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MrClean posted:Does anybody have any experience with Mockingbird basses by BC Rich? I saw a guy on craiglist selling the bass with a Backline 112 amp for $400 and I wanted to know if it was a good deal or not? Depends on which "level" of mockingbird/how old it is. BC Rich's come in a few different price points Bronze, Platinum, NJ, and the USA made ones. The NJ stands for Nagoya, Japan don't let any one try and tell you it stands for New Jersey.
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Dec 7, 2009 01:29
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It might just be the pot legs are shorting out against the shielding. Holding it at 10 might be moving it away just enough to break the contact. If it is that it is just as simple as loosening the nut and moving it a little then tightening it back down.
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Feb 12, 2010 19:34
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Good to hear it was the easy fix. You can put a piece of thin foam, or some electrical tape over the spot it was touching if you want to make sure it can't happen again.
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Feb 12, 2010 21:17
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If the wire looks like it is hanging on by a thread it could be that solder connection isn't 100%. It should be a quick fix to strip the wire and resolder it. I'd see if you can call Musician's Friend and have them foot the bill for the shop to check it out. It would end up cheaper in the long run than having to ship it back and forth to them.
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Feb 13, 2010 15:40
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Isamil posted:I get a lot of hum when I play my bass. I can mostly solve this by placing my hand on a string(alternatively, placing my hand at the amp plug also works), but the hum pops up again if I lift my hand. Moving to a different room helped some, but does anyone know a good way to deal with this? Your bridge should be grounded, which will ground the strings. What brand bass is it? Is the electronics cavity shielded? What kind of pick-ups are in it? If it is just single coils some hum is unavoidable but a good shielding job can help out. You don't want to ground yourself directly to the guitar or amp.
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May 20, 2010 00:32
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If it is shielded it is probably done with shielding paint at the factory. It should look flat black inside the cavity. Is the pickguard(if it has one) shielded? You can use aluminum foil and some spray glue to shield it if it isn't. It will most likely still hum. Check this out: http://www.guitarnuts.com/wiring/shielding/bass.php It might be what you have to do to get it 100% quiet.
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May 20, 2010 01:26
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baka kaba posted:Yeah, the sound is exactly what you get if you fret a note and then hit the string directly down into the fretboard, and I just tried plucking really carefully upward and it does help a lot, thanks! So bad technique really, or can you expect a bit of that anyway? I'm pretty new to bass so I want to nip bad habits in the bud like I never did when learning guitar. If you are in Korn it is  Intonation is pretty easy to do if you have a good tuner I think in the new to guitar thread some one just posted a good how-to intonate guide. New strings can't hurt either.
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Jul 21, 2010 05:03
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Zuhzuhzombie!! posted:Bass question. I have a Fender Jazz bass with an Audere in it. The cavity has been shielded. I usually wrap the ground wire around one of the screws for the control plate, and that tends to work fine. If I leave it loose in the cavity, it causes all sorts of trouble, static, etc etc. Like this:  should be able to get it at any hardware store or Radio Shack.
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Jul 21, 2010 20:55
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Beastie Boys bass lines are fun. The "Gratitude" bass line is like my benchmark for fuzzy bass tone.
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Jul 27, 2010 00:49
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Achtane posted:After applying the sealer to the bare wood body, you're supposed to scuff-sand it or something. I have no loving idea how to do this. Not a clue. It turns out all splotchy and I can't even tell if I've sanded through to the wood or not, what the gently caress. I applied a second coat of sealer and I'm getting the same result while using 400-grit as I was told; I don't know if I should sand it all away and restart or what. You want the sealer to look flat with no shiny spots. Hold it up and look at an angle with a strong light, the sun is great for this. 400 grit is fine, get a pink eraser and wrap the sandpaper around it. The yellow 3M paper that lowes/home depot sells is perfect for this too. It doesn't load up with the sanding dust like other cheaper papers do.
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Aug 25, 2010 00:55
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Jedi Knight Luigi posted:What's a guy gotta do to get a Ric 4001 (or even 4003 look-alike) around here? I've been scouring eBay on and off for months and nothing really looks reliable. If you are talking about a low cost copy of one. Unless you troll eBay almost daily and come across one with a buy it now the chances are pretty slim. Rickenbacker is very protective of their copyrighted body styles, and will have the auctions pulled within a matter of hours.
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Sep 4, 2010 01:06
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Arriviste posted:Wow. I wish I had this resource when I was serious about learning to play bass. Is this the appropriate thread to ask for advice on selling my bass and amp? Pictures always help in selling any gear. Clean it up and fix anything glaringly broken/missing knobs, screws that sort of thing. Take some good pictures, not blurry cell phone pictures in a dark dungeon. Outdoors on a slightly overcast day gives great natural light.
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Nov 5, 2010 05:53
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Schatten posted:Search the used section of GC's website for warlock. You'll see the prices i'm referring to. From my limited experience with my own personal Warlock(early 80's NJ Series) it sounds like a P-Bass.
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Jan 26, 2011 02:53
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The diagram on the site shows a USB port next to the jacks, so it has some sort of interface? I guess when they show up in magazine reviews there will be more answers.
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Jan 26, 2011 06:10
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I built one a few years ago. For the price it was pretty decent, the bridge and tuners are ok, the pick-up is servicable. The body is actually solid wood not plywood I would call it paint grade though no real grain to speak of, the neck is needed a level and crowning after putting it all together but really any new build would. You'll want to plan on plugging and re-drilling all the holes or at least triple checking them. The sealer that comes on them is pretty thick and doesn't really want to come off so the best bet is to plan on sanding it level and use it as a base for your finish. In the end this is what I ended up with:  
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Jan 22, 2012 17:21
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Krustic posted:I posted in this thread awhile back when I was considering a stock peavey t40. I ended up passing because it was poorly setup and had a trashed 13th fret, however, I bought a peavey t-20 today for 65 dollars . It plays well but it has a peciluar issue. It only outputs sound when you touch the volume or tone knobs. Has anyone else heard of this. I'm just assuming its a bad tone/volume knob or improper ground or something. I have an ohmmeter and have some free time tommarrow to open it up. Any ideas on what I should check/ look for? Check the ground wire to the bridge too. With metal knobs you could be completing the circuit when touching them.
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Mar 16, 2012 03:49
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Is the nut on the jack itself loose? If so tighten it. Open it up and look at it does it look like the wires are all connected properly or is one or the other look like it is frayed off? The other thing to check is to just bend the blade that makes the contact for the jack in.
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May 28, 2012 22:32
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Maple fretboards are finished and don't need oiled at all. It won't do anything since it will never soak into the wood through the hard finish. If it is just to clean the gook off of it naphtha and a soft bristle toothbrush or cloth will take care of it.
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Feb 19, 2013 02:54
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I have that white Fender coiled cable and it sounds exactly the same as my Spectraflex straight one.
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Apr 1, 2013 20:22
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RetardedRobots posted:Wait. They'll cut deals on group buys. A guy on another forum I frequent has set them up a few times.
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Apr 7, 2013 02:00
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Did you try haggling? GC prices usually have some wiggle room built into them. Bring up the issues and what you think is a fair price to address them and see if they would knock it off the price.
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Jul 20, 2013 02:54
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Depending on scale there might not be enough room on the body. BC Rich makes an Ironbird bass that has a goofy extension block hanging off the back to get enough room for the scale. Neck pocket would have to be widened, pick-ups re-routed since they might not be at the right nodal points you want them to be at. It might be easier to start with a scratch built body that you can scale up a bit.
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Jul 23, 2013 18:49
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If it's been converted that's probably why the neck isn't straight. Fretting adds stiffness to a neck and depending on how tight the slots are cut can add a back bow. If you get it and can loan the truss rod completely and gently heat the neck and clamp it to something flat it might straighten out.
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Aug 8, 2013 01:14
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Xarb posted:I just found my old bass hidden in my parents house, I haven't played it in about 10+ years. If it's a bolt on neck you can shim it. A piece of paper or card stock folded over a couple of times right at the base of the heel will tilt the neck back a bit and lower the action. How much it needs is trial and error, but it's cheap.
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Oct 2, 2013 17:13
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I rebuilt this Warlock and painted it seafoam green with pearloid accents to combat the pointyness.
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Oct 10, 2013 13:22
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Best I can figure it's early 80's vintage. It's a NJ series. I originally just bid in the body on eBay but the seller threw in the neck for free claiming it was twisted. I haven't noticed anything wrong with it. The inlay on the headstock is nicely done in pearliod too. I had to replace the dot inlays too. Oh and it also had the remnants of a kahler trem install that the route had been plugged.
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Oct 10, 2013 20:25
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You can use baking soda and crazy glue to build up a nut slot you should be able to use it to build up the bottom of the nut then re-file it flat. Or use it as an opportunity to upgrade to a bone nut. A well cut binge nut is one of the best upgrades that can be made on any instrument.
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Nov 11, 2013 02:57
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If you still want to screw around with a fretless bass in the future a few different fender authorized parts suppliers make fretless necks. You could get one of those and swap back and forth between the two.
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Dec 1, 2013 01:52
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Renegret posted:Yeah, not too worried. My teacher will do it for free and just charge me for the nut (he loves me Too wide in which direction? If i's just too wide to physically fit in the slot it's not too big an issue to sand it down until it fits. They are actually sold slightly oversized so you can custom fit them. Just put the sandpaper on something flat like a piece of glass and take a little off each side, and keep testing it until it fits. That being said if your teacher can cut you a whole new nut ask if he can do a bone one.
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Dec 23, 2013 10:39
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) I just can't get to him before my lesson on Thursday and I'd rather have it in some sort of playable condition so I can practice and have a proper lesson.
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Fret markers on a fret less are positioned where the fret would be not in between like on a fretted bass.
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Jun 13, 2014 00:47
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Here's my contribution. It's a saga p-bass I finished from a kit. Not the greatest thing in the world but it sounds like a p and that's all I wanted.
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Jun 7, 2015 04:37
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The P in my P-bass stands for pretty
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Aug 30, 2016 23:09
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Just give it a scuff sand to break any gloss. Around 400 grit should be plenty. If you want big flake it's hard to get out of a can. Krylon has a line called glitter blast, and I think Rustolium has something similar. There is this stuff but it's pricey. I have no first hand experience using it. http://rothmetalflake.com/rattle-bombs/29-rattle-bomb-all-in-one.html#/rattle_bomb_all_in_one-twisted_tangerine
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Oct 5, 2016 23:12
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tarlibone posted:Scuffing it first should work OK, but you should use primer if you go that route. Primer loves scratched up shiny surfaces, and paint loves primer. Strippers have little to no effect on modern polyester guitar finishes. You might get through the color coats but the sealer they all use is some bullet proof poo poo. Heat gun is a good route to go but can be dangerous with shards of hot paint flying off like popcorn. If your not trying to stain the wood there's little reason to take it down to bare wood. Spray some water on the floor to control dust. Once you've spayed it and it's dried a bit you can bring it inside and hang it in a closet or out of the way area to protect from more dust outside.
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Oct 6, 2016 14:35
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Dowels are produced end grain up. A plug you can cut to orient the grain to match whichever way the grain in the body is going.
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Dec 24, 2016 04:56
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Thermos H Christ posted:This is a really stupid noob question, but is there a particular place on a (Fender) headstock where one should place a clip-on tuner for optimal results? I usually clip it over the area where it says fender. I haven't noticed any tuning issues with it there. When it's at the end of the headstock it can be a little jumpy. I would think the closer to the nut the better it would read but I've never done any real research into that.
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Jun 5, 2017 18:49
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Accidentally "won" an auction on shopgoodwill for an Epiphone EB-0. Put in a lowball bid and forget about it until I got an email saying congratulations. From the pictures one of the pots is slightly damaged maybe that scared everyone else off? Pix incoming when it arrives.
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Nov 1, 2017 21:36
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With that gap at the neck heel I'd wonder about if it'll intonate properly or if the scales work out somehow.
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Nov 22, 2017 15:55
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DrChu posted:SCPB was my first thought as well, but the pole spacing on this is too narrow. For rewind vs custom I don't really care and would just pick whatever is cheaper, I'd just want it to fit under the original cover which seems to be bigger than most modern drop in replacements. Just get a cheap rail type pickup if pole spacing is an issue.
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Jan 16, 2018 15:31
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I have a mighty mite fretless neck on a jazz body. The body I have isn't a real Fender body but the specs are the same the neck bolted right up no problem. The ebonol fingerboard is way too shiny I took some 0000 steel wool to it to knock it down. Other than that it's been a fine and stable neck . They come with a thin sealer coat on them I sprayed some lacquer on this one if I was to do it again I'd get a gun stock oil like tru-oil to do it with.
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Jan 19, 2018 15:51
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