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Is there any reason I shouldn't caulk the expansion/crack lines cut into the floor of my garage? Obviously wouldn't use "caulk" but something designed for concrete.
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Jun 27, 2009 16:15
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Gibbo posted:Question: What sort of epoxy/other compound would be best to do this? It just needs to be held in place, and bear a little bit of lateral pressure. I have literally used this stuff for 100 different things.
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Jul 16, 2009 13:51
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Dominoes posted:Quick question: I have a rasterbation mounted on a 34"x22", 3/16" thick piece of hardboard, and have no idea how to mount it on my wall. I tried putting a nail through the corner, but it splintered. Would mirror brackets work? What's the best way to mount a piece of thin wood on a wall? Double stick tape would work. The kind that is 1/8 inch foam. For a more professional mount, you could epoxy a piece of braided wire in two places near the edge, about 1/3 of the way down. When the epoxy sets, you put a nail in the wall, then hang the wire on the nail and adjust until it hangs straight.
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Jul 22, 2009 23:45
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LoreOfSerpents posted:Yeah, that's how it is normally done in this area. We run a dehumidifier throughout the summer regardless of the flooring. Carpeting is so ridiculously common in basements here that I was surprised about the mold/mildew caution. Epoxy is probably the way to go, especially if you're starting from scratch. They make some incredible products out there - get a professional installation and it will last virtually forever.
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Jul 24, 2009 00:25
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I like the look of dyed concrete, but I'm not sure I would enjoy seeing the cracks as they form over time. Tile will most likely go down in the bathroom and the laundry room, but I hadn't thought of using it for the family room.
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Also, almost everyone will recommend JB Weld for most metal-to-metal sticking duties. Is JB Weld conductive? The rear defroster (wire thing in/on glass) in my Expedition came unattached and I have been meaning to solder it back on. It would be much easier to just glue it - but will it conduct electricity?
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Jul 30, 2009 19:47
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Vaporware posted:nope, nonconductive, sorry. You need conductive epoxy. I'm pretty sure I've seen a tiny tube next to the register at autozone. Figures - Google search reveals "Loctite - Rear Window Defogger Tab Adhesive". Apparently I'm not the only one...
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Jul 30, 2009 20:05
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belt posted:It's just more convenient because I live in a small town and I'm about an hour away from the nearest store that sells anything more than RoundUp. Have you tried the "special" RoundUp that stops weeds from re-sprouting? Regular roundup is made to be harmless to everything except the leafy parts of a plant. So you can pour it around the roots of stuff and nothing will happen, it has to get into the plant through the leaves. The "special" kind (can't remember the name, but it comes in a silver bottle) has both types of herbicide, so it kills the plants that are growing and it has something else that effectively poisons the soil for a few months. I've never used it but friends have (on sidewalks) and they said it worked. That, or I'm sure you could google something you can make. Two parts dynamite, one part gasoline, etc...
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Aug 9, 2009 05:31
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Gibbo posted:Looking to buy a dremel (rotary tool, whatever you call them these days) soonish, and I'm after model/make suggestions. I'm going to be using it mainly for computer case modding, but it could see some wood work in the future (which would actually just be a wood case.. I see a trend.) SPend the money up front to get a high-end model. Mine is one-speed, basic, and I am wishing I spent the extra $20-25 to get the variable speed one. No particular reason, it's just I can see where sometimes it would be better to have a choice. Dremels are really handy, and the low-power aspect is a plus, because there's a limit to how much damage you can accidentally do when you screw-up and hit your hand, or forearm, or leg, or whatever. You never get too hurt, and I am a lot more comfortable letting my kids use it (with supervision) when they want to do stuff. Wear eye protection, though. When cutting metal, it throws off these tiny sparks that you don't see...
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Aug 24, 2009 19:04
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Dragyn posted:If you're in the US, and you're getting black mold because of a dampness problem, I believe that is grounds to stop rent until it is fixed, as that is a serious health risk. Your landlord is almost certainly full of poo poo. Wet carpet due to rain is HIS/HER problem and will go from an annoyance to a health issue to making the place a smelly toxic cesspool in a matter of days. Tell the landlord you expect it to be fixed or you will call the city/county and have THEM deal with it.
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Jun 1, 2011 18:24
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jvick posted:I think it depends on the state, but generally the landlord. If the landlord is, there will generally be a clause stating that the landlord is responsible for the gardener. Almost always it is the landlord, unless it says differently in the lease, as landlords are usually responsible for maintenance and repairs, etc.
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Jun 10, 2011 01:53
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The SARS Volta posted:They sell these artsy-crafty draft stoppers that look like a long cloth tube with a space in the middle that you can hang on the doorknob. When you leave, you hang it up, when you come home you throw it down and kick it in place.
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Jun 12, 2011 02:42
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