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creationist believer posted:Am I thinking about this right? Should I head to Home Depot tomorrow or does anyone suggest something different? Hit up garage sales tomorrow and get a whole bunch of clamps for $6. Then you can do whatever you want. I think getting a few 1x2s or 2x4s and nailing them together so you can put 6 clamps or so per side on the railing would work out best. It's best not to engineer something like this; just put it together and when it fails, add more clamps.
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Mar 1, 2009 06:40
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devnull420 posted:What's the best way to hook this up? I was thinking of just cutting it right in the center, stripping off a little more insulation, and putting all three wires (the one from the switch plus what is now two wires) into the nut, but I don't think they'll all fit. This. Cut the loop. Connect a wire to the 2 ends you just made with a wire nut. Get a bigger wire nut if you have to (probably a red one). If your dimmer has a ground wire, it probably needs it to operate. Connect it and the bare wire together with a bare piece of wire and screw that into the back of the box. It's hard to tell, though; if the box is plastic, just connect the uninsulated wire to the ground wire on the dimmer. I hate it when people loop wires. It's so very very lazy.
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Mar 4, 2009 05:52
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Local Yokel posted:I have one of these and find many, many uses for it. How are you supposed to get the plug out when you're finished? I was sawing some old painted 3/4" plywood with it recently, and had to stop after each one and hammer the plugs out with a tiny screwdriver from the back, or splinter the thing out from the front. It was a big pain, there must be an easy and clever way to do it. With wood, you get some 3" wood screws and drive them into the front. That pops the plug out. The other thing you can do is spin the hole saw off the arbor and hammer the plug out from the back; that's what I have to do when putting holes in metal. I do a LOT of hole sawing and nobody I work with has ever come up with a more clever way of getting metal plugs out than "spin the saw off and hammer the plug out with a screwdriver."
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Mar 28, 2009 02:26
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Dominoes posted:Crosspost from A/V arena: I want to build a 2x12" guitar speaker cabinet, and have a question about table saw use. I need a length of 32 inches for one of the cuts, but my table saw ripfence only goes to 25.5 inches. What should I do? I've thought of two things: Have Home Depot cut it and use a circular saw. If Home Depot fucks up the cut by even a little bit, it won't fit together. I've tried and failed to get straight cuts with a circular saw. Don't trust home depot to make precision cuts. Get a straight piece of something and clamp it to your board to use as a fence for your circular saw.
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Apr 1, 2009 12:22
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I saw some professional tile installers put level marks in a 40x40 room with convoluted edges this way. The tile comes out really nice; perfectly level around corners and into the hallway.
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Apr 7, 2009 12:16
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csammis posted:For applying caulk, I prefer the little rounded plastic tool that is sold next to the caulk / caulk guns at hardware stores. Using your finger works, but it can also generate a ridiculously huge mess on any tools or surfaces you touch accidentally. Pampered Chef nylon scrapers are the perfect tool for this. They've got two different radius corners for rounding and a sharp corner for getting stuff off of where it shouldn't be. The people applying all the caulk on all the windows and doors at the new middle school I'm working on used super-cheap plastic knives (like the ones in the picnic section at the grocery store) and got FABULOUS beads with them; but they do it 10 hours a day for weeks at a time to get that good. Also, read the directions on your caulk if you're going to be painting. Some say to paint after 30 minutes and within 24 hours, some say to wait 24 hours to paint. Some say to use latex or oil paint, some say to use only water-based paint.
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Apr 10, 2009 22:16
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Rogetz posted:Sooo the knob on my shower is stuck, which means that I can't turn the water off. I shut off the supply to my unit so there's no concern of it overflowing, and hopefully the landlord will actually get the message that I left him soon. Any idea what I can do short of calling a plumber? I'm worried about breaking it if I force it too much. Force it. It's not like it's going to get any more broken. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
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Apr 18, 2009 01:46
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Chinaski posted:Thanks to the two answers above. I guess I'll try it out to see how it works and consider alternatives in the meantime. Brazing is an identical process using a metal that melts at a higher temperature and is typically stronger.
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May 6, 2009 12:11
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hey santa baby posted:Anybody know what this little gadget is called in English, and where one would go to get one? You use it to make little tapered pilot holes for wood screws. Yesterday I tried to explain this to some dude at Lowe's, but he had no idea what i was talking about. It's called a gimlet. You can get them at woodworking stores; they're fairly specialty items now that everyone has electric drills with quick-change collets.
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May 11, 2009 12:17
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Xenomorph posted:How do I hook up my ice maker? As a Not A Plumber, I suggest getting a small valve, a barbed tee that fits all those hoses, and four hose clamps. Put the valve on the incoming water line, then a short section of hose from the valve to the tee, then both of those hoses on the tee. Tighten hose clamps, see where the water sprays from.
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May 12, 2009 05:46
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Comrade Milton posted:I have many neobdynium(sp?) magnets with a pull force each of about 7 pounds which I'm trying to glue to a box, one on a corner. I'm using UV-E3000 for the adhesive, but the force of the magnets necessitates the use of clamps, but the clamps, when applied, are not cooperating in a proper fashion and keeping the magnets where I want them. Xenomorph posted:'m wondering if there was some electrically controlled valve that the 2 hoses went to that split and controlled things.
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May 13, 2009 00:50
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fast5c posted:Posting this in the correct thread now per the rules. Since I saw the other thread first, I already answered. I think that thread is the correct thread for both this and the previous question, as the previous question is answered in the first post of that thread.
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May 29, 2009 01:33
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If it's a decade old, the pipes are getting cold, you can hear fluid gurgling past your expansion valve, the outside unit is clean and its fan is spinning, call the HVAC company and get a new refrigerant charge put in. It's probably leaked out. Most people get a HVAC pre-start service every year that includes all of the above, and most HVAC companies charge $50-100 to do it. You can do all except recharging yourself, and that's really all the cost there is.
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Jun 28, 2009 18:02
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blindjoe posted:You also can't just rotate the motor because oil will now be in the wrong place. Find a free rusted out lawnmower off craigslist and take the engine off of it. I wanted to convert a vertical shaft to horizontal (standard go-kart stuff) and it's really tricky. Building a new sump, etc. Most people suggest using a pair of pulleys and a V-belt to get the rotation, or just finding a motor with the correct shaft orientation.
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Jun 30, 2009 01:44
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ease posted:Ahh but I want a honda tiller damnit. Maybe I can find a vertical shaft out someones cheap craigslist honda mower. It's actually a really old Agway. No idea who really made it but it looks like it's from the 60's or 70's and solid as you can get. Whole thing is made out of really thick plate. I wouldn't go over 9hp. I used a 9hp tiller and if you hit anything, the engine is so powerful it will just rip itself out of your hands. Smaller motors will bog and hesitate. I'd say 5-7, with 6.5 being a really common lawnmower size.
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Jun 30, 2009 02:45
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Wuhao posted:OK, so, I just got my appliances in, and I've hit a couple snags. 1. The guy that installed it was also afraid of an explosive, colorless gas, so he used two wrenches to tighten the cap. You should do the same. 2. Follow the plumbing all the way back to where you do have running water. Something's not turned on or connected, or there's a blockage in the line/valve/etc.
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Jul 10, 2009 03:10
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Reed posted:Is there a standard size bolt for affixing a lampshade to a lamp? If so, does anyone have an idea what size it is? The lamp harp I just looked at appears to use a 1/4-20 bolt and decorative cap nut.
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Jul 12, 2009 07:16
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ease posted:I need to make an air cannon that can be fired underwater. What kind of valve should I use for this? Is there a way to do it with a sprinkler valve like regular land based potato gun style cannons? It's pretty important that it doesn't fire off randomly. If you use environmental (waterproof) splices, switch, and battery box, then the normal electric sprinkler valves should work fine submerged.
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Jul 17, 2009 06:18
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FamousThomas posted:I have some projects where I need to stick metal to metal. A soldering iron doesn't work because everything need to be hot enough for that to happen. Is there something between a soldering iron and a welding torch I can use for small projects? Brazing or silver soldering, usually with propane, MAPP, or air-acetylene. Also, almost everyone will recommend JB Weld for most metal-to-metal sticking duties.
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Jul 30, 2009 03:50
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FamousThomas posted:You guys were so darn helpful before I'll ask another question! Even with your somewhat dull HSS bit and especially with a new bit, a bit of cutting fluid goes a long way at prolonging bit life. Effective cutting fluids are: cutting oil, household oil (3-in-1), distilled water. Not effective cutting fluids are: used motor oil, WD-40, Dr. Pepper.
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Aug 27, 2009 20:25
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daspope posted:Sorry, I plan on making a clear six sided box with Plexiglas for the sides, and if possible soldered together. Or will I need to make a frame, screws or glue? As far as the strength of it, I want it to be able to hold it self together but I will not be putting weight on it. Solder sticks metal to metal. Heat-welding plexi in a way that looks good is probably not possible at the amateur level, but I'd like to know a technique if it is. You want to use 2-part epoxy; it's like a glue, but incredibly strong.
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Sep 2, 2009 21:32
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The scary black thing is just a start capacitor. I assume the harness plugs into the receiver? If so, then the receiver probably controls the speed of the fan and the dropout time on the starting capacitor. This means it may not be easily replaceable. I suspect the yellow and pink wires are the power to the fan, and connecting them one way makes it go one direction, and the other the other, but without a start cap in there, it may just stay still and hum until it catches fire.
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Sep 9, 2009 08:37
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kid sinister posted:I wouldn't. Screw-in anchors have a tendency to crumble the drywall between their threads (esp. with older drywall), usually leaving whatever you hung on it broken on the floor and a 1/2" hole in your wall. This is more an issue of old drywall vs new drywall. New stuff: threaded anchors, either nylon or metal. Old stuff: tap-in or toggle bolts. There are also some anchors that work in old or new that work in a semi-toggle fashion, and work great in masonry as well, both hollow- and filled-block and brick. Edit: The Hilti Quick-tog are the ones I've used. We used Hilti fasteners exclusively for a bit, and their plastic tap-in anchors aren't the best, but their plastic and metal screw-in (HFP and HSP, respectively) are top notch. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Sep 10, 2009 |
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Sep 10, 2009 21:48
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Local Yokel posted:Please, give me some ideas. Put your screwdriver in there, put just less than too much torque on the screw, and tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer. Keep the torque on, and increase the "taps" until they're fairly solid hits and you're about to do significant damage to the screw.
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Sep 21, 2009 06:37
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Local Yokel posted:I'll try it when I get home today. That will kill it so fast you'll never get a chance to stop.
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Sep 21, 2009 16:29
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Ok. Have you been messing with it any? If so, there's some stuff you need to take off. I'm guessing the relays are R1, R2, and R3, in that order. That means the contacts should look like code:Hell, hit me up on AIM/ICQ/MSN/Yahoo (info in profile) and I can straighten you out, but it's way way too much work to scribble all over that pic with GIMP.
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Oct 13, 2009 02:44
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HELLOMYNAMEIS___ posted:Yes, I intend B to always be connected to the origin. A should only be connected to the origin when the switch is closed. So far, so good - but how should I modify my connection if I never want A and B to be connected to each other? Stuff to try: but now with pictures. First is a single-pole double-throw center-off switch. Second is a diode.
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Nov 16, 2009 02:21
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hielonueve posted:A/V Room Wiring - You're looking for Smurf Tube, AKA Electrical Nonmetallic Tubing. Easy rough-in, easy pulls. It comes in 1/2" and 3/4" trade sizes. I'm pretty sure HD and Lowes both carry it and its fittings; it'll probably be cheaper to run than plastic pipe of any other flavor.
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Nov 18, 2009 20:19
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Local Yokel posted:gently caress! FLOOD! There are typically two bypass valves on a water softener. Your bypass may be going into a drain that's never been used and is full of blown-off lint and spiders. Take the thing off bypass and run it without salt for a day. It won't kill anything.
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Nov 21, 2009 04:40
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Upright Sloth posted:They show up as a lighter area, the unscratched wood is dark like in the middle of the circle. So, these are pretty shallow - I should be able to just buff them out? What's the best way to do that, like I said I've never done anything like this. Mop-n-glow or whatever acceptable floor polish treatment will work on that finish. Mop-n-glow is pretty safe for most stuff, but "test on an inconspicuous area, note any discoloration," etc.
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Nov 29, 2009 20:32
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kid sinister posted:No problem! Keep in mind that a galvanized coating only prevents rust where it is... If you cut that threaded rod, then those cuts won't have the coating and will rust. But the stores sell a can of stuff called "cold blue" that's spray-on galvinizing that works OK for a couple of years.
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Dec 5, 2009 13:41
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bison wings posted:hey guys, quick question that I don't think deserved its own thread: I want to rig my girlfriend's Christmas gift to shoot confetti when she opens the box. Is there a low tech way to manage this? Mouse trap under a box of confetti.
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Dec 13, 2009 00:11
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Leperflesh posted:Since the hardwood runs right into the closets in all three bedrooms, I'm planning to start in one of the closets. I figure if I accidentally make a divot or gouge in one of them it won't be as big a deal. Get way, way WAY more sanding drums than you think you'll need. Like, if the guy at the store estimates six, get 20. You can return them, and it's awful to run out. Go with the grain. If the deck crawler doesn't get all the way to the edge, expect to spend the same amount of time doing the edges as you do the rest of the room. I sanded a 1200 sqft house in a day, as my wife did the edges. It was a lot of hard work, probably 12 solid hours of work sanding. The water-based poly did go down great; we used fans to dry the stuff in the recommended time and used 3 coats. It looked great when we were done. I cannot emphasize enough: don't sand anything by hand that you can sand with a machine. Use the largest machine for as much as possible.
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Dec 16, 2009 00:44
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Leperflesh posted:I agree with Kid Sinister. A transformer isn't much more than a coil of wire... it shouldn't just 'die' after a year of use. A light bulb is just a coil of wire, too, and they don't last a whole year if lit constantly.
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Jan 8, 2010 20:21
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Leperflesh posted:Hmm. Maybe that's what's wrong? That's weird. Why design a system that wastes power for days on end, just to make a noise once a week or something? OK I give up, maybe it's actually designed that way for some reason. They're designed in the 1920s when nobody cared about power usage.
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Jan 9, 2010 02:40
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NickNails posted:I have not. I just discovered this today and the office isn't open on weekends. I will be calling tomorrow morning to find out what to do. Most likely they will want a certified plumber to replace the valve. If it's a small trickle, you can shove a piece of bread in the pipe. Old donuts work well, too. Once the valve glue sets, the water dissolves the bread.
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Jan 31, 2010 19:27
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Socratic Moron posted:I'm utilize rainwater catchment as my source of potable water. Only problem is, we have acid rain here on occasion so our water is acidic. Home Depot has bags of crushed coral (calcium carbonate) and my thought is I can add it to the catchment system to help neutralize the water. Can this cause me any problems? I don't think so. You'll get strange nitrates, nitrites, sulfates, sulfites, and carbonates in your water, but the pH will be OK.
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Feb 4, 2010 06:34
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Fox_Spy posted:Now, as for the light fixture. Spent some time working on this, the inner ring definitely doesn't unscrew or anything. The outer ring turns a little bit. I can pull the inner ring down a bit on one side, but not on the other. Still can't seem to get into it though. I'm going to feel really stupid if I end up calling an electrician to change this bulb. If you break it, it needed replacing anyway. 
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Feb 14, 2010 03:17
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bunnielab posted:No magnetic tip man. I need that poo poo. Klein makes a tape like that; I've only seen it at electrical supply houses. The package says 8' standout but one of my coworker's will stand 12' no problem. He also has one of the new Kobalts; he had an old one until the magnet fell out, and Lowe's couldn't replace the tape with an identical model.
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Feb 15, 2010 14:45
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Wreckus posted:I'm installing a hottub, the previous owner has taken care of most of the work. They installed the 240v circuit in the breaker box and ran conduit underground to the hot tub pad where it terminates inside of the hottub body. The only problem is that they did not install a GFCI. Return the GFCI (outlet, I assume) and buy a GFCI Breaker for your breaker box. Done.
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May 4, 2010 00:39
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