|
I managed to reuse a lot of trim at our old house. Just be really gentle as you pry it up, use a wide prybar, and work slowly getting it a little way out the whole way down, then a little more, the whole way down. It'll keep it from cracking and splitting. I would usually put a little number on the backside and a little number on the wall (where it'll be hidden), so I could match the pieces back up to their places. If a nail pulls through, just fill it in with wood putty and stain/paint to match. Tap the nails out from the backside, gently, and then use new nails (the same size) to reinstall it. It'll save you a ton of money because that poo poo's expensive. Since you'll be reinstalling it a tiny bit higher than before, the new holes will be fresh, but lined up perfectly on the studs (provided you put the same pieces back in the same places).
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2008 03:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 13:14 |
|
|
I've got some recessed bathroom ceiling lights that are missing several round pieces of glass about 5 3/8in in diameter. I called around, and to get replacements cut it's going to cost me about $20 a pop, which is more than I want to pay given the free time I have available right now to figure out an alternative. I know squat about cutting glass, and with that in mind, how can I make/get something to replace the missing glass and that won't start the ceiling on fire when I leave the lights on? Of course, if someone knows of a place that sells these sort of things that'd be good as I haven't been able find anything online.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2008 20:01
|
|
|
El Kabong posted:I've got some recessed bathroom ceiling lights that are missing several round pieces of glass about 5 3/8in in diameter. I called around, and to get replacements cut it's going to cost me about $20 a pop, which is more than I want to pay given the free time I have available right now to figure out an alternative. Could you give a better description of the piece, or maybe a picture? I prefer https://www.mcmaster.com for most of my material purchases, so they might be able to help you.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2008 21:00
|
|
|
This is just a general question. There is a bit to attach to my toilet innards that stops the toilet from re-filling up if the water level drops. I guess it's there to keep the toilet from running continuously if there's a leak. But I cannot seem to get it to work reliably. Has anyone gotten this to work? It's the Fluidmaster "Leak Sentry".
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2008 10:56
|
|
EVERYTHING I SAY ABOUT JAPAN OR LIVING IN JAPAN IS COMPLETELY WRONG, BUT YOU BETTER BELIEVE I'LL 
ABOUT IT.
|
El Kabong posted:I've got some recessed bathroom ceiling lights that are missing several round pieces of glass about 5 3/8in in diameter. I called around, and to get replacements cut it's going to cost me about $20 a pop, which is more than I want to pay given the free time I have available right now to figure out an alternative. Dude, cutting circles in glass is damned near impossible without a compass tool, and doubly so if you've never cut glass before. Glass is a bitch to learn to cut. So why not get some Plexiglas from Lowes, draw you circles on it, and cut it with a scroll saw? Plexy doesn't melt until 265°F, so you should be okay provided you're not using anything more than a 60 watt bulb. If you're using those fluorescent bulbs, you're totally good to go. kapalama posted:This is just a general question. There is a bit to attach to my toilet innards that stops the toilet from re-filling up if the water level drops. I guess it's there to keep the toilet from running continuously if there's a leak. But I cannot seem to get it to work reliably. Has anyone gotten this to work?
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2008 14:32
|
|
|
I am going to be moving into my own house for the first time in about a month. As such, I need to get myself at least a basic toolkit set up because there will be some stuff to do about the place. Here is my current list. Tell me what I'm missing! Screwdrivers Wrenches Pipe wrench Vice grip Pliers Volt Meter Wire stripper Hammer Sockets/Wratchet Tape measure Hack Saw Power tools
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2008 20:15
|
|
|
Alaan posted:I am going to be moving into my own house for the first time in about a month. As such, I need to get myself at least a basic toolkit set up because there will be some stuff to do about the place. Here is my current list. Tell me what I'm missing! What kind of power tools? My general rule is that I don't worry about a tool until I need it, and then I go out and buy it immediately. Still trying to find a way to need a nice mill and lathe. Being able to afford it would be nice too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2008 20:35
|
|
|
Saws- a decent wood one and a hacksaw and a mini hacksaw. Propane torch Teflon tape Caulk Assortment of good wood screws from 1.5 to 3.5 inches 3M Blue masking tape (Not Duck tape brand blue tape) Mini roller frame and replacement mini rollers for painting Spray lithium grease Graphite Quick lock clamps Lubricating wax. Staple gun Sealing foam Specifically a good cordless reversible drill with a clutch (Easiest to get a set of hex head drill bits too, but that may be spendy)
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2008 21:20
|
|
|
Blowupologist posted:What kind of power tools? My general rule is that I don't worry about a tool until I need it, and then I go out and buy it immediately. The basics to start with. Drill and circular saw 100%. Probably a sawzall.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2008 21:41
|
|
|
kapalama posted:Specifically a good cordless reversible drill with a clutch (Easiest to get a set of hex head drill bits too, but that may be spendy) Yes, I will second this. I've been on my own for a few years now and that was the first major power tool I purchased - in fact I still haven't had an absolute need to purchase any others for around-the-house work (I did pick up some air tools for my vehicles). I suppose it's me coming from years of working with my dad's collection of various power drills - a few corded ones that are older than me and a lovely cordless that doesn't work worth a drat. Any modern 14+ volt cordless has plenty of power for most jobs, battery / charger technology has come far enough to remove the worry of the packs dying in a few months, and a chuck that doesn't require a key is a godsend. The clutch helps a lot too when you're using it as a driver instead of a drill. I haven't really ever seen a need for quick-change drill bits, only quick change driver bits. I have two sets of drillbits, a basic Bosch set I received as a gift, and a large Harbor Freight set I bought myself. I suspect the Bosch set cost as much as the HF one but has literally 1/4 of the bits, if that, and the HF bits seem to work drat well (again, compared to the scores of dull ones rolling around my dad's toolchest). I can't tell the difference in actual use between one set and the other. Harbor Freight tools are usually poo poo, but there are times when the savings are considerable and the quality difference really isn't there. Like a hacksaw - a cheap hacksaw is a cheap hacksaw, so might as well get it even cheaper at Harbor Freight 
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2008 22:09
|
|
|
Okay, here's my question. I have a very nice analog wall clock. It's radio controlled so it is always at the right time. The only problem is that it's ridiculously loud, and I'm not the kind of person that can sleep very well with something like this on all the time. Is there a way to remove the ticking sound? The clock is made by a company called Tic Tac, although I couldn't find a company website or any pictures of this specific clock online. The radio controlled unit has a model number which is HD-1688, and it looks to be made by Quartz. I can post pics if it will be helpful. Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2008 04:43
|
|
|
This isn't a question as much as it is a suggestion for folks who are mildly grossed out by the idea of sitting on an old toilet seat that somebody else's rear end has been on. It turns out that a standard toilet seat can be purchased for just $5 at Home Depot. FIVE BUCKS. And all it takes to install it is a screwdriver. I've spent the last five years sitting on the toilet seat that the previous owner of my house sat on for 18 years. If I had known sooner, I would have swapped it out as soon as I moved in.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2008 07:00
|
|
|
jovial_cynic posted:This isn't a question as much as it is a suggestion for folks who are mildly grossed out by the idea of sitting on an old toilet seat that somebody else's rear end has been on. If you're grossed out by sitting on it, wait until you have to get down there and start handling those screws/bolts, that have had years of piss-mist congealing on them. Enjoy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2008 15:42
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:If you're grossed out by sitting on it, wait until you have to get down there and start handling those screws/bolts, that have had years of piss-mist congealing on them. This is why you should always have a 100 pack of disposable rubber gloves in your toolbox. Also your nightstand, but that's another thread.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2008 23:57
|
|
|
mcsuede posted:This is why you should always have a 100 pack of disposable rubber gloves in your toolbox. Also your nightstand, but that's another thread. If you're REALLY grossed out, you really don't want to replace the wax ring under the toilet, but you probably should. Small update on my problem. I discovered that I have a pinhole leak in a pipe's solder joint and even though the pipe and connection is less than 2 years old, there is a stalactite growing out of it so I think I might have hard water. Time to get a test kit!
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2008 05:19
|
|
|
I am a wrestler, and as I wrestler I am required to wear headgear when I wrestle. Chin straps in headgears only come in white and I would like to dye the chinstrap a different color. I would spray paint it but I am pretty sure it would obviously rub off, especially onto my skin while I am wrestling. I am wondering what would be the best way to dye or paint a chinstrap a different color. This is the object in question: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2008 22:52
|
|
|
You probably want to use a plastic-specific dye. If you can, contact the manufacturer of that particular item and ask them what kind of plastic is used in their chin strap. You can then do a search for "plastic dye" and make sure it's suited for whatever plastic is in your chin strap. Most dyes will probably work on the plastic, but in general it's best to make sure the products match.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2008 05:17
|
|
|
So the fan on my outside condenser unit for the A/C has decided to stop turning on. The capacitor is good and the blades spin freely. I assume that the motor has burned out, but I'm not sure exactly how to test that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2008 01:30
|
|
|
Question: What tool or Dremel attachment do I need to cut steel in the middle of it? I have a 1/8" thick steel block and I used the regular Dremel cutting wheel to create two parallel cuts which you can see in the attached picture. Now I need to cut along the red line. Any cutting wheel would be way too wide to cut that without also cutting everything to the left and right. What can I use for this?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2008 03:36
|
|
|
Anonymous Name posted:Question: What tool or Dremel attachment do I need to cut steel in the middle of it? I have a 1/8" thick steel block and I used the regular Dremel cutting wheel to create two parallel cuts which you can see in the attached picture. Now I need to cut along the red line. Any cutting wheel would be way too wide to cut that without also cutting everything to the left and right. What can I use for this? Could you bend the middle tab out, and then use a cutting wheel that way? You would have to do some grinding to get the burrs off, but I imagine you'd have to do that anyway.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2008 03:43
|
|
|
Nah, it's 1/8"-thick steel; I can't neatly bend a small part of it like that. In this case, those two existing cuts are either 1/4" or 3/4" long, and the red line is 1/2" long.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2008 03:50
|
|
|
Anonymous Name posted:Nah, it's 1/8"-thick steel; I can't neatly bend a small part of it like that. In this case, those two existing cuts are either 1/4" or 3/4" long, and the red line is 1/2" long. Cut into the steel deep enough with the cutout tool that it scores a line between your previous cuts. Repeat this on the other side. Then bend the steel tab back and forth until it breaks. You could also cut diagonal lines across the tab to remove triangles of material. Both of these methods would require you to use a file to finish the job.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2008 06:31
|
|
|
Ive seen fairly small cut off wheels that you can use with a Dremel that are probably 3/4" long. You could cut part on the bottom and part on the top and not sink the wheel all the way in and do it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2008 10:22
|
|
|
Death Pants posted:So the fan on my outside condenser unit for the A/C has decided to stop turning on. The capacitor is good and the blades spin freely. I assume that the motor has burned out, but I'm not sure exactly how to test that. How did you test that the capacitor is still good? The first test you could try is for continuity in the stator windings, second being to test for a short circuit between the windings and the motor frame. If you were to fix it, you would be better off taking the motor to an electric motor repair joint.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2008 11:44
|
|
|
Death Pants posted:So the fan on my outside condenser unit for the A/C has decided to stop turning on. The capacitor is good and the blades spin freely. I assume that the motor has burned out, but I'm not sure exactly how to test that. Make sure the relay's not hosed, too. Much cheaper to fix if it is. Basically, throw a multimeter on the leads directly to the motor- if they're not getting juice, it's relay issue.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 01:00
|
|
|
I have an idea for a small plastic kitchen utensil that would need to be custom fabricated. Does a service exist where I can send someone a CAD file and they'll fabricate it to my specs?
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 01:25
|
|
|
pukeduke posted:I have an idea for a small plastic kitchen utensil that would need to be custom fabricated. Does a service exist where I can send someone a CAD file and they'll fabricate it to my specs? If its something that can be made on a 3 axis mill and 2 axis lathe, I might be able to make it for you. I have SolidWorks, CAMworks, and access to a Hurco VM1 and TM6 (CNC Mill and Lathe) Theres also e-machine shop. I have never used this site but its been around for a while: http://www.emachineshop.com/
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 01:38
|
|
|
pukeduke posted:I have an idea for a small plastic kitchen utensil that would need to be custom fabricated. Does a service exist where I can send someone a CAD file and they'll fabricate it to my specs? This is why all hobbyists/inventors are waiting for 3D printers. THey are still out of reach, but, soon, maybe....
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 02:25
|
|
|
pukeduke posted:I have an idea for a small plastic kitchen utensil that would need to be custom fabricated. Does a service exist where I can send someone a CAD file and they'll fabricate it to my specs? Depends on the complexity of the item. There are most likely at least three machine shops close to where you live, and depending on the complexity of the item they might be capable of fabricating it. If it's a complex shape, like an actual fork, then things get more complicated. For a one-off run of a complex plastic shape your best bet is probably some kind of rapid prototyping. It's expensive, but if you want a demonstration model that actually looks decent then you would probably need to go with something like stereolithography. Unfortunately one-off parts of any description are incredibly expensive. Can you give us a bit more detail about the item?
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 02:29
|
|
|
hey, anyone know how to get the adhesive from engineered floor off concrete slab? We are ripping up the floor in our kitchen, and the glue isn't coming with it. The goal here being that we replace the old engineered floor with tile afterward.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 02:32
|
|
|
uh zip zoom posted:hey, anyone know how to get the adhesive from engineered floor off concrete slab? We are ripping up the floor in our kitchen, and the glue isn't coming with it. Floor grinder. That's what they usually use. Heat could help, but you have to worry about fumes/fire. It's going to be a lot of manual labor, unless paint thinner/some other chemical softens it enough.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 02:42
|
|
|
Blowupologist posted:Can you give us a bit more detail about the item? Yeah...it's shape is more akin to a bowl than a fork or plate...Ideally I could get like 500 of them..so I'm not looking for a one-time thing. Bulk discounts ahoy!
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 02:50
|
|
|
In that case, I would go to China, and get them to manufacture them. This requires a lot of whats known as due diligence but its lower production costs will likely pay off. Check out the manufacturers and forums at Alibaba.com and get some sort of proof that you were the first to come up with this because if your idea is good it will get stolen.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 02:56
|
|
|
pukeduke posted:Yeah...it's shape is more akin to a bowl than a fork or plate...Ideally I could get like 500 of them..so I'm not looking for a one-time thing. Bulk discounts ahoy! https://www.protomold.com is a good choice then if you would like it to be injection molded. I've heard good things about them, and at the very least their website will let you see how easy it is to injection mold your part. They'll take a common 3D model (.iges, .stp, even Pro/E and others) and use their automated process to determine the ideal method of injection molding it. There are also plenty of local places that may be competitive from a fabrication standpoint. Here in MD Chesapeake Plastics has developed a very good reputation.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 03:12
|
|
|
I bought an awesome used China Hutch at a swap meet last Friday (Canton First Mondays for you Texans) but the problem is, the hutch is stained a VERY Cherry red and my dining room furniture is a dark brown Oak color, including the paneling along the bottom half of my dining room. It also has a few bumps, bruises and scratches so it really doesn't look its best right now, so no matter what I want to do something to fix it I'm somewhat handy, but I've never "stripped" stained wood before. A friend said I'd probably need to sand it all the way out and then re-stain. How feasible/hard is this? How likely is it that I'd ruin the entire thing by sanding too much? Another possibility is to paint the hutch. I normally think painting over solid wood is practically a crime, but I really don't want to leave it Cherry. There seems to be a thin layer of not very shiny varnish on top. Would I need to sand it still, or just do a coat of primer? Bonus crappy cell phone pic of the hutch in my dining room, the washed out colors in the pic don't do justice to the amount of clashing it does: 
Annakie fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Apr 7, 2008 |
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 17:07
|
|
|
Annakie posted:I bought an awesome used China Hutch at a swap meet last Friday (Canton First Mondays for you Texans) but the problem is, the hutch is stained a VERY Cherry red and my dining room furniture is a dark brown Oak color, including the paneling along the bottom half of my living room. It also has a few bumps, bruises and scratches so it really doesn't look its best right now, so no matter what I want to do something to fix it No matter whether you decide to paint it or restain it, you will need to remove the existing varnish and stain. If you paint over the top of varnish, even with a primer, it will adhere poorly, and look terrible. If you just remove the varnish and then repaint, then the stain will most likely bleed through the paint. It looks like a fairly simple design, so you should be able to sand it all back without too much trouble. You will basically need to sand back to as close to bare timber as you can get it to get the best finish, be it restained or painted.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 17:54
|
|
|
You can't sand too much as long as its even and removes the previous layer.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 19:39
|
|
|
I'm in the process of removing 85 years of wallpaper from my master bedroom. Most all of the removal gets me to the original lathe and plaster. Removal has also uncovered all kinds of 'fun' stuff. Plaster patches, various wall sections done in plaster (I think these were for temporary wall adds and subtracts). Long story short, when i'm done with the wallpaper removal I'll have some sections that are smooth plaster, some that are the rough old lathe and plaster, etc. I plan on painting this when I'm done. the two options i think i have: 1) finish removing the wallpaper and put a coating of texture on over everything to make everything seamless, then paint. 2) dont bother with the wallpaper removal, put some drywall over the walls, remove mouldings/door trim/etc. and cut it to accomodate the thicker walls, put some texture on and then paint. Are there any options I'm missing? Is there a reason or advantage of doing one over the other? Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2008 20:06
|
|
|
I'm looking for a material I can mount against a painted wall to prevent dings in the paint - acting as an armor. I need something that is as invisible or least obtrusive as possible because it's going in a restaurant and is mounted on a wall with colorful paint. The dimensions would need to be about a 2 to 4" tall by 25 to 40" wide. Depth doesn't matter. It just needs to protect the wall and look good. This is close to what I need, but the sizes they're sold in are impractical for my situation. It would be bolted onto the wall to stand up to long-term abuse. http://www.amazon.com/Park-Smart-Guard-Clear-Individual/dp/B0002UQ9XU It might also be possible to "cushion" the trash cans that are banging into the wall instead, but I can't think of how to do that without looking ghetto. Also, the trash cans get wet and are subject to a lot of daily abuse, so that would need to be considered as well. If anyone has a recommendation on a type of material to use, how to use it, and where I can get it, I would be very appreciative. My local Home Depot didn't have any plastics or plexiglass for sale that would work in such a situation, so I'm really out of ideas other than the imperfect product linked above. Thank you.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2008 10:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 13:14 |
|
|
Some metals/materials suppliers can supply you with plastic, but it'll probably be pricey. Any plastic would work.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2008 10:06
|
|