|
Renovating a bathroom right now and tearing up the floor down to the subfloor. What's on top of the subfloor that I'm getting rid of is 1/2" plywood underlayment and a few layers of linoleum. I've been using a circular saw to cut through the underlayment, I've been cutting a grid and with a prybar just pulling up the underlayment. This is all fine except by the vanity. It's a built in vanity that I'm keeping. The base is set about 3" deeper back than the cabinet box. That cabinet box is about 3" above the linoleum. I can't think of a good way to pull up that section of underlayment. The gap between the overhanging cabinets is too small for a mini circular saw. I can use a multitool to get under the underlayment and cut through and nails but 1, that'll be tedious, and 2 I'm pretty sure the underlayment continues under the vanity so I still need a way to cut vertically through the underlayment at the cabinet base in order to pull it up. I thought maybe I'll just leave it and put my own underlayment to butt up against it, but that underlayment is a true 1/2" and Home Depot et all only have 7/16". After you figure in the layers of linoleum that would be a 1/8" difference which is just too much I think. Ideas?
|
# ¿ Oct 4, 2020 07:17 |
|
|
# ¿ May 2, 2024 23:45 |
|
Thanks all. The problem is that I'm pretty sure the underlayment goes under the vanity. And good point about how I'd even nail down the underlayment under the vanity, but I guess I can rely on glue for those few inches I'll post pics later today. E: https://imgur.com/a/UxDRd8D And the vanity is attached to the wall on three sides. For all intents and purposes it can't be non-destructively removed. E2: and using 1/2" at this point isn't an option. It's a jack-and-Jill and I've already done the 7/16" underlayment and redguard'd it in the other two rooms regulargonzalez fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Oct 4, 2020 |
# ¿ Oct 4, 2020 18:59 |
|
I'm planning on redoing my kitchen floor with 6" x 36" plank tile. I've torn out the existing floor down to the subfloor. Every single thing I've read online basically says "uh, hire a professional for plank tile because your floor has to be way more flat than it is" and that you can only have 1/8" variance over 10'. So, I get if it's not level within a given 36" length but does it really need to be that flat over that length? I mean if it's a very even rise from one end to the other that ends up being 1/4" over 8' I can't see why it would matter. Again, assuming the rise is even throughout. Fwiw there's practically no lippage on the tiles and I plan on doing a 33% offset. Anyone have experience with this? I've only done square and 6" x 12" tile before and all the WARNING messages have me a bit on edge.
|
# ¿ Oct 9, 2020 19:58 |
|
AFewBricksShy posted:Flat!=level is the biggest thing to realize here. That's great, thanks for this! What are your thoughts on leveling spacers? Like QEP Lash
|
# ¿ Oct 10, 2020 01:57 |
|
How important is the air gap unit when installing a dishwasher? I've seen everything from "absolutely mandatory or your dishes will be covered in sewage" to "eh, usually not really needed"
|
# ¿ Oct 11, 2020 18:47 |
|
Bathroom toilet shut off has a strange connection http://imgur.com/a/v235BV2 It has a slow drip. The middle silver thing can rotate independently of the shut off. No matter what direction I turn anything, no matter how many times, nothing seems to tighten or loosen. The shut-off and/or the middle silver cylinder are happy just to spin around forever.
|
# ¿ Oct 17, 2020 21:20 |
|
|
# ¿ May 2, 2024 23:45 |
|
Definitely, but I can't figure out how to get it off 😬 E: multi-tool'd that fucker regulargonzalez fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Oct 17, 2020 |
# ¿ Oct 17, 2020 22:10 |