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Okay, here's my question. I have a very nice analog wall clock. It's radio controlled so it is always at the right time. The only problem is that it's ridiculously loud, and I'm not the kind of person that can sleep very well with something like this on all the time. Is there a way to remove the ticking sound? The clock is made by a company called Tic Tac, although I couldn't find a company website or any pictures of this specific clock online. The radio controlled unit has a model number which is HD-1688, and it looks to be made by Quartz. I can post pics if it will be helpful. Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks.
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Apr 2, 2008 04:43
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 19:51 |
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Here's an off beat question: I live a little ways out in the boonies here, and I really enjoy the peace and quiet. However this is somewhat ruined by the large transformer on the power line outside my house, which buzzes constantly. I imagine if it's making that much noise it isn't being completely efficient, and a quick stroll through the neighborhood revealed that my neighbors do not have this problem. My question is would PG&E care to actually come and fix this, or will they just laugh at me when I ask them about it? I could just climb up there with some wrenches and a screwdriver to tighten it up, but something tells me this is not the best idea....
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Nov 4, 2010 16:49
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:While we're talking about bad ideas, I think that being far out in the sticks is reason for a transformer to get "accidentally" shot during "hunting season," requiring replacement. Make sure it's about sunup on a Tuesday or Wednesday, so the crews are rested but don't have the end-of-week blues, and you won't be out of power when it starts to get cold and dark.
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Nov 6, 2010 02:49
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Two quickies: 1) Today I was trying to thread a 1/4" steel rod and I couldn't get it to start to save my life. I got one end of it okay, but the other I tried on for about an hour with no luck. Tried multiple chamfers / end shapes. Any tips? Is there a certain way I should chamfer / shape the end of the rod? Could it be my die is done for? (It was a cheap one). 2) I built a model of a geneva mechanism and I want to hook it up to a small motor, just for fun. Photo below... the hand crank / rubber band weren't working so well. Can someone point me in the right direction as to what to get? Since it's essentially a toy, it doesn't need to have any substantial power, just something that I hook to a 9V battery. Ideally I wouldn't have to spend more than $20 on a motor. Ideas for where I could find some cheap pulleys to hook up to that are welcome too. Cheers,
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May 22, 2011 03:52
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Help me Hax0r my Washing Machine Ok SA, here's a nice little electrical puzzle for you: I have a top loading washing machine that has a door lock "feature". The mechanism which locks the door has since been removed, and the wires leading to the mechanism cut. The mechanism has four wires leading to it, hereby referred to by their colors: White (W), Yellow (Y), Blue (B) and Red (R). The door-lock mechanism featured a solenoid, which I presume runs on 120-VAC. I've carefully measured the AC voltages between each pair of wires with the machine plugged in, and the results are as follows: Y-B: 6.3 Y-R: 5.6 Y-W: 35 B-R: 6.1 B-W: 115 R-W: 115 I've tried tying together every above combination except for BW and RW, as these seem dangerous, and there have been no results. The only note is when I hooked up my multimeter to the R-W combination, the 'Door Lock' light flashed and then went away. So, any suggestions for how to proceed? Perhaps my next step could be to try to hook up the solenoid between the higher-voltage pairs. It seems as if it is going to be harder to fool this washer than I expected, but it will be done! Backstory My washing machine is a 'new' and 'smart' washing machine. It doesn't have a knob for the water level, but rather it 'senses'.... something, and determines how much water to use, in theory using less water and killing fewer dolphins. It also has a wonderful and completely necessary feature, the door lock. Mind you it's a top loading washer, so the door lock doesn't seem to keep any water from spilling on the floor if the washer is suddenly opened mid cycle. I'm not entirely sure why it was there, must have had to do with the 'sensing'. Anyhow, I washed some T-shirts a couple of weeks ago, and my smart new washing machine said they were done, except they were soaking wet. I set it to 'spin cycle', but all it could manage was to lock the door, flash its 'sensing' light, make some clunky noises, and then present me with my equally wet shirts. At some point it decided that the door should stay locked, despite my unplugging it, so I said, "gently caress you, these are my shirts, I'll take them back now," and I pried the door open. Of course, this broke the locking mechanism, which I soon found out is worth precisely the monetary value of the entire washer. At this point when I pressed the start button it would try to lock the door, fail, and proceed to not wash any clothes at all. In my frustration I removed the locking mechanism and ripped it open, and in my hurry I forgot to unplug the drat thing first. Sparks flew (it seems that the B-W combination was activated, judging by the burn marks on the contacts), and power to my whole house was lost. The silver lining is that losing power caused me to open my breaker box, and then my fuse box, and to realize how freaking dangerous the whole electrical setup was. Now the landlady is going to hire people to install electrical hardware that is less than 100 years old. But she still doesn't know what I did to her washer 
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Sep 4, 2013 04:54
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 19:51 |
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Goober Peas posted:Also, the door lock on top load washers is to protect stupid people from sticking their hands in mid-wash and getting them tangled and ripped off. Well it's ironic then, that this stupid person almost burned his house down on account of the door lock. It's a Maytag Centennial. http://www.maytag.com/-[MVWC400XW]-1101156/MVWC400XW/
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Sep 5, 2013 03:03
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