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kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

What kind of hidden stitch would you use to repair the nose on this stuffed calico pig?

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kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

YggiDee posted:

I'd use a ladder stitch on something like that.

This worked great. Thank you!

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Hi again sewing thread, I have another thing that needs repairing. It's this wild bootleg betty boop sequined top. It's a pretty special and rare piece.



Unfortunately it has a pretty big tear in it. As far as I can tell they are all still attached, and only the fabric between the sequins is what tore.



Luckily the lining doesn't have a tear in it. Both the lining and the rest of the body are made out of the same gauzy silk. It's very delicate.



I was considering finding some non fusible interfacing, putting it in between the body and lining and then going over the adjacent rows of sequins with some inconspicuous reinforcing backstitching. Maybe I'll try to put a blanket stitch on the torn edge of the fabric to keep it from unraveling. Any suggestions?

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Given that it's torn along the lines of the beading, I would tend to take it in four steps.
1. Attach very lightweight interfacing to the back, concealing the stitching of the edges of the patch in between the rows of sequins.
2. Run a black thread through the loose line of sequins at the left, then anchor it down to the fabric; this will prevent the tear from continuing to run.
3. Whip-stitch the black line of sequins through the fabric and into the interfacing, slipping each stitch between two sequins.
4. Lift up the beaded black line to where it should go , move it a little above the bottom edge of the sequined layer, and again whipstitch down.

e: I would recommend knit interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply. The great thing about knit interfacing, even when used on woven fabrics, is that it doesn't stop the fabric it's attached to from moving a little. This helps avoid the problem of delicate fabric tearing at the places you attached the patch.

Thank you for the detailed instructions! I will get my hands on some materials and give it a shot

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

canyoneer posted:

Gingher is originally based out of Greensboro, NC (aka "Jeansboro") and supported the huge local textiles industry. Gingher was acquired by Fiskars in bankruptcy in 2005. Pre-acquisition, they manufactured in Brazil, Italy and Germany. Post-acquisition, they make the all metal ones in Italy and the others in Taiwan. This makes dating these stamped "Made in Italy" scissors difficult. I suspect these ones are post-acquisition, 2005 or later.

Now for the interesting source. The seller is in South Carolina, and listed in his description that he's a professional sharpener and acquired a bunch of these from a former denim plant in North Carolina. I imagine he probably bought an auction lot for cheap when the place shut down, and as a sharpener knew they were worth saving. I remembered hearing a few years ago that the very last textile plant in the United States that was making selvedge denim had shut down, somewhere on the Atlantic coast. I looked the plant up and asked the seller if this was from the very last American denim plant in the US, the Cone Mills owned White Oak plant in Greensboro, NC, closed in 2017.

Cool, I never knew that Gingher’s sharpening plant was in Greensboro. I’m around there a lot for work, I wonder if they would let me just drop some scissors off. I thrift around here and used to find white oak cone mills denim jeans often, which were probably samples from the plant. I was bummed when it closed down (for the most part, although they still have limited operations and manufacturing at the plant through some heritage denim foundation).

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kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Lead out in cuffs posted:

So my iron just died, after lasting surprisingly long (15 years) for something mid-range and made in China.

What's the consensus on irons these days? I get the impression that they're all equally disposable and nobody offers more than a one year warranty. Even the high-end Rowenta irons are apparently hot garbage now. So it's a matter of getting the not garbage that can at least get the job done before it dies...

I've been thinking one of those Hamilton Beach CHI irons?

I use an dry iron and spray bottle mister per some shirt-making book’s recommendation. The one I have was made by Knapp-Monarch, which isn’t available anymore, but Black & Decker seems to make an identical one.

It’s not perfect, and I’m not sure this technique would work for every fabric, but I prefer it to a steam iron due to it having fewer failure points.

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