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Thanks for the replies. If I would have known I would have used hardwood for the frame, I have scrap maple lying around. What about if I cut the supports off and add some of the metal floating shelf brackets to the back cleat? I guess the concern would be they would primarily be attached to the thinner piece of wood and not studs, but I may be able to get a couple of the screws in studs, and could also add anchors for them. Thoughts?
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Jan 15, 2019 12:11
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We were in need for similar shelving. I originally wanted to do something similar to what you have there, but instead went this route with ikea brackets Its pretty drat sturdy and doesn't look bad and was fairly inexpensive and easy.
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Jan 15, 2019 14:52
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I have a 1/4"-1/2" gap where the tile meets the base of my stand in shower in a second floor bathroom. The gap is also deep, going back a couple of inches and presumably into the floor/ceiling. I've tried caulking it several times, using gobs and gobs of caulk, but it always ends up cracking within a few months. What's the best way to long term fix this gap? I'm assuming some sort of grout, but I have no innate man skills and need everything spelled out for me.
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Jan 15, 2019 15:49
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Epic Doctor Fetus posted:I have a 1/4"-1/2" gap where the tile meets the base of my stand in shower in a second floor bathroom. The gap is also deep, going back a couple of inches and presumably into the floor/ceiling. I've tried caulking it several times, using gobs and gobs of caulk, but it always ends up cracking within a few months. What's the best way to long term fix this gap? I'm assuming some sort of grout, but I have no innate man skills and need everything spelled out for me. Vinyl quarter-round. Buy a cheap miter box and hand saw combo. Glue it in with trim glue to avoid nail holes. Liquid Nails sells one at Home Depot.  After the trim glue dries, caulk the qtr-round.
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Jan 15, 2019 16:24
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If you want those shelves to hold heavy items, you are going to need better support away from the wall. Either need steel, 45 degree brackets under the shelves, cables running to ceiling/supporting the front edge, or cut into the drywall and mount attach your supports to the studs (like: https://originalgranitebracket.com/collections/all-brackets/products/free-hanging-shelf-bracket?variant=1603802307 ). edit: 
HycoCam fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jan 15, 2019 |
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Jan 15, 2019 18:03
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HycoCam posted:Either need steel, 45 degree brackets under the shelves, cables running to ceiling/supporting the front edge, or cut into the drywall and mount attach your supports to the studs I've also heard of screwing allthread rods deeply into the studs. A 3/8" rod screwed 2" into a 2x4 can support a fair amount of weight, though it's still getting a flex load (and the associated leverage problems) rather than a straight compression/tension load like brackets or cables would.
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Jan 15, 2019 18:30
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epalm posted:I’ve got space for a 2 gang box. I want one side to be a normal electrical box for an AC outlet, and the other side to be a low-voltage brush plate with no rear panel so I can fit a bunch of cables through. Does that exist? I can’t find anything other than standalone 1 gang low-voltage brackets that can’t really fit next to a 1 gang electrical box. https://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-2-Gang-Blue-Plastic-Interior-New-Work-Old-Work-Standard-Switch-Outlet-Wall-Electrical-Box/3286108 https://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-2-Gang-Blue-Plastic-Interior-New-Work-Standard-Switch-Outlet-Electrical-Box/50121349 The recessed boxes are nice in that they accommodate furniture a little better.
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Jan 15, 2019 18:32
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I did this, but started with 3/4" A-grade plywood and used a corner for added shear strength.Used 1/2" aluminum corner bracket screwed into the studs, and screwed the shelves to each bracket from underneath:  Within three months, they were beginning to sag at the round-offs. I wound up installing props from the floor straight up to the underside of the top shelf to translate the load to the floor. Similar to what I built in our living room:  It's really hard to have true floating shelves that can carry any real weight; the only way I would trust such a build is by using the stud-mounted webbed supports shown in HycoCam's post. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Jan 15, 2019 |
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Jan 15, 2019 21:29
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Cut into the wall and notch out the studs to cantilever the shelves. 
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Jan 15, 2019 22:04
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Has anyone had luck heating one of those tarp shelters relatively efficiently? I'm thinking about enclosing a small area (15x30ft) of a large barn with thick tarps and bringing in a propane heater, but I'm not sure if that'll do much to trap the heat or if I'll lose it as quickly as it comes.
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Jan 15, 2019 22:48
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Baronash posted:Has anyone had luck heating one of those tarp shelters relatively efficiently? I'm thinking about enclosing a small area (15x30ft) of a large barn with thick tarps and bringing in a propane heater, but I'm not sure if that'll do much to trap the heat or if I'll lose it as quickly as it comes. Well, without knowing the r value of the tarp, how much air exchange there is between the enclosed space and the outside, the ambient temperature, and the BTU output of the heater...sure that would work.
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Jan 15, 2019 22:51
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HycoCam posted:If you don't want a recessed box--these will do the trick: You can use a 2 gang line voltage box for mains and low voltage, but you need to insert a divider plate into it to keep the 2 sides separate. Check out Arlington/AI Fittings. They make tons of boxes for low voltage work, including those separated boxes. They even make recessed boxes for it too.
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Jan 15, 2019 23:03
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Well, without knowing the r value of the tarp, how much air exchange there is between the enclosed space and the outside, the ambient temperature, and the BTU output of the heater...sure that would work. BTU calculators say a poorly insulated garage of that size would need about 50k BTU. I don’t know how a bunch of hardware store poly tarps compare to a poorly insulated garage, but I’m assuming not well.
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Jan 15, 2019 23:19
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Baronash posted:Has anyone had luck heating one of those tarp shelters relatively efficiently? I'm thinking about enclosing a small area (15x30ft) of a large barn with thick tarps and bringing in a propane heater, but I'm not sure if that'll do much to trap the heat or if I'll lose it as quickly as it comes. a smallish infrared heater aimed in your general direction will probably work ok-- you're not going to be able to trap much heat in the air though.
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Jan 15, 2019 23:56
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eddiewalker posted:Vinyl quarter-round. Buy a cheap miter box and hand saw combo. Will this still work ok if the tub is beveled? This is what it'll look like:
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Jan 16, 2019 00:33
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Epic Doctor Fetus posted:Will this still work ok if the tub is beveled? This is what it'll look like: I thought you were talking about floor tile. You can get vinyl strips like 1/2” by 1/4” thick, but I don’t know if that’s the best option.
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Jan 16, 2019 00:40
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Just buy, like, 20 packs of Sugru...
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Jan 16, 2019 02:19
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mutata posted:Just buy, like, 20 packs of Sugru... Woah he’s not a billionaire
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Jan 16, 2019 02:37
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Realistically, how much Sugru do you think it would take to do 10' at 1/4"?
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Jan 16, 2019 12:06
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HycoCam posted:If you want those shelves to hold heavy items, you are going to need better support away from the wall. Would something like these work if I just put them up under the existing shelves as they are and screw them into the studs? At least this way I don't have to completely scrap what I've already made.
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Jan 16, 2019 15:33
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Epic Doctor Fetus posted:Realistically, how much Sugru do you think it would take to do 10' at 1/4"? I don't think a single packet could cover more than an inch, so: a lot.
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Jan 16, 2019 16:39
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If you decide to use 45 degree brackets and want to use wood, this is the page I followed when I made shelving for heavy item loads. https://www.instructables.com/id/Heavy-Duty-Shelf-Brackets/
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Jan 16, 2019 16:57
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nosleep posted:Would something like these work if I just put them up under the existing shelves as they are and screw them into the studs? At least this way I don't have to completely scrap what I've already made. Probably? Without a 45degree or support in the front, you are building a simple machine--a fulcrum and lever. The longer your shelf and the farther the weight carried moves from the wall--the easier it will be to bend. Plus, those brackets are kind of on the expensive side for what they offer. Reading the reviews, one person mentions to check the square on the brackets and goes on to say it is easy to fix the out of square ones by bending them with your hands. The upside of those brackets is they are nice and wide, so they probably won't dimple your drywall. If you don't want to have anything under the brackets, they have reinforced brackets that will hold heavy stuff without having to worry that someday you're going to come home to everything dumped off the shelf. (something like: https://smile.amazon.com/Ultra-Hardware-96121-Shelf-Brackets/dp/B009PXR628 ) Quick and dirty shelving--if your studs work out to be in a usable location, my vote would be lip brackets: https://smile.amazon.com/OVOV-Brackets-Decorative-Hangers-Floating/dp/B07BQK64GJ or, my personal preference for laundry room type shelves, and what I use to keep my PC's off the floor: https://smile.amazon.com/Industrial-Brackets-Powder-Coated-5-5X5-5/dp/B079XYNCMC These work really well with weight and I've never had problem with bending or compressing the drywall. edit: Lowes sells wood made specifically for shelving. https://www.lowes.com/pd/0-75-in-x-11-25-in-x-8-ft-SPF-Utility-Shelving/1000007674 They are normally an aisle or two away from the main wood aisles. You can spend very little to more than you'd imagine on shelving boards. The pressed wood, vinyl coated shelf boards are inexpensive because they are worthless--they start sagging before you get them mounted. My favorite shelf board is a stair tread.  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Stairtek-11-5-in-x-48-in-Unfinished-Red-Oak-Stair-Tread/3308928 Never had a stair tread sag plus they are pre-beveled.
HycoCam fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Jan 17, 2019 |
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Jan 17, 2019 04:33
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Thanks for all the advice on my floating shelves. You guys made it apparent that the particular design is not gonna be adequate for anything heavy and that external support was needed. Going back, I wish I would have just got some shelf brackets and stair treads (didn't even think about that) from the get go. I like the look of the thick shelves though, and I guess buying a solid hunk of maple for something like this would have been a waste of good wood. The brackets extend out 7 inches and are supposed to be adequate for a 10 inch shelf which is what these are. They fit will and don't really take up any room which would block the lower shelf. The brackets are placed weirdly toward the center because that's where the studs are and that's the length of shelf that I already had. I did have to cut off some of the original frame and shift it over so they were at least equal under the shelves. They definitely seem sturdy now and don't budge. Thanks! (yes, that is a weird room off from the kitchen that contains the washer/dryer and water heater).  
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Jan 19, 2019 04:02
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I've got a Maytag electric double oven. The lower oven has started burning the poo poo out of food. Is the thermostat and elements on one of these things user serviceable?
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Jan 19, 2019 18:30
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tactlessbastard posted:I've got a Maytag electric double oven. The lower oven has started burning the poo poo out of food. Is the thermostat and elements on one of these things user serviceable? YouTube the first few digits of the model number. Service parts are usually on eBay.
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Jan 19, 2019 18:54
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tactlessbastard posted:I've got a Maytag electric double oven. The lower oven has started burning the poo poo out of food. Is the thermostat and elements on one of these things user serviceable? You better believe it. The hard part will be getting the oven out. Do what eddiewalker said and start by googling the make and model number. You'll find parts and if lucky, how to disassemble it down to the part you need to remove. YouTube is excellent for that these days.
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Jan 19, 2019 18:59
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Thanks y'all 
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Jan 19, 2019 19:21
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nosleep posted:Thanks for all the advice on my floating shelves. You guys made it apparent that the particular design is not gonna be adequate for anything heavy and that external support was needed. Going back, I wish I would have just got some shelf brackets and stair treads (didn't even think about that) from the get go. I like the look of the thick shelves though, and I guess buying a solid hunk of maple for something like this would have been a waste of good wood. It looks better with the brackets providing a little contrast, anyway.
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Jan 19, 2019 19:49
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Does anyone make slip over insulation for a 4” duct? Fixing some PO stuff which includes ducting the bathroom vents using uninsulated 4” flexible duct. Would be fine if it didn’t get cold here and cause the hot, moist air to condense on the duct in the attic and drip. Otherwise I can just remove it and install some new pre-insulated 4” ducting.
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Jan 19, 2019 20:18
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tactlessbastard posted:I've got a Maytag electric double oven. The lower oven has started burning the poo poo out of food. Is the thermostat and elements on one of these things user serviceable? Websites like this one are great because if you have the model number, you can generally find parts diagrams and part numbers, which you can then use to search around for the best price. EDIT: For example: https://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-maytag-mer6770aaw.html n0tqu1tesane fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Jan 19, 2019 |
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Jan 19, 2019 23:16
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We had a new roof installed (with ridge vents where there were none) and our garage foundation lifted. Since then we've noticed that's it's noticeably harder to keep our house heated. I mean it's not impossible, but it seems way cooler than normal in a lot of rooms and also that our hot water seems to not last nearly as long. Like maybe half as long as it used to in showers at best. They did a hydrostatic check before lifting the foundation but not sure if they did one after. Is there an easy way to rule out a pipe leak in a foundation before getting another one done? They aren't cheap! And also for the coldness.. can you get like a rentable FLIR camera to check for cold spots?
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Jan 19, 2019 23:30
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BonoMan posted:And also for the coldness.. can you get like a rentable FLIR camera to check for cold spots? Some Home Depot stores have them for rent: https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Thermal-Camera/FLIR-i7/
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Jan 20, 2019 01:53
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Some Home Depot stores have them for rent: https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Thermal-Camera/FLIR-i7/ Dang none of mine do. Thanks though
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Jan 20, 2019 03:44
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Some libraries also have them for loan. For the water leak question, locate you water meter. They usually have a little spinney thing on them. If all the faucets are closed and it is spinning, you have a leak.
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Jan 20, 2019 13:40
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My bathroom has a '50s style towel rack like this.  Originally, there was a piece of wood wrapped in black vinyl to match the ends as a bar. For a couple of years we've been using ugly-rear end spring-loaded curtain rods after the original wood broke. I'd like to get a wood or metal bar in there that looks like the old one, but the ends are fixed in place. Any ideas on how to do that and have the bar be reasonably strong (won't break if someone accidentally leans and puts weight on it)?
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Jan 20, 2019 22:14
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Using a spring-loaded curtain rod instead of a spring-loaded towel bar is loving wild  You can get spring-loaded towel bars in chrome, which is probably what you want. But you'll never be able to lay on it like a handicapped bathroom bar. Make the bar that strong and you'll break the front of the holder or pull the whole thing off the wall.
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Jan 20, 2019 22:21
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i like nice words
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Franklin Brass 662318 24-Inch Replacement Towel Bar Only https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NOQ4PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YuprCbWTNRHN1 Cut to fit.
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Jan 20, 2019 23:25
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My dishwasher isn’t draining properly. Could be a dead drain pump, or it could be a clogged line. I’m seeing references to using a “rope brush” to clean out the drain line, but the only rope brushes I can find are either for cleaning ropes (of course) or guns (sure, I guess). Do they have another name? Should I use something else entirely? I really hate washing dishes.
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Jan 21, 2019 00:09
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Subjunctive posted:My dishwasher isn’t draining properly. Could be a dead drain pump, or it could be a clogged line. I’m seeing references to using a “rope brush” to clean out the drain line, but the only rope brushes I can find are either for cleaning ropes (of course) or guns (sure, I guess). Do they have another name? Should I use something else entirely? Maybe a tube brush or a pipe brush would be what you're looking for?
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Jan 21, 2019 00:12
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