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ZeeBoi posted:What's the best thing to use to fill a hole around a pipe that goes into a wall and also can stop noise passing through? Do you own the property in question or do you rent? That sort of dictates what you can do. Until then get some of these ----------------
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May 21, 2009 07:14
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ZeeBoi posted:I rent. I guess if it's not something I could do myself with the foam I'd have to bug the landlord. Don't use foam. Expanding foam sealant is messy and a bitch to get off of basically everything. You can do something with it, it just means your solution has to be non-permanent, non-damaging, and safe. By safe I mean like if the pipe is a steam pipe for a radiator packing the area around it with something that doesn't care for heat is probably not ideal. Anyone in DIY can walk you through a something as basic as "A sheet of loving plywood" to actually building a fitted nice-looking removable facing backed with sound insulation. Post pics and it will help people think about the solution spatially. ----------------
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May 21, 2009 21:09
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ZeeBoi posted:
Well having the landlord do it would be best. You can either make them do it, or do it yourself. Hell, maybe they'll comp for your materials and time. My suggestion if you want to DIY in a not ugly way: Alright, that's a gross hole. You have a gross hole. Congratulations on your gross stuffed-up hole that's all surrounded by a filthy matted carpet and penetrated by hard steel pipe. Aaand it's a radiator pipe. So, congratulayions on your hot sweaty gross plugged-up filthy matted hole. Your corner is like the self-loving crotch of a filthy transvestite prostitute. Vacuum your carpet and wash your walls. Get all that black poo poo and everything else out of there. Clean your hole. Clean it. Keep your hole clean. Get the carpet as far away from your workspace as you can so you do not get a rash. Run the vacuum around again. Get a piece of acoustical insulation board and a piece of drywall, layer them together with adhesive or tack them with fasteners. Shape them in two sections to fit tightly around the pipe inside your gross steamy hole. Now follow these instructions on how to get the patch in up to step three. Stop there. Then get some fire-resistant foam cord or fire-resistant foam weatherstripping in the appropriate size to stuff into what space is left between the sweaty steamy hard steel pipe and your freshly patched hole. Stuff that hole. Stuff it. Stuff it. Stuff it up real good. Then you'll want some variation of a two-piece pipe trim collar to mask the meeting between pipe and drywall patch. Poke around at a hardware store; explain what you want, the staff will probably point you to it. Affix trim collar. It protects the chastity of your hole. Proceed with step 4 of the drywall patching instructions: spackle, sand, and paint. Gonna want a screwgun and a countersink. Everything else you'll want for sealing up your nasty hole real tight, oh yeah, is either listed in the drywall patching article or listed above. ... Now here's the hitch: that's a radiator pipe, so everything you use needs to like, not loving melt and catch on fire when exposed to heat. ----------------
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May 22, 2009 04:48
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nemesis07 posted:I've got a lease on a house that will begin in August, and I will be sharing the house with 4 other dudes. It was meant to be a single family home (3bed/2bath) and has three large living rooms, one of which I intend to turn into a bedroom. The agent leasing the house to us said that was fine, but I'm really unsure of how exactly to put doors in without doing permanent damage to the woodwork. I figure it would probably be easiest to install only one door, and simply block off and soundproof the other opening with a temporary wall. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing or any recommendations for how I can get some privacy without losing my security deposit? Yes, it should be feasible and yes, frame-within-frame is one way to go for temporary partitions your big thing in terms of damage will be fastening your temporary walls/doorframe to the passageway frame and floor. Ask your landlord / agent who "said that [it] was fine" what you can get away with sinking into the woodwork in terms of screws and anchors ... and that will dictate what you can do to build what you want. That it is necessarily temporary makes me inclined to think of what you describe more as set-masking problem than a construction framing and installation problem, so check out: http://www.amazon.com/Backstage-Handbook-Illustrated-Technical-Information/dp/0911747397 for how to actually go and build and hang the walls and door ----------------
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May 29, 2009 20:01
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