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tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


and if it's a gas dryer all that carbon monoxide

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tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


That rubber bit shoudl be part of the hose.. so you slide it over the white piece of PVC.. and then use a hose clamp or 2 to keep it tight..

If he white hose separated from the black hose.. might be time to replace that rubber bit.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Toebone posted:

The dishwasher line didn't come loose, it was the left-hand white PVC elbow. If you look closely you can see the pipe that comes down from the sink doesn't have any sort of gasket on the end, it just sit inside the threaded elbow.

I'll see about either adding a gasket so the connection is sealed or replacing the whole elbow, and adding something to support the lateral pipe.

Oh yeah I see it now was in mobile and didn't see the gap.

It should have a ring on it if you undo the slipnut on the bottom piece. generally when you tighten those two things together it reducea the amount of movement you have at the connection.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Toebone posted:

Sink update: couldn't find a ring/gasket so I supported the pipe with a hanging strap and sealed around the gap with putty. Seems to be holding up so far.

you are planning on doing it right at some point though correct?

you can probably get a bag of the rings at home depot for less than tenbux.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I wanna put up some studs on my concrete walls on basement and then drywall (yes I know vapor barrier and insulate) issue is the 9x9 asbestos tile on the floor. I'd rather not use the .22 caliber concrete nails through the tiles or remove them $$$. Is there an adhesive that would work for this kind of application or is it going to be tough poo poo spend the money to get the tiles out

Current plan for flooring is to go over it with traffic master grip strip flooring providing a nice seal above the old tile.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


HycoCam posted:

If you don't want to remove the tile, shooting through the tile will be fine. You don't want to be breathing in dust filled air when the dust is asbestos. Putting a few dozen nails though the middle of a board covering the tile isn't going to generate any dust that is going to give you cancer.

This was pretty much a thought I had as well.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


H110Hawk posted:

This thread also suggested a rotary hammer, three times.

First time dealing with I. M. Gei I see

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I. M. Gei posted:

Yeah I realized that when a friend mentioned scrolling their rap sheet.

How the gently caress is an average person supposed to hear the words “rotary hammer”, “hammer drill”, and “rotary hammer drill”, and magically conclude that they’re 2 or 3 totally different things? Most people would hear those phrases and think they’re 3 names for the same one thing, because apart from one being slightly better for drilling and another being slightly better for hammering, they look pretty much the same unless you know tools good.

And y’all can go ahead and gently caress right off with that rap sheet poo poo too. I’m loving sick and tired of that poo poo.
[/quote]

sorry dude.. didn't mean to set you off. I've just seen this pattern of "hey guys I need help with x" a bunch of question are kind of 1/2 answered and advice kind of ignored and you do waht you want. Apologies, I hope your project turns out well.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


H110Hawk posted:

We're going to buy one of those crappy above ground "pools" because the summer is just about upon us and covid-19 has caused us to lose our minds. I'll wait for you to stop laughing.

Please stop laughing.

Fine. It's 12ft x 30" deep, or 250cu ft (squared off) or ~1800 gallons/2.4 ccf (our billing unit) of water. We want it to survive one season as right now both of our pools (grandma's, the gym's) aren't available for us to use. It's going to be 100F outside and my 4 year old has already lost his mind, hoping to use it as a way for all of us to just stay cool and splash around. Does it make sense to even bother with chemicals in this thing? If so, is there a flow chart for this I can follow? Hoping not to be constantly draining and filling it, but if that's what makes sense so be it.

It's something like this: https://www.target.com/p/bestway-10-feet-x-30-steel-pro-max-round-above-ground-swimming-pool-with-pump/-/A-76133310 , if there is a smarter / lower TCO thing to buy for a season like the $850 saltwater version, let me know. Target has free returns. :v:

Without chemicals you'll get nasty rear end water

There's a forum called trouble free pools that can help you out, even for the small ones you need chemicals... Actual bleach chlorine without anything else (no drip / scent, colors etc) is the best, chlorine tabs have a stabilizer in them which will make your chlorine ineffective over time.

Get a test kit and use it and add the right amount of bleach as needed so you don't end up with a green cespool in your yard.


Make sure your ground is level

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Sup Fix-it-Fast

I have a plumbing stack vent boot that's beat to poo poo, and I'd like to avoid pulling up shingles and redoing flashing as I figure I'm going to screw things up.

My first attempt at fixing was a perm-a-boot (https://permaboot.co/) but my vent pipe is longer than it's designed for so the top cap portion doesn't touch the bottom part.
I'm still getting some mild dripping when it rains. Like maybe 2-3 tablespoons worth during a hard rain.

Second thought is to remove the perma-boot I put on and use something like this
https://www.homedepot.com/p/IPS-5-75-in-x-5-75-in-PVC-Base-Vent-Pipe-Flashing-with-Adjustable-Rubber-Collar-in-Black-81720/206792286


Option 3 is to cut down the 3" pipe so that the perm-a boot can be installed properly

if I keep getting water intrusion any other thoughts aside from pull up the flashing / call a guy?

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


B-Nasty posted:

Just do this.

Put a healthy amount of roof cement on the old boot rubber (special attention near the pipe protrusion), and carefully slide this new collar down the pipe over top it and smush it into place. For bonus points, you can apply a thin amount of the cement around where the pipe and boot meet. Done.

Buy some extras and do all your pipe boots while you're up on the roof, since they tend to crack and harden in the sun. That one you linked is nice, because it can be adapted to any common size vent pipe (up to 3"). This was one of the first things I did in my new house, and it stopped the leaks.

The poo poo in a tube.. I think I'm almost out trying to get the permaboot to work but I'll grab another tube and the rubber boot tomorrow when I run to homelowepot tomorrow on my weekly run with a mask and gloves.

all my other vents are up top of a 2 story I will inspect them when I get up there but I think I need a second / longer ladder. to get up there.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


yeah that's the tube I'm using.. I may grab 1-2 kuz you can never have enough calk to play with.
mostly my roof is in good shape.. I feel like when this place was re-roofed 5-10 years ago the roofers just reused the vent boot kuz they didn't have one for a 3" in the truck...

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Elitist Bitch posted:

I live in an urban apartment. My windows are so poorly insulated/sealed I can smell weed, cigarettes, and every restaurant on the block. It's a rental so replacing the windows isn't an option (and we're moving out in four months anyway). The urgency is due to the fact that I have asthma and don't want to breathe in tear gas/pepper spray. Does anyone have any suggestions that don't involve plastic wrapping the whole window (the building has no AC and summer is coming) and is either removable or is something the landlord won't notice? They aren't doing "nonessential maintenance" due to the pandemic so I don't think I'd be able to get them to do anything about this.

You're best bet is going to be plastic wrapping and then removing once this whole teargas / pepper spray riots thing goes away. you're not really going to be able to seal the windows without you know.. sealing the windows.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Wow holy poo poo I've never done that and would use 2 close to 1/2 sheets to make it fit better not just drop in tiny slivers those fuckers will be prime for cracking.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Turn your humidifier off in the Summer is what I was told by my havac installer.

Then set it in the winter for comfort.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Recharging is probably not worth it if it's not working. We'd need to know the BTUs and age. How insulated is this shed?

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:

Kinda figured that.

8000 BTU. Shed is uninsulated - just plywood. I’d like to insulate it eventually, but we have other house priorities first. I wouldn’t want to cool it full time, just while I’m tinkering. Heck, if working from home continues, I may set it up as my office for the 1-2 days a week I don’t need to be on the shop floor at work.

a big question is what is the temp differential.. IE the air coming into the unit vs going out of the unit.. if the shed is 90°F, you're not going to get ice cold air blowing out of it you'll at best get like 70°F air coming at you

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I mean for 80 bux take care of it it might last another 5+ years.. switches and poo poo wear out.. I'd spend the 80 on it instead of 5-800 on a new one. If you're aching for a new one that's quiet etc.. go for a new one but you can probably hobble this one around for a bit.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


canyoneer posted:

I have a very open kitchen and my old slumlord special dishwasher could be heard running from about 2/3rds of the house. Replacing it with a super quiet dishwasher has been such a huge quality of life improvement for us.

In Mlmy apartment it could be heard through all 1400sq ft. At my new home I can barely hear my probably 5-7 year old Bosch 10 ft away. And mostly only when it's filling.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Deadite posted:

I don’t know about how to keep the ants out, but for poison I like Otho Home Defense Max. It is pet safe once it dries and it lasts a long time. Just spray it where they are coming in and once they walk through it they are dead.

I use this outside and generally it's good poo poo.
I will however say get the "refill" then.. get yourself a $6 pump spray bottle from harbor freight. Their $7 poo poo wand sucks ballzzzzzz.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Epitope posted:

Good deal, so stick with that and not thiamethoxam or cyhalothrin, as suggested on this page

Pretty sure that all cures the Corona.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Jaded Burnout posted:

All our toast is cooked at 240V.

but you only have 13a circuits in your homes.. I'll take plugging my saw into pretty much any outlet that exists over quick toast. :p

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Clean up all the Contacts for your fan motor etc would be my first thought. Look for wires that are grounding out on the box too.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Corla Plankun posted:

I'm a new homeowner and our place has a lot of various things running into the house (data lines, pipes, etc) that are not properly sealed. It looks like they were at some point, but the goop just dried out and fell away after awhile. Is there a general product that I can use to seal all of these gaps, or do I need some kind of purpose-built thing for the wires, and one for the pipes, and one for the AC, and one for the dryer vent, and window frames, and on and on?

Also, any recommendations for a current book about home maintenance in USDA Zone 8b would be really appreciated!

I've always kept this book handy for when I want to do things to my house to make sure I'm not doing it too stupidly.

https://amzn.to/3iERSTi

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


it'll be hard to diagnose when you have it apart if you have to pull everything off of it.

Does it fill / drain etc and just not spin (if not then at least it's not something stupid like a door switch or the control board. I'd maybe unplug motor run some leads to the connector put it back upright and check for voltage on a spin cycle.. if there's voltage the motor is probably dead.

tater_salad fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jul 10, 2020

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


H110Hawk posted:

For fucks sake the 1 year old smoke alarm in my office was chirping this morning. After a few minutes of "oh no I'm going to have to RMA it or the hardwire has failed or or or" I pull it down and they installed the wrong loving one. It has a 9V battery and I specified in the bid (and in the contract) a 10-year lithium. :argh:

I know there are several types, what is the "correct" one from Kiddie (hoping to re-use the bracket...please stop laughing)? Smoke, hardwired, 10year "lifetime" battery are the requirements. It's a detached office in back of a detached garage. It is not plumbed for natural gas.

I juuust had to get a Kidde 10 year sealed one get replaced after less than 1 year of use. Fucker went off mid-day and would not shut up. The only way to stop it was to break the tab and flip teh switch to kill it. They're sending me a new one.. and thank god it wasn't 3am kuz that would have sucked more.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


H110Hawk posted:

The ones in my house (4 of em) are going fine 4.5 years later. I didn't pay attention to which "type" of smoke alarm it is and I can never remember which is "correct." Luck of the draw on lot codes I imagine for those lithium batteries.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PC5SX98/

this wasn't the 18650 battery this was the detector itself goin crazy

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


canyoneer posted:

I had a similar issue with a carbon monoxide detector. Thing kept screeching at me and the noise was giving me a headache and making me dizzy so I had to take the batteries out.

Oh yeah those things go off all the time when I'm grilling inside too I took all mine down.

The one I was having issues with was just smoke and nothing was on fire or smoking.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Comedy in my dead gay forums... Well I'd never

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Burn all clothes you used to touch it. My friend got poison ivy once and he got a few flare-ups after touching stuff that touched it.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Apologies for starting a storm. What I meant was: Be careful after pulling it out make sure to vigerously wash your poo poo and your body.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


B-Nasty posted:

Plumbing/oil furnaces/HVAC: https://www.youtube.com/user/stevenlavimoniere (Steve Lav)
Electrical (some HVAC, misc): https://www.youtube.com/user/bensahlstrom (Ben Sahlstrom)
Concrete: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5y5SeEYvz_MqPmBU_zLTyA (Odell)
General Contracting: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjG94SagJZoyPggcBhUdFCA (Stud Pack)
HVAC: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2AsqyR6xLMkte3mQHf-umw (Quality HVACR)
Handyman Misc: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtXVIqkc3iBk0bV5gvcNWgw
Electrical: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVMLgV5EGZAhCIc2XMKiMkg (Peterson Electric)
Building Science/New Products: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFCTrfb1JUJjs3Im8OZDtBw (Matt Risinger)

I'm sure everybody already has: Essential Craftsman, Matthias Wandel, Project Farm, and HomeRenovision.

This would be good to go in the OP maybe.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Bioshuffle posted:

Cross posting from the home buying thread, but does this look like water damage?
https://imgur.com/a/OPnS0ci

The sellers finally cleared out their garage of the moving boxes, and this was what was awaiting below. I have no idea how the hell I'm going to clean this up, but it looks like.. paint and grease? How much work am I looking at here to clean all this up?

looks like a little water dripping in there from unknown source.

also it's a garage.. it's going to be dirty.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


My house has one of those ceiling pans (medallions) above the fan. My fiancee wants it gone I told her whatever is behind it we don't want to know about.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


melon cat posted:

Thanks for IDing that thing.

So TeChNiCaLly if I remove it I could get free water for life. Nice.

No you just have to call in your numbers. The POs cut mine at my house and the town doesn't want to pull down the ceiling to rewire it so I get mailed an estimated bill.. then call them then get a new bill. When I redo the ceiling I'll have them do it.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Bioshuffle posted:

I've been to home depot almost every single day since starting the pre-move in projects.

welcome to homeownership. I'd make lists of poo poo I needed to fix and go home depot and drop 1-200 a week for awhile. I had a P100 mask and gloves because especially at the start of covid the stores were insane lots of people etc.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I went to a home depot yesterday and it was the deadest I'd seen it in 4 months, there were only 40-60 cars in the lot instead of 150+

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


That looks like a sump hole not a drain, but I've never seen one with a vent in it either.

You could technically (not legally to code depending on restrictions)run your dehumidifier to it and then have it pumped out wherever once it gets a bit full.

Edit: maybe the left is the sump going to sewer and the right is drains from?? (Gutters?)

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


lets try this again.

One cannot attach a shelf without placing holes in the surface you'd like it to be on, you need a way to support both the front and back of the shelf.
If you were to use any kind of velcro or glue or sticky tape kind of stuff you'll end up pulling it off the wall because you can't just support it at the fulcrum (point where it meets the wall).

I guess if you really wanted you could try some good construction adhesive and see if that would hold (the issue would be keeping it up until it held). This will however cause more damage to remove than patching over a few drywall anchors / screws into a stud.

You maybe could comically get this to work if you did something like this but don't it's stupid.
You could try and use some of the big 3m hooks and make something like a floating shelf where there's no bracket under it. You'll need come wire cable or twine or cat hair woven into rope or whatever you have around shoudl work. Then probably a hook every 6-8" on your wall all even all the same height. then just attach a rope/twine/cathair/random audio cable to your hooks (make sure all the same length so they all carry the same weight and have a right triangle of rope to hold the shelf up (or attach the rope / cable / string to the front and back of each shelf to get the triangle) This is again more work than patching the wall.



This is a bad idea.. dont do it

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tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Look up 'basin wrench' you should have room for that most likely. Still won't have a ton of room to move but that's the tool for the job.

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