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H110Hawk posted:If you still can't find one that works try a $100 sellers credit.  
jackpot fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Jul 28, 2017 |
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Jul 28, 2017 15:22
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Paint all of that silver. For protection...
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Jul 28, 2017 15:47
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jackpot posted:We've gotta save that for the breaker panel  Those wires are straight from your meter?In the grand scheme of things, what's $2,600 instead of $2,500 in credits?
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Jul 28, 2017 15:52
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Prepping interior walls for paint. Had original paint scrape off crazy easy, so scraped to the drywall. Spackled and repaired joints and dozens of anchor holes. Now quite a bit of the wall has spackle/joint compound. Do I have to prep it at all for primer/texturizer? Or can I just go hog wild?
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Jul 28, 2017 16:24
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H110Hawk posted:
And your quote is pretty close to the first estimate we received on fixing it all. The electrician's advice on fixing it was "don't, just give someone credit to have it fixed if they want. It's ugly but besides the rust it's in good condition."
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Jul 28, 2017 18:44
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How do I tell if I have problematic amounts of water hammer? Like, when I turn on or off a faucet, I can hear a bit of a thump inside the wall. Is any amount of water hammer bad, or is it only when it really sounds violent that I need to worry?
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Jul 28, 2017 21:16
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I have another project, so I'm getting my yard ready for a dog. There's a fence that belongs to a neighbor across the back of my property, so I figured I'd go check it out and make sure it'll work. I see that it doesn't go all the way down to the ground, but it's over some concrete:  A few other angles, there's some railroad ties sitting there, I figured the previous owner put them there to block the fence so their dog didn't escape. I have plenty more to block it up, seems like that's the best idea right?   There's a part where a huge stack of firewood fell over, and is causing the fence to bow out towards my side, I was thinking I might just run over there and ask if I can restack it so it'll be flat and I can put a tie up against it. Also see that tire peaking out the bottom? Turns out the guy has like twenty tires piled up right over the fence. Along with a ton of other junk, and you can just see all the moquitos swarming around it. I live in a northern NJ in the suburbs, so I figure the town doesn't like this. I wonder what I can do about it?
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Jul 28, 2017 23:55
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:How do I tell if I have problematic amounts of water hammer? Like, when I turn on or off a faucet, I can hear a bit of a thump inside the wall. Is any amount of water hammer bad, or is it only when it really sounds violent that I need to worry? Have you ruled out poultrygeists? edit- the thump could just mean that the service pipe isn't secured close to that sink so it rattles
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Jul 29, 2017 00:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:How do I tell if I have problematic amounts of water hammer? Like, when I turn on or off a faucet, I can hear a bit of a thump inside the wall. Is any amount of water hammer bad, or is it only when it really sounds violent that I need to worry? if you have problematic amounts you stop wondering why it's called water HAMMER (source: god, gently caress my old place)
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Jul 29, 2017 01:34
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Okay, so what I'm hearing here is, if it doesn't sound especially violent, then it's not a big deal. Thanks guys.
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Jul 29, 2017 03:04
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eddiewalker posted:What about masking off the sprayer and coating it with an aerosol rubber like LeakStop or Plastidip? Abrasives weren't touching it so I thought they were scratches and didn't want to make it any worse, but magic eraser took them right off. Good call and thanks for the tip. It's a coil style hose so it stretches and I'm not sure if any direct coating is going to work. But it turns out that the finish is actually plastic, so as long as this thing only does paint transfer on acrylic or fiberglass shower surrounds, I guess it's manageable.
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Jul 29, 2017 07:05
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Prepping interior walls for paint. Had original paint scrape off crazy easy, so scraped to the drywall. Spackled and repaired joints and dozens of anchor holes. Now quite a bit of the wall has spackle/joint compound. Do I have to prep it at all for primer/texturizer? Or can I just go hog wild? If you're all the way down to bare drywall I would put a coat of primer on there to save your more expensive tinted paint.
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Jul 29, 2017 17:49
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My backyard light evidently has a photo cell on it and it never turns off. I know nothing about photocells, so how can I troubleshoot this? There are some trees growing above the light so maybe they get too much shade?
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Jul 29, 2017 18:12
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My pulldown attic door doesn't quite sit flush to the ceiling - this picture is actually better than it was, I managed to bring it up a bit by tightening the spring tension as far as it will go (which is probably dangerous - the door barely sits on the floor anymore). I don't mind using a latch of some kind to keep it closed, but I hate the idea of needing a stool to get up and unlatch it to open it. Are there any other things I can do to try and bring it flush with the ceiling? It's probably just old and warped to the point that it'll never go flush again.
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Jul 29, 2017 18:26
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Update on the wires from the title. Got my multimeter back, indeed live!
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Jul 29, 2017 18:26
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Rubiks Pubes posted:My backyard light evidently has a photo cell on it and it never turns off. I know nothing about photocells, so how can I troubleshoot this? There are some trees growing above the light so maybe they get too much shade? There should be some settings underneath the sensor module. Usually duration and sensitivity at least Sometimes a triple-flip of the wall switch will toggle between always-on and sensor mode. Try that. They do occasionally go bad, but replacements are pretty universal and you don't have to replace the whole fixture if you don't want to.
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Jul 29, 2017 18:38
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Rubiks Pubes posted:My backyard light evidently has a photo cell on it and it never turns off. I know nothing about photocells, so how can I troubleshoot this? There are some trees growing above the light so maybe they get too much shade? First thing to try is just cleaning the dust off the drat thing.
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Jul 29, 2017 21:56
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kid sinister posted:First thing to try is just cleaning the dust off the drat thing. yeah this is gonna be it. if it's always on it means it's always dark. it's been raining on that poo poo for years, it's probably filthy. they're cheap & easy to replace if it's bad though. like "a dollar in parts" cheap.
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Jul 30, 2017 00:39
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Yeah I need a bigger ladder to reach it. Can't quite get to it with the one I have.
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Jul 30, 2017 00:42
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Also see that tire peaking out the bottom? Turns out the guy has like twenty tires piled up right over the fence.
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Jul 30, 2017 02:00
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Also see that tire peaking out the bottom? Turns out the guy has like twenty tires piled up right over the fence. Along with a ton of other junk, and you can just see all the moquitos swarming around it. I live in a northern NJ in the suburbs, so I figure the town doesn't like this. I wonder what I can do about it? Call the city and say your neighbors yard is breeding mosquitoes, you can see swarms of them around standing water. See if they care.
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Jul 30, 2017 04:53
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jackpot posted:My pulldown attic door doesn't quite sit flush to the ceiling - this picture is actually better than it was, I managed to bring it up a bit by tightening the spring tension as far as it will go (which is probably dangerous - the door barely sits on the floor anymore). I don't mind using a latch of some kind to keep it closed, but I hate the idea of needing a stool to get up and unlatch it to open it. Are there any other things I can do to try and bring it flush with the ceiling? It's probably just old and warped to the point that it'll never go flush again. It's probably just old and warped to the point that it'll never go flush again. BINGO. Just put up some weatherstripping to make it air tight and call it a day. The only way to make it cosmetically better is to replace the whole thing, which is a moderately big job, depending on how well the new one fits in the hole.
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Jul 30, 2017 14:50
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Squashy Nipples posted:It's probably just old and warped to the point that it'll never go flush again. They're a giant pain in the rear end to replace. But if you're going to do it, after you get that one out, screw a chunk of 2x4 to one side to rest it on, while you're holding it up flush on the other. Bring shims, which you will use. Screw gun in the other hand. Also, have something better than a widowmaker ladder to stand on, or a neighbor who is in the NBA.
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Jul 30, 2017 16:34
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The previous owners of our house put in some large air conditioner supports which we don't need anymore. They're screwed in to the window sill and the cedar shingles. What's the best way to seal up the holes after removing the support brackets?
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Jul 30, 2017 17:02
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beepsandboops posted:The previous owners of our house put in some large air conditioner supports which we don't need anymore. Paintable silicone caulk. Squeeze it in then use a putty knife or your gloved finger then wipe it off flush. Wear rubber gloves because it's a pain to get off your skin. Try to find a color close to your existing paint so it doesn't stand out until the next time you paint your exterior.
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Jul 30, 2017 17:08
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Mr. Mambold posted:Also, have something better than a widowmaker ladder to stand on, or a neighbor who is in the NBA. I access MY attic by butting a ladder up against a wall and using it as a rickety and extremely terrifying bridge over two separate flights of stairs   I'm actually thinking about moving the entrance over to the right so I can have a set of pulldown stairs that come out over the ascending stairwell, or at least a more secure place to put a ladder. Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Jul 30, 2017 |
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Jul 30, 2017 17:16
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I have an problem. An adhesive has torn off a few layers of my wall and I don't know what I'm looking at or how to proceed. I've never dealt with drywall before but it doesn't look like what I've seen, it looks more like a layer of thin cardboard with a layer of paint on it? What have I done and how can I fix this? e: Not cheap like cardboard, just a very fibrous wood pulp substance. I don't live in a cardboard house, it's a real house that I'm committed to for many more years.   
LawfulWaffle fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Jul 30, 2017 |
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Jul 30, 2017 20:04
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LawfulWaffle posted:I have an problem. An adhesive has torn off a few layers of my wall and I don't know what I'm looking at or how to proceed. I've never dealt with drywall before but it doesn't look like what I've seen, it looks more like a layer of thin cardboard with a layer of paint on it? What have I done and how can I fix this? The outer layer of drywall is paper, so that's exactly what you're seeing. Get some spackle, do a few light coats. Sand until it's flat, then repaint.
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Jul 30, 2017 20:07
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devicenull posted:The outer layer of drywall is paper, so that's exactly what you're seeing. Get some spackle, do a few light coats. Sand until it's flat, then repaint. Awesome, thanks.
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Jul 30, 2017 20:08
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GWBBQ posted:I'm the last person to give a poo poo about what's in a neighbor's yard, but water pools in old tires and that's a breeding ground for mosquitoes. You're far enough northeast that West Nile is a concern, and Zika will probably make it up here this year or next. My friend's dad died of West Nile virus two years ago. I never heard of that happening before but there you go. I talked to a few neighbors about him, since they've here for years. On the guys tried to ask him to stop revving his hot rod at 1130 pm and it did not go well. Should be an interesting conversation. I think maybe I'll peek at his recycling Friday and see what he drinks and buy him a six pack when I visit.
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Jul 31, 2017 00:12
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LawfulWaffle posted:I have an problem. An adhesive has torn off a few layers of my wall and I don't know what I'm looking at or how to proceed. I've never dealt with drywall before but it doesn't look like what I've seen, it looks more like a layer of thin cardboard with a layer of paint on it? What have I done and how can I fix this? I usually cut the edges to a regular shape and then sand it lightly and then spackle. Helps it to sit flat and look nice.
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Jul 31, 2017 00:14
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I think maybe I'll peek at his recycling Friday and see what he drinks and buy him a six pack when I visit. considering how neighborly goodwill gestures usually go, that'll end up being the brand his wife/son/dog drinks and he hates it
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Jul 31, 2017 00:52
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So my basement is pretty much pegged at 80 percent humidity during the summer. I don't have a sump but my ac has a line for water to go outside. Can I somehow hook up a dehumidifier to that or is it better to drill a separate hole for a dehumidifier?
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Jul 31, 2017 13:10
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Bozart posted:So my basement is pretty much pegged at 80 percent humidity during the summer. I don't have a sump but my ac has a line for water to go outside. Can I somehow hook up a dehumidifier to that or is it better to drill a separate hole for a dehumidifier? You mean the condensate pump for your AC unit? Yes you could use that, but you'll need some gravity assist. Put your dehumidfier up on some blocks, and run the hose into the collector on the pump. Or, you can buy a dehumidifier with a built in pump, and you can pump it anywhere you desire.
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Jul 31, 2017 14:09
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Speaking of dehumidifiers, does anyone have recommendations as to brands/units? I had one at my old house and it only lasted about 4 years. No pump included, I just manually emptied it every once in a while, but I could put it where the condensate pump is or elevate it to drain into the tub sink. My last home was small and cheaply built but I really miss how everything just worked. This huge 1957 house we bought in April has been nothing but problems and we've put at least $25k into it so far. We're down to the point where the latest thing to go wrong was a bit of water leaking around the chimney into the attic after a massive all-day rain storm, so I guess that's good. Still have a ton of drywall to repair from where plumbers had to tear up the garage ceiling and bedroom wall, and the chimney needs to be re-lined and repointed if we ever actually wanted to use it.
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Jul 31, 2017 17:05
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So I have some vertical foundation cracks I want to seal before the rain season comes. What type of caulking should I use and what type of paint afterwards to blend in the caulking line? Links would be great if possible. Thanks!
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Jul 31, 2017 21:45
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lol internet. posted:So I have some vertical foundation cracks I want to seal before the rain season comes. if they have any dirt or anything coming through then you want a specialist to drill into it and fill with epoxy
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Aug 1, 2017 01:06
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Crossposting from the HVAC thread: I've been digging more into ductless A/Cs. I have a a couple rooms upstairs in a cape cod loft, and they get really hot, so I want to install a ductless mini-split system up there. One room is 12X12, and the other is 12X17. The ceiling is slanted in, and the wall on the end doesn't have enough room above the window to install a wall mount unit, so I need a floor mount like this:  The only issue is that I can only find them in 9000 BTU, (Daikin and Fujitsu). The smallest outdoor unit i can find is 18000 BTU as well. I'm concerned that if I use 9000BTU in a 144 sqft space it'll be too much. It gets really hot up there, being a second floor loft, so I figure it can handle a little more than the standard math of 5-6k, but 9k seems way over kill. I have a friend that can get me Fujistu and Daikin at cost, which is great, but I'd like to see if someone makes something more correctly sized, like a 7k indoor floor mount and then a 14k. EDIT: One thing is that I have two 5000 BTU window units in the end windows, and it doesn't really keep it cool enough up there especially on a really hot day, so I know i need more. Any advice? Also if someone knows an HVAC guy in NJ/NYS that would do the work if I provide the materials and pay him in cash, please recommend. I'd like a guy that is actually licensed if possible to do the install.
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Aug 1, 2017 02:55
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Squashy Nipples posted:you can pump it anywhere you desire. words to live by. Jerk McJerkface posted:Crossposting from the HVAC thread: i have a 12k fujitsu mini-split that's only cooling slightly more area than that (some is being drawn upstairs also) and it's not too much at all. if anything it just means the fan will run in literally-silent mode all the time. the absolutely highest fan speed sounds about the same as the average window unit.
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Aug 1, 2017 05:14
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Bozart posted:if they have any dirt or anything coming through then you want a specialist to drill into it and fill with epoxy It was a recently built house so I think it's just the foundation settling. This is also a crawlspace, not a basement.
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Aug 1, 2017 06:27
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