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regulargonzalez
Aug 18, 2006
UNGH LET ME LICK THOSE BOOTS DADDY HULU ;-* ;-* ;-* YES YES GIVE ME ALL THE CORPORATE CUMMIES :shepspends: :shepspends: :shepspends: ADBLOCK USERS DESERVE THE DEATH PENALTY, DON'T THEY DADDY?
WHEN THE RICH GET RICHER I GET HORNIER :a2m::a2m::a2m::a2m:

Renovating a bathroom right now and tearing up the floor down to the subfloor. What's on top of the subfloor that I'm getting rid of is 1/2" plywood underlayment and a few layers of linoleum. I've been using a circular saw to cut through the underlayment, I've been cutting a grid and with a prybar just pulling up the underlayment. This is all fine except by the vanity. It's a built in vanity that I'm keeping. The base is set about 3" deeper back than the cabinet box. That cabinet box is about 3" above the linoleum. I can't think of a good way to pull up that section of underlayment. The gap between the overhanging cabinets is too small for a mini circular saw. I can use a multitool to get under the underlayment and cut through and nails but 1, that'll be tedious, and 2 I'm pretty sure the underlayment continues under the vanity so I still need a way to cut vertically through the underlayment at the cabinet base in order to pull it up.

I thought maybe I'll just leave it and put my own underlayment to butt up against it, but that underlayment is a true 1/2" and Home Depot et all only have 7/16". After you figure in the layers of linoleum that would be a 1/8" difference which is just too much I think.

Ideas?

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regulargonzalez
Aug 18, 2006
UNGH LET ME LICK THOSE BOOTS DADDY HULU ;-* ;-* ;-* YES YES GIVE ME ALL THE CORPORATE CUMMIES :shepspends: :shepspends: :shepspends: ADBLOCK USERS DESERVE THE DEATH PENALTY, DON'T THEY DADDY?
WHEN THE RICH GET RICHER I GET HORNIER :a2m::a2m::a2m::a2m:

Thanks all. The problem is that I'm pretty sure the underlayment goes under the vanity. And good point about how I'd even nail down the underlayment under the vanity, but I guess I can rely on glue for those few inches

I'll post pics later today.

E: https://imgur.com/a/UxDRd8D

And the vanity is attached to the wall on three sides. For all intents and purposes it can't be non-destructively removed.

E2: and using 1/2" at this point isn't an option. It's a jack-and-Jill and I've already done the 7/16" underlayment and redguard'd it in the other two rooms

regulargonzalez fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Oct 4, 2020

regulargonzalez
Aug 18, 2006
UNGH LET ME LICK THOSE BOOTS DADDY HULU ;-* ;-* ;-* YES YES GIVE ME ALL THE CORPORATE CUMMIES :shepspends: :shepspends: :shepspends: ADBLOCK USERS DESERVE THE DEATH PENALTY, DON'T THEY DADDY?
WHEN THE RICH GET RICHER I GET HORNIER :a2m::a2m::a2m::a2m:

I'm planning on redoing my kitchen floor with 6" x 36" plank tile. I've torn out the existing floor down to the subfloor. Every single thing I've read online basically says "uh, hire a professional for plank tile because your floor has to be way more flat than it is" and that you can only have 1/8" variance over 10'.

So, I get if it's not level within a given 36" length but does it really need to be that flat over that length? I mean if it's a very even rise from one end to the other that ends up being 1/4" over 8' I can't see why it would matter. Again, assuming the rise is even throughout.

Fwiw there's practically no lippage on the tiles and I plan on doing a 33% offset. Anyone have experience with this? I've only done square and 6" x 12" tile before and all the WARNING messages have me a bit on edge.

regulargonzalez
Aug 18, 2006
UNGH LET ME LICK THOSE BOOTS DADDY HULU ;-* ;-* ;-* YES YES GIVE ME ALL THE CORPORATE CUMMIES :shepspends: :shepspends: :shepspends: ADBLOCK USERS DESERVE THE DEATH PENALTY, DON'T THEY DADDY?
WHEN THE RICH GET RICHER I GET HORNIER :a2m::a2m::a2m::a2m:

AFewBricksShy posted:

Flat!=level is the biggest thing to realize here.
Your floor does not have to be level. With a 36” tile though, flat will make your life way easier.
I’m assuming by subfloor you mean the plywood floor. You’re going to want to put hardibacker down on top of that. Here’s a link to my “tiling a kitchen floor” post I made last year. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734807&userid=38284#post497799879
With a 33% running bond 6x36 should go perfectly but you’re again going to want to make sure the floor is reasonably flat, so no major bumps or anything. The easiest way of checking that is to get a straightedge and lay it on the floor. If there’s virtually nowhere where it is obviously screwed up you’ll be ok. If there is, depending on how bad, you might want to look into some floor patching. You don’t want self leveling if your floor is out of level you’ll want something to fix it. Our go-to is ardex am100.

If your floor isn’t too bad and you use a reasonable joint (3/16 or so) you should be okay. Just ensure you’re checking for lippage as you set, and you’re going to want to have a nice heavy notch trowel 1/4x3/8 ish or so, so that you have room to smoosh tiles down if necessary, or pop them back up and get some more mortar under if necessary in certain spots. I know I didn’t answer all your questions so let me know what I missed.

That's great, thanks for this! What are your thoughts on leveling spacers? Like QEP Lash

regulargonzalez
Aug 18, 2006
UNGH LET ME LICK THOSE BOOTS DADDY HULU ;-* ;-* ;-* YES YES GIVE ME ALL THE CORPORATE CUMMIES :shepspends: :shepspends: :shepspends: ADBLOCK USERS DESERVE THE DEATH PENALTY, DON'T THEY DADDY?
WHEN THE RICH GET RICHER I GET HORNIER :a2m::a2m::a2m::a2m:

How important is the air gap unit when installing a dishwasher? I've seen everything from "absolutely mandatory or your dishes will be covered in sewage" to "eh, usually not really needed"

regulargonzalez
Aug 18, 2006
UNGH LET ME LICK THOSE BOOTS DADDY HULU ;-* ;-* ;-* YES YES GIVE ME ALL THE CORPORATE CUMMIES :shepspends: :shepspends: :shepspends: ADBLOCK USERS DESERVE THE DEATH PENALTY, DON'T THEY DADDY?
WHEN THE RICH GET RICHER I GET HORNIER :a2m::a2m::a2m::a2m:

Bathroom toilet shut off has a strange connection
http://imgur.com/a/v235BV2
It has a slow drip. The middle silver thing can rotate independently of the shut off. No matter what direction I turn anything, no matter how many times, nothing seems to tighten or loosen. The shut-off and/or the middle silver cylinder are happy just to spin around forever.

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regulargonzalez
Aug 18, 2006
UNGH LET ME LICK THOSE BOOTS DADDY HULU ;-* ;-* ;-* YES YES GIVE ME ALL THE CORPORATE CUMMIES :shepspends: :shepspends: :shepspends: ADBLOCK USERS DESERVE THE DEATH PENALTY, DON'T THEY DADDY?
WHEN THE RICH GET RICHER I GET HORNIER :a2m::a2m::a2m::a2m:

Definitely, but I can't figure out how to get it off 😬

E: multi-tool'd that fucker

regulargonzalez fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Oct 17, 2020

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