|
Dumb quick question. I'm trying to wire our house with cat6 and I've run into a few obstacles. In particular, I've got a room where I can't access the inside of the walls (well, not easily). This room backs up to a closet off the garage. I could easily run cable through the wall, into the closet, and from there, to the attic. Will breaching that wall cause me any problems (from insulated interior to semi-insulated garage closet)? Do I just need to take exta care to seal up any gaps, and if so, what should I use? I can either install a new work box or a wire grommet and seal around it, depending on what would be advisable.
|
#
¿
Feb 28, 2013 02:06
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 3, 2024 02:39 |
|
|
One Swell Foop posted:I hope this is the right thread to ask this. I have an uncommon Samsonite wheeled hardside suitcase, a variant of the Oyster. One of the smaller castor wheels has a couple of chunks taken out of it, and it causes the whole luggage to vibrate loudly when it's pulled and has started damaging the castor mounting from the vibration. I can't find replacement castors for this model, and I don't want to replace the luggage because it locks really securely (I leave it unlocked when I'm flying, for the TSA, but otherwise it's locked). Is there a substance I can use to repair the rubber tire on the caster wheels? I'm not gentle on this luggage so it'd need to be something pretty hardwearing; I've looked into industrial rubber repair putty for conveyor belts but I can't find it in quantities less than a pound. Never done it myself, but I've heard of people using in line skate wheels to replace worn suitcase wheels. There are a couple of YouTube videos demonstrating this, although the wheels don't look identical to your luggage.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 14, 2013 04:37
|
|
|
Really dumb question. I mean, really dumb. I have a garage with a bonus room over it. The support for the bonus room leaves a 1.5' outcropping in the ceiling of the garage, leaving me with open storage to the sides of this structure. (My description sucks. I'm sorry) http://imgur.com/2mWmG7d After poking around, my suspicion is that the sides of this structure are a solid beam covered in drywall (I can't detect any studs, but there seems to be more to it than just drywall). Is that probably the case and if so, is it acceptable to drill into this to mount any kind of hardware? Having never lived with a second story, I don't know if that is strictly forbidden.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2013 03:05
|
|
|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:What are you trying to do? Hang up a bicycle? Create a shelf for your collection of concrete gnomes? Store a bunch of wreaths, actually. Most of them can easily be hung with a 1/2 screw in drywall but my wife has a few surprisingly heavy ones. It just happens to be a convenient piece of bare wall - I figured if the beam shouldn't be messed with, it probably wouldn't make a difference what I was hanging. ↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓ That image is not entirely incorrect - I have no idea why we need that many wreaths. And the drywall hooks I have are not sufficient to hold the heavier wreaths, and everything else I have would enter the beam (assuming that I'm right about it being a beam). I suppose what you're suggesting are short drywall anchors? 2nd edit - What if I changed my mind and I want to hang a gnome shelf now. snickles fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Apr 25, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2013 03:46
|
|
|
My wife wants a fountain in the garden. My understanding is that to do this correctly, I really need an electrician to come and install a buried power cable to the fountain, correct? There seems to be a lot of different advice on the Internet, but I believe that any method other than the above would not be advisable.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 1, 2013 22:41
|
|
|
priznat posted:Yeah it'll be pressure treated in the front and cedar in the food garden. I'm no expert, but I've been working with our raised garden beds for six years now and have yet to find a wood that did not attract termites, including cedar. We live in a moist climate, the southeast US, in a coastal region. Again, there very well may be something that works, but I haven't found it yet. We finally did away with the wood and built our bed using big ornamental bricks.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2013 18:00
|
|
|
Quick question that doesn't seem a good for for any other thread. We inherited an old cedar chest (possibly made in pre ww2 china) without a key for the lock. Before we got it, they pried the locking mechanism off the bottom half of the chest to open it. This is what I'm left with. http://imgur.com/eD88sD9 I can't find any similar locks, and not sure what I should do to open it. Bring it to a locksmith?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2013 19:16
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Hell, change it out yourself! Thanks. I pried the lock off without doing too much damage. I'll see if one of these fits. Thank you!
|
|
#
¿
Oct 20, 2013 16:09
|
|
|
Our dryer just died on us after only three years, and the repairman indicated that the reason may be a buildup of lint on the far end of our dryer vent (there was never much of a buildup on the dryer end). The vent exits the house vertically through the roof, which has a very steep incline (in other words, I probably don't need to be on it). Is vent blockage on the roof end a likely cause of dryer issues after such a short time and do I really have an alternative to accessing the vent on the roof?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2014 01:49
|
|
|
Is there any circumstance under which this is acceptable? Found this today in a closet in my parents house. http://imgur.com/WfH5aSn Some lamp fixture attached to a box wired to a lamp cord, all screwed to the underside of a shelf. No one in my family would own up to it.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2014 00:56
|
|
|
My parents have a house with an inadequate AC unit. They've supplemented the central air with two windows units on either end of the house but it's simply not cutting it any more. The central unit is at least ten years old. Would it make any sense to add another window unit or a ductless AC system or should the central unit just be replaced with a correctly sized system?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 25, 2014 19:26
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Good point. Filters, clean coils/basic maintenance stuff. Thanks for the suggestions. We will work on the maintenance and I'm guessing consulting a professional is the next step. Don't think we'll be calculating loads. 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 27, 2014 23:11
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:That's how the pros do it. Lay down a bead, smooth with finger. The ultra-pros use a plastic knife like you'd get in a flatware pack at a gas station for perfectly-radiused joints. Old credit card. The corner is the perfect radius and you can use a flat edge to scrape off excess.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2014 03:00
|
|
|
My son was playing with the clear plastic covers from a set of new windshield wipers and left them on our white painted table for a week. After I removed them tonight, there were dark marks on the paint where the covers had been. I'm guessing that there was some sort of protective solvent on the covers that affected the paint. Any idea if this is fixable? Soap and water, vinegar, and oil didn't seem to do anything and I'm hesitant to use a harsher cleanser.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2015 03:09
|
|
|
Cheesus posted:Thanks for the recommendation about the kreg jig kit! Didn't know/think about that. I'm a woodworker of probably similar skill to yourself and found myself in your situation last year. I've made a few things with just a circular saw and asked a similar question about upgrading to a table saw. I ended up buying a kobalt table saw I got on sale for maybe $200. There is no doubt in my mind that it is a far cry from a solid stationary saw. It's light and flimsy and very difficult and finicky to adjust. The fence sucks and the table is very short which makes working with large pieces difficult. Even so, it is light years beyond a circular saw. I tossed the stock blade and got a high quality one, and I'm amazed at how well it performs. I'd love to have a better saw, but space and money simply wouldn't allow it. You do have to temper your expectations, but I'm quite happy with the results I get. I'd also second the kreg jig. And buy the kit that comes with the kreg clamp. It's worth the ridiculous amount they charge for it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2016 01:05
|
|
|
I've got a light fixture in the bathroom that is rated for 60 watt bulbs, but (1) doesn't fit a 60 watt bulb well and (2) doesn't give off nearly enough light with a 60 watt bulb. The LED bulbs I've come across are just fractionally larger and so won't fit in the enclosure. Is there anything such as a slim or narrow LED bulb? I've found some of the flat ones by phillips, but the diameter of the long edge seems to be the same as a regular bulb. The appearance of the bulb doesn't really matter as long as it would be slightly narrower than a regular incandescent. Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2016 23:07
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Try Sylvania micro mini CFLs. They won't be as efficient as LEDs, but they sure are tiny. Lowes sells them. Exactly what I needed. Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2016 03:34
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 3, 2024 02:39 |
|
|
Got a sprinkler problem. My zones 4-6 (of 8) no longer work. I’ve replaced sprinkler heads before but nothing beyond that. I understand that I should have a control box somewhere that contains the solenoids and valves, which is probably where the issue resides. Although since my head box doesn’t give any errors, maybe that’s not it... I’ve watched some YouTube videos and read some tutorials and it looks like I might have to dig up half my yard looking for the valve/irrigation box in order to solve this problem. Am I missing something obvious here? Edit: I was, in fact, missing something obvious. After some further reflection I realized that zones 4-6 were all wired to a single “expansion” module. Swapping the wires to a different module let me activate the errant zones. A replacement module is on the way which should solve all my problems. snickles fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Oct 18, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2020 23:57
|
|