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I'm moving into a home with wooden flooring. There aren't any big scratches or marks, but I have dogs and cats and I would like to protect the floor just in case they vomit or have an accident. Do I absolutely have to sand the floor before applying a clear coat? I would also love some recommendations about which type of coat to use to protect. I am worried one of my cats will throw up after I go to work and I won't see it until too late, leaving a permanent stain on the floor. How do I prevent this from happening?
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Jul 16, 2020 13:52
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I have these tasks to do on my new home. Apply protective coating for the wooden floors, paint the walls myself, hire a professional painter for the areas I can't do myself (high vaulted ceilings in some areas), maid service for a deep clean, and professional carpet cleaning. Which order should they be done for the most seamless transition? I am thinking about painting what I can, hiring a painter, scheduling the deep clean with the maid, hiring the carpet cleaners, then applying protective coating. Does that sound about right? I have pets, so I'd like to get as much done as possible before they come to the new house.
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Jul 17, 2020 15:45
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tangy yet delightful posted:The protective coating on the wood floors probably requires sanding so I think you'd actually want to do that first then painting after wiping down the walls and ceilings and then have the maid service clean at the end of it all.
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Jul 17, 2020 16:46
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How the gently caress did any of you figure poo poo out before Youtube was a thing? I vaguely remember going with my dad to hardware stores and him chatting up the old "retired" workers to talk through a fix, but I love that I can just type in a bunch of keywords and get tutorials right off the bat. I wonder if people still do that.
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Jul 20, 2020 17:04
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Tell me about installing a floating floor on a floor that's on a slope. The foundation elevation survey says the floor is about an inch higher on one end of the room. I'm interested in installing laminate flooring. Will this be an issue at all?
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Jul 25, 2020 02:57
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Sending the home inspection report to a handyman to pin point the things I'd like him to do so I don't have to make a whole separate email of lists- stupid idea or smart idea? I think I may end up hiring one person to do painting and fix some of the things I don't want to do myself, like fixing up a water heater vent that's open to the elements and some mortar work. He mentioned he wouldn't do mortar work if it was severe enough to hire a mason, but he could patch it with something like caulk if it was minor enough and he'd be done in like 15 minutes.
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Jul 25, 2020 22:20
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Cross posting from the home buying thread, but does this look like water damage? https://imgur.com/a/OPnS0ci The sellers finally cleared out their garage of the moving boxes, and this was what was awaiting below. I have no idea how the hell I'm going to clean this up, but it looks like.. paint and grease? How much work am I looking at here to clean all this up?
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Jul 26, 2020 22:11
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 This window part is cracked. Is this something I can easily replace or patch myself? What is the part that's broken called? I'm wondering if this is a DIY project or something I'd need to call the pros for.
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Jul 28, 2020 20:40
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CzarChasm posted:If the glass is cracked I'd consider that a pro job. If it were me I'd fill the damaged area with painter's caulk and try to match paint color after the fact. There are multiple windows that have this issue. The glass is perfectly intact. Did the previous occupants just not know how to properly shut a window or what? I was assuming the vinyl paneling had maybe degraded over time? Is this a common issue with old windows? 
Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Jul 28, 2020 |
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Jul 28, 2020 22:21
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PainterofCrap posted:What happens there is, the lock was thrown while the sash was up, and then someone came along and tried to shut the window. Thanks! This will be the first time of my life I can't just call maintenance whenever I need to fix anything. It'll be an adventure. On a sidenote, the youtuber Renovision mentioned 45 minute compound is better than DAP for patching dry wall as you don't have to use primer before painting. Is he right? https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-DryDex-16-oz-Dry-Time-Indicator-Spackling-Paste-12348/100634326 vs https://www.homedepot.com/p/USG-Sheetrock-Brand-18-lb-Easy-Sand-45-Lightweight-Setting-Type-Joint-Compound-384210/100321610
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Jul 29, 2020 20:47
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https://imgur.com/DPVyzlu What is this style of anchor, and how much of a pain in the rear end will it be to remove them so I can patch it and paint over it properly?
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Jul 31, 2020 17:38
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Hell yes! I found an anchor with the screw still in it in the laundry room, so I used the screw to pry the anchors out. Why the hell did the previous owners just paint over it instead of removing it? It wasn't even that hard. I guess next stop is to home depot for some joint compound? Renovision seemed to recommend the 45 compound, so that should be the ticket, right? I've got the painter coming next week, so I want to take care of this before too late. The previous owners did some weird poo poo, like painting over nails. https://imgur.com/a/DJim6ES
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Jul 31, 2020 19:24
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I have a whole bunch of screw anchor holes that need to be filled before painting. I am using Behr Marquee Antique White, a beige color. The base coat is a light blue-grey. If I use DAP Drydex to patch up the hole, do I have to prime it? What if I use joint compound that dries in 45 minutes? Also, as part of wall prep, it's recommended I sand the walls. What if the wall is textured? Just skip that step? How about something like this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Patch-N-Paint-32-oz-Premium-Grade-Lightweight-Spackling-01611/100094504 Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Aug 1, 2020 |
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Aug 1, 2020 12:36
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eddiewalker posted:I’d still consider priming since you’re going from a color to a white. Primer is much cheaper than trying to pile on extra coats of paint for hiding color. Thank you! Would getting a primed spackle be an adequate replacement? I saw that 3M had a primed spackle. Here is what I'm looking at painting over. https://imgur.com/a/l27K3AF Also, https://imgur.com/a/l27K3AF what kind of brackets are these? I want to pop the wire out of the shelves to paint, but I'm worried the plastic will break. Edit: Never mind I found out the top latch just pops off. Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Aug 1, 2020 |
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Aug 1, 2020 17:20
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https://imgur.com/a/9a8zedK Hey so I did a thing. A very bad thing. I used the steam wallpaper remover, but it didn't work on this portion as I think they didn't use a liner. Any ideas? Tomorrow I will buy some Dif spray and give that a try.
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Aug 3, 2020 02:18
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B-Nasty posted:I had the same issue removing painted double-layer wallpaper with a steamer. You'll need to knock off the peeling bits and skim coat it with mud before prime/paint. I called a wallpaper remover guy, and he can't come, but he sent the following cryptic message. "the thing to do is mix u a green box of mud in a bucket make it little thinner then peanut butter then spread it on solid trying to put it on even as u can once that dries mix a blue box of mud then do it the same but u can take almost all of it your just skim coating cleaning up first bed then u can let it dry then sand over it with 100 grit once that done take some blue box mud again and touch up any areas that are bad then it should be ready for texture" So, buy this https://www.homedepot.com/p/USG-Sheetrock-Brand-4-5-Gal-All-Purpose-Pre-Mixed-Joint-Compound-380119048/100321605 Then apply it after adding water , then buy this and apply it https://www.homedepot.com/p/USG-Sheetrock-Brand-18-lb-Easy-Sand-45-Lightweight-Setting-Type-Joint-Compound-384210/100321610 Right? Also, which grit sand paper will rip out those wallpaper remains?
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Aug 3, 2020 03:52
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In addition to my questions above, should I go with a trowel and hawk or pan and knife? I have a lot of open flat surfaces, but I also have to do a toilet room that's only like 3x5. I'm not even a week into home ownership, I can't believe I'm dealing with exposed drywall. For the little bits of torn drywall, I do need to prime it, right?
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Aug 3, 2020 12:56
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Final Blog Entry posted:Where the drywall is torn and has exposed the paper you need to prime with a specific primer like Zinsser Gardz or Sherwin Williams Drywall Conditioner. Otherwise you'll likely get bubbling when you paint over those areas. B-Nasty posted:Always keep in mind that professionals do drywall slightly differently, because they have time constraints that a homeowner doesn't have. In short, you can use the green lid all purpose mud for, wait for it, all purposes. It's actually much better stuff than quick dry, dust control, or light mud, it just takes way longer to dry (which pros don't want to wait for.) You may want to thin it slightly by adding water for skimming, but if you apply enough pressure with a wide knife, you'll be fine. https://imgur.com/a/MWdvwbo I've been tackling this wall all day. If I do the whole bathroom, I'm going to develop arthritis. Plan B. Skim coat over this bullshit. I've been washing this with soap and fabric softener. What do I need to prime this with so it won't crumble to pieces the moment the mud dries?
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Aug 3, 2020 20:20
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HycoCam posted:How old is the house? If it was built before 1976--be aware of lead paint. Sanding lead paint isn't a great thing to do. Time is ticking and I still have a lot of painting left to do.
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Aug 3, 2020 21:03
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I've been painting for a few days and covering my roller ina plastic bag. It feels noticeably heavier. How do I clean this up? Do I need to get one of those 5 in 1 tolls and squeeze the roller off?
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Aug 4, 2020 14:04
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Thanks! I'll pick up another pack when I'm at Home Depot. Any recommendations for a cutting brush? I feel like after a few runs the whole brush turns into a globby mess of paint. On a side note, this is crumbly. Why is it crumbly at the edges and what do I use to patch it? Can I just mud it, paint it and caulk it?
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Aug 5, 2020 03:15
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This is good advice, thank you! Are there any down sides to continuing the use the same tray liner?
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Aug 5, 2020 04:20
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H110Hawk posted:No I just toss em as it makes sense, which tends to be if I change color mid-day. If they're super dry and thinly coated I reuse em the next day. They're a buck. It saves you from having to wash the tray. It's the cheapest part of painting. A few pages back I posted about my debacle with wall paper. A few contractors later, I have a freshly skin coated wall. They left me some easy 25 mud. I was told to let it sit for a day, then I will sand parts of it smooth and paint over it. I'm realizing more and more that you can gently caress things up, but it's not a big deal since you can always fix it.
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Aug 5, 2020 05:13
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I didn't even think about the dried paint. I'll stop by and get some new tray liners today. My door that leads to the backyard is sagging so bad the previous owners removed the strike plate so the dead bolt will work. I came across several ways to fix it. Shim the hinges, align the door hinges with a crescent wrench or similar, or bolster the top hinge with a longer screw. Which of these solutions is the more permanent fix? If I replace with a longer screw, what screw should I use? Do I need to drill a pilot hole first?
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Aug 5, 2020 13:12
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Slugworth posted:Also making one trip to Home Depot in the middle of a project vs making two to three.  What the hell is this, why is it crumbly? And how do I fix it?
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Aug 5, 2020 13:33
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To explain further, the crumbling happened when I peeled away some paint and the small fragment fell out with the paint. The bathroom does have a lot of really heavy texturing which made me think it was plaster. Can I get this caulk? https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Alex-Plus-10-1-oz-White-Acrylic-Latex-Caulk-Plus-Silicone-18103/100097524 I feel like I have a thousand things to do on top of painting over this god awful blue grey that reminds me of a dead baby. The door that's sagging appears to have a long screw in the top hinges. Crapola.
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Aug 6, 2020 04:04
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HycoCam posted:At least one 4" screw with star drive (vs philips or square) in the top hinge is a really good idea, especially if you have solid/heavy doors. It's an older home. It looks like the previous owners did put in some longer screws on the top. Should I install then lower the strike plates? The previous owners straight up removed the strikeplate. Why.
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Aug 6, 2020 04:45
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HycoCam posted:My 1st guess would be the strike plate got taken off so the door would latch. Thanks for this! I'm going to tackle the damned thing. After I finish painting. I found out another bathroom of mine has wallpaper, but it's not bubbling up at segments, and the texture is a little more subtle. Can I prime it with oil based primer and paint over it safely? I was looking at Kilz primer. I'd also like to resolve the caulking on the interior window while I'm at the store. Silicone for bathroom fixtures (sink, tub etc etc), acrylic latex silicone is the ticket, right? How does this caulking gun look? https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-10-oz-Composite-Drip-Free-Caulk-Gun-HD117FG-B/304044876 I don't know poo poo about how to maintain a home, so I'm really grateful for all of you who are helping me figure things out. I'm trying to minimize spending as much as possible but it feels like I drop at least 30 bucks every time I head out to HD.
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Aug 6, 2020 13:26
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Looks like oil based primers are a bitch and a half to remove. Should I just sacrifice a brush and roller for the cause? I'm still confused about product selection on things like primers to prep wallpaper. Half the time I just roll the dice and hope the guy at Home Depot knows what he's talking about.
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Aug 6, 2020 14:07
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Final Blog Entry posted:Is the wallpaper already painted over? If so, just treat it like any other previously painted wall and topcoat over it. If not, the main risk with painting over wallpaper is the water/solvent in the primer or paint can loosen the adhesive and the seams can lift, so you may want to have a tube of seam repair adhesive on hand. Someone else may have a different opinion or experience in this regard, but I don't see the benefit to loving with oil primer over wallpaper. If you're buying your paint and supplies at HD, I'd go with Zinsser 123 rather than the Kilz II for a water based primer over wallpaper. It does look like it's been painted over. I'm using Behr Ultra paint which supposedly has primer in it already. Is that OK? Or should I still spring for Zinsser?
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Aug 6, 2020 14:24
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Oh my God my back. I finally finished removing one of the wallpaper areas. And this is what is left. I have a bag of easy 25 mud and zimzam 123 or whatever primer. What do I do and in what order? Turns out maintaining a home is a lot of work. https://imgur.com/a/i2dlFfM
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Aug 6, 2020 19:51
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Did I screw up by not using https://www.homedepot.com/p/Roman-Rx-35-PRO-999-1-gal-Interior-Drywall-Repair-and-Sealer-Primer-209907/203799597 over parts of the drywall where bits of the brown paper is showing through? I just skim coated over it assuming it would be fine. I still haven't put the Zim 124 primer over it. https://imgur.com/a/fpEPyNR
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Aug 7, 2020 04:13
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HycoCam posted:You do indeed want to repair torn face paper on drywall. A Final Blog points out--bubbling is the issue. The Roman stuff is indeed what you'd use to fix the torn face paper. My current project is trying to finish out the master bathroom, which involves a bit of caulking around the bathtub, sink, and shower stall. My painter recommended against silicone caulk and said painter's caulk which contains silicone would work just as well. Is he right? The gut at home depot paint department said I should prime, paint, then use silicone caulking. Who is right? Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 21:06
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Whoop! Thanks to you guys I was able to patch up the closet doorway. https://imgur.com/a/krH7r4M In the bathroom, do I need to apply caulking between the ceiling and the wall? The shower doesnt tile all the way to the ceiling so I have some drywall between the top of the shower and the crown molding. I'm going to apply silicone to the part where the wall meets the shower tile. What about the part where the drywall above the shower meets the crown molding? Should I hit it with some painter's caulk containing silicone?
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Aug 8, 2020 04:01
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I need to use tape to mask for silicone caulking. Can I use masking tape instead of painter's tape?
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Aug 9, 2020 16:31
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Two questions. I had to replace the light fixture. There are three bundles of wires. Copper, black, and white. Is it OK that I bypassed the green screw in the wall mount and connected the copper wire from the wall to the copper wire from the light fixture? Secondly, the previous home owners drilled a hole from a closet to the living room so they could run a wire. Looks like they drilled right through it. Do I need to do anything special when patching said hole? I was going to cram as much mud into the hole and just patch it and call it a day. Do I have to ensure the entire space is packed with mud or something like that?
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Aug 10, 2020 03:28
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They just ran a coaxial cable from room to room and decided to drill a tiny hole in the wall to do it. I did not test the copper wire with a multimeter, but plain copper is usually ground, isn't it? The black wire was stripped a little too far, so I just wrapped some electrical tape around it. Probably unnecessary since the white cable wasn't exposed, but I figured I may as well wrap it. My next thing on the list is hanging up mirrors. I'm terrified of hitting something I'm not supposed to like a water or electric line. Would a stud finder solve this issue?
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Aug 10, 2020 05:27
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HycoCam posted:At least one 4" screw with star drive (vs philips or square) in the top hinge is a really good idea, especially if you have solid/heavy doors. I really want to get this fixed before the cats move in so I can have the door wide open. Here are some pictures of what I am working with. https://imgur.com/a/4zgmTpu
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Aug 11, 2020 17:47
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I have a hole in my drywall. How do I know if I need to add mesh tape to it or not? Basically, what is the size tolerance where you can get by with just some joint compound? It's a place where they drilled a big hole to run a coaxial cable, so I don't exactly need structural integrity. I just want that eyesore gone.
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Aug 12, 2020 04:03
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 16:36 |
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Here's is what I am dealing with. https://imgur.com/a/dnt3LAD So, basically, patch it with some mud, let it dry, sand, then repatch it, right? Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Aug 12, 2020 |
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Aug 12, 2020 14:49
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