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JnnyThndrs posted:It'll look lumpy if you don't have a pefectly flat surface to glue the new material on, so you either have to do some sort of underlayment(underlayment = thin layer of plywood or chipboard) or get every_freaking_bit of old adhesive off the concrete. But you're going to want to make sure there is a vapor barrier between the concrete and the plywood as I'm assuming you're talking about a foundation slab here so moisture/etc will leech up through the concrete and into the plywood which will cause your adhesive to fail.
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Jan 7, 2008 20:25
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Concrete is a very difficult medium to glue things on because of it's porous nature, propensity to hold water and wierd ph levels.
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elsanto posted:My clothes washer's discharge hose sprung a leak, so I cut in half, joined the halves with a barb, and then hose clamped them. The hose still leaks a little, and after try ing PVC cement and a rubber adhesive to stop it, I am out of ideas. Is there a compound or adhesive that would stop leaks in a plastic hose. What the hell is it? For the price of hoses, I'm going to suggest you just buy a new one. They're right around  . I'm pretty sure PVC glue has solvents in there that will degrade the rubber on a hose and you really don't want to flood your laundry room.
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Jan 7, 2008 20:28
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Apps posted:You know the little valve-like thing at the base of a toilet? Every so often, my toilet's bowl will start bubbling and huge amounts of bubbles (no water) will seep out of that valve. If I flush the toilet, it either backs up or bubbles come out of the shower drain. That's something that you should be worried about. The fact that the toilet and the laundry are draining on the same line isn't so concerning but the fact that they're not actually draining is. What is probably happening is that the drain pipes aren't slopped enough so there isn't enough force from gravity to keep them flowing causing them to back up into the pipe. When you flush the toilet, you're forcing it back out of the shower. Right now, it's just bubbles. But think of it this way: if you can force the bubbles from the toilet to shower, what else can make its way into the shower?
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Jan 7, 2008 20:37
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IMJack posted:The bathtub in my new house seems to be elevated about a tile's width above the floor, and there doesn't seem to be a seal between the bottom lip of the tub and the tiles of the floor. Not only is that overhanging lip a mildew farm, but I can feel a draft coming through there and I think it's an access point for small insects. So I want to seal that lip up with some caulk or something. What would you guys recommend for cleaning and sealing that gap? Keep in mind I have maybe 3 inches of clearance between the bottom of the tub and the floor. My first concern would be that the tub is properly supported. If there's that much of a gap, I'm slightly concerned that perhaps the supports are too tall and could be creating stress points on the tub. But if you haven't noticed any shifting or warping of the tub, you should be good to just spray some expanding insulation stuff in there (a little goes a long way with that stuff, don't be one of the jerks that fills in the entire cavity with it) to keep out the draft/insects and then get a piece of fiberglass or rubber edge trim that will match your tub/bathroom and cover the gap with that. If your bathtub is completely flush with the walls around it, you may want to do the entire room just to keep it looking uniform. Make sure that that trim is OK for bathrooms. Wood is generally not a good idea because of the amount of prep/upkeep it requires to keep it safe and clean. Some composites will also disintegrate in high moisture environments. Make sure to seal the trim at the top, bottom, and sides with a silicone sealant to prevent water from getting under your tub/tiles as this can cause mold/mildew and cause your tiles to crack or come up. Edit: vvvvv My concern with that is that he said there are three inches of clearance. Filling that in with sealant would be a messy/ugly job. Edit 2: Blowupologist makes a good point. I'm interpreting it as a three inch high gap through the entire length of the tub. If it's a three inch long gap, then my instructions are overkill. monkeybounce fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jan 7, 2008 |
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Jan 7, 2008 21:59
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blearghhh posted:
I would go with the video diagnostic. If it were a normal sewer, I'd say rotoroot away, but septic tanks are a different story and much more expensive to fix/much messier if you gently caress something up. As for the pipe sticking up, I'm assuming it's just a clean-out and is there specifically for auguring out the pipes, but it most definitely should be capped. If it's just allowing raw sewage to spill unabated into the basement, that's a problem in and of itself.
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Jan 8, 2008 04:14
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poo poo
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Deacon of Delicious posted:I need suggestions for getting around not having a router. I'll have a rectangular hole in a piece of wood, and I need to make recessions on two of the sides for a mounting plate. The recessions need to be about 2"x1/2"x1/3". I don't have a router and I don't know anyone who does, and all I need are these two little recessions. The only thing I can think of is carefully using a sanding block or a file. Anyone have any ideas? I'm a little confused, but I think what you're saying is you have a hole in wood and need to notch it out another 2"? If that's the case, you can use a jig saw to knock out the notches. Kind of like this: Linked since no longer helpful to the poster, but maybe to someone It may take some sanding out and a steady hand, but it should work for you. monkeybounce fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Jan 19, 2008 |
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Jan 19, 2008 04:21
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Deacon of Delicious posted:Sorry, I could have been clearer. Here's a crappy MSPaint to illustrate: Sans router, your best bet would be hammer and chisel--the way they did these things before power tools. Just make sure to take out small chunks at a time and constantly measure to make sure you're not going any deeper than you want. The best idea is to draw out the area you want to chisel away and "cut" your pencil lines with the chisel by holding it 90 degrees and going straight down with the flat side of the chisel to the "finished" part of the box. Then just hold your chisel at a shallow angle and start carving away. It's going to take time and patience and a lot of sanding, but it will work. Though a good chisel set can easily cost you as much as a cheaper router. Edit: ^^^^  NEVER use a screwdriver as a chisel or prying device. They aren't manufactured for that kind of stress and can easily snap or shatter causing you to stab yourself with a jagged piece of metal or send jagged bits of metal flying into the eyes of those around you! Seriously, never use a tool in a fashion for which it wasn't designed. That's just stupid.
monkeybounce fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Jan 19, 2008 |
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Jan 19, 2008 18:15
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ail posted:I'm working on my bathroom. There's no secret really. Just make sure you have a good measuring tape. Not some dollar store tape that is probably measured incorrectly and is going to bind and kink up on you everytime you pull it out thus causing your measurements to suffer. For the chair rail that you're putting up, the best thing you can probably get yourself at this point is a good quality laser level. Not one of the crappy ones you see on TV or in Walmart. Measure up to where you want the chair rail and let the laser do the leveling for you. It's the least infuriating way to get things done, in my opinion.
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Jan 19, 2008 18:27
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^^^^^ The only problem I could foresee with a Dremel would be gumming of the blades/stones/wires/whatever bit you're using from the glue that makes up the MDF. That said, however, a Dremel would probably work out pretty drat good well. Just make sure to have some extra [ insert head of choice ] because they will gum up as the glue melts from the friction. Also, please make sure to wear a respirator (those cheap rear end paper/surgical masks don't do poo poo) as the particulate matter from MDF plays hell on your lungs. As for files, they might work, but you're going to have quite the difficulty actually getting the right shapes you want. And sorry if I'm doing the whole annoying safety lesson stuff. 
monkeybounce fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Jan 20, 2008 |
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Jan 20, 2008 01:55
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ail posted:Is there some reason the paint on my walls is so easily chipped - and why it is revealing the original coat despite a layer of primer, a layer of paint, then two more coats of paint (in a slightly lighter shade)?Is this the cause? I've had to do small touchups because the blue paint has been knicked by something or other and suddenly there's a large white dot in a sea of blue. Admittedly I didn't get premium paint, but the cheaper stuff from Lowe's. This is probably 95% of your problem. I'm assuming the paint you got was a little thinner and more watery? It probably doesn't have a good ratio of bonding agents to volume which will cuase it to fail. The cheap paint isn't that much cheaper. You also mention that you cleaned your walls. With what did you clean them? Anything that can leave a bit of a residue--including standard soap and water--can cause paint to fail. What you really want to clean your walls with before painting is TSP. It's a heavy duty degreaser and it will make sure there's nothing on your walls that will cause the paint to fail.
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Jan 21, 2008 02:47
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ail posted:TSP. That's why the cheap stuff isn't really that much cheaper. And I don't work for the company or anything, but KILZ is the only primer you should ever use. It's about 25-30 bucks a gallon, but that poo poo is wonderful and will even give a bit more life force to the cheap paint--but don't use cheap paint, regardless. Hoga posted:So I wanted to try and make a shelfing unit for my DVD's and computer games, but I can't decide what to make it out of. The biggest issue with PVC piping is that it's designed to be inside of walls and under cabinets so it's going to look like poo poo sitting in the middle of your living room. There's no good way to paint/finish it, so it's really going to look cheap and tacky. It will also scratch easily and have all sorts of embossed logos/measurements/etc. And it doesn't sound weird. I made all of my living room tables/shelves out of galvanized pipe. It's industrial, yet sleek. But it would be heavier than what you want. That said, copper tubing would probably look pretty sleek and sexy. It's really no more difficult to work with than PVC if you use epoxy or something instead of soldering the joints. I believe there's also a compound called 'liquid solder' for copper pipes, but I've never used it so I can't testify to it's durability/usability. Basically, what you're going to want is a bunch of 90 degree elbows, straight pieces, and T joins. It all depends on how big/how many shelves you want. Get a copper cutter (it's a little cutting wheel that you tighten as you turn to cut the pipe) and then have at it. You won't have to worry about cleaning or sweating the joins if you don't solder (and if you do want to solder, then make sure to read up on it and try it out on some scrap pieces as you can really make some ugly mistakes) so it should be easier than iKea furniture once you get your design figured out. And just to throw it in there, it's shelving. monkeybounce fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Jan 21, 2008 |
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Jan 21, 2008 06:32
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woops, double post. Sorry folks.
monkeybounce fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Jan 21, 2008 |
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Jan 21, 2008 06:40
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Hoga posted:Thanks a ton Unfortunately, it's going to be pretty expensive. You're talking at least about 24' of pipe per shelf. (Each one of those measurements X 4). With those dimensions, I would estimate easily 100 bucks a shelf. But I am confused about the layout of your shelves. Why would they need to be 14" deep for DVDs? A standard dvd case is about 7.5" X 5.25 so at maximum you would need them to be 5.5 deep. And if you made a 54" tall shelf, you would be able to fit 6 shelves with a 7th top shelf comfortably.
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Jan 22, 2008 19:03
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Richard Noggin posted:Yeah, it is probably about time to replace it. I've heard bad things about having a tankless on a well though, due to the pressure changes that come from the well pump cycling. If you have/get a tank with a pressurized internal bladder, you'll be fine with a tankless heater as the bladder keeps the pressure constant. Basically, it's a bag inside of the pump tank that holds the water. The tank is then pressurized and keeps X amount of pressure on the bag at all times so you end up with even pressure while the tank is draining/refilling. I thought they were commonplace, but apparently they're not.
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Dec 29, 2008 02:30
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Richard Noggin posted:Not sure that I do...how does one tell? I have a pressure switch on the tank, and the switch kicks in at about 40PSI and off at around 60PSI. Or, does every pressure tank have a switch? Every tank has a pressure switch, it's how the pump knows to turn off.  Do you have a schrader valve on your tank itself? It looks like a stem valve from a car or bicycle tire and allows you to "inflate" the tank. If you don't have that, you probably just have a standard tank. Think a steel drum filled with water. That's going to allow fluctuations in pressure that would be troublesome for your application since the pressure will deplete over time as the air dissolves into the water. Also, when you open the outlet (running a sink, etc), you'll lose pressure immediately and won't regain it until the pump kicks on. The bladder keeps the air separated from the water so you don't experience dissolution and it keeps a semi-constant pressure on the bladder even when the outlet is open.
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Jan 1, 2009 00:24
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kapalama posted:Just so you know the last guy that tried that, on the recommendation of this thread, blew out the wiring in his whole house. I'm sorry, if I ever have to "jam" something into a lamp, I usually unplug it. If I can't unplug it, I turn it off. What is with people and electricity? As soon as the lightbulb burns out, they think the power is off and safe to play with. Electricity can kill you, people. Use some common sense.
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Feb 25, 2009 19:31
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Normally you wouldn't grout the outer edge of the tile. The new carpet, when installed, will be tucked under and tacked/glued to butt up against the perimeter of the tile. Just make sure you get your grout all the way to the edge in the perpendicular lines.
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Jul 18, 2009 01:51
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Dragyn posted:Funny how all the home heating questions show up in October. What do you mean by vented? Did water come out? If so, just keep doing that, while the system is running, and see if you're getting hot water. If no water is coming out when you're bleeding the unit, then you've got a flow problem somewhere.
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Oct 16, 2009 23:39
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ZeeBoi posted:What do I need to get to hang a picture that has this on the back of it: I hate those. Feel inside the groove, there should be a small lip. I either use a drywall screw or a large headed nail. Just make sure whatever you use can slide in the groove. Find where you want your picture to hang. Make a light mark at the top. Measure the back of the picture from the top to the center of the groove. Transfer that measurement from the mark you made down. That will give you the line for your screws/nails. Measure the length of the groove and transfer that to your wall where you just made the mark. Put in a nail and hook the picture on it. Slide it all the way to the end and let it hang crooked. Put in your second nail, hook the picture on it and slide it around to center. You could also just use one nail, but you'll be forever leveling the picture as it slides back and forth. code:code:code:
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Oct 26, 2009 23:33
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kid sinister posted:FYI: I wouldn't do it monkeybounce's method. If you don't put in the two nails exactly level, the picture will always be crooked, and the correct hole is now so close to the existing hole that you can't hang the picture without first patching the old hole first, then there's the outside chance that putting the nail in the second time will just make the patch crumble. Good point, I did forget to mention leveling the nails. I guess I kind of figured it would be a given. I've never had a problem doing it this way, I just put the first nail in, put a small picture level on it, put the second nail under the level and find my line. The problem is, there's no good way at hanging that kind of frame/plaque. Alternatively, I guess you could get some picture hangers from Home Depot and add them to the back, but I don't think that material will take nails well. Kid Sinister: How would you go about doing this? VVVV Leveling the two nails. I just kind of assumed he would think "oh, I have to make sure the second nail lines up with the first" monkeybounce fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Oct 27, 2009 |
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Oct 27, 2009 16:12
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Dandy Cat posted:How hard is it for someone with NO plumbing experience to remove and replace the toilet in a condo? Not at all. Just make sure to turn off the water, flush to train the tank. Flush again to be sure. Disconnect the water, unbolt it from the floor and lift it up. Stick a rag in the sewer pipe to prevent gases from coming up. And peel the wax ring up from the floor/bottom of the toilet. Get a new wax ring, put it down, seat the toilet on it. Bolt it to the floor, connect the water supply, turn on the water. Also, make sure the toilet is straight. I've seen quite a few go back in crooked.  If you're tiling the floor, you may have to get longer bolts if you're increasing the height of the floor--ie ceramic tile. If it's just peel and stick, you'll be fine. Keep some towels around because there will still be some water coming out of the thing.
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Nov 19, 2009 22:20
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Dragyn posted:No, the plaster has to adhere to the rough texture of the horsehair plaster... I wasn't even aware people painted horsehair.. (and for the record, yes, some older iterations of the recipe for horsehair plaster include asbestos, so sanding might be a tad dangerous). You'll need to get a binding agent like PlasterWeld to mix in with your plaster or to paint the wall with beforehand. Make sure the paint that is there is firmly attached and scrape away anything that looks even slightly suspect. Also, clean, dust, etc the walls. You are basically asking plaster to stick to something it doesn't want to. You want to have everything is perfect as possible. Then just use as thin of a skim coat as you can get away with and you'll be good. I'm assuming you want to smooth out gouges and dents? As for the textured walls, the best I can recommend is a wide thin blade scraper and some muscle.
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Feb 25, 2010 23:02
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