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Having some HVAC problems of course in the worst heatwave of the year. The furnace is about 5 years old and it's a Guardian GG9S130D20MP11A. Not sure the model of the a/c unit outside, but that's working fine. The indoor blower, however, will only stay running for about 15 seconds after startup and then will cycle off and on for 15-30 seconds at a time. It does the same thing if you put it on "FAN ON" mode at the thermostat. I tried running the system on HEAT, and everything appeared to function ok in that mode for about a minute or two. We had an HVAC tech come out this morning since I was out of town until about an hour ago, and he seemed confused by what was going on--typically, he said, the motor will either kick on or it won't, and the intermittent stuff is more likely when it's a faulty hi/lo sensor for the heat side and not on the A/C operation. His recommendation was to replace the blower motor, but since it's a beefy 1HP unit, the price including labor would be $1400. I've been trying to google up a storm since I've been home, but I'm hitting some dead ends on finding my exact scenario. Does anyone have any suggestions eta: is there anything wrong with replacing the motor with a generic Dayton one from Grainger? They carry 1HP, 120VAC, 4-speed motors in the same form factor for a fraction of the price ($240) plus I could go pick it up tomorrow. brugroffil fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Aug 11, 2016 |
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Aug 11, 2016 22:55
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 13:22 |
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Sliding shelves? My grandparents had a big pantry cabinet in their kitchen when I was growing up that sounds about the same size as what you're describing, and that worked well for them.
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Jan 20, 2017 16:50
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I don't remember if you said you did this already, but it's worth a quick vacuum around the gas ports. At my old house, a spider did a nice job of blocking up a couple of the nozzles so that the furnace cycled similar to what you're experiencing, though I'm pretty sure I was able to turn the blower motor on by setting the thermostat to the "cycle" or "fan" setting.
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Feb 7, 2017 18:49
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Speaking of thermostats, anyone have a recommendation for a decent programmable model? Our current programmable one seems like its temp sensor is messed up. It thinks the house is at 69 when it is really at 65 per three other temp probes, but it does so randomly so I can't just compensate but adjusting the desired temps. My wife and my schedules are pretty consistent so I don't really see how "smart" functionality would help us.
brugroffil fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Feb 7, 2017 |
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Feb 7, 2017 19:59
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Nope. It's on a wall with no direct sunlight and really nothing else near it. When I tested the temp, I set a little portable temp/humidity monitor directly on top of it and used both of my digital kitchen thermometers within a foot or two of the thing. All three devices except the thermostat agreed on the temp. It also felt much colder than 69 "should" have. I don't remember the model off the top of my head but I'll look later tonight.
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Feb 8, 2017 00:11
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The Dave posted:Of course the TV I want to mount is only passes over one stud for it to be centered in the wall. The mount wants you to bolt the rail into two studs. The TV is 40lbs, I was thinking it would hold up fine if the center hole was in a stud, and I used drywall anchors on the outside holes? Sound sane? You could always cut a hole in the wall and install some bracing. I had to do this in our old basement that had lovely 60's paneling for walls so even heavy-duty anchors weren't really an option. I use these drywall anchors whenever I want to mount something even moderately heavy: http://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Toggle-Lock-100-Pan-Head-Self-Drilling-Heavy-Duty-Drywall-Anchors-with-Screws-25-Pack-25320/100007784
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Feb 8, 2017 18:25
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Plywood screwed over doors or windows makes it look like abandoned property?
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Mar 16, 2017 21:14
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Had some heavy rainstorms over night and this morning, and I heard a steady drip-drip while eating breakfast this morning. Went into the dining room to discover water dripping from the trim around the window. This is a first floor window on a two story house, water was coming in at the top of the window near the corner, and the outside of the window was bone dry (there's a big overhang on the front porch, see the pic below). I'm guessing this means there's a roofing failure of some sort here. Is there anything I can check, verify, or do before I call out a roofer to look at the situation? If some water has gotten in the walls this way, am I okay with having the roof repaired but not tearing out drywall and insulation?  
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Mar 30, 2017 14:07
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Mar 30, 2017 14:17
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lol internet. posted:Need to mount a 3 pound picture - nail or screw with a drywall anchor? I assume I don't need to hit a stud given the weight. I'd go with a drywall anchor for both. For heavier items such as that mirror you mentioned, I use these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Toggle-Lock-100-Pan-Head-Self-Drilling-Heavy-Duty-Drywall-Anchors-with-Screws-25-Pack-25320/100007784 Maybe overkill for 30 pounds but they make different sized ones I think.
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Apr 4, 2017 14:17
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lol internet. posted:Is that metal anchor suppose to go into a stud or just drywall? Just drywall. It's like a heavy-duty toggle bolt. e: here's a good picture showing how they look installed: 
brugroffil fucked around with this message at 14:51 on Apr 5, 2017 |
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Apr 5, 2017 14:49
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How the hinges are mortised out possible? If it's a typical bifold with the hinges mounted on the surface though then I think you'd be fine.
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Apr 6, 2017 16:46
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You should be able to lightly sand, primer and then paint.
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Apr 12, 2017 17:09
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My sump pump line just runs out the side of the house and then above ground. It's 1-1/2" or 2" corrugated black plastic HDPE pipe. I want to bury this line this spring, but I'm not sure what the appropriate materials would be and how the line should end. My yard slopes down gradually towards a big prairie, and the current hose runs from my house to there. Do I use 3" or 4" HDPE, or do I need to use PVC for the buried line? Perforated or not? Gravel in the trench? Dry well at the end?
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Apr 19, 2017 18:23
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Looking for a little advice/confirmation on my options for a whole-home humidifier. Right now, I think I need something like the Aprilaire 700 series powered humidifier that doesn't need a leg running back into the ducting. My issue is that there's not really any room to mount a humidifier on the supply side, and even if I mount it on the return side, there's no room to run ducting back into the supply. Here's a pic of the Aprilaire 700 unit  Here's my ductwork  And a close up of the supply side showing how little room there really is  It doesn't show up well in the photo but the gap between the return and supply plenums is only maybe 3"
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Oct 6, 2017 00:34
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devicenull posted:It sounds like you probably want a steam humidifier instead, like the Aprailaire 800. In the winter, very low, 20% maybe. I'm in the Chicago suburbs so plenty of natural gas heating throughout the winter.
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Oct 6, 2017 01:21
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Great time for furnace problems! Three times in the past 24 hours, we've had the four-blink limit switch error code on our furnace. The furnace is running pretty heavily because it's so cold. Filter is only a couple weeks old so I'm not sure what's triggering it. The switch doesn't seem to be resetting unless I go turn power to the furnace off and then on, then it'll heat right up like normal. It's a guardian 95% efficiency furnace, if that makes any difference
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Jan 1, 2018 22:12
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What's the best drywall joint compound and tape for hanging and taping about 25 sheets in a basement?
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Feb 17, 2020 03:03
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Was just trying to price out materials but the guy's bringing his own tomorrow. Was going to hang the sheets myself originally but his price was worth it, never ever ever considered actually mudding and sanding myself!
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Feb 18, 2020 02:36
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Welp just found a roof leak around my bathroom vent. Slow drip from the fan cover. Went up into the attic to see exactly where it's coming from. Forgot to bring my phone, but the roof deck plywood on the downslope side of the exhaust vent cap is wet for about 1' where it then drips down onto the fan housing and runs down into the bathroom. Luckily, it's only a tiny bit of insulation that was wet and it's not touching the drywall. Is this something I can hopefully fix with some caulk when it stops raining and I can get out on the roof?
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Mar 18, 2020 21:27
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Mr Executive posted:I'm building a deck (Madison, WI) and I'm having trouble researching one thing (sorry if this isn't the right thread). The deck is very simple in that there's just a single beam parallel with the ledger board. The joists are attached to the ledger with hangers, but they just rest on top of the beam. My question is if/how exactly I need to secure the joists to the beam. Toe nail them? Hurricane straps? Every joist, or just some of them? Thanks Check out Simpson products https://www.strongtie.com/solutions/deckcenter 
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Jul 28, 2020 03:53
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MrOnBicycle posted:What would be the quickest and most effective way to pull up a terracotta tile floor? There is no need to save any of the tiles as there has been a small water leak going on and they are pretty much all ruined. I guess hammer and chisel is the standard method. Maybe pull in an airline and use an air hammer? Rent a demolition hammer
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Aug 1, 2020 12:42
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B-Nasty posted:Rollers covers are disposable. It's not worth the effort or water to try to wash it off. It's not hard to clean them if you've got one of those five in ones, and they leave a little bit better finish after the first use knocks down a little bit of lint. Only use them 3-5 times though
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Aug 5, 2020 03:29
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Cut the nozzle very fine, wear nitrile gloves (of you can get ahold of them), and use dish soap and water to wet your finger to smooth out the caulk line. It's always worked well for me for the water soluble stuff. For silicone in wet areas I lay down painters tape to get crisp, controlled lines
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Aug 8, 2020 20:08
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Should be straight forward. Just make sure you note what color wires are landed on which terminal on the back of the nest so you can match it to a new "dumb" thermostat.
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Aug 8, 2020 21:08
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B-Nasty posted:They are standardized, but not always correct. Best to always take a picture of how the old one is wired (or draw a diagram) before ripping the wires off. Unless there is a splice buried in the wall somewhere and they crossed the colors! This happened at my brother's last place
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Aug 9, 2020 02:18
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So Chicago area had a deracho storm blow through a couple of days ago, and a microburst exploded a big cottonwood tree in the back of my yard. Some pretty sizable limbs broke off, maybe half of the crown in all. Problem is, this cottonwood is surrounded by shorter pine trees, and the large branches are now all hung up in the adjacent trees. These limbs are probably 12-15" thick where they broke off, maybe 20' long. They look like they're wedged in place pretty solidly, but who knows when the pine trees will give and they'll fall. Is there any way to safely remove these limbs myself? Or is the only real option to call in a tree service/arborist?
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Aug 12, 2020 20:31
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full-blown industrial access control with 2fa credentials at every door and badge-in/badge-out
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Aug 31, 2020 17:04
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Are there any good statistics or testing for how long cedar lasts versus pressure treated?
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Sep 2, 2020 18:27
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clover is good though  bees love it and it puts nitrogen back into the soil
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Sep 18, 2020 16:25
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actionjackson posted:couple small kitchen cabinet questions - mine are framed cabinets with maple doors This is definitely possible, did it about two years ago. It requires a whole lot of careful measurements and re-measurements. It really helps if you have CAD and are at least somewhat proficient at it. I definitely would have messed up some of our measurements without fully modeling it all out. You also need to consider adding some additional face frame for an area where two doors are going to open back-to-back, sharing a face frame, if you're trying to keep doors the same size across a certain area. I could take a picture of what I'm talking about because I'm sure that description is clear as mud. Used these hinges (or similar) with the appropriate overlay for each door. https://www.cshardware.com/blumotion-compact-39c-1-1-2-overlay-face-frame-hinge.html For doors, we got simple raw wood shaker panels with maple frames and MDF inserts (since we were painting, not staining) from here: https://www.cabinetdoorsdepot.com/ Everything came out exactly as I dimensioned it down to the 1/16 or 1/8".
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Oct 2, 2020 15:55
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actionjackson posted:thanks, yeah do you have a picture of how your doors look and how the hinge looks inside? Here's an imgur album of some of my cabinets, including what they door/drawer face used to look like. I apology for the hideous tile floor. https://imgur.com/a/xIGHpkd That screw looks to me like it's holding that cabinet securely to the one next to it so they're nice and snug. Our friends did a (very small) Ikea kitchen a few years back and were happy with it. I think when were considering pulling all the cabinet boxes rather than just refacing, we were looking at maybe $2k for refacing/painting (with us doing the labor) versus more like $15k just for cabinets from Ikea, plus another $8-10k for countertops, a few thousand for install, and then while we're at it the flooring is horrible so...
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Oct 2, 2020 17:01
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actionjackson posted:Thanks! Yeah that is exactly what I'm looking for. My frame width on each side is 1.75" :/ 1.75" for mine, too! quote:Also before I even bother, does Ikea even work if your current setup doesn't conform to the exact dimensions of what you have currently? For example they have tall linen units that are 80" and 90", but mine is 87", and obviously only another unit of the exact same size would fit. You could probably go with the 80" cabinet in that case and then use a filler panel at the top? Like this but horizontal instead of vertical.  Ikea had a nice layout tool on their website you could play around with
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Oct 2, 2020 17:39
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Sorry if there was some confusion, I actually ended up needing everything from 3/4" overlay to 1-1/2" overlay depending on where the door was and what it was adjacent to. The "overlay" is "how much of the face of the frame is covered by the door". You're close, but it's not the width of the hinge itself but how far from the cabinet opening the edge of the door is when the door is closed. This page provides some good photos showing how to measure overlay: https://www.thehardwarehut.com/measure-overlays.php I started the whole process by measuring all of our cabinet boxes and building out a 3D model in Solidworks since I have access to that through work. From there, it was setting a consistent overlap gap between doors and the frame edge-to-door edge, 1/4" all around. That's the minimum recommended spacing to allow for clearances for the doors to open. Cabinet doors that butted hinge-to-hinge, like right in the middle of this pic, were 3/4" overlay since they were two doors splitting a single 1-3/4" frame face (2x 3/4" + 1/4" gap = 1.75")  The rest were the 1-1/2" overlay, 1.75" frame face - 1/4" reveal = 1.5" overlay I had a couple of other oddball sets of overlay too (45* corner cabinet, cabinet that had to clear door trim on perpendicular wall), but 1.5" or 3/4" covered the bulk of it.
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Oct 2, 2020 20:18
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Motronic posted:More important that what you put in there (just mix some quickcrete) is that you need to clean up the sides and put on a concrete adhesion promoter. What about for fixing a pitted concrete floor in a garage?
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Oct 3, 2020 19:09
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Hmm think I'll just deal with it being mildly annoying to sweep occasionally.
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Oct 3, 2020 20:32
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This is unfortunately not terribly uncommon
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Oct 3, 2020 23:29
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That would be the plan, yeah. Patch the pitting in advance of epoxying it all. I will probably find the time to do that in let's say 3-5 years lol.
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Oct 5, 2020 15:46
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Blakkout posted:On the plus side, it'll look better than ever when you're done. I will admit to having built gantt charts for my personal remodeling projects a couple of times
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Oct 5, 2020 16:25
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 13:22 |
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life is killing me posted:Thank you for this. I always paint before flooring when possible
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Oct 6, 2020 18:36
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