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thegloaming posted:I understand that the Jazz bass has a fuller sound, but what else can you tell me about the two, such as appropriate genres/styles, that will help me decide? The truth is that these are pretty much the original electric bass guitars and either one can be used for pretty much any style you care to try. The majority of basses are some permutation of one or the other (except for ones that are permutations of the Stingray, another bass that Leo Fender designed). They'll also both have hundreds of aftermarket pickups available. The J has two single-coil pickups, generally wound in opposite directions so that they act as a humbucker when they're at the same volume. If you favor one pickup (most favor the bridge, I think), expect to hear some 60-cycle hum. The bridge pickup has a punchy, upper-mid-heavy tone that really cuts through, especially if you play near the bridge. The neck pickup has a deeper, more mellow tone, especially if you play farther from the bridge, and it has a kind of hollow sound with the tone knob turned up. You'll hear J-basses on tracks by Jaco Pastorius / Weather Report, Audioslave and RATM, later Rush stuff, the Strokes, Sly and the Family Stone, The Dead Kennedies, Newsted-era Voivod / Metallica (Sadowskys are pretty much Fenders on steroids), way the hell too many to name. The P has a split-coil humbucker. It sounds similar to the neck pickup of the J-bass, IMO, only deeper and without the weird hollowness with the tone turned up. It's been around forever and has been used in every genre. P-bass players include Steve Harris of Iron Maiden, George Porter Jr. of the Meters, James Jamerson from the Motown studio band, Roger Waters, Peter Hook of Joy Division / New Order, Sting, that shithead from Fallout Boy, and pretty much every punk / pop-punk bassist or session recording bassist ever. There's also the PJ configuration, which is a split pickup in the normal P bass position or closer to the neck, and a J at the bridge. PenguinBob fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Dec 12, 2007 |
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Dec 12, 2007 23:41
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thegloaming posted:But I bought a pocket protector and everything! As was said before, either is great for just about anything, and you'll find both are common in pretty much every genre. Honestly I'd recommend the J just because you can get more sounds out of it than you can with the precision. I also feel that it looks cooler. Ultimately it's just a matter of taste. I saw a forum where someone was talking about George Porter Jr. "He's not that good, I didn't hear any slapping..." I died a little inside. Oh, and I noticed that you said you admired Les Claypool, which is cool because he's quite good, but please please please please pleeeeeeease don't try and imitate him. It works in Primus because the band is built around him. If Les tried to play like that in most band settings, they'd throw his rear end out. Slapping is an effect and doesn't always fit. More often than not, it's completely inappropriate. PenguinBob fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Dec 13, 2007 |
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Dec 13, 2007 05:53
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Right on. It may or may not need a setup. The Mexican factories had awful quality control for a while but I hear that it's gotten a lot better in the past few years. And you're probably going to want some better strings than the stock ones. I recommend DR Lo-Riders or Hi-Beams. Unfortunately bass strings cost a whole hell of a lot more than guitar strings. I'm not going to go crazy suggesting upgrades, since you just ordered it and there's no need. But I could, and I'm sorely tempted.
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Dec 13, 2007 06:34
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thegloaming posted:Please feel free! Who knows, maybe I'll want to upgrade soon after, or in the worst scenario, I'll check out this thread a year or so from now and see what people had to say. hmm, k New pickups are a pretty common upgrade. Seymour Duncan's Basslines series is popular with a lot of people. http://www.zzounds.com/item--SEMSJB3 These can be swapped directly with the stock pups, and they have about the highest output you'll get without switching to active pups. A lot of people also swap out the stock bridge. Many will recommend the Leo Quan Badass II, which is a lot more massive than the stock bridge and apparently leaves a lot more high harmonics in the sound. You would have to file the saddles yourself. There's also the Gotoh 201, which is also heavier but is mechanically the same as a stock Fender bridge, and will sound similar. I've still got the stock bridge on my old Jazz, FWIW.
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Dec 13, 2007 16:02
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el Trentoro posted:Hey, I've been playing for a few years now and I'm starting lessons for a music major soon. I asked my teacher to recommend me a method book for learning sight-reading and just to improve all around in general, and he suggested New Method for the Double Bass by F. Simandl: http://www.amazon.com/New-Method-Double-Bass-Book/dp/0825801524 ah yes The stuff about positions in Simandl is pretty specific to the upright (you're not going to fret harmonics with your left thumb on an electric) but I could imagine it could be pretty decent for sight-reading exercise and the later lessons might be good for teaching you how to get around on the fretboard, so long as you ignore the fingerings written in.
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Dec 25, 2007 00:26
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Mr. Pinky posted:My budget would be limited to about $600 or less I'm afraid. I know that's not much to work with in the bass world. Are you needing to get an amp as well? For just an instrument, $600 should be plenty. You can easily get a used P or J bass for that. I've also heard good things about the Peavey Grind. I got a used Ibanez SRX700 for around $350 at GC, apparently just because it had a knob or two missing and needed a new battery, but that was probably a pretty rare find. If you're satisfied with your P-clone then you could just get new pickups. For metal and punk, the Seymour Duncan Quarter Pound is pretty much the standard, and you can find them new in some eBay stores for around $50, certainly no more than $70. Then you can put together a decent used rig with the remainder.
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Jan 24, 2008 20:24
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Mr. Pinky posted:If I keep the Peavey, new pickups are a must. Everywhere I look everyone seems to agree with you about the quarter pounders. But the bigger problem with the bass is the wiring in general. I have a noticeable "hum" due to a bad ground somewhere and most of the wiring/electronics are just cheap and crappy. I'd want to re-wire the whole thing, but I'm not to savvy in that department. Would it be much trouble to re-do all of it while I'm there switching out pickups? In this case, swapping pickups is practically a full rewire. P bass wiring is really simple.
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Jan 24, 2008 23:30
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An Exploding Man posted:Anybody know of good basses in the $150-200 price range? This'll be my first bass and I was originally going to get this Rondo, but if I could get something better in the price range I wouldn't want to miss it. You should be able to find a used Fender clone of some sort for that money. Check eBay and local music shops. Pretty much every guitar company has made them in the past. You could also look for Ibanez Soundgear, Epiphone T-bird, Cort, Peavey, whatever. There are plenty of serviceable basses in that price range. ECTO-1 posted:what do you guys think? If you're going for entry-level instruments, I'd go with Ibanez. http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Ibanez-GSRM20-Mikro-Short-Scale-Bass-Guitar?sku=516148
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Feb 17, 2008 22:04
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Mighty Scoop posted:I was thinking about doing this, and I was wondering what you meant by "filing the saddles yourself." Is the Badass II not fully set up from the factory? right. it comes with flat saddles. 
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Feb 21, 2008 18:22
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Adonro posted:I've been looking into purchasing a bass for a few months now. although I am knowledgeable in some instruments, stringed is new to me. Like Jan, I'm more into the progressive metal/rock music and sort of want to recreate that sound, and I'm not sure where to start off with a beginning bass. The ones that I'm looking at (and like) right now are 6-stringed, but is 4-string basically the "starter"? Or does it not matter? I don't have any of the equipment, so I'm looking to spend $350-$400ish at most on everything I need to start off. with more strings you have narrower string spacing, so it will be harder to fret cleanly and harder to slap (if you are interested in that) but there's no reason you can't start out on a sixer. what sixers are you looking at that fit into that price range and still leave money for an amp, though?
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Apr 13, 2008 03:39
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I've never heard a good word about Rogue anything. The Brice brand they sell on Rondo is supposed to be okay, though I don't know if I'd trust something that cheap made of bubinga - that says to me that they seriously skimped on hardware and electronics. I've heard good things about the Squier Vintage Modified series. I always thought the VM 70s Jazz Bass had some serious mojo. I think 3toes bought one and gave it a generally positive review. There's always Ibanez' SR series. Straightforward, good quality instruments. And always be on the lookout for used stuff. I got an Ibanez bass that normally goes for $700 at about $300, and the only thing wrong with it was that it had the truss rod cover and some knobs missing. Within your budget I don't think there's any way you're going to get a bass and an amp and have enough power to practice with a band... so if you have a decent pair of headphones, you might even want to pick up something like this and get a nicer bass, then save up to get a nice half-stack in the future. For $300-400 you could get something very nice used.
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Apr 13, 2008 05:03
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Real Dad posted:Also, how difficult would it be to put in an aftermarket pickup on a J-bass? It sounds like it's harder than working on P-bass circuitry...The only thing I've ever soldered in my entire life were the LPC ports on an Xbox ~3 years ago Not at all. Any pickup you buy should come with a wiring diagram and it's all pretty simple. I did it just fine and I'd never soldered a thing in my life.
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Apr 14, 2008 16:34
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Josh Wow posted:Another P/J bass to look into would be the Ibanez RKB900, if you can find one for under $400 hint: YOU CAN'T god i want one so bad
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Jul 7, 2008 23:01
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dissin department posted:Just a quick question for any dudes who might have one; the Ibanez Soundgear series. Are they as absolutely loving great as they seem in the store? I've played at least five different ones and they were all amazing. I had the SRX700 and it was very, very good, just not quite as "vintage" as I was looking for. for low- and mid-price instruments Ibanez generally will not do you wrong.
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Apr 15, 2009 20:50
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Scarf posted:Go with the Gio if you can find it. The Gio has a mahogany body where the regular GSR200 is made of Agathis. It also has active electronics (which is a plus for some people, a negative for others). You probably won't use it much to begin with, but it'll give you some more tonal versatility farther down the line. really pretty much any Ibanez, aside from the short-lived and completely awesome RKB, will have active electronics. on that topic, goddamn I want an RKB
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Apr 20, 2009 15:47
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Soopafly posted:Local businesses will charge a little more, but will service you for free most of the time and they might also do maintenance on your bass!
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Jun 19, 2009 02:28
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Dundee McFluffers posted:Hay guys one of the volume knobs on my bass is loose and although it still works its really annoying. Is it something i can fix or should I take it into a shop? the pot, or just the knob itself?
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Jul 30, 2009 23:29
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hedgecore, you can get the Badass II though you'll have to file the saddles yourself. You could also get a Gotoh 201, which is like a more substantial version of the stock Fender bridge with grooves for the saddle screws. Big Face, your half stack loving owns.
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Jan 4, 2010 13:48
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Peavey bass amps in general
The 400w rating is probably with an extension cab. I've heard that Behringer does okay on studio gear and effects but anything of theirs with a speaker will die if you breathe on it wrong. That's just what I've heard.
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Jan 4, 2010 23:53
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gotly posted:Bought myself a GK 700 RB (not II). From the manual: for the full output you would need to run each output into an 8-ohm cab. edit: or i could also be completely wrong about that PenguinBob fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Jan 14, 2010 |
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Jan 14, 2010 04:10
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my local guitar center is selling a used one of these. should i buy it? tell me that i shouldn't buy it. tell me that i shouldn't get this thing and use it to fill in the space that will be left by my strat and my dano.
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Mar 22, 2010 21:09
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Schatten posted:Do you need it? Do you want to play an unlined fretless? Do you have a use for it? I see these show up used at the local GC too, and they usually go pretty cheap because they just don't move. $500... maybe $550 at rock bottom, while they try to get $650-750 out of em on the shelf. What's your GC selling it for? I started out on an upright, a lack of lines does not bother me. I've got a fretless J, but I honestly don't know how to make it feel the way I want. I kind of like the baseball bat-ishness of the neck on the Wick. it's selling for about $550 and I can probably get it out the door for $550 even, because that loving bass has been there since the store opened about six years ago.
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Mar 22, 2010 22:03
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shpladoinkle posted:Just bought a cheap as all hell gibson epiphone from craigslist with a peavy amp. There's no model numbers or anything like that but it looks like this one: is it a jazz clone? how is the setup and finish? this might be jpeg artifacting, but the strings look old and dirty as hell.
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Jun 30, 2010 00:40
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Epi Lepi posted:So my buddy just loaned me his bass for a while and he hasn't played it in ages so it needs new strings badly. Whats recommended if I want a fairly bright sound? First songs I plan on learning are a couple Silversun Pickups and Flaming Lips songs. "Fairly bright" is pretty vague. Generally, rounds are brighter than semi or flatwounds and stainless steel strings are brighter than nickel or coated strings. I'm personally a fan of DR Lo Riders. DR Hi Beams are really bright and twangy. I've also used Rotosound and Ernie Ball bass strings. It's more or less a matter of taste.
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Jul 3, 2010 03:35
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The Russian Big Muff makes a pretty badass bass fuzz, within a certain range of settings. I don't know what the market is like now, though, since they've apparently been discontinued.
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Oct 28, 2010 05:28
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that Mark Hoppus bass has been around for years.
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Mar 31, 2011 03:25
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I'm thinking of trading my beater Yamaha PJ for a much sexier beater Squier PJ. http://www.guitarcenter.com/Squier-Vintage-Modified-Jaguar-Bass-106075815-i1535384.gc
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Sep 1, 2011 20:33
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Yep. The "active" part refers to the onboard preamp, and it should work with whatever pickups you hook up to it.
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Sep 25, 2011 19:43
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from experience, you can fit a 3/4 upright into the back row of most mid-sized sedans. i put mine in the back of a Volvo S70 more than once.
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Mar 18, 2013 05:43
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Does anyone have any experience with the Eastwood Bass VI? http://eastwoodguitars.com/index.php/eastwood-guitars/eastwood-bass/item/sidejack-bass-vi If it came in surf green I probably would have already pulled the trigger.
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Jun 16, 2013 22:16
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Welp; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eastwood-Display-Model-Sidejack-Bass-VI-Baritone-guitar-Vintage-Cream-/350833599300
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Jul 20, 2013 21:08
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have it do some squats.
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Aug 10, 2013 00:18
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