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Plain old liquid nails doesn't bond to metal very well, go poke around the adhesives aisles and find some next-level-up stuff, like liquid nails fusion, the loctite stuff, glue tha specifically says it'll bond to metal. Gorilla glue would be a good choice as well.
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Sep 1, 2020 05:19
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Curiosity posted:I think it's that - I live in a rental and this outlet hasn't worked in a while. Went to fix it and discovered what I was pretty sure was aluminum but needed a second opinion. I've asked for an inspection. Not just Aluminum, but very poorly installed aluminum!
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Sep 2, 2020 04:30
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Every outlet and switch needs to be replaced with a CO/ALR designated replacement, at a minimum. You could do it yourself for a couple hundred dollars, or he could get an electrician to do it for a couple hundred more. Seconding this. Although it's still not a great solution, small gauge Al wire is fundamentally flawed as a conductor (it was only ever produced in one alloy, that alloy deforms over time, losing good contact with the screws on the devices causing what you see in that picture) even if you don't have oxidation issues. There's only two ways to properly fix Al wiring: 1) a highly specialized process where the Al wire is cold-welded to Cu wiring 2) replace it all with copper. 2 is the only option we'd present when working with Al when I was an electrician. Note: this does not apply to service sized aluminum wire (8 gauge and up), especially the modern alloys, those are fine. kid sinister posted:That's... strange. That is in fact aluminum wiring. That was installed from the late 1960s to the mid 1970s when aluminum was cheaper than copper, before everyone realized it was a bad idea and went back to copper. However, that's a tamper resistant outlet. Those became standard in 2006, so that definitely isn't an original outlet. However, the ground wire is looped around the ground screw in the wrong direction, so it wasn't a pro who swapped it out. That backwards looping is what I was talking about when I said it's poorly installed aluminum wiring, it looks like the hot is wrapped backwards too, judging from where it enters the screw. Obviously it's impossible to tell if the neutral was done correctly. Aluminum is a fire hazard on the best of days, poorly installed aluminum is a recipe for disaster. BTW, I didn't know about alumicons, they must've entered the field around when I was leaving it. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Sep 2, 2020 |
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Sep 2, 2020 17:33
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$30 for a Skil at Home depot too, not exactly bank breaking if there's no Harbor Freight near you. I've had my Skil angle grinder for a decade, for the last two years I've been actively trying to kill it, using it to get-out concrete and using it extensively for heavy duty weld grinding. It will not die.
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Sep 4, 2020 16:46
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Lurk Ethic posted:A couple bathroom-related questions: How are you planning on doing that, you know you have to replace the entire mixing valve right? Like there's no way to just put 2 knobs on that style of mixing valve. 3rding the recommendation for the Panasonic, for high flow, quiet operation, and reliability, nothing Broan or Nutone make is as good.
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Sep 8, 2020 22:59
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Lurk Ethic posted:What's worse about them? I can't really get cold water, just hot to luke warm, and anything below that, the pressure drops off. Just have them put in a nicer regular mixing valve if they're coming out already, they have thermostatic ones that will maintain temperature automatically now. In fact, normally the mixing valve body cannot be removed without damaging the tiling that's there already, they do, however make replacement cartridges that go into the valve body that may solve your cold water issue. If you're damaging tile already, maybe you could go for a nifty design around the valve, like a diamond the size of a big tile or something done in a decorative small tile? You could do it yourself with an angle grinder and some patience if you want, or hire tile guys, they're usually pretty good and cheap as far as the trades go, your plumber can probably recommend one.
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Sep 9, 2020 04:58
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Pink blow-in isn't hazardous or Asbestos containing, I would wear a respirator or at least a dust mask if you had one, just because attic dust is nasty at the best of times, and I don't have great faith in glass fibers not being harmful to the lungs. Definitely recommend covering as much skin as possible, to minimize how itchy you'll be later. E: authoritative reference! https://www.doh.wa.gov/CommunityandEnvironment/AirQuality/IndoorAir/Fiberglass Elviscat fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Sep 10, 2020 |
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Sep 10, 2020 21:54
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are bathroom exhaust fans a fairly standard cutout/footprint size to be drop in replaceable or are they all different sizes? I need to replace mine soon. There's a wide range of sizes, is it going bad? A lot of manufacturers make replacement gut kits for their fans, if you can identify the model. If not, measure and find something similar or bigger. Preferably a Panasonic.
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Sep 11, 2020 19:21
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That first product, the big wedge anchor, is massive overkill. The blue screw anchors "Tapcons," colloquially, are a pain in the rear end to work with, they're really more meant for block than concrete, they tend to strip out or snap. I'd use these you just drill the appropriate hole and tap them in with a hammer, super easy to use, more than adequate for a light duty LV cable tray.
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Sep 11, 2020 20:11
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I just drill the hole 1/2" deeper than it needs to be, and that+the spiral flutes on the drill evacuates enough dust and gives the rest room to go. Compressed air would be the correct way though. You can drill them, cut/grind the head off, or smack the head off with a cold chisel. If you can get that center pin out, the zinc body is really easy to drill.
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Sep 11, 2020 20:54
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You could steam it and clamp it to a giant steel beam, short of that I think you're SOL.
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Sep 11, 2020 21:05
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Just use a long screw, it's going to be hidden by the shelf bracket anyway, right?
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Sep 12, 2020 01:19
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That brown box hasn't rusted, it's made of an old fiber reinforced plastic, it's quite brittle which is why it's split like that. The right answer would be to replace it with a new box. If you want to retain the old box, drill the piece of plastic you have highlighted and use a long #8 or #10 machine screw to secure your light, if you leave it with only that one screw in, you'll bust out your remaining mounting point in short order.
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Sep 13, 2020 22:13
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You should use plastic instead of metal if your wiring's not grounded, for the 4x4 box, not the ceiling fan.floWenoL posted:OK, so how hard would it be to replace these boxes? I tried flexing the old one and it seems attached to something, although I didn't see any nails or screws. From Googling around, it looks like these are usually attached to a joist or something? I'd be pretty uncomfortable going into the attic just for this... It's probably nailed to a joist on the flat side 180⁰ from where the wires come in. Step-by-step instructions, if you don't want to go in the attic: -buy this -check that the flange on the bottom is slightly larger than the hole in your drywall. -turn the breaker for those wires off, make sure they're dead (important!) Also untwist them so they can come out of the box. -remove your old box, there are two ways to do this: -use a Sawzall or jigsaw with a metal cutting blade, insert between the drywall and the old box, feel around for two nails and cut through them, careful you don't damage the wires, then pull the box out through the hole, that's what I'd do, and it's a little more delicate, but if you don't have the tools, or are uncomfortable the other way's easier. -grab a hammer and a long hard object, pipe, chisel, screwdriver, whatever, smash that box up into your attic, it'll probably break into pieces since those boxes are made from brittle poop, remove box/pieces, make sure whatever held them in place is not going to get in your way. -test fit new box in the hole, adjust hole as necessary. -pull a couple inches of the old wire into the new box -insert new box in hole -turn the three screws that operate the little wings on the box clockwise until the box is secure (try not to have one hard-up against the joist) -pull the wire the rest of the way in to the box. -install your light. Installation procedure if you decide to go in the attic. -buy this -secure power -go in attic, smash old box with hammer, nail new box in its place -you know the rest. E: SpartanIvy posted:You would probably need to go into the attic to replace it. They are typically secured by a bar going between rafters that is nailed or screwed in. Once that is remove you would need to secure a new box the same way. Not something that can really be done from the bottom easily, although I'm sure there's a way somehow. I doubt they used a box with a bracket for a closet light, I'd bet  it's a nailer, either way the retro box will work, the nailer will just have to be swapped with a bracketed box.
Elviscat fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Sep 14, 2020 |
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Sep 14, 2020 03:11
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floWenoL posted:Thanks this is really helpful! There's so much info on the 'net that it's difficult as a newb which one applies to my particular situation. No problem, the worst thing about thre web is there's information on EVERYTHING out there, "how do I apply this information to me?"Is the tricky bit. You can spend 20 years reading the NEC and it doesn't mean you can wire a house.
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Sep 14, 2020 04:45
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If you have problems with brushy weeds like blackberries, I'd recommend trimethylamine aka tryclopr amine, very low toxicity, not considered a carcinogen, breaks down rapidly in waterways to harmless compounds so it's not a pollutant. Plenty of research out there by third parties and universities on the subject. And it kills the gently caress out of blackberries, a bit harder to apply than something like glycophosphate (need to do it at the right time of year, etc) but way less bad for everything not weed related.
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Sep 17, 2020 03:13
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Moss lawns rule, you never have to mow them, they like damp shade.
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Sep 19, 2020 00:18
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floWenoL posted:I tried drilling a hole, but whatever material this is was too tough, at least for my basic drill. However, I managed to cobble together something using sugru and a drywall anchor: I dunno how you could possibly fail to drill through that old FRP. I love your fix though, looks great, very innovative, should work fine.
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Sep 20, 2020 05:12
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Definitely do not put a regular outlet on the 240/208V circuit for your compressor, unless you like the FNG at your shop melting various electric tools. Do what Kid Sinister or Hawk said, make sure that your indicator light and the supply for the compressor are compatible voltages. VVV sorry, I was trying to add onto what you said. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Sep 25, 2020 |
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Sep 24, 2020 21:36
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H110Hawk posted:He did say peel off a 120v leg. Or I think that's what he meant. He said two phases, I assume it's a 3ø compressor if it has an L14-30, I don't think a 240V single phase machine would need a neutral for any reason.
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Sep 25, 2020 01:52
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Plastik posted:An L14-30 has a neutral phase as well as a ground so yes, it would have a neutral phase. Is the breaker you flip off 2-pole or 3-pole? I agree a NEMA L14-30 should be 120/240, but that doesn't mean it is. If it is, why does it have a neutral? Contactor coil?
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Sep 25, 2020 06:49
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Plastik posted:It's 3 pole single throw, and as for why it has a neutral I'd imagine they run 120 in the pressure switch so they can use a cheaper off the shelf unit. If it's a three-pole breaker it doesn't have a neutral, it's an improperly wired 14-30
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Sep 25, 2020 15:18
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For a simple rat slab like that you'll be fine pouring straight on the ground, gravel and sand can get you a better base if you want. For reinforcement this will be ideal for you application, space it off the ground ½ the depth of your slab. A 60lb bag of concrete is 0.45 ft³, so 8'x3'x0.25' is 6ft³ ÷0.45=13.3, round up to 14 bags of ready mix, getting a couple extra and returning them if you don't need them can be good, since a small variation in depth can lead to a big variation in concrete volume. E: You're probably good to just earth form the concrete, you can line the perimeter with expansion joint if you want, or definitely should if it butts up to other pavers or concrete, a trowel and a float should get you flat enough. For an outdoor patio I like to do a broom finish, get you a nice sturdy push broom, let the concrete set for a couple hours until the top is a little dry and sandy, then carefully broom it in one direction, it makes a nice tractiony surface when wet, and hides imperfections in flatness. Here's how it looks on our front walk.  You may want to dig a little trench around the perimeter of the slab down to 6-12", to provide a little more protection from the rats. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Sep 26, 2020 |
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Sep 26, 2020 20:57
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I'd unscrew them from the jamb, I don't think they come apart like normal hinges.
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Sep 26, 2020 21:39
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You might also destroy your water heater if those nipples are corroded enough.
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Sep 27, 2020 20:34
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55 is usually the minimum I see on rental agreements and whatnot, safety buffer for pipes on exterior walls.
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Sep 29, 2020 03:34
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Toebone posted:The exhaust runs through a wire mesh filter that picks up oil droplets, and I've seen carbon filters you can add. Mostly it makes a lot of noise and blows hot air in your face. They're fuckin useless and shouldn't meet code, the cheapest ducted one is 3x the price for some reason. I took my shity Broan down, and they're so cheap they use the same steel main body for all models, so they all have knockouts on the back, so I siliconed a piece of sheet metal over the front vent and ducted that poo poo out through the wall. YOLO.
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Oct 4, 2020 05:27
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actionjackson posted:no it's for residential, my city is known for stupid poo poo like this (Minneapolis) It should be as easy as shutting a valve, disconnecting a flex pipe, and reconnecting it to the old range. Here's a decent video: https://youtu.be/b8F9fFjWDI4 Note: pipe sealant goes on piping threads only, not the flare fittings.
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Oct 11, 2020 20:36
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The house I rented a room in with like 6 other guys had a commercial gas range, and the oven would announce it was lit by going *boom* and exploding the oven door into the ground, where it would ricochet back up and smash into the oven.
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Oct 12, 2020 17:16
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Pollyanna posted:Also should I be worrying about getting lead poisoning from all this paint dickery I'm removing? I'm washing my hands but I sure do hope I'm not inhaling lead dust. Most of that paint should be lead free, and as long as you don't break it up much you shouldn't be exposed to too much lead. Wear gloves if you're able, and 100% wash your hands thoroughly before eating or drinking.
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Oct 13, 2020 05:07
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You are being the opposite of Pollyanna about this...
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Oct 13, 2020 07:03
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Pollyanna posted:Yes, yes, I know. Elviscat posted:Most of that paint should be lead free, and as long as you don't break it up much you shouldn't be exposed to too much lead. Wear a respirator if you have one, but if you're not making paint dust you're not inhaling lead. CDC guidance: https://www.cdc.gov/nceh/lead/prevention/sources/paint.htm
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Oct 13, 2020 19:51
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3D Megadoodoo posted:If you want to heat up something metal without burning adjacent material, couldn't you use a soldering iron instead of a blowtorch? (I have no idea, hence the question mark.) This is a good idea, especially if you can get a cheap one that goes up to 11, that threadlocker should let go when it gets hot enough, and make the screw much easier to extract.
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Oct 16, 2020 03:16
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