|
TheKub posted:My mom wanted me to replace her outlet in the bathroom with a GFCI. Her house is wired with aluminum. The guy at Lowe's said that I needed to convert the aluminum to copper before wiring the outlet. He sold me a few feet of 12-3 copper and some of these brass cylinders. He said all I have to do is twist the copper and aluminum together then use the wire tool to pinch the brass over the twist. After I got done doing that I wrapped the exposed areas with electrical tape. Well, what you did sounds correct, assuming the crimps are sound. It's a bit of overkill though, and probably a lot more expensive than using an aluminum-rated receptacle. I'm a little confused as to why he sold you 12-3 wire, unless they don't sell 12-2 by the foot, and you only really need 1 foot for the pigtails.
|
#
¿
Jan 30, 2008 04:39
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 07:42 |
|
|
TheKub posted:12-3 for black/white/ground. I need to do another outlet anyways so I got all the supplies I needed for both. Thanks for the info. Ok, that's the right wire, but it's not called 12-3. Technically, it's 12-2 w/ ground. The ground wire doesn't count as a conductor.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 31, 2008 02:10
|
|
|
Briantist posted:Thanks. I saw a hardwood floor thread, but I didn't think the laminate would apply since it's not strictly hardwood. I did find out from Lowes and Home Depot that I would need the moisture barrier plastic, even if the laminate flooring has padding because the padding isn't for moisture. Regarding your electrical question, yes, you can put an outlet above a drop ceiling. As long as the ceiling tiles can be removed, the area above is considered exposed. To get power to it, you may be able to tap into a nearby light fixture, or another outlet with a few exceptions. You can not tap into any outlet in a bathroom or kitchen, nor can you use an outlet dedicated to a single appliance (washer, dryer, sump pump, water heater, furnace, etc.)
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2008 14:35
|
|
|
I'm having an issue with my water heater. It's not getting as hot as it used to. Previously, with my faucets on full hot, the water would get hot enough that you couldn't stick your hand in it for more than a second without getting scalded. But now I can hold my hand under the water indefinitely with no ill effects. As much as I'd like to believe I have somehow obtained the super-human ability to touch hot objects, somehow I just don't think that happened. And what really confuses me is, this water heater is practically new. It just turned 3 last week. The heater is a Richmond Marathon electric 105 gallon polybutylene tank, so corrosion can't be an issue. I tried flushing the tank to check for sediment, but the water that came out was about 98% clear with only a few specs of dirt. The heater has no visible temperature gauge, although there is a Honeywell thermostatic mixing valve on the hot water output. I've tried turning that valve in both directions, and while it does make the water cooler in the one direction, it doesn't get any hotter even with the valve turned fully in the hot direction. Is it possible that one of the elements has burned out so quickly? Is there an easy way I can test this? Or is there some hidden temperature gauge that I haven't seen somewhere on the tank? The plumber who installed the tank didn't leave a manual, and the Richmond website is worthless for troubleshooting information. Thanks in advance for any help.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2008 15:33
|
|
|
NickNails posted:Is there a simple way to have one drill turn multiple bits at the same time? Something like the lovely ascii depiction below. The bit to bit spacing needs to be 0.375", which is fairly small in my opinion. It doesn't have to be 7 bits either, just anything more than one. It would be much easier to make a simple drilling jig. Take a small piece of hardboard and drill two holes at the spacing you want. Then get a short dowel the same diameter as your drill bit and put it in the first hole. Drill the first hole in your work piece where you want it, then stick the dowel in it, drill through the second hole. Move the jig to the new hole, rinse, repeat.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2008 19:28
|
|
|
Jet-Poop posted:My house was built in 1929 when insulation apparently meant throw another blanket on the bed. I'd like to do something about this. If you want to get to R-49, you can use blown-in cellulose or fiberglass to get to R-49, or you can lay one layer of R-30 in the joist bays, then another layer of R-19 on top, perpendicular to the joists. Otherwise, you can start with a layer of R-30, see how comfortable it makes the house, and think about another layer later. If you decide to go with blown-in, consider insulating the walls as well. Most big box stores will let you use an insulation blower for free if you buy the insulation, and installing it is as easy as waving around a 3" hose for an hour or two. Just don't forget the protection; goggles, respirator, pants and a long sleeve shirt, and gloves; especially if you use fiberglass.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 7, 2008 22:22
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Question time: Any recommendations on circular saws? I was considering getting the Black and Decker 14.4V cordless so it uses the same batteries as my drill but it seems to be weak and quite frankly I'm not going to be using it all that often. I've got a project coming up that will involve me cutting a shitload of 2x4's and 2x6's into short chunks (building some planters and benches) but beyond that it will probably spend months at a time not being used. Any recommendations for a solid but still cheap circular saw? Doesn't need to be cordless, I can deal with a cord when I need to use it. I've always been a Bosch man when it comes to power tools. They won't be the cheapest tools you can buy, but they will most likely be the last tools you ever need to buy. Go with the CS20, which you can usually find for around $130. If you want something a little cheaper, the CS10 is available for around $100. Be careful if you go cordless, a lot of cordless saws won't cut the full depth of a 2x4 in one pass. If you can't spend $100, some of the Craftsman saws at Sears are decent, and if all you're going to do is cut a bunch of 2x4s, you don't need a fancy saw.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2008 04:16
|
|
|
I'm in the process of finishing my basement, currently all the framing is up and yesterday I started with the drywall. I bought a Rotozip DR1 for zipping around the outlet boxes, doorways and stuff, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to get a clean cut around boxes. I've watched YouTube videos, read tutorials and practiced, but I just can't get it. Either I melt through the box (and I'm not using the dime-a-dozen blue Carlon boxes, I sprung for the heavy-duty SuperBlue variety), or the bit wanders. What voodoo magic do I have to do to make this work properly? I can handle the Rotozip freehand, measuring and marking for the cuts, but I want to be like the cool kids and cut the boxes in place. Or does it just take tons of practice? Thanks in advance.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 2, 2009 05:50
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Batteries might require attention every now & then but I'd rather that than require my power be on to detect a fire Put the 10 year batteries in the hard wired detectors, problem solved. Or, if you don't want to do wiring, there are some detectors that communicate wirelessly. If you do hard wire them, make sure you wire them into the same circuit as your master bedroom lighting. That way if the circuit blows you'll know right away. Also, add at least one carbon monoxide detector to each floor.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 7, 2009 16:45
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Bad advice - as far as I know it's code to have smoke detectors on their own circuit with nothing else. Sure would suck to have no smoke detectors because your hair dryer popped a breaker. Putting your smoke detectors on a dedicated circuit is a bad idea. Most, if not all, hard-wired detectors that have a battery back-up won't beep when the power goes out, they just revert to the battery until power is restored or the battery dies. Some do have an LED that goes out when the AC power is interrupted, but unless you're looking for it you probably won't notice it's gone. They will only start beeping once the battery gets low. Wire them with a *lighting* circuit that you use frequently (bedroom, hallway, kitchen, etc.), and you won't have to worry about a blow dryer tripping the breaker, and will notice right away if the circuit does trip. The power requirements of each detector are minuscule, and won't affect the lights on the circuit. I have also heard of some people wiring them with a furnace circuit or some other low use breaker, which is passable; it wouldn't take too long to notice your house getting cold or hot, but it's still not as immediate as a lighting circuit.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2009 03:00
|
|
|
I'm having some annoying problems with my shower valve. It's a 4 year old Kohler shower/tub valve (not sure of the exact model, it's a basic contractor grade model installed by the builder), and it's not getting as hot as it used to. The temperature problem is limited to the shower, the rest of the fixtures in my house get very hot, including a sink that tees off the same hot water line that feeds the shower. When my wife and I first bought the house, the shower was nice and hot. You only had to turn the valve up about 3/4 of the way to get a nice, comfortable temp. But in the past couple months, it's gotten cooler and cooler, to the point where even at full blast, it's barely lukewarm. I pulled the handle off and tried both the small temp adjustment with the set screw, then removing the o-ring and turning the entire limiter. That helped briefly, maybe for a week, but now it's cooling off again. I'm going to try turning the limiter again, but I'm guessing it won't do any good. Is there something else in these Kohler valves that can cause them to run cold? I have plenty of water pressure throughout the house, and none of the screens on my faucets have large amounts of sediment in them. I'm really confused, and getting annoyed. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2009 02:13
|
|
|
Ivan Drago posted:That was actually my first thought and it's a good idea, I just never see them out and about. The ones on either side of us have unfortunately both died in the last six months or so (many elderly people on my block), and the ones across the street are rarely home. I've made it a point to ask them next time I see them, but in the meantime I thought I could throw something down on the lawn to keep it in check. I may just call TruGreen and have them spray. Seems like what most people would do. I would avoid TruGreen like the plague. I've heard nothing but bad things about them; using the incorrect mix of chemicals for the lawn, spraying way too much, over-charging, ignoring requests to cancel service, etc. If you're dead set on a lawn service, look for a local company instead (and make sure they're not a subsidiary of TruGreen). Otherwise, call your local university extension office, they should be able to provide you with some good advice that's specific to your area. Buy a soil test kit, or bring a soil sample to a garden center that will test it for you, to find out the composition of your soil, and what, if any, amendments it needs to grow properly. Once you get rid of the weeds, you'll most likely have to do some over seeding to get new grass to grow. A good carpet of grass is the best weed prevention.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 28, 2009 15:24
|
|
|
Orgasmo posted:My garage door is making a horrendous noise when lowered, at the point where the wheels touch the metal rail, particularly at the curve where it goes from horizontal to vertical (I imagine this is where most of the load is as the door closes). I resisted the urge to grab the blue and yellow can. What lubricant is suggested for this type of job, and how much of it should be applied? I do most of my woodwork in the garage; a lubricant that does not attract dust would be ideal. I used to sell garage doors, the manufacturer recommended a spray can of lithium grease for lubricating the rails *as long as you have metal rollers*. If you have nylon rollers, you shouldn't use any lubricant. Before you lube anything up, take a good look at the track. Make sure both tracks are parallel with one another, and are completely plumb and level. Check all the rollers, make sure they're intact and not deformed in any way. If the door is light enough, lift it up until it's completely horizontal (or as far up as you can get it), put a locking pliers on the track so it can't fall back down, then try lifting up at each hinge and make sure the wheels spin freely. There's always a chance the bearings went out in one of the rollers, and no amount of grease in the world can fix that. Lastly, check all the nuts and bolts on the tracks, make sure everything is tight. Once you've checked all these things, spray a light spray of grease on the U shaped portion of the track along the entire horizontal and vertical section of track. Run the door up and down a few times to distribute the grease, and hopefully the noise will be gone. While you're working on your door, you may want to lube the springs as well. Take a rag, put a bit of motor oil on it, and rub it along the length of the spring. If you have tension springs (the kind on cables on the sides of the door), rub the oil while the door is up. If you have a torsion spring (spring is along the top of the door on a long bar), rub the oil while the door is closed. Oh yeah, before you put any lube on the track, wipe it down with a rag first, to remove any foreign matter. Since you've come this far, you might as well clean the rubber seal from the bottom of the door too.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2009 01:10
|
|
|
ease posted:As a previous garage door salesman, do you advise I try to add more resistance to my doors via the springs so I can lift them a bit easier? One is obviously using more spring than the other and I'd like to even them up, and maybe just reduce their weight a tad bit more. Test the door first to see if it really needs to be adjusted. The door should lift pretty easily, and it should balance at the half-way point without moving. If it balances there, you really can't adjust it any more. Just like too little tension makes the door hard to open, too much tension will make the door harder to close. If you have an automatic opener, either one of these conditions will shorten the life of the opener. If the door is out of balance, you can adjust it. Assuming you have a torsion spring, you can adjust it with a set of winding bars, a wrench (to loosen and tighten the set screws), and a stable ladder. Working on the springs can be dangerous, and I'm guessing there was probably one Darwin award winner that was decapitated by a garage door spring, but as long as you work carefully you'll be OK. At the end of the spring you'll see a star shaped thing with four holes (for the winding bars) and a set screw. Look at the spring and you'll see which way it's wound, place one of your winding bars in the hole that's horizontal (make sure it's completely seated in the hole), get a tight grip, then loosen the set screw. Turn the spring with the winding bar until you can get the second bar in the next hole. Assuming the spring was tensioned properly when the door was installed, you shouldn't need to turn it more than 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. Tighten the set screw once you've adjusted the spring, then remove the winding bars. If your door has two springs, repeat the same steps for the other spring, winding it the same amount as the first spring. Test the door again, and repeat if necessary. Oh yeah, and if the door starts lifting when you turn the springs, stop and back it off a 1/4 turn. Those instructions only apply if you have a torsion spring, which can be micro adjusted. Tension springs can't really be adjusted, but you can replace them if they're getting worn out. If you have tension springs, there should be a color painted on one end, which tells you the weight capacity of the spring (or springs, if you have a double door/extra heavy door). If the color has worn off, you'll have to weigh the door. Lift the door as high as it will go, use a locking pliers to hold it in place, then unhook the springs from both sides of the door (there should be S hooks at the top of the door tracks that you can unhook to release the springs). Get a bathroom scale and place it at the center of the door opening, then release the pliers and lower the door *gently* on the scale to weigh it. If you have a double door, or a wooden door, or any door that has double springs on both sides, get someone to help you lower it, and you may need to get two bathroom scales to get the total weight. Round the weight up to the neareast 10 pound mark, and that's what springs you need to get. You need springs that match the weight of your door on each side. If you have a double spring, get the two closest together that add up to the weight (example, if your door weighs 250 lbs, get 120 and 130 lb springs, rather than 100 and 150 or 110 and 140). Once you get the springs you need, raise the door again, clamp it, and then you can just replace the springs. Unless your old cables and hooks are rusty, you can usually re-use them with the new springs. Just remove the old springs from the hooks (clip the safety cable that runs through the spring), and install the new ones in the same position. Don't forget to hook up the new safety cable (your springs did come with safety cables, didn't they?) Once the springs are secure, remove the clamps and test the door. Tension springs won't necessarily balance right in the middle of the opening, but there should be a balance point somewhere close to the middle.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2009 04:23
|
|
|
ease posted:I thought you could make adjustments by shortening or lengthening the cable that attaches to the door. The door doesn't rest half way at all. It will stay up, but if you move it towards being down more than 1', it just slams down. I do have the safety cables. Is the door still the same as it was from the factory, or did you add insulation to it after it was installed, or a window panel or anything else like that? Those foam insulation kits may not seem very heavy, but they can add enough weight to take a door out of balance. If you did add anything, weigh the door like I explained above and you may have to change a size in springs. Even if you didn't add anything, tension springs wear out over time. If the door is more than 10 years old, the springs should be replaced. As far as the cables go, tension spring cables are usually just long enough to go from the bottom of the door, up to the pulley at the top of the track, through the pulley on the spring, and back to the track at the top of the door. Lift the door to its full upright position and take a look at the springs. The coils should be tightly wound with no gaps between coils, and the spring(s) should be taught with barely any sag. If the springs are tight, but they sag considerably, you may be able to tighten the cable a bit. But if there are any gaps between the coils, adjusting the cables won't solve the problem, and will shorten the life of the springs. If you do have to replace the springs, replace them all at once, and take a look at the pulleys and cables while you're at it.
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2009 15:53
|
|
|
Elston Gunn posted:Does anyone know where I can find parts like the tubing used for the frame of this component rack? If you want something cheap, you can get metal conduit from your local electrical supply store. It won't be as shiny as that, but a can or two of silver spray paint followed by a clear gloss coat will take care of that. I used those exact ingredients, along with 2'x2' sections of 3/4" MDF and long threaded rods to make an entertainment tower similar to that a few years back. Another option that would already be polished, but not quite as heavy duty, is a closet rod from a home center. They typically come in 4, 6 or 8 foot lengths. A third option, polished and heavy duty, is a stainless steel bar rail. Lido designs is one company that makes the bar rail, and I'm sure there are others out there as well. I found the Lido rail in the millwork department of my local Menards, after I already cut and painted all the conduit.
|
|
#
¿
May 31, 2009 22:31
|
|
|
laymil posted:It looks like there's a hairline crack at the bottom of my basement wall. During heavy rain we end up with a small puddle due to this, so I'd like to patch it. Someone had tried to patch it in the distant past, but whatever they used is flaking off of the wall now. Any recommendations on a product that will last? Get a container of hydraulic cement (may also be known as instant water-stop or hydraulic water-stop). It expands as it dries, filling in the crack and stopping the leak. First, you have to do a little prep-work. Get a small cold chisel and clean out the crack, expanding it slightly in a dovetail fashion (smaller outside, angling larger inside the wall). Clean out the crack, vacuuming out as much dust and debris as you can. Set up a drop cloth under the wall to catch any cement that may fall out. Once all the prep-work is done, mix the cement according to the instructions on the package. Now spread it in the crack evenly, pushing it as far inside the wall as you can get it. Work fast though, because you'll only get 10-15 minutes of working time before it starts to set.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 6, 2009 01:22
|
|
|
Pooperscooper posted:Some our furniture has those and it nice that you can stop them from rocking but I was making a tall dresser a few days ago and the thing had a pretty major rock and I was tempted to loosen everything up while it was standing then tighten it but with how rocky and uneven our floor is I don't know if it would make it worse or not. I can use the levelers on the bottom of the legs but it still shouldn't need to have that much of an adjustment. Maybe I had two bad spots on the floor when I was building and when I put it out for display. Why not build a torsion box table or platform and level that? That way you'll always have a level surface to work on.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 13, 2009 20:37
|
|
|
A Child's Letter posted:I'm not sure if this post goes here or not, but it's worth a shot, I guess. None of the wiring in that area is for the remote receiver. The receiver is in the dome attached to the ceiling. Most Hunter fans have a trim ring that hides two or 3 screws equally spaced around the dome (the thin part right next to the ceiling where the dome juts out). The trim ring sometimes turns and locks, and sometimes just snap-locks. Try turning it counter-clockwise and pulling it down. Above one of the screws you just revealed there may be a small notch with a tab sticking through. Get a second person to hold the fan from below while you remove the screws. If your dome has the notch and tab, it will hinge down on that tab, hopefully revealing a large metal loop on the ceiling bracket, and a matching hook on the fan's downrod. Hook the fan to this loop and your helper can let go for a while. If you don't have a notch, you'll most likely reveal a ball and socket type bracket holding the fan to the ceiling. Either way, once you've removed the dome, you should see the receiver, a white box about the size of a bar of soap, with a few wires sticking out. If you want to connect the fan directly to the house, just remove all the wire nuts from the receiver, and reconnect both fan and light hots to the incoming hot, and do the same with the neutrals. While you're up there, take a look inside the fan box in the ceiling to see if you can see a red wire that's not connected to anything. If you're lucky, the person who did the wiring ran 3 conductor wire to the box, and you can control the fan and light separately from the switch. If that's the case, remove the cover plate from the wall switch that controls the fan to verify that there's a matching red wire in there as well. Then, you can replace the single switch with a dual fan/light wall control and you won't have to rely on the pull-chains to control speed and light.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 13, 2009 06:02
|
|
|
bradzilla posted:Going to be building a mount for a satellite dish today, I live in apartment and cant mount anywhere on the building, not even clamp it to the railing. Basically mixing concrete in a bucket and putting a piece of steel fence post in. I'm at a loss as to how to keep the post upright and level while the concrete cures for the next day or so. Basically what should I use to stabilize the pole while the conrete cures, so it doesnt move around and not be level? If you just got a basic pre-mixed concrete, it should have enough viscosity to keep the post plumb and level once you adjust it, but if you want to be extra careful, drill 3 holes equally spaced around the rim of the bucket, just above the top of the concrete so they will let water drain in the future, then thread a string through each hole, wrap it around the post, and tie it tight. Once you have all 3 ropes tied, it shouldn't go anywhere. As for mixing the concrete, it's easiest to mix in a wheel-barrow with a hoe. If that's not available, check your home center for a concrete mixing bag, or a mixing barrel. The bag is your best bet, since it'll be cheap and you can throw it away once you're done. Once the concrete is mixed and poured in the bucket, form a mound around the pole, so any water will drain to the sides and go out the holes you drilled.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 13, 2009 16:53
|
|
|
Brown Moses posted:I've checked it with a spirit level and it's a bit uneven, but now when I adjust the front legs the one of the back legs is off the ground. Does it have to be perfectly level, or can it be a few millimetres out on one side? It looks like I'll have to pull the whole thing out and put something under one of the back legs if it needs to be perfectly level. Double-check the back legs before you try to adjust them. A lot of washers have self-adjusting back legs. Tip the machine forward onto its front legs, lifting the back legs 4-6 inches off the ground, and when you set it back down, they should adjust automatically to level. If they're stuck, give them a couple light taps with a hammer and they should pop out. Once the back legs are adjusted, twist the front legs up or down to get it perfectly plumb and level, then tighten the lock nuts so the legs don't go out of level again.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 23, 2009 20:14
|
|
|
Does anyone know the name of the company that makes the combination tubular skylight and exhaust fan that was featured on DIY Network's Bathtastic a few weeks back? It had an oval-shaped trim in the bathroom that housed the light and vent. Or, does anyone know of a company that makes a combo skylight/vent that has an optional light kit for evening light, and can dim the natural light when necessary?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2009 05:07
|
|
|
Dragyn posted:Funny how all the home heating questions show up in October. I don't have radiant heat in my house, but I remember seeing a segment on Ask This Old House about a situation identical to yours. Basically, the air in the pressure tank near the boiler has dissolved into the water in your lines, so there's not enough water in the lines any more. What you need to do is drain the lines, replace the pressure tank with a bladder-style tank, then refill the lines. I can't find the article on their website right now, but that's all you should have to do.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2009 13:13
|
|
|
I'm almost to the point of installing engineered hardwood floors in my basement, but I'm a bit puzzled on what to do with a cleanout hole in the floor. This is what I'm dealing with:  With its proximity to the exterior wall, I'm guessing it may be the cleanout for the interior drain tile, but I'm not sure. I don't want to open it in case it's a sewer cleanout. Anyway, what I'm wondering is, is there some sort of decorative cover out there I can use to cover this above the flooring? Lord Google isn't giving me any worthy results, and a look around the local home center's plumbing department yielded no answers either. I have to imagine there's something out there for my situation, other than the cracked bright red plastic cover they had covering it. Preferably something in a chrome finish, low profile, heavy-duty enough to stand up to people walking on it, and removable in case I ever do have to open the cleanout. The closest thing I've found so far is a thin-gauge bowl shaped plate thing with a hole in the center for a screw, and a bar wider than the plate for holding it in place via compression. That would work, but it was way too thin, it would never stand up to foot traffic. I do like the concept though...if I could find a plate that's heavy-duty enough, I could drill a hole in the square block on the cleanout plug, glue in a threaded insert, and screw the plate directly into the plug. The other idea I had was like those chrome gas caps you see on some cars, with an outer ring that's screwed in place and a removable center disc. So yeah...any idea where I can find something like that, or something else that will work? Thanks in advance.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2009 03:40
|
|
|
Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What about a small trap door? It could either be hinged or just a removable panel. Oooh...I like that idea...maybe cut some hi-density foam to cover the plug and make it flush with the concrete, then just cut the piece(s) of flooring around it. Add a couple of rare earth magnets to make sure it stays put, and you probably won't even notice it unless you look right at it. Thanks for the idea.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2009 03:59
|
|
|
Does the dryer only vent out the back, or could you vent it out the side instead? When I redid my laundry room a couple weeks back, I changed my dryer to vent out the side so I could tuck it in closer to the wall. Look for a 4" hole on the side at the same height as the back vent. All you have to do is pop it out, get a 4" elbow, and re-route the duct inside the dryer. If you're lucky, it will have a removable back panel that allows you to get inside easier to do the work.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 20, 2010 06:38
|
|
|
Has anyone heard of a product that's two sheets of drywall with steel laminated between them? I had a contractor in today looking for this product for a client of his. He says they saw it on some TV show, but couldn't say which one. I've seen sound deadening rock before with a polymer sheet in the middle, but they swear it was metal. The reason they want it is for security purposes, their business was recently broken into by thieves who came in to the adjacent suite through an unlocked door, then smashed through the drywall in the common wall. They want to repair it with something that will deter a future break in. I don't know if the polymer rock will work in this way. My alternate suggestion was to put up a layer of hardware cloth before the drywall, but I don't know how well this would work with any electrical work in the wall. Any suggestions?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2010 06:44
|
|
|
I like the look of that CoreGuard stuff, but I think they may have come up with an even simpler solution. They're going to glue & screw 2 layers of 1/2" plywood in alternating directions, then put the 1/2" sheetrock on top of it for the finished surface. We mocked up an 8' wall section like this, and they beat on it with a sledge hammer for a few minutes with no visible damage on the interior. Price-wise, it's not a whole lot cheaper than the polymer rock we looked at, but I can't imagine the sheetrock would be tougher. And as an added bonus, they can hang stuff anywhere on the wall.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 5, 2010 04:35
|
|
|
Philthy posted:Window question time! The window 'guides' on a few windows seem to have broke from opening them too hard and breaking against the stopper, while others are missing the thumb lever like in this picture (the pointy end that pokes out is what is missing on a few other windows), it is spring loaded: If you haven't found latches yet, I have a couple suggestions. First, the proper name for the part you're looking for is a pivot latch. The sticker you posted would be useful to the manufacturer for warranty purposes, but unfortunately it doesn't say who made it. There should be another sticker somewhere on the window, probably in gold or silver foil, that will have the manufacturer name or code printed on it (excuse the lovely cellphone pic, the wife took my good camera). If you can find that sticker, you can contact the manufacturer for a replacement, or at least find out from them who sells replacement parts for their windows. Otherwise, you can get a universal replacement that would screw on top of the sash (see here for examples), as long as you don't mind seeing those latches on top of the sash. You'd just have to find one that fits over the existing latch.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2010 18:23
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:I recently bought this place. It has a 30 year old (original) aluminum sliding glass door. Aside from my air conditioning getting out, bugs are getting in. Short of buying a new door, how do I seal this up? Look for a roll of self-adhesive weatherstripping at your local hardware store.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 5, 2010 21:26
|
|
|
Quick question. I'm about to mix concrete to pour the pan for a shower stall in my basement. I have a few bags of sand mix concrete that I was going to use, but they're a little over a year old. I remember reading somewhere that as concrete mix gets older, it loses its strength. Will my ~15 month old mix still be good, or am I better off buying new bags? They've been sitting in my unheated garage the entire time on the floor if that makes any difference. I'd just buy new mix to be on the safe side, but I'm without a vehicle today, and I'd like to pour it this afternoon.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 6, 2010 20:10
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Just the opposite, in fact. If you leave concrete mix to sit around, it will start to absorb humidity from the air and start curing. So if it's still powder and not a solid block, I should be fine, right? I poured a bag into my mixing tub and it's still all powder, no large clumps or anything. I guess I'll just use it and hope for the best. And then if it fails I'll just blame my wife for telling me the Kerdi system is too expensive.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 7, 2010 01:11
|
|
|
Well, everything seems to be OK with the concrete. It's still a little damp on the surface, but otherwise it feels firm. The only issue I had was that the recommended water/concrete ratio made a very dry mix which was hard to work, but I got it moved around eventually. Now I just have to wait for the boss to decide how she wants the tile laid out.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 7, 2010 16:57
|
|
|
Is anyone here familiar with cordless tool repair? Specifically, is it possible to repair the variable speed trigger from my Bosch 23618 impact driver? It no longer works with the variable speeds, it just goes from nothing to full on. I did find a site where I can just order a new switch, but if it's a simple repair, I'd rather try that first.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2010 17:11
|
|
|
LeeJam posted:Hi all, What you have there looks like a horizontal router table. You are correct that it is used for woodworking. I've seen it used a lot for hollowing out mortises. Basically, you clamp your stock to the table, adjust the height with that wheel below, then you can move it back and forth, in and out with the blue levers.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 9, 2010 17:05
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I have a ton of copper wire around 10 gauge to strip for copper scrap. Anyone know of a good way to strip it. Right now I have been using a razor to fillet the jacket off of the wire. I made something for my father-in-law that strips wire easily. Basically, it was a block of wood, with holes drilled that matched the diameter of common insulated wire gauges, with a saw kerf through each hole that held a razor blade. Here's a basic drawing:  Click here to view the full image What you do is pick the right size hole, put a razor blade in just deep enough to slice through the insulation, and clamp it in place. Then, clamp the whole block to a sturdy table or something that won't move. Feed the wire through a few inches by hand, when you have a foot or so through the block, peel away the insulation. Then, just keep pulling and separating. I envisioned a fancier device with a metal block that won't wear out over time, and a crank and two spools, one for the wire and the other for the insulation, but haven't gotten around to building it yet. Maybe with copper prices as high as they are I'll take another look at this. Oh yeah, if you decide to build something like this, make sure that you only put the very corner of the razor in the slot. The less contact between razor and insulation, the easier it is to push/pull through the holes.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2011 05:52
|
|
|
zombie duck v2.0 posted:My fiance's father recently painted our nursery and we think he put the paint on too thick, because in the corners, the paint dripped down and ended up drying in big gobs. Use a scraper to get off the big globs, then sand it to make it smooth with the rest of the wall. Re-prime the area, then paint again. If the paint is new enough, you might not have to repaint the entire wall.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 14, 2011 17:29
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 07:42 |
|
|
Lt Moose posted:Quick question- would I be able to put 2 1-gang plantes side by side in a 2 gang wall plate? You can get the HDMI/component/toslink plate, and one of these, and a standard 2-gang decora plate.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2011 01:17
|
|