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Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Oh yeah interfacing could work, although I think I'd still worry about the cotton itself wearing through with time.

Anyway I've been thinking of doing some sort of radial Bargello nonsense for it. Just have to clear my project backlog first, lol.

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Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




We're also in the era of buying PDF patterns from small-time designers. Various sewing shops will then print them large format for you, and it can often come out about the same price as the more commercial patterns. You'll usually get all the different sizes and variations, so you can pick which one to get printed.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




I just wanted to say -- whoever suggested basting with glue stick, it has changed my life, especially for knits.


Also just laughing at both the old Readers Digest sewing book I've been reading, and that U Kentucky placket guide, who are all "boys shirts/jackets go left over right, and girls shirts/jackets go right over left". The Readers Digest book even suggested adding two sets of buttons so a jacket could be worn by girls or boys.

... do people actually still do this? Like, actually actually?

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Killingyouguy! posted:

I was thinking just one big rectangle? With some ties inside for attaching the duvet

Oh lol -- I think Effika (and I) read your "quest to slowly sew many rectangles" as a desire to get into quilting, in which case precuts would be your friend. But yeah, you could just go into your local fabric store, or shop online.

For a duvet cover, if you want it to be seamless, you'll likely want "wide yardage". The conventional width of fabric is 60", which is wide enough for a single bed duvet, but not for anything larger. Wider yardage fabric will allow you to sew anything up to king sized. But, there are generally a lot fewer options available in wide, so you may just want to get 60" and have a seam down the middle.

First plan out how much yardage you'll need, including whether you want to do something fun like use a different fabric on each side so it's reversible.


Going from that shop Effika linked, here are some thoughts:

https://www.fatquartershop.com/batik-fabric?product_type_custom=26 for wide yardage, or this one for regular width:

https://www.fatquartershop.com/batik-fabric?product_type_custom=8


Batiks are awesome and come in every colour of the rainbow.


But yeah, if you choose to go to the fabric store (not a bad idea as you can sometimes find bargain bin fabrics if cost is an issue), it's a pretty chill experience. Just go with your yardage needs planned out, and look for quilting cotton by the yard. There will likely be signage and also a vast selection.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Killingyouguy! posted:

Ohhh sorry yeah I was referring to how my previous project was hemming my shower curtain which is also a large rectangle 😅 thank you for the advice!! I hadn't realized standard fabric width wouldn't be enough

Oh no worries. Bedding and curtains are great (and satisfying) beginner projects. Do check some tutorials and things, and have fun!

If you feel like doing more rectangles, pillowcases are about the same level of difficulty as duvet covers (ie pretty easy), in case you want those matching too.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




DR FRASIER KRANG posted:

I just bought six yards of this fabric:

https://www.rosebrand.com/product4004/118-White-Blackout-Sateen-IFR.aspx?tid=2&info=White%2bblackout%2b118

I intend to use this material as the basis for an outdoor projection screen that is mounted on two extruded aluminum posts.

To accomplish this I plan to sew each end into a 2" loop so I can pipe the aluminum posts into them.

My questions:

1) I have a Brother Innov-is NX-250, if I needed to get a heavier needle for this material what should I get?

2) What kind of thread should I use? Anything special?

3) Should i hem the long sides of the material that aren't being hemmed into post loops? I am still awaiting the material delivery but I'm not sure if I'll need to hem it to avoid fraying over time.

I have used a sewing machine like twice in my life so bear with me.

Yeah I'd hem it on all sides, even if it doesn't seem too prone to fraying.

Unless this is super heavy weight, like canvas weight, regular polyester all purpose thread should be fine, and your machine should handle.

How are you getting it taught? That fabric is woven, ie has no stretch, so you'll likely need cord or something you can pull or stretch or it will be floppy. Just making tubes and sliding them over the posts very likely won't be enough.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




One approach is to add loops or grommets to the four corners of your screen, then use shock cord to attach it to the poles. That makes it easier to tension, and you can add quick release connectors (clips/carabiners) for faster setup.

Still need to figure out your pole rigging though

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




StormDrain posted:

Take a look at portable volleyball nets perhaps. They use three guy wires. Of course, the wind load on a net is much different than a screen.

I think I'd design it with grommets at the corners as suggested and hem in steel rods on the top and bottom so it will hang straight without sags and the sort of crease and waviness that comes from that. You could then hang it from the center on a pole and guy down the corners as needed.

Yeah I'd also suggest the rod idea -- that's basically how roll-down screens work. You could also get a taught line across the top and just have a rod on the bottom.

DR FRASIER KRANG, good luck, and let us know how it goes!

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




DR FRASIER KRANG posted:

How do I account for the stretchiness of the material I'm using?

I have an opening into which the fabric will be stretched on all sides but I need to size my rectangle of fabric to allow for the shock cord rigging and the eye bolts plus whatever outward stretch the material will produce.

I don't want to stretch it so hard that I'm tearing out the grommets but I also don't want sagging or flapping in the wind if I can help it.

Your fabric is a synthetic woven, meaning it almost certainly has little to no stretch in it. But you'll need to judge that when you get it, or ask your supplier.

You should probably allow for a decent sized hem to hold your grommets. At least an inch I would think, probably more. Pick a hem size, then cut a rectangle that is the size you want plus 4 x hem size. (That's 2 x hem width on each edge, so you can fold it twice while hemming.)

The shock cord should give you a lot of flexibility for adjustment. Also, for the rigging stuff, maybe look at some YouTube videos about rigging or something.

Also also, bear in mind that this thing will be effectively a huge sail, so plan appropriately.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Yeah I've never done carpet, but I imagine it'll be very different from sewing basically anything else. For one, you definitely won't be able to turn the seams in. There seem to be YouTube tutorials for joining pieces of carpet, for the purpose of having them lie flat next to each other, but you could probably use the same technique to get a right-angled seam for a bag. But, if you're working from a pattern made for regular fabric, you'd want to remove the seam allowance, since you'll just have the pieces butting right into each other.

I would possibly think about using some lightweight angle bar to finish the outside of the seams. You could even do something like putting in some strips inside and bolting the carpet together using the angle bar instead of sewing it.


For finishing the edges, here's an article:

https://www.thespruce.com/carpet-finishing-options-2908736

It sounds like something you'll want to practice first on some scrap pieces. In a commercial setting, there are specialized machines for it.


Note: all of this assumes you're talking about modern carpet with the heavy, almost-rigid backing. The stuff they made/make Victorian carpet bags out of is definitely more flexible. If you have that, then look around for carpet bag tutorials and follow some of the tips there.

eg: https://www.betterdressesvintage.com/blogs/from-my-closet/making-a-victorian-carpet-a-bag

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




StormDrain posted:

Does anyone have good resources for costumes for Halloween? I want to sew one up this year. Mens in particular which seems to be under served overall.

You'd think I might start with a costume I wanted but I wanna do it the way we did when I was a kid and pick something and (have my mom, now me) make it.

How much effort are you willing to put in? Cholyknight has some free patterns for turning a hoodie into a costume:

https://cholyknight.com/accessories/

And a paid pattern for making one from scratch with more options:

https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/515492512/unisex-mens-relaxed-cosplay-hoodie

(It shouldn't be too hard to imagine how to adapt that into different characters.)


And if you're more confident in your sewing and want something more sophisticated, try stuff like this: https://simplicity.com/costume-patterns/

I feel like you can also have good results looking for PDF patterns on Etsy. Note that you'll need to get them printed on wide-format paper, but this is a pretty cheap and available service these days. (You *can* glue them together from individual printer paper sheets, if you're a masochist.)

Try a search like this: https://www.etsy.com/ca/search?q=halloween+costume+sewing+pattern+mens+pdf

Or search more specifically for the costume you want. Jedi and Vikings are pretty popular and easy to find.

If you're still just browsing and looking for inspiration, I think those links should get you started.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




StormDrain posted:

Thank you so much! That helps a lot. I'm a weirdo and I've not made clothes yet so idk how hard I want to start out with. I did sew a couch, from the cushions to a scratch built frame and it came out just fine, so I have the ability to join fabric together accurately, however I know I don't know a lot about how clothes fit a body and lots of techniques outside of piping. But it's Halloween so if it's janky it'll be fine. I just want my date to say wow you did this!?

Also I do have a lot of confidence from other skills that could be considered unearned confidence but it seems like it works out.

Yeah that's what patterns are for. You don't need to figure out how to make it all work on a human body. Somebody else has done that already. You can just take some measurements and then follow the instructions. If you can do basic seams and hems you should be fine.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Looks solid! Glad you got it sorted!

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




I have never repaired something that heavy, but it seems like you're on the right track with heavy duty thread and needle. The only thing will be that that thing was sewn before it was stuffed. Stitching it with the fabric under tension from the stuffing might be a huge headache. A curved upholstery needle might help.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




effika posted:

Maybe an old darning or free motion foot?

The PatternReview forums might know. If no one else has an idea I can try asking there for you (or you can yourself; it's a nice community).

Yeah that's the closest I could think of. They usually have a more circular opening though.

The spring arm bit could be for putting over the needle screw to lift the foot when the needle lifts, like in a walking foot, but it seems like it's in the wrong place.

I almost wonder if it isn't missing pieces.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Sagebrush posted:

You were right! I bought a PDF of the sewing machine's manual for $4 and there it is:



Lolwut? A vibrator...

Do ... do you have a video of it in action?



I'm guessing the machine was from an era before zigzag stitch became standard, so that was one way to get a side to side darning stitch.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Thanks! That makes a lot more sense.

Looks very smooth though. I wonder if there are benefits to the bar over the spring. (Then again my point of reference for a free motion foot is a modern one made of plastic.)

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




That came out so well! The multiple beiges look like a very intentional design choice. And the piecing on those stars is really solid.

That shibori came out super nicely too. How did you set up the ice dyeing? I've done sekka shibori, and am familiar with ice dyeing, but am still struggling to picture the combination.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




I mean, it sounds pretty straightforward as a pattern - everything just sits flat, and the most complicated things are the waistband and zipper.

But ... if you're worried that you screwed something up, first cut and sew a pattern out of muslin (don't bother with hems). That way you can be sure, and you also get a chance to fine-tune the fit. (It makes sense to do this anyway since it sounds like you're making a go-to pattern.)

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Hungry Squirrel posted:

True; Wal-Mart likely has pre-made hoodies that are equally inexpensive (have you seen the prices at Goodwill lately?) but the problem is sizing. I don't know for sure who is coming, or anyone's sizes. But I can at least browse!

Have you looked into event rentals? You might be able to rent a bunch of blankets, and you can definitely rent patio heaters.

Making a bunch of garments for people to wear one time at an event seems... weird.

Like, just tell people to dress warmly?

Edit: if this is a party favour thing, you'll still get better bang for buck just getting a bunch of polyester fleece blankets and lightly customizing them (eg sewing on a custom patch or something)

Lead out in cuffs fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Nov 14, 2023

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Skipped stitches is usually a tensioning problem with the sewing machine relative to the fabric that you're using. It's always a good idea to do a few test seams on the actual fabric you're using to get the tension right. The manual for the sewing machine should explain how to adjust tension and will probably give some recommended tensions for different fabrics.

It's also a good idea to get a fresh needle if the one you're using hasn't been replaced in a while.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




A protip I got from this thread for kids was to use glue stick instead pins to keep the edges together. It washes out later, but can really help keep things in place.

A walking foot is another good idea.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Here's a blog post of someone restoring this exact machine, with a lot of notes:

https://danhopgood.wordpress.com/2017/10/26/singer-328

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




I mean, $200-$300 for a new sewing machine is still well inside cheap plastic junk territory...

If that's your budget, I think you should seriously consider the suggestion to buy used. Lots of machines are likely to come to on your local classifieds.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Use glue stick to hold the seams together.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Yep. Glue stick is just cheapo wash-away stabilizer. It's kind of a convenient width for seams though.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Eeyo posted:

Does it matter much where I shorten pants? Got a pajama pattern that doesn't look too bad, but I'll have to cut off about 3 or 4 inches off it and it doesn't have a shorten line.

Usually you shorten at the ankle. Messing with the waist or crotch will drastically change

When you say you need to cut off 3-4 inches, what did you measure? You'll want the inseam, and to adjust the leg length according to that (allowing for the hem and where you want it to sit.)

(I've had to do the same but opposite to a pattern for my 3YO, who is pretty narrow, so the size with a waist that fits him needs a few inches added to the leg.)

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




So my iron just died, after lasting surprisingly long (15 years) for something mid-range and made in China.

What's the consensus on irons these days? I get the impression that they're all equally disposable and nobody offers more than a one year warranty. Even the high-end Rowenta irons are apparently hot garbage now. So it's a matter of getting the not garbage that can at least get the job done before it dies...

I've been thinking one of those Hamilton Beach CHI irons?

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Yep that "flare" is just so the hem sits straight. And that is correct - keep the flared bit, then redraw the long straight lines that connect to it.

(Note that the straight lines don't go all the way to the crotch or waist.)

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




HelloIAmYourHeart posted:

https://www.quiltinaday.com/shoponline/notion/Reliable-Velocity-One-Temp-Steam-Iron/237783

I have this one temperature iron and like it a lot. I mostly use it on quilting cotton, but I've also used it on thick wool and thin polyester satin and it worked well on those too.

Thanks! I was looking at Reliable, since they seem well-regarded. But unfortunately that model doesn't seem to be available in Canada. (I'm also suspicious of their fancier models being like $200 but only coming with a one-year warranty.) I'll probably just go with the CHI, which is $60, and if that dies too soon, switch to a dry iron.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Oh yeah with waist elastic it can be a good idea to test out a loop of the elastic before finalizing the size.

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Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Oh yeah if you just want it one colour you can get a pack of Rit or Dylon and follow the instructions.

If it turns out to not be 100% cotton, get a pack of dye that works on synthetics and try again.

Tips? Rinse well and wash alone or with like colours the first wash or so.

It should be pretty straightforward, just mix up, immerse the jacket for however long, rinse and wash.

Oh yeah you may need two or three packs. Probably a good idea to weigh the jacket. The packs will say how many you need but fabric weight.

Lead out in cuffs fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Apr 28, 2024

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