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HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
What's a good place for someone that's interested in sewing to start? I have a leather jacket I want to make alterations to, but I don't have any experience sewing and I'd like to take a class or something. What's a good place to learn all the basics, ideally that doesn't involve crash-coursing alone with online tutorials?

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HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
How thick is the leather? Snaps, rivets, and other two-piece leather hardware are made for a specific thickness range they can hold to (in rivets, it's determined by the length of the post on one side). Too thick a leather, and the two halves don't overlap enough. Too thin, and there might not be enough material for the hardware to hold onto.

Failing that, I might try a single, well-centered strike with a sturdy mallet. I try my best to get them with one and a half strikes (a slight tap to line up the shot, then one firm strike to set). I try to use my anvil on a scrap of marble slab (or failing that, a concrete floor).

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
I just bought my first sewing machine off ebay from goodwill. As far as I know it's "tested and in working condition". It's a Singer 328k, made in the mid-60s. I put in the starting bid for $30, figuring if it was worth more, someone would outbid me, and nobody did. Some cursory research indicates it's a reasonably heavy-duty machine, if a bit underpowered (not sure what that means, since those sound mutually exclusive). I'll know more when I pick it up.



What are the first things I should check on an old sewing machine? I'd imagine cleaning and oiling it are a must, and I should anticipate replacing the motor belt.

What should I expect using an old mechanical sewing machine? I have limited experience using cheap modern machines

HolHorsejob fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Jan 29, 2024

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

Crocobile posted:

What a beaut! Definitely get it serviced. I have an early zig-zag (1950s) Kenmore (I think it’s technically a Pfaff? I have the info somewhere or another) and I need to take it back in because the zig-zag/side-to-side tension is kinda hosed.

The cord should be easy to replace if there’s any problems. Maybe look into getting a button-hole attachment/tool if you need one? Does that machine do anything beyond straight stitch? Some old machines have “cams” you insert for different stitches.

I haven’t used my old machine in a while so trying to remember… the nice thing is, if you don’t have the instructions you can find PDFs (or buy them) of the original instructions online. It’s helpful for figuring out what the feet are for, or how exactly to thread it etc.

I did make sure to download the manual for it, so I do have that. I have options for getting it serviced, but I was hoping to do it myself since I'm pretty handy and it's expensive around here. A quick googling shows people paying $150-200 for servicing home machines in the SF bay area, hard to justify on a $30 machine.

I'll probably get a few different feet to play around with. Button hole foot most likely, probably a zipper foot. This machine uses cams ("fashion discs") for different stitches, which appear to be available on ebay

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

Sagebrush posted:

crossposting from the 3D CAD thread

The machine I just bought uses cheap plastic swappable cams, and I'm wondering how hard it would be to make replicas from photos using solidworks and a desktop cnc router.

Sagebrush posted:

I cleaned up and restored my Husqvarna up there ^ from a non-working totally frozen condition. The most important tools were a can of Gibbs penetrating oil (I'm sure you can use Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster or whatever you can find at the auto parts store) and a heat gun. If there are any stuck parts, get them nice and toasty with the heat gun -- maybe a hair dryer would work well enough -- so that that the old gummy oil starts to melt and the parts expand and loosen up a bit. Then hit the hot parts with the penetrating oil and let it soak in for a while. Gently move the mechanism around, not forcing it, rocking back and forth to get everything worked loose. Once it's moving smoothly, you can scrub out the gunk, wipe off the penetrating oil, and re-oil with proper sewing machine stuff. Do get a bottle of actual sewing machine oil! It's important.

Be careful of plastic gears or other plastic components that might be old and brittle. If you force those, they'll crack. I had a couple of cracked parts in my machine I had to replace.

Use fine steel wool and WD-40 or the same penetrating oil to take rust off any rusty parts.

Once everything is moving, put in a needle and stitch without thread to verify that the feed works properly and that it's timed correctly. Check the stitch length settings and the zigzag if equipped. Also check the zigzag timing -- make sure that the needle doesn't start moving sideways until it's clear of the fabric/paper (above the lowered presser foot, basically). Wind a bobbin, thread it, set the stitch tension to somewhere in the middle, and make some stitches on real fabric and check that they're balanced. Adjust the tension if required. That machine probably has a bobbin carrier, so a good starting point for the carrier tension is about 20 grams, and then adjust the top tension from there.

But honestly, an old machine like that, it's a solid chunky mechanism and if they say it's in working condition, it probably stitches just fine. Cleaning it up might be all you have to do.

Sweet. I've been asking around, and this is broadly in line with everything everyone's been telling me. I'll especially keep in mind the bit about using penetrating oil to degrease/unstick anything that's seized. My biggest worries are missing fasteners and cracked plastic gears, but inshallah it'll just need some gentle love with a rag and some light oil to degrease

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird


GF picked up my sewing machine and brought it over! Looks like it includes the pedal and the cam for a zigzag stitch. I've only had time to turn the handcrank but so far so good! It moves smoothly, no clacking or rattling. Only parts with any visible issues are the spool pins. I'll know more when I open it up to oil it

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HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

deety posted:

Thanks for the tip! This probably isn't a project I'll be starting any time soon because it's a bit out of my comfort zone, but I got lured in by a last day discount at QuiltCon.

Nice! A friend of mine was at quiltcon and posted pics

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