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Please bear in mind that Verdigris (copper patina) is toxic, and can be absorbed through the skin if handled enough. If you manage to fake the patina you're after, consider sealing the surface with a sturdy clear varnish.
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Jun 29, 2009 16:58
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Lino isn't that hard to put down. My first encounter with it was helping clean up an elderly relatives house 'We've got to leave in 20 minutes, can you do the bathroom floor?' gets handed stanley knife Cut it big, trim bits off, silicone sealant to seal the edges/cover any mistakes.
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Jul 9, 2009 18:54
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Fire Storm posted:Ah, sorry, I misunderstood. I thought you wanted magnets. Pre-cut metal... don't know about that, but you could always get a piece of sheet metal and cut it with sheers or something, or find someone that could cut some steel rod or something steel. IF you really want pre-bought parts, you can go to Lowes/Home Depot, go to the screw isle and check the small component bins/cabinets. I think he's(or she) after a disk of metal the size of the magnet, which would be a nightmare to cut by hand. See if you can find a local metalworking place, see if they have any kind of a punch (hydraulic etc) and ask for coin scrap of the right size - this will be the bits of metal punched out when they need to make a small neat hole.
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Jul 12, 2009 21:58
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TheKub posted:Today I was enjoying both a book and burning off the top layer of my meat coat, when suddenly my book fell to pieces. I was wondering if anyone had luck rebinding their books with silicon adhesives like goop? Will it work for this application or do I need to go get plastic glue? why did you leap straight to silicon & plastic? Books are made of paper & paper variants, and would benefit more from cellulose based glues. Try the book binding thread for a proper repair method: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3140637
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Jul 17, 2009 13:54
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Okay, what glue is it, how has the book fallen apart?
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Jul 17, 2009 18:58
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ease posted:Going to make a pneumatic spear gun that shoots a 4' steel bolt. They are commercially available, and I don't think they have much PSI compared to what you could actually make. Looking at spud gun designs, people use regular mechanical ball valves for the pneumatic type. I guess that's what I'll try first since it seems the easiest and most fail safe. Are you trying to propel the bolt directly with Air? Would it be possible to fire a single acting pneumatic cylinder, the shaft of which propels the bolt instead?
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Jul 17, 2009 21:21
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See if you can measure the current draw. If there's a few amps, everything's fine.
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Jul 20, 2009 21:30
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Belt posted:white wigglies I had something similar in a really hard water area. How old is your filter, as they become less effective over time. Also, try running it through 2 filters, i.e. out of 1 jug into the second. If that doesn't sort it, try filtering your water through a coffee filter. Hobnob posted:A couple of the wiggly-S springs inside my sofa have snapped (serpentine springs or whatever they're called - they zig-zag from side to side and hold the seat cushions up). They don't seem to be sold in places like Home Depot and I haven't found anywhere else I can buy them except mail order in 50 foot rolls. Rob springs from a donor, welding springy steel doesn't work well.
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Jul 27, 2009 20:07
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spe posted:If theres wires right next to the bath/shower that are running up and down the wall can I sue my landlord? (UK) How have you been injured/harmed that justifies suing someone? This isn't the USA, if something's wrong, ask, then tell him/her to put it right. Then threaten to report them, then report them. Unless you get shocked due to lovely non-standard wiring, you have no good reason to sue.
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Jul 29, 2009 17:35
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Richard Noggin posted:When our washing machine comes off the spin cycle, you'd think the whole house was coming down. It doesn't vibrate during the spin cycle, only as it starts to slow down. Ideas? Top or front loader? If it's front, pop the top off & check the suspension springs are intact & located properly. Then level the machine properly, 'cause chances are you never did it right  (Virtually no-one levels their machine properly, I didn't & I was a white goods engineer & know what issues it can cause, but sometimes it's impossible)
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Aug 11, 2009 22:07
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Richard Noggin posted:It's a top loader. Your only option is to leave the 18th century. (Can't remember ever taking one apart, can't help sorry)
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Aug 12, 2009 14:24
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Bag of marbles.
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Aug 12, 2009 19:27
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I need advice on UK window regulations - I'm having new windows fitted to a 15 yr old house (trust me, it needs them) and 1 fitter just asked me what I want, the other said I had to have an 'emergency exit' window in 'each habitable bedroom' If this is true I'm stung for a few hundred more, can't have exactly what I want <  > and I have to fit an 'emergency exit' window to a childs bedroom with a sheer drop under it.What regs apply? What's the legal status of these regs i.e. do I have to follow them or are they just guidelines? Where would I stand if the first dude fitted what I wanted and it wasn't to regs?
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Sep 9, 2009 21:28
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Brown Moses posted:I've moved my washing machine to the middle of the room, made sure it was perfectly level, and it's still jumping up and down. I took the back off to look at the drum as it spins and it's bouncing around quite a bit. I can only see two shock absorbers at the base of the washing machine attached to the drum and they seem fine. Any ideas of what it could be? Someone suggested the floorboards in my kitchen might be a bit damaged from water by the previous owners, could that cause this movement? run the machine empty. If it jumps when it spins something's really hosed up with it, otherwise it's just not balancing the load correctly - how full do you load it?
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Sep 27, 2009 13:22
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Richard Noggin posted:The (acrylic?) base of my shower has developed a 4" crack in the floor, most likely due to my crappy installation job. It would be a lot of work and expense to replace it, so I'm looking for repair options. If the crack is due to shoddy installation, a repair will most likely crack. Also, a repair will always look nasty. If you want to try a repair go for an epoxy resin, ask in a hardware store. Then, fix it properly 
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Oct 7, 2009 19:06
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Dragyn posted:By venting, I mean bleeding, and no, no water. Today it seems the base of the radiator warms up a bit, but not the top. Seems you had a radiator full of air & bled some out, try again? My inlaws had a new central heating system fitted last year & had the same problem, eventually tracked to the main pipe that went upstairs - there was a ball/restrictor-valve in a slightly thicker piece of pipe designed to work somehow with the old system but it just restricted flow upstairs with the new system. Replaced this with straight pipe& fixed the issue, might be relevant?
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Oct 17, 2009 14:46
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etard knievel posted:I'm making a costume that will involve bleaching, dying and possibly painting spandex. The bleach/dye part of the process I'm not too worried about but I had some concerns about the paint: if I use regular fabric paint and put it on a modelform while I'm painting, is that going to be enough to avoid cracking/warping, or is that still going to be a problem? If I want to make sure it's machine washable, what's the best kind of paint to use, and/or should I use any special kind of sealant? Also, is there a 'fabric safe' medium I can mix regular acrylic paint with to turn it into fabric paint? This will never look like you want it to, try instead finding a fabric dye specifically for spandex. A haberdashers or fabric shop may be able to help you out here.
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Oct 26, 2009 20:03
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A LOVELY LAD posted:Our radiators are leaking by the (*cylinder heads), where the bleed valve is. Tried tightening them but to no avail, whats the best way of stopping them from leaking? *Im unsure of the name of that radiator part but its in the top right and left corners. You need to remove the bleed valve completely. Clean the threads out & ensure the blanking plug threads are in good condition, then as mentioned above, wrap in ptfe (watergrade) tape & re-insert. Somehow you'll have to remove the pressure from the system or you'll have a mini-gyser going on while you do this.
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Nov 27, 2009 19:35
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Unfortunately good thermal cameras are expensive. Unless you plan on making a business out of it, find someone who does thermal surveys, not as much fun but much cheaper. Cheap thermal cameras are generally 'nightvision' type, not true 'heat vision'
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Dec 7, 2009 22:04
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Not to go all HSE on you but there isn't a lot you could do that's impressive but couldn't in some way hurt her if she opened it 'wrong'. I'd be tempted to rig a partypopper under like 20 layers of tissuepape to restrict the shot, however I'd want to make like 40 trials before hand & make sure she didn't put her head over it when it opened
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Dec 13, 2009 19:51
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Not Memorable posted:If it's a ring or something small you could put it at the bottom of one of those joke shop cans of mixed nuts or whatever with a spring-loaded snake. Otherwise, yeah, you're going to kill her. Do not rig gifts to explode on people by yourself. Actually Spring-loaded isn't a bad idea, have the lid held closed with a ribbon & a spring-loaded mess of balls of tissue-paper & glitter etc underneath
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Dec 16, 2009 22:25
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A PC powersupply will get you 12 & 5 v, scrounge motors from cd & floppy drives & vcr's etc, think about solonoids for resetting individual targets, you'll need to detect when they're down (proxy switches or just microswitches) then trigger a pulse to raise them again. You could do the whole thing in electronics (ask our electronics megathread) or get clever & run the lot off an arduino microcontroller (see makezine for an aurduino-wankfest)
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Jan 3, 2010 00:23
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Deadpan Science posted:I have sliding windows in my apartment, and when it's windy they rattle perpendicular to the tracks they are on. What's a permanent way to shim them while retaining their ability to slide open and closed? Off the top of my head I remember a similar window in my student halls. I epoxied a thin plastic wedge at one end of the track, so when I closed the window it compressed the little wedge a smidge. That stopped the rattling when closed & I didn't care when it was open.
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Feb 7, 2010 20:55
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Depends on the work you're doing - I've seen jewellery workshops with nipple-high desks, drawing desks slightly lower but tilted, etc etc. Make sure you have a height adjustable chair? 
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Feb 23, 2010 20:34
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Syano posted:Heres a thought: Since the cross section of the shelves is going to be so small anyways, would MDF be any sort of option or will that just look like crap? This will collapse. If at any point you find yourself considering using MDF, ask yourself if you would willingly substitute damp digestive biscuits. If so, continue. If not, get some proper wood.
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Mar 16, 2010 17:34
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A LOVELY LAD posted:There is a glow in the dark spray paint smiley face on my wall, its been there for a good few months but we are about to move back and I would like my deposit back (I didn't spray if on btw) Any way of getting rid of it? Im not sure if I could paint it without it making part of the wall a different shade. What is the wall covering under the spraypaint?
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Mar 17, 2010 19:14
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Melicious posted:The large, deep closet is occupied by cat boxes. The door to the closet stays closed, and cats get in via a flap. To make up for the lost closet space, there is a large wardrobe occupying the nook adjacent to the closet. The obvious one that jumps out at me is the closet - litter trays are on the floor, all the space above it is wasted yes? Why not put a nice strong shelf above the litter trays to regain that space?
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Apr 4, 2010 12:30
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Melicious posted:Ah yeah, I should have mentioned- all the floor space in the closet is taken up by litterboxes, but there are some shelves in there that we use for storage. We don't have as much vertical space in there, though- it's a slanted ceiling in that part of the room. Is the closet door the lower one? Would you consider either knocking it out or extending it? What about building in a desk to fit the top left space rather than wedging 2 together? Do you have a budget for this? How handy are you? What do you use the desks for? Based on this I'll sketchup something later today, making the most of silly little spaces has unfortunately become my Forte'.
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Apr 5, 2010 10:57
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Melicious posted:The desk has my PC and printer on one leg, and a music keyboard on the other. I use them together often, so I need to have the two adjacent to eachother... or at least reachable from the same chair. Ok, last questions, 1/ Are you attached to the wardrobe/does it hold value for you/could you use it elsewhere in the house? 2/ Are you attached to the desks/do they hold value for you/could you use them elsewhere in the house? 3/ How much use does the piano get? Does it need to be near the window or desk? At the moment I'm leaning towards putting the piano in the nook, vertical storage/wardrobe in the top left with a built-in desk coming down the left slope wall to the lower wall, building around the hump, as so: Okay, excuse the MS paint but I don't have any CAD on this laptop.  This leaves you either to put the wardrobe on the top wall or ditch it & build in a slightly thinner cupboard on the short left wall. You'll need to build a desk but the easy way out is to get 2 desktops from Ikea, cut the ends sloping where needed. You can go all out & put shelves & cubbies above/below the desks as per your needs.
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Apr 5, 2010 19:22
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Richard Noggin posted:You'll need to get a special glass-drilling bit. I've picked them up at Home Depot and my local hardware store before. A normal ceramic tile-cutting bit will work.
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Apr 6, 2010 19:10
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If you can't find a dimensional match going to an over-mounted sink & trimming the hole out is your best bet.
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Apr 14, 2010 20:40
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Richard Noggin posted:Give it a whirl, but I've always been advised to let the unit sit for an hour or so after moving it to let the refrigerant settle. Is this really true? The reason for this is moving it can move the oil from the compressor into the coils, if it gets too far & the compressor starts running you can basically push the oil into the coils & the compressor can starve. If you don't tip it up I've found 6 hrs is good enough, if you do lay it flat generally 48hrs is enough. I worked in a white goods lab for 4 years, we destryoyed enough to know this 
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May 21, 2010 21:40
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Poknok posted:It's an Electrolux - I indeed called the repairman the other day and he said that the oil from the compressor got into the coolant pipes; the motor is running incredibly hot and that this is a shop work and would have been unreasonably expensive. The fridge would have had to be carried five flights of stairs (the elevator doesn't work, go figure), AND I wouldn't get a warranty on the repair job/spare parts installed. On the top of all this, a glass pane in the fridge is cracked and fixed up with sticky tape, and one of the drawers in the icebox is damaged beyond repair. I'm just looking for a reason to chuck the drat thing out. Try another repair man. A good one will drain off any remaining gas, remove the compressor, drain & dry the pipes, fit a new dryer & compressor & regass in about an hour, on-site, and guarantee their work. Your local glass supplier will make toughened glass to your dimensions for $10 or less. This all together may be more expensive than a new one, and a new one will cost you a mountain 'o' cash less to run. In that case, craigslist the old one, recycle the bad one, buy a new one.
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May 22, 2010 09:53
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Mr. Wiggles posted:I'm pulling in quotes from local outfits in the 50k range installed, which is why I was thinking more of just getting the components. Surge won't be a big deal with the right size battery bank, I don't think. But then there's a whole range out there. If we can cut the price down to 30K or less it's much more worth it to DIY it. 30k to do the work of a 1k generator? Is it really worth it?
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Jun 4, 2010 20:39
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Well it's environmentally friendly and is more reliable than a generator. Generator powered by methane from your septic tank, beyond thunderdome style.  Well if you can afford 30k to power a workshop, good for you, please post the project thread. There seem to be many cheaper methods however, unless you're way off grid. What about a CHP system for the house? Windmills? handy nearby waterfall for hydroelectric power?
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Jun 5, 2010 10:48
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It kinda looks like that #3 was used to hang something off - is there a bare end anywhere, it doesn't look like it from those pics?
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Jun 13, 2010 13:55
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What the hell? they look like pneumatic lines. Where are they all situated around the house?
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Jun 14, 2010 22:11
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Threedymodeler posted:I thought they might be pneumatic as well, but what the heck would you be running pneumatics for to the outside? Could they be some kind of micro-vents for something? If you can get into the roofspace you might be able to see where they go, might be a junction box of some kind? They wouldn't be vents, you need to push really air through those size pipes.
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Jun 15, 2010 19:41
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ImperialGuard posted:Got a question for a smaller scale project. Could superglue, once it's dry, make anything weird happen with a PCB? No.
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Jun 30, 2010 20:19
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Poknok posted:I need to clean smudges of oil-based paint off the doorknob. The paint has since dried completely. Is there a good way of doing this, or should I break out my stash of sandpaper and a razor blade? You could try turps, just be prepared to re-varnish the door knob if the paint is long-dried on. Use a rag to dab the turps on.
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Jul 3, 2010 22:12
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