Delivery McGee posted:

More details? Is it in a frame, on some kind of board, anything? If it's got a wooden back to it, hardware stores sell those little sawtooth-looking things that they have on the back of picture frames, and they nail on. If it's a metal frame with a lip on the back, just put some nails in the wall and hang it on them. If it doesn't have a frame, put it in one.

Delivery McGee posted:

Here's a random internet picture:
<snip>
They usually come in a big ol' box of miscellaneous home fasteners for $5, along with hooks to put on the wall.

Delivery McGee posted:

How big/heavy is it?

Amphigory posted:

So - what can I use to fill it, that would give a shiny white finish, and blend reasonably well with the surrounding plastic. And how would I do it? Any help would be fantastic.

Amphigory posted:

^^^ I've not really got anything I can use - so I'd need to buy it specifically. I have a day off on Friday, so if I can keep her away from the fridge until then, I can try and sort it over the whole day

The piece that came out is totally gone - I can't find it anywhere

Can the fimo be sanded down to a shiny finish? And does it have to be a halogen lamp?

Is plastic filler something that's easy to pick up from DIY shops?

Cheers mate

jovial_cynic posted:

This isn't a question as much as it is a suggestion for folks who are mildly grossed out by the idea of sitting on an old toilet seat that somebody else's rear end has been on.

It turns out that a standard toilet seat can be purchased for just $5 at Home Depot. FIVE BUCKS. And all it takes to install it is a screwdriver. I've spent the last five years sitting on the toilet seat that the previous owner of my house sat on for 18 years. If I had known sooner, I would have swapped it out as soon as I moved in.

Sanguinaire posted:

I'm looking for a low profile air compressor. My basic goal is to have a <1gal compressor that I can drag out on my back porch and use on dusty computer parts instead of compressed air cans. All I've been able to find is for portable air stations for car tires, and finish nailer compressors which are just a bit to big for my apartment. Any advice?

Citizen Scheibe posted:

Alright, so I'm trying to hook an old truck horn up to a battery and switch to create an obnoxious noise box that I can cause general mischief with. I know very little about electronics or the horn aside from the fact that it should function under a 12v power source. I'd imagine it's dc power and I know that it's a single wire horn so the body of the horn is the ground and the wire itself is the positive connection.

I figured that two 6v lantern batteries connected in a series would function but I guess they lack the amperage. Anyone know of a relatively cheap battery that would power this horn? I'm looking to spend maybe $20-$30, maybe a little more if it's unavoidable.

Briantist posted:

We just put up some new drywall in a basement and I put the first coat of primer on tonight. It's Killz 2 (the latex one). I'm just wondering whether or not I should put on a second coat of primer.

The drywall is the fancy moisture/mold resistant kind, but I'm not sure if that makes any difference either way. The walls will be painted a light color if that makes a difference.

Thanks!

FYAD KNIGHT posted:

Fire Storm posted:

Electrical question: According to code, if underground rated power cable is not readily available, can standard cable be run in a buried conduit?

Looking to get 100a of 240v out to my garage, 80ft behind my house.

I am also considering just getting the power utility to just give me another drop at the garage, since it's right underneath the local transformer.

On that note, is there an easy way to tell if it's a standard single-phase transformer or a 3-phase?

Standard cable should be the same as underground cable in terms of composition, diameter and insulation. It is the installation conditions that determine its rating (i.e. cable run underground can handle a different ammount of current than the same cable run through a house, primarily this is due to the temperature difference).

Make sure that any cable that you bury underground is burried at the right depth and using the right conduit for mechanical protection.

If you get another drop to your garage, be aware that you will likely face another meter as well as account keeping costs for that meter (some companies require an account per meter and may make you pay for the meter itself as well as for the installation of that meter).

Easiest way to tell if it is single or 3-phase tranny is to count how many of the supply cables are running into it. If there are 3 supply cable running into the tranny it is likely 3-phase, if there are only 2 then it is likely single phase.

Electricity are more likely to use 3-phase transformers as this makes it easier (and cheaper in the long run) to split the loads evenly through street/neighbourhood.

cakefool posted:

Give me all the details, I'll look it up in the 16th edition (you are in the UK right?)

The 16th edition posted:

522-06-03
Except where buried in a conduit or duct which provides equivalent protection against mechanical damage, a cable buried in the ground shall incorporate an earthed armour or metal sheath or both, suitable for use as a protective conductor, or be of insulated concentric construction. Buried cables shall be marked by cable covers or a suitable marking tape. Buried conduits and ducts shall be suitable identified. Buried cables, conduits and ducts shall be at a sufficient depth to avoid being damaged by any reasonably foreseeable disturbance of the ground.

Rogetz posted:

Are there any inexpensive tools that I could use for cutting through a truck tire with 2 ply steel reinforced treads? I'm trying to make shoes and I'll be damned if I can find any tires with all nylon treads lying around. I've been working on this thing with a utility knife and wire cutters and I don't think my hands can take it any more.

FYAD KNIGHT posted:

Hi there, I have a question for those with brick laying experience.

I'm considering bricking in a brick-pillared carport myself over having a bricklayer do it for me. The slab is already laid, all that needs to be done is laying some walls and fitting windows an a door. Its not a particularly big job, pretty much laying in one wall.

Is there any trick to laying bricks? I haven't done it before, though I will be attempting to make a brick wood-fired oven/bbq before hand to get my technique right.

To those with bricking experience, are there any tricks I can employ? Anything I should be wary of? Any brick specific tools I should use (I will have a trowel, wheelbarrow for the mortar, and a level) which will make the job alot easier?

Or should I get a bricklayer in and save myself a world of hassle?

Shes Got Sauce posted:

My question: how difficult is it to replace a bathroom vanity yourself?

Tai-Pan posted:

I am looking for two things I lost on the internet

1) Adhesive that works only when electrically charged. I saw a video of it a few years ago, but now I can find nothing. I am not sure it was ever sold, it might have died in the lab, but it would really help with a project.


2) Synthetic muscle. I saw a kit for this a year or so back, apply a charge and it contracts, but now I can find nothing. My google-fu is weak and searching yields a bunch of poo poo.

Corla Plankun posted:

My radiator just sprang a leak. My mechanic reccomends I replace it entirely, Is there ANY other viable solution? I don't really want to drop 500 bucks on a new radiator this close to christmas... but if I have no choice, I have no choice. Or do I?

mcsuede posted:

The plastic look on modern euro style cabinets is--plastic. They aren't made of wood to begin with.

Dongsmith posted:

Sounds like quality manufacturing. Where were you looking at these cabinets?

Micomicona posted:

Awesome! that looks like it alright. Now lets just hope that my landlord can get it together enough to buy four and attach them without killing us all.

I said come in! posted:

Hopefully there is an answer to my question and problem. Here it goes;

I have a quarter inch thick, 1 foot by 1 foot piece of plastic that I need to cut a square hole out of (kind of like a frame). Is it possible to do this on my own? What sort of tools would I need? Would prefer a non-electric tool to buy and because I live in an apartment so I don't want to make to much noise.

Is there any information I am missing that I need to give you guys? I'm not sure on what type of plastic it is or if that even matters but I can try to find out.

Any help would be very much appreciated, I need to get this done for a class project here soon and the other routes i've gone to (my instructor who hasnt been able to help) for help have led me to dead ends.

OldMidgetWillow posted:

I'm not entirely sure where I should even ask this question, but I'll give it a go.

What has the reflective properties of a CD, can be used to coat a dress, and can be bought in bulk? A friend is making a costume meant to go with another costume which is basically scale mail composed of quartered CDs.

Solomon Grundy posted:

You don't have air conditioning in the UK?

From Earth posted:

It's a bad picture, but this show the gray material I'm talking about, as well as the drilling disaster I'm trying to avoid.



(Disclaimer: My landlord is responsible for this mess, I had nothing to do with it)

It now occurs to me that it's probably just a type of concrete. I really don't know why I didn't think of that any sooner, but the question about drilling tools and technique still stands.

Andy! posted:

.

Fire Storm posted:

Snakes can be fairly cheap. I'm kinda lucky. The drain from my tub to the main sewer pipe is plastic and goes into a cast iron pipe, so it just slides right off. I take the pipe outside and flush it with the hose. I do the same with the drain for my bathroom sink.

If it's totally clogged, get one of those air blast plungers. I thought they would be a gimmic, but my god they work wonders. You just have to figure out a way to completely cover the overflow for the tub (plunger held over it might work)

BLUNDERCATS! noooo posted:

DIY Arts and Crafters, I have a question. My room mate and I are both looking for a hobby, she wants to make her own cell phone charms and I want to make small sculptures about 6 in. tall.

What's the best kind of clay to use for both of these things? We wanted to try different kinds of clay out and see which worked best for us. I've had some people tell me Sculpey is great for both of these types of crafting, but how well would they stand up to constant knocking around as a cell phone charm?

Any other threads discussing clay modelling/sculpting, I'd love to be pointed in that direction.

ZeeBoi posted:

Has anybody used shrinkwrap or 3M's product to insulate their windows? My apartment's windows are all single glaze and the freezing-cold glass is cooling the air next to it creating this feeling of a cold draft.

I've heard a lot about simply using household shrinkwrap to cover up windows and that will help.

Opinions?

alucinor posted:

I'm in a 60 year old rental house, and we have steam boiler heat. I just realized yesterday that in the basement, the steam pipes are only haphazardly insulated - there are 1"-2" gaps every few feet, and the bends are not covered at all. Basically a fast, half-rear end job done by a slipshod landlord.

How much should I worry about this? Is it basically useless because it's not done well? We're paying out the waz for heat this winter, if full insulation would help, I'll do it in a heartbeat.

gross posted:

I'm getting ready to paint some very old plaster walls - about 100 years old if they are actually original. They had no paint on them in the first place, just many layers of paper, so removing everything has left me with clean plaster that's in relatively good condition.

What type of primer is best for walls like this? I've seen conflicting advice on whether to go with oil-based, latex-based, or even other sealing products before applying primer.

Fire Storm posted:

Well, if you believe the hype, there are ones with 10 year batteries. OR, if you want to do a little electrical work, you can always go with hard wired smoke detectors.

Effexxor posted:

What if water is getting behind it? Because by how crappy that caulk looks know, I really wouldn't doubt that water's been getting back there. (How the people who had this house before and didn't even do basic loving maintenance on it is beyond me. You're living there. I don't care if you're renting it or not, take care of the damned place.)

Oh, and another question. Somehow the dumbass tenants from before managed to break 5 water pipes in one night in the basement and I'm guessing that it screwed up the pipes above for a while, because there's some been some definite leakage in the kitchen's ceiling. The paint's all flaky and there's even a point where the plaster came of and you can see cement behind it. So of course I'd love to get onto a step ladder and scrape the paint off, except for one tiny fact. As old as my house is, there's a very good chance that it's lead paint. Any tips on ways I can take care of this, not break my bank account, and not die?

IzzyFnStradlin posted:

Thanks for the advice. But is there another kind of glue that wouldn't require me to buy a UV lamp? That sounds expensive.

kid sinister posted:

I'd use a reciprocating saw for a cut like that. Then again, I have a steady hand...

Regnevelc posted:

I believe the home I just bought has the original weather stripping on the windows and doors. To help insulate I would be better served replacing the weather-stripping than just adding an adhesive foam around the frame of my windows and doors, correct?

Ahz posted:

The dimmer is really easy, just make sure the switch is off, or if you're really worried just cut the breaker for that circuit while you work. All you need is a screwdriver and pliers (needlenose preferred).

therattle posted:

Hi

We just had a shower retiled as the previous tiles were laid straight onto plywood walling (this is in the UK). The new tiles have been laid onto aquaboard waterproof board and stuck down with waterproof adhesive, with which the boards were covered. The tiles were then grouted. I've noticed some small holes in the grouting, as the grout was applied quite saparingly. I'm worried that this will continue to leak, albeit in small quantities. My instinct is to apply grouting myself (which I've done before). Any other sugestions/thoughts?

Warp Spectre posted:

Had an accident with a cabinet door in the kitchen that left a pretty nasty crack running about 3/4 from bottom to top on both sides of the center panel and another on the back side of the frame that's sort of visible in the top photo.


Click here for the full 512x768 image.


Click here for the full 512x768 image.

If the images don't make it clear the construction is particle board with veneer which is where the problem is as I have no idea to repair that sort of material, especially in a way that would be non-obvious to the landlord.
I'm mainly after just fixing that center panel is there a way to does this on my own or would bowing to professional skill be the better option?

jackpot posted:

neogeo0823 posted:

I did. Should I post my "I'm gonna play with fire" DIY project here, where it makes more sense as far as rules go, or should I post it in, say, GBS, where it will appeal to more of the userbase?

JD Brickmeister posted:

Is there any reason I shouldn't caulk the expansion/crack lines cut into the floor of my garage? Obviously wouldn't use "caulk" but something designed for concrete.