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I've got a full face respirator already and both sets of stairs are well positioned for cross flow so I think I'll just go for it. Sanding, even with a good dust system (which I have), sounds like a nightmare. I'll give Smart Strip a look too. Does the odor linger after you scrape off the sludge and get rid of it?
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Oct 16, 2020 23:56
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Elviscat posted:This is a good idea, especially if you can get a cheap one that goes up to 11, that threadlocker should let go when it gets hot enough, and make the screw much easier to extract. My old cheap butane multipurpose device failed pretty badly at this. After ten minutes with the iron touching the stub of the broken screw, my IT thermometer showed it had reached about 170F. I don't understand how that works, exactly. Heat transfer into the rest of the panel that the screw is stuck in? Then I tried torch mode instead, thinking maybe I could get in there precisely enough to avoid the wood trim, and smoke started coming out of every hole in the thing, along with a truly terrible smell. I am losing faith in the possibility of success here. I worry that even if I get the screw out, the threads will be mangled, which in turn makes me think maybe I should skip the nonsense and go right to drill and tap.
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Oct 17, 2020 00:05
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The environmentally safe pink/green stuff is pretty odorless if I recall correctly. Compared to the regular volatile stripper that besides odor feels awful if it gets on your skin.
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Oct 17, 2020 00:05
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I don't think it really has much odor to speak of. I spec'd it on a job recently for a customer to strip some doors with badly alligatored oil based paint on them. I stopped by the job early afternoon the day he started, expecting that maybe the stripper had done its job and he was priming by then. He already had a door stripped, primed, and a first topcoat on so the stuff works well. If there's a bunch of coats on there it may take longer dwell time or multiple applications.
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Oct 17, 2020 00:06
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That sounds ideal then. I'm excited to see what mystery wood is underneath the paint (it's almost certainly the cheapest pine money could buy in 1998)
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Oct 17, 2020 00:10
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actionjackson posted:has anyone heard of a 39" wide kitchen sink base cabinet, why the hell do I have this Yes. I think my vendor goes up to 48 inches before they need to produce a custom detail. What wrong with it.
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Oct 17, 2020 00:59
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I'm a loving dumbass, and broke the front glass on my oven in my apartment while I was moving out. Is my best bet to buy a new door for it and replace it, or is there a better way to get new glass in there? EDIT: And what's the best place to order parts for it? Amazon? Second Edit: And I can't even find a manual for the goddamn thing, may just have to suck it up and pay the rear end in a top hat maintenance guy to repair it. Kenmore 790.90102206, if anyone can find it? Ham Equity fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Oct 17, 2020 |
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Oct 17, 2020 02:25
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Thanatosian posted:I'm a loving dumbass, and broke the front glass on my oven in my apartment while I was moving out. Is my best bet to buy a new door for it and replace it, or is there a better way to get new glass in there? Ask your landlord assuming they aren't some monster corporate apartment complex, but otherwise Google make model part and go from there. You probably want to pay for expedited shipping. It might be cheaper to replace the whole thing sadly.
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Oct 17, 2020 02:44
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H110Hawk posted:Ask your landlord assuming they aren't some monster corporate apartment complex, but otherwise Google make model part and go from there. You probably want to pay for expedited shipping. It might be cheaper to replace the whole thing sadly. They're a corporate apartment complex, but I wouldn't describe them as "monster." Found the glass at AppliancePartPros.com, but it's $247 loving dollars. Replacing the whole oven probably isn't an option given that it's from 2013.
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Oct 17, 2020 03:24
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Thanatosian posted:They're a corporate apartment complex, but I wouldn't describe them as "monster." Make sure you can even diy it in time before spending money. Your complex may have a repair company they contract which would be cheaper than paying extra shipping etc. When I say monster I mean like Irvine Company or archestone style ones who charge massive month to month premiums and other stupid things like pet rent.
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Oct 17, 2020 03:31
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Tezer posted:Yes. I think my vendor goes up to 48 inches before they need to produce a custom detail. i've found virtually nothing online that's 39", 36" is very common though. Ikea stuff is also 36" for a 33" sink which I have. home depot has one 39" sink base total. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Oct 17, 2020 |
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Oct 17, 2020 05:14
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Look for 39" Sink Base Cabinet. Sink Base equates to fake top drawers and doors to open space below. The good news is you can have a 36" sink. Farmhouse / Apron front sinks can get tricky with pre-fab stuff. e: nvm--see you did look for sink base. If you call Home Depot/Lowes, they can "special order" a number of brands--from barebones frames to as much money as you want to spend (think https://www.kraftmaid.com). HycoCam fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Oct 17, 2020 |
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Oct 17, 2020 07:08
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OK this might be a drat fool question and possibly better answered somewhere else but: can I detach metal dust from a magnet by using a more powerful magnet?
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Oct 17, 2020 07:16
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I bought a new bathroom faucet to replace the existing faucet. The new faucet has hoses pre-attached with 3/8" female fittings at the end. The supply stop valves in the bathroom were these one piece supply line + water valve with a 1/2" female fittings at the end that screwed directly to the old faucet. I bought a 3/8" to 1/2" brass adapter fitting and it seems to be doing the job just fine, but would the correct way of doing things would be to replace the existing supply line / valve with a correctly sized supply stop valve?
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Oct 17, 2020 07:49
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3D Megadoodoo posted:OK this might be a drat fool question and possibly better answered somewhere else but:
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Oct 17, 2020 11:17
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Slugworth posted:Well how are you gonna get it off the more powerful magnet? By putting a sheet of paper in between, as I should've done originally. e: I found an obvious solution: tape 
3D Megadoodoo fucked around with this message at 11:40 on Oct 17, 2020 |
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Oct 17, 2020 11:25
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actionjackson posted:i've found virtually nothing online that's 39", 36" is very common though. Ikea stuff is also 36" for a 33" sink which I have. home depot has one 39" sink base total. What are you trying to do? Is your existing sink base damaged?
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Oct 17, 2020 14:54
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Thanatosian posted:They're a corporate apartment complex, but I wouldn't describe them as "monster." I've bought a few parts for my dishwasher from repairclinic.com . They sell stove parts too. You might try there if you haven't already. They were the cheapest place I found for my dishwasher stuff.
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Oct 17, 2020 16:11
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HycoCam posted:Look for 39" Sink Base Cabinet. Sink Base equates to fake top drawers and doors to open space below. The good news is you can have a 36" sink. Farmhouse / Apron front sinks can get tricky with pre-fab stuff. yeah I'm sure there's some special order option, it's just having it be 39" is much more limiting, for example I couldn't do the ikea stuff. I know I can have a 36" sink, but I had a new countertop and 33" sink put in last year so I don't want to change that. Tezer posted:What are you trying to do? Is your existing sink base damaged? no, I was just pricing out cabinet replacement options for a new look
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Oct 17, 2020 17:16
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Bathroom toilet shut off has a strange connection http://imgur.com/a/v235BV2 It has a slow drip. The middle silver thing can rotate independently of the shut off. No matter what direction I turn anything, no matter how many times, nothing seems to tighten or loosen. The shut-off and/or the middle silver cylinder are happy just to spin around forever.
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Oct 17, 2020 21:20
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regulargonzalez posted:Bathroom toilet shut off has a strange connection It's old/cheap and sucks poo poo OP. Replace it with a nice quarter turn valve.
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Oct 17, 2020 21:39
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Definitely, but I can't figure out how to get it off 😬 E: multi-tool'd that fucker regulargonzalez fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Oct 17, 2020 |
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Oct 17, 2020 22:10
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Got a sprinkler problem. My zones 4-6 (of 8) no longer work. I’ve replaced sprinkler heads before but nothing beyond that. I understand that I should have a control box somewhere that contains the solenoids and valves, which is probably where the issue resides. Although since my head box doesn’t give any errors, maybe that’s not it... I’ve watched some YouTube videos and read some tutorials and it looks like I might have to dig up half my yard looking for the valve/irrigation box in order to solve this problem. Am I missing something obvious here? Edit: I was, in fact, missing something obvious. After some further reflection I realized that zones 4-6 were all wired to a single “expansion” module. Swapping the wires to a different module let me activate the errant zones. A replacement module is on the way which should solve all my problems. snickles fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Oct 18, 2020 |
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Oct 17, 2020 23:57
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Thanks for twelve wonderful years of fixing things fast, the new thread is HERE!
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Oct 18, 2020 05:18
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