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I've got a Maytag A806 washer from like 1977 that's recently gone like way off balance. Does anyone have a clue how to balance the drum on one of these things, or even a general idea of where to look? It's walking a foot or so every time I do a load.
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Jul 21, 2010 04:39
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:If it's from 1977, I bet one or more of the arms that holds the drum to the motor is broken and it's time for a new washer. But then I'd have to buy a new dryer too so it'll match.  And I was wrong on the date, apparently it's 1967, not 1977.  Sadly, a new washer requires spending money I don't have right now. I'll take a look at the damping springs first. EDIT: Springs are present, the support arms are still solidly attached to the chassis with not a spot of rust on them, (although the bottom of the chassis has a nice patina) so all I can think of is that the counterbalance on the transmission has somehow gone out of whack. corgski fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Jul 22, 2010 |
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Jul 22, 2010 09:14
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You could make it freestanding, just throw 100 pounds of free weights in the bottom.
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Aug 9, 2010 08:35
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Ahz posted:The cordless won't have the power. It will if you buy a cordless percussion drill like the one I have. e:f,b
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Oct 14, 2010 08:53
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Naphtha (lighter fluid) usually does the job for removing tricky adhesives. And as an aside, tell your friend to replace the glue traps with good 'ol spring traps. Not only are they more humane than starving them to death, but mice that get caught in glue traps often tend to chew their own limbs off and leave little bloody trails across the floor until they die from blood loss in some corner and stink up the whole place. corgski fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Nov 5, 2010 |
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Nov 5, 2010 05:52
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politicorific posted:4) I'm not in the US, these aren't apartment complexes and of course it'd be done with the permission of the guy I'd be renting from. They're becoming more an more common here in Korea. Landlords in general frown on people changing their locks on them. The country you're in doesn't matter.
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Jan 2, 2011 20:49
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A LOVELY LAD posted:My oven hood lights blew up a few days back, tripped the switch which I turned back on. One bulb broke off and the other just went leaving the bulb intact. Half of a cut potato. Just jam it on there and twist, and it'll usually take the screw base out with it.
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Feb 16, 2011 03:32
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Release the Magic Blue Smoke, it's the Learning Electronics MEGATHREAD
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Jun 2, 2011 16:37
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Never, never wear gloves when using power tools, or anywhere near moving belts or pulleys. Your hand can and will get trapped. You're much better off without.
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Sep 10, 2011 05:48
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By power tool, I meant tool with moving parts. Of course you'll want to wear welding gloves when welding, even if you're using a torch and not a MIG or TIG welder. 
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Sep 11, 2011 03:39
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Print it on a transparency, shoot the transparency at the 4x8 using an overhead projector and trace it.
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Sep 16, 2011 21:50
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If neutral and ground are bonded anywhere besides the main panel, the ground will be carrying current, which is a bad thing.
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Sep 30, 2011 06:31
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The black wire is important fyi, red is right signal, white is left signal, and black is common signal ground.
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Oct 18, 2011 21:27
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I would cheat and put some simple wood trim on the left and right sides, saving me from having to make any complicated cuts in tolex. Jigsaw work is much easier.
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Dec 21, 2011 19:59
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That many 2-bys from someone who actually cuts them properly and out of a real wood (not cheap-rear end lovely pine) and it'll cost as much, if not more, as buying a proper countertop. He'd be better off laminating a bunch of wide boards together into a tabletop, or buying a prefabricated top, and then coating the finished slab with a veneer of whatever wood he wants. The top of my desk, for example, is several 1x12s of decent wood laminated together into a 2"x5'x3' slab. All you need to do the lamination is a lot of glue, and a lot, lot more weight to throw on top of it. corgski fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Dec 23, 2011 |
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Dec 23, 2011 14:34
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Do you really have the mechanical one anywhere you can hear it on a regular basis? I have one in my front hall and another in my kitchen, and you can pretty much only hear them if you're right next to them.
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Jan 11, 2012 22:27
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A chunk of 3/8 inch plywood cut to size and nailed over the window from the outside should be enough to pass muster. Ghetto as hell, but it gives you motivation to fix it properly once it warms up! Mortar, especially quickcrete-brand like you'd find at home depot or lowes, doesn't work too well (read: at all) below 32 degrees.
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Feb 9, 2012 08:00
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Cakefool posted:If either is ground & you connect the live through a bulb it should trip your breaker, Um no, Unless you're running fancy GFCI or AFCI breakers, which are uncommon in anything but very new construction, you can swap ground and neutral and nothing will happen... well except that you'll have current running through your ground creating a possible shock hazard. Your easiest solution is to pull a fresh ground and neutral. Alternately, you could break the ground-neutral bond at your main panel, make sure there's no continuity between them, and then tone out the wires. Make sure to tape them with the appropriate colors once you find what they are. corgski fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Feb 14, 2012 |
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Feb 13, 2012 23:58
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The proper way to do it would be to wet-sand the metal, then use an etching primer, and then put your final finish on top of that, but if you're just using rattle-cans it's gonna look like rear end anyway, so don't bother doing prep.
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Mar 24, 2012 06:00
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For a driveway, you'd want to lay a concrete slab driveway and then lay the brick pavers on top of the slab.
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May 22, 2012 21:24
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Cakefool posted:Nope, even driveways are laid on gravel & sand. Those decorative brick pavers are laid on a concrete slab laid on the gravel/sand base if you're going to do it right.
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May 22, 2012 22:04
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ejstheman posted:I got a 12oz glass Mexican Coke bottle at a Mexican restaurant by my work. I'm trying to decide whether I want to cut it off at the shoulder, to make it easier to clean (because then it will be a tube instead of a bottle), or whether I want to leave the mouth of the bottle alone and just figure it can be cleaned with some sort of solution, so I don't need to be able to scrub the inside. Since it's glass you can leave the mouth as is and just rinse it with acetone when it gets gunky.
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Jun 19, 2012 04:41
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Let me guess, exposed ceilings? The apartment was probably designed with drop ceilings in mind and then they renovated it after exposed steel became popular. Your best bet would be hanging some "unistrut" from the beams with beam clamps and then suspending acoustic panels (or just some heavy drapery) of some sort from it. The fiberboard is unnecessary.
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Jun 19, 2012 07:36
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GWBBQ posted:My bedroom light is a two-socket ceiling fixture controlled by a dimmer switch. If I replace one incandescent bulb with a 12w Philips AmbientLED, it works fine. If I replace both, they flicker like crazy at full power or dimmed. Can I assume it's because it's an old switch and not a leading edge dimmer? Yep. New dimmer will probably fix it.
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Jun 20, 2012 04:28
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grover posted:More likely not. Well his options are using a proper modern dimmer, which has like an 80% chance of working (more like 100% since he's using high quality Philips LEDs) for $25 and change or buying an externally controlled fixture and the necessary hardware to feed it DMX, which will have a 100% chance of working and a $2500 price tag. Trust me, I install this poo poo for a living. corgski fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Jun 22, 2012 |
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Jun 21, 2012 04:36
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grover posted:Has there been some fundamental change in dimmer technology in the last 5 years that they finally work properly with CFLs and LEDs? Yeah. Dimmers designed for CFLs and LEDs don't use SCRs which just clamp off the current at a certain point in the sine wave, but much, much higher frequency digital PWM. Look at Lutron and Leviton dimmers. E: Lutron:http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-DVCL-153P-WH-Dimmable-Dimmer-White/dp/B004DZOMKC Leviton: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-6674-P0W-SureSlide-Universal-Incandescent/dp/B0076HPM8A corgski fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Jun 22, 2012 |
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Jun 22, 2012 06:09
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Vise-grips once saved a friend of mine's life.
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Aug 25, 2012 05:23
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kid sinister posted:Forget the dope, tape is fine. Just turn that elbow one more complete turn. From what he's been saying, the threads are cut such that he can't without over torquing it and stripping the threads.
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Sep 1, 2012 01:21
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It looks like the neck and bridge are still seated, just JB-Weld that fucker back together. It's a solidbody electric, you could make one out of boards from shipping pallets epoxied together and it would work the same. If you really want to make a guitar body, just cut a funky shape out of some cheap hardwood with a bandsaw, round the edges with a router, sand the whole thing smooth, and route out a neck pocket and the holes for the electronics. The only measurements you need to worry about are matching the depth of the neck pocket and the distance between the bridge and the nut. You can match the pickup placement if you want, or you can put them somewhere different. It's up to you!
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Sep 5, 2012 04:18
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Interstitial Abs posted:So beaten, but YES to wood glue and NO to JB Weld (unless they are making wood glue now). Since that is a solid body bass it really won't affect the tone too much, since most of an electric guitars tone come from the pickups. No, they aren't, I was just exaggerating to make a point. Any good adhesive for porous surfaces will work. It would be different if it were a hollow or semi-hollow electric, but for a solidbody, the wood's sole purpose is to hold the strings and electronics. corgski fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Sep 6, 2012 |
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Sep 6, 2012 02:08
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My guess is that it's built like warehouse storage cages, where they frame out some walls, slap 8x4 sheets of plywood on the there and then staple screen in to cover from 8' to whatever the ceiling height is... Only when it was converted into a loft, the walls were finished slightly better and plywood was screwed to the furring strips that held the screen in.
corgski fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Sep 25, 2012 |
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Sep 25, 2012 21:29
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Simple Green. Stuff is magic and was made for cleaning industrial coffeemakers.
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Nov 30, 2012 23:54
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Tell them to fix it or you're hiring a HVAC specialist and taking it off the rent.
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Dec 20, 2012 16:58
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Double check your state laws, most states explicitly state in renter's rights laws: If the outside temperature is X then the renter must be provided with a functioning heater, yadda yadda. Many states you cannot deduct the cost of repairs from your rent. In most states you're not obligated to pay any rent if the property is "uninhabitable." Taking the cost of the repair off the rent is being generous.
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Dec 20, 2012 17:16
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BRB MAKIN BACON posted:I don't know what to say in response to this except in my personal experience they have lasted a lot longer. At my last theatre we had cans that were over ten years old and still usable when we had to touch up walls and trim. And that was just with the lid on tight.
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Jan 19, 2013 18:45
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I just moved in to a newly renovated apartment (building is from the late 1700s but was completely gutted in 2011, so the windows and insulation are all new) with a gas forced hot air furnace that is insanely, insanely dry. Right now I'm keeping the heat turned down and running a humidifier, but it's noisy as hell and having a hard time keeping up. What other options do I have?
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Mar 22, 2013 13:00
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:How big is the apartment? 800sqft, and it's an open floorplan. The furnace is accessible, and there is a cold water line running out to the heat exchanger for the AC, but there is no tap in the closet for any accessories, so I'd have to get the landlord involved, if that is even something they'd be willing to do. Right now I'm just using a cheap little vicks branded one that I got from salval so I could sleep at night. This one in particular: http://www.vicks.com/products/humidifiers/v4500-filterfree-humidifier/ I think the ratings on that page say it all. It barely gets the bedroom up to a tolerable humidity, running constantly. This is actually the first house I've lived in that has had forced hot air to the bedrooms, all the previous ones had a small forced hot air furnace to keep the pipes from freezing and then electric baseboard heat or electric radiators in the remaining rooms, so humidity was never a problem. corgski fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Mar 22, 2013 |
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Mar 22, 2013 16:57
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Motronic's reply wasn't directed to you, the. As for the patch, just apply some joint compound, same as if you were filling a nail hole or dent. That's a guide for filling a large hole.
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Jul 7, 2013 01:46
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Re: Mowerchat It is also very possible that your gas mower might have a two-stroke engine, in which case there is no dipstick or oil fill cap and you add the oil to the fuel. Lots of small engines are two-strokes.
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Aug 29, 2013 22:50
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Wagonburner posted:Old pre-90s lawn-boys yes, and if it's one of those you might be able to make a decent bit of $$ selling it. They have a bit of a following. Were there any other 2stroke mowers? I've not heard of any. My parents bought some kind of self-propelled two stroke mower new in the late 90s, I can't remember the make, but I do remember having to keep track of the gas cans.
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Aug 31, 2013 20:00
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