild or persistent, you might have to put the snake's enclosure somewhere she can't get to it, such as on a shelf she can't reach or behind a door she's not allowed past, but that was never necessary for my cats. The only problem in your case that I can think of is that the cat doesn't have other cats to distract her, so she might be more inclined to bother the snake. If the snake is pretty boring, as most generally are, she might not be interested at all.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.
Advantage doesn't do jack or poo poo for ticks, though it's great for fleas. If ticks are a problem, you should use either Advantix if you have no cats, or Frontline if you have cats because one of the ingredients in Advantix is very toxic to cats.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

maplecheese posted:

You shouldn't. That's why there are scratching posts, cat nail clippers, and SoftPaws.

Declawing is unnecessary surgery that can have long-term physical and behavioural consequences for the cat if it goes badly.

If you have a kitten right now, I'm sympathetic - kitten claws are SHARP - but there are better ways.

Dude, you totally just fed the troll.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

His Divine Shadow posted:

I haven't checked the brand name but last year we used something you could just smear on the neck of the cat for my parents outdoor cats, they didn't get any ticks after that. I dunno what it was but maybe the method of application can give any hints? They plan to buy more of this now as one of the cats came home with a tick on him just now. I got kinda paranoid just now that maybe it might not be good for them.

Nope, that's the same application as all of the products I mentioned, so it's impossible to know what you used from that. I'd recommend Frontline for the situation, as it is both effective and safe. Most other products don't work well or at all against ticks, though I think Advantage is better against fleas.

Hippie Hedgehog posted:

Anyone have any experience with pet water fountains? Vet recommended we get one for our two cats, since the one has FLUTD problems. There seems to be a wealth of choices on the market. Looking for cheap price and durability first, silence second.

Would be happy to take recommendations for brands and online vendors.

I have two Petmate fountains, and I'm not a really big fan of them. They're a pain in the rear end to clean up, and I don't think my cats care that much for them. I want to try a Drinkwell fountain, as those actually have water falling from a spout into a bowl, rather than running down a ramp like the Petmate. I think the sound and positioning of the water in the Drinkwell is more attractive to some animals, but I haven't actually used one. It seems to be more like drinking out of a faucet, if that's something your cats are attracted to.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

Superconductor posted:

My opinions on Cesar Millan aside (I don't freaking like him, at all, he makes me want to bang my head against walls) I think the whole "always walk in front of your dog, never let them exit door first, etc" is a complete load of crap. To me, it says more about the type of leader you are if you can allow your dog to enjoy its surroundings and then ask for and receive its attention when necessary, rather than constantly saying "NOPE NOPE NOPE ALL EYES ON ME DON'T YOU DARE LOOK AT ANYTHING ELSE NOW MARCH." To me, the latter seems more like an insecure leader trying desperately to control their dogs, whereas the former shows a leader who is confidant in their control of their dogs, and doesn't feel the need to be a nazi about it.

Way to feel threatened by a dog trainer. :rolleyes:

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

BlondieIsMyNameO posted:

Show vs. pet quality puppies.

Clear up an argument for me. My mom got a Havanese puppy from a good breeder. Mom claims he is a show quality puppy. Problem is, he has a messed-up ear-it sticks up rather than lying flat...like when dogs cock one ear? But permanently. Supposedly an issue from birth, not genetics.

I say that, due to the ear, the puppy is pet-quality only. Mom claims he is show quality- except for the ear, which may/may not be a problem in the ring. He could be bred and the ear thing wouldn't happen in his puppies. Which is it?

Quality matters little. It's actual accomplishments that determine whether a dog should be bred or not. If the dog hasn't done anything, it shouldn't have balls. Period.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.
In the clinic where I work now, spays and neuters spend one night with us. In the first clinic I worked in, we kept nothing overnight if not totally necessary. In the second, we only kept spays overnight. It's doctor's preference, I think, and the hospitalization isn't generally expensive enough to think it's to pad the bill.

superconductor: Has your yearling had bloodwork done? Also, do you rotate dewormers and have you had a stool sample checked for parasites? To me, he has a wormy look, but there are plenty of things that can give them that unthrifty appearance. I think the fact that your vet doesn't seem concerned is reason to look for a new vet.

Crab Ran fucked around with this message at 02:31 on May 3, 2008

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

little green jewel posted:

Seconding this. My puppies were neutered at eight weeks. I still was allowed to bring them home the afternoon after the procedure, maybe 4 hours later. They were groggy and we had to watch the stitches, but they were just fine. Two neuters plus adoption fees cost me $130, so I'd say you're definitely being fed something hot and brown.

Veterinary expenses vary widely by geographic location, and often procedures are discounted for animals being adopted. You can call around to compare prices, but I wouldn't automatically think you are being taken for a ride.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

Dubious Merit posted:

I have crappy skin, so I frequently put salicylic acid acne stuff on my face before I go to bed. I've noticed that when I do, I wake up to the cat vigorously licking my face. She doesn't wake me up like that when I don't put on the acne medicine, and she doesn't lick it off my face immediately - she waits until morning.

Am I marinating myself for her?

My funeral plan has always been for the cat to eat whatever parts of my body don't drip away into the mattress, but it's a little soon to start.

When I had acne, I had a couple of cats who were the exact same way. They never got sick and thankfully I always had a nose when I woke up.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.
Cats are not smart enough to know their bodies. They can and will make themselves deathly ill by not eating for whatever reason.

If your cat is not eating, first try Solid Gold blended tuna cat food. That stuff is like crack to every cat I've ever known. If that doesn't work, go to the vet, do not pass go, do not collect two hundred dollars. If you wait too long, the cat's liver can start to fail and then it's a very expensive situation with a very poor prognosis (research "hepatic lipidosis").

I lost my seven year old tabby "Fenris" this way, and I hope I can help anyone who reads this to never ever have to go through it. It was painful as hell for me, and obviously miserable for him. I had had surgery and he was by my side 24/7. He had just been started on a new food to try to help him lose weight, so I thought the weightloss was good. Then he started throwing up. Turned out the weight loss was because he wasn't eating at all. I took him to the vet and they did all they could, but we ended up having to euthanize him. Also keep in mind that fat cats may be more prone to developing hepatic lipidosis than those of a more normal weight, so if you're pursuing a diet for your fatty, please talk to your vet and make sure you do it right! Fast weightloss in a cat is not just inadvisable, it can be deadly. :(

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

Yarrbossa posted:

I'm pretty sure this is going to be the route we take, replacing the blinds as they get torn apart on us since we don't give a poo poo about interior decor.

Thanks for the suggestions goons!

If privacy is an issue, you can always get the stick-on "frosting" plastic sheeting for the windows. That way you still get full light from outside, but it is not totally transparent.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

SnowWolf posted:

I've been vaguely thinking about getting a dog for quite awhile, but the main thing that's stopping me is thinking about house-training him. Meaning, I don't know how to get started or how long it would take, plus the period before he's house-trained when he's going to the bathroom all over my apartment would aggravate me a lot. Actually, just thinking about pee on my carpet makes me shudder. Having a dog would be a lot of fun, but would getting a dog be right for me? Can somebody tell me a bit about their training experiences?

If you get a dog from a rescue where it's been fostered, they will know which are house trained already...you might have to go through some remedial steps just to remind him that your place is a no-pee zone too, but it should be easy.

I guess it depends on just how much the idea of pee on your carpet bothers you. What if the dog eats something it shouldn't? You could end up with vomit or diarrhea on your carpet no matter how well trained the dog is. And if you decided on a puppy, just remember that they are basically poorly disguised clones of the cartoon Tasmanian Devil and will destroy and/or defile anything in their path, if allowed.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

Dr.Khron posted:

Can a cat have invisible ear mites?

In my youth, I did some volunteer work cleaning rescued cats, so I know what ear mites look like. However, my kitty is displaying all the behaviors of having ear mites, but I swear I can't find any evidence in her ears!!!
Could they just be deep up in there?

Here is what she is doing:
-She scratches her ears with her hind feet excessively
-She makes that 'itchy face' and shakes her head
-when I rub her head, she seems to like ear scratching, and she previously didn't care for that much.

(note that these behaviors are pretty recent)

Probably not invisible mites, though you could make some money if it was. Could be an inner ear infection, could be something like fleas or allergies. Probably time to see a vet.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.
We're taking one of the dogs on a long road trip (only one dog is suitable for the trip, house sitter is taking care of the others) and we're taking my husband's brand new car. We need a cover for the back seat to keep dog claws from digging in, and secondarily to catch any hair/slobber/etc. The biggest problem is that there aren't real headrests on the back seats, which is how most of the commercial seat covers are held on to the
seat.

These are the kind of seat protectors I've been looking at, that I just don't think will work:


canine_econo_taupe


kurgo_wander_dog_hammock_khaki

I particularly worry that the hammock type won't work as well because the back seat of the car is so drat small to begin with.



For reference, the car is a 2011 Hyundai Genesis Coupe, with a backseat that looks like this:

2010-hyundai-genesis-coupe-3-8-back-seats
The headrests are one solid piece with the back of the seat.

For further reference, the dog is a very silly 2008 yellow mutt, weighing in at about 70 pounds

trumanshakes by dangermouth, on Flickr

TL;DR: Please help me find a car seat protector so my really cute dog can come to Florida with us!


All hosting my own.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

Kiri koli posted:

Do the seats fold down to give you access to the trunk? If so, you could probably wedge the end handles in there.

I'll have to try that. Thanks for the suggestion.

Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

Siochain posted:

Just get a few blankets and wedge them about as needed. Seriously. This is all I do with Asa. And the back seat in that car ~should~ have the baby-seat-clip-thingies that, afaik, are mandated into everything that has a rear seat like that. If so, clip/tie/somehow attach blankets/covers to those.

I just want to do it right because any damage to those seats and my husband will be a sad panda.

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Crab Ran
Mar 6, 2006

Don't try me.

Siochain posted:

Fair enough :) How's the dog in a crate? If he's crate trained, put him in that and just give him lots of quick stops and 10-15 minute walkies.

The dog is perfect in a crate. A crate is not perfect in a small sports coupe. Most car seat covers have openings for seat belts so that a seatbelt harness could be used no problem.

It's going to be an 18+ hour drive. We do know he has to stop and stretch his legs and go to the bathroom a bunch of times....surprisingly, so do we.

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