|
Those GE Reveal or whatever the gently caress those light blue bulbs are good. You want a 'warm' light, something with a high color temp. I think. Cold lights, like florescent, light everything harshly. If it's your property, you could always cut holes in the ceiling and put in recessed lighting. Not advisable for dorm rooms, barracks, or your parents' house, though.
|
#
¿
Aug 13, 2008 19:15
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 8, 2024 14:13 |
|
|
quadreb posted:Thanks for this! I'll be posting in a thread here soon with pictures (maybe video). I still need to find some sutures, though. Bend a small sewing needle into a curve, and use 100% synthetic thread, keep all of it in rubbing alcohol until you go to sew yourself up. I'd had to stitch a few dumbass wounds shut myself...have something to bite on in your mouth.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 20, 2008 16:44
|
|
|
Bondage posted:Not much you can do. That's soldered copper tubing so you have to tear open the wall to re-solder the line. Go get a sledge hammer and bust a hole in the wall. gently caress that noise, now's the time to install a tub surround. You're probably going to wind up having to buy a whole loving kit anyway, they start at less than $100, just install a nice tub surround in. They're really easy to install. Now might be a good time to look into cutting some type of access panel into the wall, too. Check those copper pipes, that poo poo doesn't tend to come unsoldered (unless your water heater's putting out 700°F)...you may have to replace lot of pipe. If you can bend the pipe with your bare hands easily, and there's lots of verdigris, you're going to have to replace it. I recommend switching to CPVC, just because it's easier to work with and you're less likely to burn your house down replacing a joint.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2008 03:59
|
|
|
wigtrade.cc posted:My dad tried this when I was at work and didn't turn off the fuse/switch and shorted out the upstairs so now we need an electrician so make sure all power is off when you try that Why the hell would you need an electrician to flip a breaker or replace a fuse?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2008 15:49
|
|
|
wigtrade.cc posted:poo poo shorted out faulty wiring found cluster gently caress of industrial shortcuts found by that potato drat! Well, I guess in hindsight, it was a good thing...at least you found out via spud as opposed to 3am smoke detector. Jesus Christ, you might wanna just pull new wire.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2008 15:21
|
|
|
Nubile Hillock posted:I never thought of using bbq igniters, thanks! I'm not sure your BBQ ignitor will have enough spark to ignite your flamethrower. You'll probably need a propane pilot light. As for pumps, why not snaffle an in-tank fuel pump from a junkyard? You'd need to get one from a fairly large engine, though, and even that might not be enough for a decent amount of range. Add a 12-volt car battery to your backpack and you're ready to immolate yourself and your neighbors! Also, you'll need a bypass valve unless you want to have a really weak stream when you pull the trigger, waiting for it to build up pressure. Maybe add a one-way valve, a pressurized bypass, and a small pressure tank? How much pressure can a fuel pump actually put out? poo poo, I think I know what this weekend's project will be. Sapper fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Nov 20, 2008 |
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2008 15:44
|
|
|
Nubile Hillock posted:The project is on a much smaller scale. I'm thinking having a small diameter pipe, some sort of blowing mechanism at one end and the fuel getting pumped in at some point down the pipe, the bbq lighter at the opening. I want to keep this as small as possible. The pump/igniter would both be microprocessor controlled. I'm trying to go for more of a fireball effect, and not so much a flamethrower. The in-tank models are generally in the fuel tank, bolted in from above. You can sometimes get to them without dropping the gas tank, Volkswagons, for example, have an access hatch. Ford Probes, on the other hand, don't. Protip: Smoke a cigarette while you're pulling it out, you'll look cooler.  (yes, I've done that...and then dropped the lit cigarette into the fuel tank. No worries)
|
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2008 21:29
|
|
|
I've only seen large diameter T&P valves in stores, but I've used equipment with smaller ones. Google could probably help, I'm too lazy right now. Edited: I don't feel like getting a bullshit ban, this poo poo costs money Sapper fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Nov 22, 2008 |
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2008 05:22
|
|
|
Maybe the next valve up the hot water line is getting clogged with sediment? There's most likely a set of shutoff valves right behind your actual faucet fixture, odds are the hot water valve in that is getting clogged. Other than that, maybe check the Kohler fixture that the valve assembly sits in, the feed pipe on the hot water side could be cruddy? Bathtub fixtures seem to crud up first, in my experience, probably because they strike the balance of sitting still to let crud settle, and being opened often enough to bring fresh crud in. Greasy, goat-rear end-smelling types never have plumbing problems, QED.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2009 04:02
|
|
|
I've never heard that. What the gently caress does the fence have to do with it, unless they want you to use a sled.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2009 15:15
|
|
|
You probably have something like a Bic pen or a toothbrush stuck in pipes of the toilet; you might try snaking it instead of replacing it. Or the tank hardware might be old and not letting a good flow when the flapper is lifted. Maybe. Depends on what you wanna do, it's probably cheaper to fix it. You definitely want to pull it off and replace that wax ring, though. Unless you're on a concrete floor, the water leaking out that you don't see is loving up your subfloor and the joists below. Nothing like straining to coax out a growler and suddenly having the floor collapse beneath you.
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2009 04:17
|
|
|
I've never had much luck with drain cleaner...better to just by a short, cheap snake, and run it through the pipes a few times. Rotty poo poo and hair build up in sink drains over time; if you've ever pulled the stopper out of your bathroom sink and looked down there, or pulled the p-trap, you'll know. If there wasn't so many outlets in this run, I'd say get one of those power snakes that you hook a garden hose to, and blast water down the pipe at decent pressure, but I don't know how effective that would be (I'm picturing a poo poo fountain shooting out of the other sink). STFU Pumpkinhead posted:Are the fittings that attach a disposal to a sink universal? I can't remove the combination of rings and the collar that suspends the unit from the current sink, but would like to avoid buying another disposal just for the sink fittings themselves. I know I've seen disposal installation kits at Home Depot & Lowe's, what are the chances these will have all the guts I need to install on the new sink? Have you tried getting a flathead screwdriver/chisel on to one of grips on the collar at a right angle, and tapping it with a hammer? Those things tend to lock into place pretty often, you wind up having to break it loose with a hammer before it'll turn freely. Hell, just take the old sink out, disposal and all, flip the bitch over in the yard and tap the offending fittings with a hammer...much easier than trying to work under the counter. You shouldn't have any problems disconnecting the drain pipe and the electrical feed to the disposal. Sapper fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jul 14, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2009 20:42
|
|
|
Blowupologist posted:Well it depends on what kind of noise it makes and where it's coming from. It could be anything from a bad part to a loose mount. Maybe you could pull the fridge out and see where the noise is coming from? Yup, slide that sucker out and leave the door open long enough to kick the compressor on. It's most likely a loose part if it's rattling. If it's squealing, it's either a bearing that needs lubed, or a bearing that's failing. Take your vacuum cleaner and suck all the dust out of there, too--you'll make the cooling more efficient and save money. Usually it's the vibrations from the compressor motor running through the frame and making a loose grille rattle.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2009 19:38
|
|
|
spe posted:If theres wires right next to the bath/shower that are running up and down the wall can I sue my landlord? (UK) Doubtful. If there were unprotected junction boxes or fixtures (like that idiot who had a standard wall switch in his shower) then maybe. Wires themselves aren't even dangerous, as long as the sheathing is intact, but they should be stapled down every ~3ft to keep idiots from tugging on them and damaging the connections at the other end. Why would you want to sue your landlord, anyway? Looking to cash in and make an easy buck? I assume the wires were there when you rented the place initially.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2009 15:38
|
|
|
Ahz posted:I have a window screen that is mounted externally with a pressure fit to the window frame. When the wind gets strong enough, the screen will blow off the window to the ground 3 stories below. This has happened maybe 4 times in 3 years so it's not like the frame is very loose, but I'd like a way to keep the screen in there for good. I was thinking clips but I can't get to the window from the outside and I cannot really attach anything internally that wouldn't get in the way of the sliding window. Are you sure that the screen itself didn't have swivel-sliding tabs in the lower sides at one time, that have since fallen out? I've seen the tabs built into the screen, and ones built into the frame itself that pivoted. Possibly these are missing, and if so, you can get a replacement cheap at Lowes, or even maybe install new swivel ones in the windowframe yourself.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2009 21:06
|
|
|
politicorific posted:looks like I burned out my father's 26 gallon central pneumatic air compressor today while using an hvlp sprayer. The thing was really hot when I unplugged it. Take it apart, and pull the belt off. It could be that the compressor bellows are frozen, not the motor. You may have to tear it apart and lube it. If the motor burnt out, you'd probably be able to smell it. A little Marvel Mystery Oil in the right places and you should be good to go.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 3, 2009 16:32
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 8, 2024 14:13 |
|
|
politicorific posted:Yeah, it might be hosed...all depends on if those windings test out okay. The caps should be an easy replacement, at least. Could the field brushes be the problem? If they get worn out, you can probably get replacements, or order a box of dirt cheap carbon electrodes from American Science and Surplus, and cut new ones with a hacksaw (I fabbed up new brushes for my 1963 Craftsman drill using those cheap electrodes).
|
|
#
¿
Aug 7, 2009 16:31
|
|
