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handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007

NancyPants posted:

I've never made a quilt before. I'm a beginner at sewing and I think a quilt would be a good way to get really familiar with the machine and sewing basics.

I want to make this and I can't for the life of me figure out how to piece these blocks. Does anyone have a pattern or tips? It was posted several pages ago and I can't remember by whom since I just saved the picture.



It's a pattern that's very popular that a lot of people call Bento Box - it's a Courthouse Step block cut into four pieces, then put back together. Here's a good tutorial:

http://sonnetofthemoon.blogspot.com/2009/01/bento-box-quilt-step-1.html
http://sonnetofthemoon.blogspot.com/2009/01/bento-box-quilt-part-2.html

edit: she also links to this http://webpages.charter.net/cmladronka/bminorblock.htm which has the individual pieces cut out - but I like the method of making the Courthouse Step block and then cutting it. I am lazy.

The version in your picture is a miniature version of that.

handbags at dawn fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jun 1, 2012

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handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007
At some shops you can find fabric that is 108" or 110" wide which is great for backing quilts, but yeah the common method is to pick a print or solid (if you're going to use a print, something small or subtle is best so it isn't obvious that you're joining pieces) and piece the back. If you do piece two or three large pieces together, what I was always told was to use a bigger seam allowance than normal when quilting, like 1/2", for stability.

I see a lot of quilters making pieced backs for their quilts out of scraps left over from the top of the quilt - I haven't tried it yet but it's an appealing idea. Here's an example: http://www.swatchandstitch.com/storage/post-images/IMG_0270-1.jpg

It's funny that you said that about you were using the wrong seam allowance - I'm working on a quilt that is kind of a modified log cabin and couldn't figure out why my blocks were perfectly square but not the right measurement. Until I finally noticed last night that the inner square right in the middle has the wrong seam allowance. But since it's that way on all of them, they're all the same. I'll be interested to see once I get all the blocks together whether I can tell or not.

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007
Lol, I didn't even think about sheets and I've even done that in the past! One thing I would recommend when quilting with a sheet is to use a new needle and toss it after you're done because they are woven more closely than most quilting cottons.

Moda makes some great 108" wide fabric that's not just muslin or white, I think they're even coming out with some wide batiks. So the demand's definitely there.

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007
There's a cosplay building thread in this forum that might have more knowledge about this kind of thing http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3473045

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007
I found this: http://www.dezineshoppe.com/morse.pdf and it indicates that you can use a 10-c-7 or 7-c-7 bulb (night light type bulb).

Cool machine - post a picture of yours after you get it all cleaned up. I love old machines and hadn't heard of that one!

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007
What kind of machine is it? That makes a difference because I don't know if you're talking about a removable bobbin case or a drop-in bobbin case.

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007
The first thing I would say is that to make sure when you seat the bobbin case into its spot, make sure you feel a "click/light snap," that'll let you know it's seated correctly. Something is allowing your bobbin case to shift forwards into the needle's path and this is the quickest thing I can think of to check.

The first machine I had was the Brother machine in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JbxAmvyAKuE

and I did the same thing he did. If your machine is like this, make sure those two pieces he shows first are in the right places.

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007
Oh, I see now. When you said bobbin case I assumed you meant the solid metal front loading kind. I'll look some more.

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007
Yeah, if the case is moving when you press on the pedal you don't have it installed correctly at all. I looked up your machine online and mine is a Babylock but Brother and Babylock are manufactured by the same people, so your bobbin case is like mine.

I wish i could describe it better, but your bobbin case has a notch on the lower right hand side and there is a notch in the case that that notch has to line up with or the bobbin case will not be seated correctly. There's a diagram in your manual, probably towards the end, in the "cleaning your machine" section. The bobbin case should fit into that spot and not move at all when the machine runs.

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007
I put some old flat used-up bath towels under mine - usually I save them and cut them up to use for cleaning rags, but these two are padding under the ironing board cover now. My mom put an old fleece blanket under hers. You could use quilt batting as well.

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007
Throw pillow 100cm square?

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007
Or more realistically a couple of throw pillows like 40cm square, lol. After I did the math.

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007
You can also use a thin line of any water-based Elmer's type glue and iron it. I wouldn't ever do that for clothing, but I swear by it when binding quilts. Might work on canvas, haven't tried it.

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handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007

Shifty Pony posted:

These are all great ideas that I will file away. I finished up all the straps and now have moved on to working on the rest of the bags. The Elmer's glue idea is a really good one. Wouldn't that run the risk of messing with the machine internals as I stitch though?
Well, it's a thin thin line of glue and the iron dries it. It would be similar to sewing through the fusible webbing, to be honest. I bought a special tip for the glue bottle and the line of glue that comes out is very small. Elmer's also makes what they call a "glue pen" that has a precision tip.

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