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Are you sure it's threaded correctly and the bobbin/case is properly installed? That seems like something is way off if you can't get it to see right no matter where you adjust the tension. If you didn't get a manual with it to show the parts/threading, you can probably find one online.
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Dec 31, 2020 04:48
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eighty-four merc posted:Thanks for the feedback / info gang It should be fine to match it to the stitch length, although you might want to think about making it slightly shorter. Sometimes garments have longer stitches than is ideal, because it's faster (and hence cheaper) to sew them that way. This isn't always the case, though, and is probably better to try to judge when you have more experience. (Or ask someone with more experience to judge for you. Or  here I guess.)
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Jan 9, 2021 07:49
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So, I haven't made the Cholyknight otter yet, but I do have the minky, and my partner insisted that our 2.5-month-old needs a furry vest since his hands get cold a lot. I cut a pattern off another top he had, and made a lot of mistakes along the way (some of which are noticeable if you look closely). But I also learned a lot about serging minky (lol why did I choose to do it on the serger?), and using woolly nylon on the loopers (also why for this project, but hey I learned stuff), and about assembling waistcoats. Also it's pretty cute on him.     Now I just need to make him a matching otter. 
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Jan 12, 2021 06:33
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Have you considered just replacing the whole zip? That's what a bag repair place would do. You'd just want to make sure your machine can sew canvas.
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Feb 9, 2021 08:55
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I made the otter from the Cholyknight pattern! And here's my kid with his matching jacket:  It was my first time making a plush, so there was a certain amount of unpicking and re-sewing. But it came out pretty well, and the seams should be solid.
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Feb 13, 2021 01:06
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Admiral Goodenough posted:That might be the cutest matching set I’ve ever seen, it looks great! The fabric looks so soft too Thanks! And yeah, it's minky from Shannon fabrics, and is incredibly soft. Haha when he grows out of that jacket (likely within a few months at most) my plan is to make him a hoodie with ears and eyes so he can fully match.
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Feb 13, 2021 21:44
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Also Funky Monkey for plush/kids' knits. Pretty sure they're in Ontario. When I was making the otter plush a few months ago, they had the best selection of minky I could find online anywhere in Canada. https://funkymonkeyfabrics.com/
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Apr 9, 2021 17:28
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That looks great, especially for a first attempt! Are those mitered corners on the border? Also this is, among other things, the quilt discourse channel. And yeah pressing to the side vs pressing open is very much up to you. I feel like the argument for pressing open is that it can lie flatter, but quilting cotton is so thin that I doubt you'd really notice. I feel like I did it on my first quilt and then never bothered. I also feel like pressing to the side might be stronger? (Again, though, you quilt everything down at the end, so it doesn't matter much.)
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Jun 18, 2021 03:36
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Do you mean you're trying to fold webbing over and stitch it down to increase the thickness? I think the point of that pattern is to take regular fabric and make it into a string by folding and stitching down. And the point of that is to make your drawstring pretty. I wouldn't imagine that webbing would fold like that. I also can't imagine that it would look good as the drawstring of a bag. Are you committed to using it? Either using fabric, like in the pattern, or going to your local fabric store and getting 50c worth of cord, would be easier and look better.
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Jul 6, 2021 21:06
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armorer posted:Sew two channels? Yeah this is what's confusing me about the OP's question. The pattern they linked literally has two channels. The only place the two cords meet is at the knots at the end.
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Jul 6, 2021 22:26
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Ah right, I see. Yeah one option would be two separate channels, one above the other.Pondex posted:The webbing doubles as shoulder-straps so I need two unfortunately. ... but the option of separate channels will look weird if this is your goal. I don't think I've ever seen one of those beach bags with actual webbing/strap material. Usually they just use thick-ish soft cord for the shoulder straps (like in the picture), and work on the assumption that you won't be carrying anything heavy in them. If you really want webbing straps, maybe try to make a design where the straps and bag closure aren't a single thing? Like just sew the straps into the seams and get some cord for the closure? It'd also be easier to put in strap adjusters.
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Jul 6, 2021 23:25
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My totally pulled out my arse theory: the fabric is really stiff and angled in places in the braid, such that it's bending the needle just enough to make it bump into the bobbin case.
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Aug 12, 2021 03:25
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Given that it's torn along the lines of the beading, I would tend to take it in four steps. I'd also think about using invisible thread for this particular repair.
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Sep 20, 2021 20:57
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I mean, I have no experience with computerized machines either, but from reviews it looks like it has some neat features - foot pressure at the press of a button, needle down, fancy quilting stitches, button holing. It's also a really good brand, and I suspect you'd start finding uses for the embroidery. (Custom patches? Faces of plushies?) So if the price is really good, you have the disposable income, and you are doing enough sewing that you feel it's justified, then sure, get it.
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Sep 30, 2021 17:29
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It's also worth noting that leather is pretty challenging to sew, often needing specialized needles, thread, and a heavier-duty sewing machine than the average household one. And alterations on a jacket can be pretty complex themselves. Just saying that if you are completely new to sewing, you may want to work your way up before taking on altering a leather jacket. Try some simpler general sewing projects (e.g. make a bag). Try some alteration projects on easier material (e.g. thrift store waistcoat?). And try some simpler leatherwork projects (e.g. make a wallet or bag?) The good news is that you should be able to find in-person classes that will let you learn and practice all of these.
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Dec 28, 2021 06:14
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Gripweed posted:I found an old abandoned Singer sewing machine. The wood is hosed, it's peeling apart, but the mechanical parts seem Ok, when I move the circle part on the end another little part moves under the needle. Although I can't get the pedal to move. It's got very "was in good working order when it was moved to the garage 50 years ago" vibes. Yeah the wood doesn't matter - you can find an old replacement table/box, or even get a plastic aftermarket one. Googling around is a good idea. There are a ton of hobbyist websites (often with 90s-grade web design) with a lot of info. You can also get parts on eBay/Etsy/specialist websites. I can't remember any off the top of my head, but when I've gone looking for my ancient Singer, they've been easy to find. (It's worth noting that Singers were absolutely ubiquitous for nearly 100 years, with factories around the world all producing high-quality machines to a common standard, so there are tons of them, and tons of parts, still out there. Quality started falling off hard in the 1960s-70s, though. ) Also, when you say the "pedal", do you mean a treadle (ie a device that supplies the motive power), or a foot switch that controls an electric motor? Singers came in treadle, hand cranked and electric. You'll need to decide whether you actually want a non-electric machine in terms of effort to use.
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Mar 20, 2022 22:51
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Yeah if you count labour, and your goal is to get a functional sewing machine, there are definitely better ways. These include buying an old electric singer that's been refurbished. But if you want a fun project restoring a machine that's likely older than your grandparents, you should definitely take that on!
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Mar 21, 2022 04:43
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Metaline posted:Hey, my grandfather turned an antique treadle Singer electric by attaching a lawnmower motor to it...somehow. The treadle drives the machine via a belt, which is actually pretty easy to adapt onto an electric motor. The tricky bit is that it's nice to have speed control when sewing, and lawnmowers don't usually. Maybe a weedeater motor, though...
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Mar 21, 2022 08:06
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Gripweed posted:I guess I meant worth it as, would I have a good sewing machine at the end, and would I be happy to know that I had saved something special from the dump. It's kind of looking like I wouldn't have a lot of fun trying to sew with one of thses things compared to a modern sewing machine, and the world is lousy with these things so it wouldn't be a tragedy if one was lost. Maybe I'll see if there's some place I can leave it where someone with more interest in such things would find it I mean, the actual sewing mechanism on those things is excellent. My primary machine is a 90+ year old electric Singer, and I really enjoy it. But it does lack zigzag and stretch stitch, which can be limiting. But if your goal is to get into sewing, then yeah, you have much easier options available to you.
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Mar 21, 2022 19:47
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gregday posted:I’ve tried it with leather, felt, and empty. Problem is I never get the post flared out enough. It’s always loose and jangling, which of course means the snap won’t close either. I am using the anvil. Do you have the correct size of setting tool? Looks like it comes in "line 20" and "line 24". Those studs you linked are "line 24".
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Mar 25, 2022 04:47
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Maybe check with the seller? Those things should just take a few taps. Maybe they sent you the wrong size by mistake or something?
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Mar 25, 2022 04:54
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cloudy posted:Thank you Effika! I ended up going with something on fabric.com... I wanted to avoid it, but in the end they had stuff that was cheap and liked by me and the person I am making the dress for. I felt dirty ordering it though. Also just a reminder that Spoonflower exists. They will print basically anything* on a wide range of fabrics, and there are a ton of other people's designs already there. If you really can't find anything that inspires you, you could always make your own. *Probably not goatse
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Jun 9, 2022 03:38
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Both overlockers I've owned have been from the 80s, but they were by slightly better brands (Bernina and Janome). Overlockers haven't changed much since then in terms of features, so there's no intrinsic reason not to get one from that era. The main thing to look for is whether the gearing is made of metal or nylon. My Janome definitely has metal gears, so I trust that it'll still last. Singers from the 80s may not. That said, if it's barely-used, the worst thing is that you run it into the ground in a few years and need to get a better one? But yeah, it'll definitely be equivalent to a modern Singer machine, only cheaper because it's used.
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Jul 20, 2022 22:13
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So webbing is something I'd consider pretty heavy duty, especially when you get beyond two layers. And here's some discussion about that machine from an ancient forum: https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/singer-merritt-8834-a-t228666.html Quilting Arcana posted:Merritts have plastic parts and gears and aren't very highly regarded. The plastic parts in the bottom of the machine can and do literally disintegrate. The 237 is a better model. You might be about to get the tension right and get it to work. You might destroy critical parts of your machine in the process.
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Sep 11, 2022 18:33
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Yeah I was curious and Googled it, and came up with this YouTube video of a repair guy tearing it down and then stress testing it. It happily stitched through three layers of leather that looked about 1/8" thick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTdEAp7fgjE&t=1497s Seems pretty solid and full of features.
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Sep 12, 2022 22:59
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Xiahou Dun posted:He never responded to me (shocking surprise!), so I don't have his word on it, but I'm beginning to think that bit might have been the cocaine talking and he used the wrong piece of blanket vocabulary. But if you remember to ask and it's not a bother, I'd love to hear the response from anyone in your class just cause knowing things is cool and makes me happy. "It was probably a mistake but who knows" isn't a very satisfying answer, you know? I believe SpoonFlower does bedding now, and 500-year-old art is well out of copyright, so yeah, go hog wild. https://www.spoonflower.com/en/home-decor/bedding/duvet-cover
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Sep 13, 2022 00:39
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Shifty Pony posted:I watched that as well. Very impressive. TBH my tank of a 1920s cast-iron Singer straight stitch machine does this to some degree too. I think it might actually be from the needle flexing rather than anything to do with the machine itself.
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Sep 14, 2022 01:18
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Jaded Burnout posted:Is there a quick and dirty way to repair the elbows on a cotton hoodie? I could probably sew them shut but I'm not very good at it and only have a little repair kit available. If the rip is big, you'll have to patch it. Do you have some donor fabric you can use? Like, turn a pair of jeans into jorts or something?
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Sep 27, 2022 20:54
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Yeah some needles and thread in colours you'll need are pretty much it. A needle threader is nice to have, and a lot of needle packs* come with it. (The cheap stamped metal think with a queen's head and a little diamond-shaped wire loop.) I would just buy a book of needles from a sewing shop. It'll likely be decent. It can be worthwhile buying good quality thread -- Gütermann is the gold standard. The polyester "sew-all" stuff would be best. You also need something to cut the thread with, but you probably have scissors already. Dedicated short-blade thread scissors are nice if you're doing a lot of sewing. Seam rippers are mostly for correcting mistakes when you're sewing, so not essential for general repairs. Spare buttons are a common emergency sewing kit thing, if you have a lot of button-down shirts that might need repair. Also a few pieces of sturdy material to use for patches can be useful. e.g. cut some bits off a pair of old jeans. * Books of needles? I feel like I grew up referring to a pack of needles as a "book", but Google seems to suggest this isn't common parlance any more, if it ever was... Edit: Jaded Burnout posted:Thanks. I've ordered a selection pack of gutermann threads, some basic pins & needles, thimble, and a cheap seam ripper, if only because I know I'll have to unpick something. Yeah you should be good. Seam rippers are seam rippers, pretty much, and the only real upgrade from there is to start using a razor blade. Pins are handy, but mainly for constructing new clothing. Still could be useful for holding patches in place while you sew them.
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Oct 21, 2022 20:59
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Huh. Had never heard of those. But this seems like a substitute: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/home/toys-and-games/crafts/58722-pro-seam-ripper-kit?item=09A0120 It also looks like those might just be standard scalpel blades, so you could probably just buy a scalpel and use that?
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Oct 24, 2022 21:15
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Yeah and nice use of the diagonal for the button strip/shoulders/plackets. Was that in the pattern or just something you came up with? Honestly impressed that the plackets reverse so cleanly.
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Nov 26, 2022 18:00
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You're probably better off looking for someone local. Just Google tailors or dressmakers (Google maps can be helpful).
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Nov 27, 2022 04:26
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artsy fartsy posted:Hello, I'm a beginner looking for advice. I really like the look of an oversized t-shirt, the only problem is they are always too long, but any already-cropped shirts I find are usually too short for my tastes. Yeah the cheapest pair of shears on Walmart are going to be generic/knock-off crap out of China, which you will almost certainly regret. Spend a tiny bit more and get one of the low-end offerings by Fiskars, Kai or Ghinger and save yourself a ton of frustration. For T shirts, fabric won't affect sewing that much - they're all stretch knit with fairly similar properties. Get a fabric that you like the look of and that's comfortable for you. In general when sewing knit you want a stitch with some stretch, but as you say since this is meant to be super loose it probably doesn't matter as much here. It's worth noting that T shirt material doesn't tend to fray, so you can just leave it unfinished, and people do all kinds of interesting things with them just with a pair of scissors and no sewing. But it can tend to roll, in which case it makes sense to hem it. You may find that gently pressing the hem (with an iron) before you sew will make it much less fiddly. You may need to describe further what you mean by the rolled hem on the sleeves.
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Dec 10, 2022 14:54
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:Hello, I got a Singer 4538 for $25(!) from Nextdoor, intended as a gift for my partner. What else should I provide her to ensure that she's ready to get started? She's been wanting to learn and is a total beginner. From reading this thread I got the following: Don't forget pins (or clips, but pins are cheaper). You probably want some ball-point (for knits) and some sharps (for woven).
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Dec 12, 2022 01:53
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The way that fabric interacts with that dress shape has a weird not-quite-real vibe. I think the dress is great, but it definitely took my brain a few seconds to figure out what was going on. Like you're going to have people doing double-takes thinking you've been photoshopped into their reality.
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Dec 25, 2022 09:27
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Yep. Note that you have to take the whole elastic out, cut it to your new length, and then get it evenly tensioned all the way round as you sew (if you're doing it stitched-down like it is now). That is a long piece of elastic, so getting that right will take a lot of careful dividing up and pinning. If you go with Effika's suggestion of the channel, you get around that, but then need to do a certain amount of manual adjustment of the channel fabric to get it even. But you also get a little more room for fine tuning once you're done. And yep, darts if you find it's too poofy in the end.
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Dec 28, 2022 20:24
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MIDWIFE CRISIS posted:I'd love to try out print screening on fabrics. I have used fabric paint and stencils to create custom designs on clothes before, but stenciling can be hard for intricate patterns. I've never made my own screen, but have screen printed various things over the years. The impression I get is that it's enough work that it isn't worthwhile to cheap out on materials. Like I would go to an actual art supply place (not Michaels) and see what they have. Also the frame is just four pieces of wood screwed together, and seems like the kind of thing that if it came as a kit would add cost (and bulk if you're ordering online). I'm pretty sure there should be tutorials all over YouTube, Instructables, etc.
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Dec 30, 2022 13:32
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Yep I've never had a screen print fade that quickly. Some of it is probably the process just depositing more ink. Some of it may be the ink being better quality. Also obviously wash on low temperature, ideally inside-out, and hang to dry if you want to maximize longevity of any fabric art. Also also, you could look into having screens made or one-off prints done at a local print shop. The DIY aspect can be fun but if all you want is the finished product there are easier ways.
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Dec 30, 2022 15:02
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Yeah there might even be somewhere local to you
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Jan 12, 2023 07:06
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Has anyone sewn a tuffet before? I've been thinking of doing one for my kid - it seems pretty similar to making a quilt. I'm just wondering whether standard quilting cotton is going to be strong enough for what is basically upholstery. (And if you use heavier-grade fabric, how does that go for piecing?)
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Feb 16, 2023 20:23
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