|
I'm trying to remove a couple of bathroom sinks because one is rusted through and it would look stupid to have 2 different sinks in the same bathroom. My problem is that they are both under mounted sinks with tile on top and a wood bracket below keeping them in place, so the sink is essentially sandwiched between the 2 layers. How would I go about removing the sink to replace it and would it make more sense to go with another under mount or with a drop in?
|
#
¿
Apr 14, 2010 05:10
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 20, 2024 10:30 |
|
|
What we ended up doing is we dremeled out the grout from around the tile surrounding the sink then removed the caulking and cement around the lip of the sink then the tiles came up. We broke 2 in the process but I have 10 additional tiles in the garage from when the work was originally done back in the late 70's. We detached the pipe and water lines then pulled the sinks out through the top. Tonight we'll set and regrout the tile, let it set and we're going to put self rimming sinks in tomorrow night incase we need to do this again in the next 20-30 years. Also up on the agenda for the same house is pulling up linoleum in a bathroom, tiling the floor, using the sawzall on some bad spots of drywall and replacing with drywall/tape and repainting, fixing some 4ft light fixtures in the garage. The house I'm actually living in.. Well, don't even get me started, between the 2 houses there could have been a how to fix everything in the house yourself megathread.. 
|
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2010 17:49
|
|
|
Ahz posted:A serrated knife will do, but hey have fun with that. A serrated knife for a 4x2 ft section (freezer decided to become 1 with the wall) and a few 3x1 ft sections (from removed shelving units) you say? Yeah, that sounds like great fun.. I used the sawzall and and it's already done and patched tonight. Tomorrow on to installing the sinks since tonight was putting the tile back in place so I gotta wait for the grout to dry.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2010 06:20
|
|
|
Richard Noggin posted:I have a half bath that we need to repaint, but we'll need to change the flooring. The current flooring is vinyl (not peel-and-stick squares, but actual sheet vinyl). Can I cheat and lay peel-and-stick over what's already there, or do I really have to remove it first? If it's the latter, what's the best way to remove it? What you'll want to do is peel up the vinyl if it's possible. If not, get a tool called a mutt (google mutt tool). Then once you get to the adhesive layer, get an adhesive remover from home depot, once it's soft enough, just scrape the poo poo out of it with a mutt or other similar tool. In any case, make sure it's smooth. Then you'll be ready for whatever type of flooring you want to put in, unless it's tile in which case you'll need to put a layer of hardybacker down then float it before you start the tiling process.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2010 15:34
|
|
|
^^^ Go to Home Depot and get a product called Kilz odorless aerosol. Spray it on, wait an hour, then spray it on again to make sure you get a good coat of it. The stain shouldn't come through after that. If you're extra anal about it, get some tsp first, rub down the area, wait until it's dry then spray it with Kilz.Richard Noggin posted:OK, what if it's manufacturer approved? You can try it, but it's always better to start with a bare surface rather than putting new stuff down on top of old because you never know about the original adhesive or how long it's been there or is going to last. keykey fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Apr 16, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Apr 16, 2010 16:34
|
|
|
jackpot posted:I know this is probably unanswerable, but my shower is a piece of poo poo and I'm looking at getting it replaced (the shower walls are tiled, and they leak, and the tub is an old and ugly piece of poo poo). So it'll basically involve a new tub, tearing out the tile and putting up one of those plastic three-walled thingers, and installation. Anyone want to hazard a guess what this might run me? If location matters it's Richmond, VA. I know it's 3 days later, but we just did this exact job in my grandmas house. Material cost would be roughly $1000 for shower, doors, misc hardware. If you're not going to do it yourself, you'll need to factor in labor which I'm not sure what is going to run, it really just depends on who you get to do the work for you. Another option, if you want to cut cost is to see if you have a habitat for humanity re-store near by, they usually have a lot of extra materials there, some new, some used. Our local Home Depot was selling the 3 wall shower for around $750 but we ended up finding a new one at the re-store for $200 and we did the labor ourselves so the cost ended up being roughly $500 because we got the rest of the hardware at Home Depot.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 22, 2010 19:30
|
|
|
I don't remember who asked a while ago but they were installing a new fan in a house with 2 wire electrical. I just installed another fan in my house last night and the wiring from the house into the fan is this: white - white black&blue - black green wire on fan connects to green wire on bracket that comes with fan.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2010 15:55
|
|
|
a handful of dust posted:I'm installing a 4x4 fence post along the edge of a concrete patio. I got a couple of these things to anchor the posts: Since the slab is sloped, you'll need to bend the part of the metal bracket to the angle of the edges of the post, you can try with some vice grips, but you'll have better luck with a table mounted vice. Also, if it isn't already done, you'll need to cut through the concrete straight down to make sure your hole/bracket line up once the tabs are bent to the angle you need. edit: You're using pressure treated 4x4s aren't you? keykey fucked around with this message at 16:32 on May 5, 2010 |
|
#
¿
May 5, 2010 16:30
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Of course in the 70s and 80s everyone tacked down wall-to-wall carpets right over that beautiful wood for some drat stupid reason. The house I'm living in now was built in 1929 and originally had hardwood floors throughout the house. About 70%+ of it is screwed off beyond all belief because someone during the late 70's decided to remodel with tile everywhere so we were only able to salvage a small portion of it. Also not all the hardwood matches since there were 3 build dates associated seperated by roughly 10-15 years a piece. In that instance, it's not worth salvaging so we just went slate. The guest bathroom was a nice 4 elevation floor after we took the linoleum off because there was a bubble, we had to strip off the linoleum layer, then the half rear end put down particle board layer over hardwood flooring then there was a corner of cement foundation, we're guessing it was originally part of the back porch also 2" tongue in groove below that. Just to start fresh, we floated the room, screwed down some hardybacker and tiled the room. My previous house had carpet loving everywhere! We had berber carpet in the kitchen and shag carpet in the bathrooms, the place smelled like a god drat sewer when I bought it. After we removed all the carpet, it instantly smelled better. keykey fucked around with this message at 15:54 on May 7, 2010 |
|
#
¿
May 7, 2010 15:52
|
|
|
For my rentals I prefer the cheapest semi gloss poo poo I can get in white in a 5 gallon bucket, in the past that was conco pro triple white for $30. For my own house, I've tried various brands from walmart to behr to ralph lauren and found that as long as you get it at home depot/other home labrynth store, you'll be ok with what you choose. Walmart paint is absolute poo poo. Incidentally 15 years ago I used the same 5 gallon bucket of semi gloss in my garage since I had some left over from a rental paint job and my garage interior was looking funky and it still looks perfect for a white garage that's easy to clean because it's semi gloss paint. In bathrooms I do prefer behr paint only because it's mildew resistant. edit: doing a quick google I guess conco paint is sherwin williams dollar store brand. So add sherwin williams to the list of good paint as well. ease posted:The trick to good painting is to: Also this right here to an extent. I hate painting but my wife loves it so I'll just do the construction portion of a job and she'll paint. keykey fucked around with this message at 17:33 on May 13, 2010 |
|
#
¿
May 13, 2010 17:29
|
|
|
Poknok posted:I'm having a problem with ceramic tiles - the glue my friend is using to mount tiles apparently doesn't adhere to a certain piece of stucco-covered concrete for some reason. The strange thing is that he used the exact same glue to mount the tiles a few feet away from the "cursed" spot, where it's holding up great - but tiles fell off TWICE in the bad part. He scored the wall but the tiles fell off again. What gives? If push comes to shove, you can scrape down the cursed stucko to the concrete then get some mortar like for bricks then put that on the side until you're even with where the stucco is then apply glue, stick the tile then grout around if that's the avenue you're taking. Stucco isn't a terribly good surface to be gluing things to to begin with since it has a tendency to flake away just by brushing at it. If that doesn't work, I'd check zoning for the house to make sure it wasn't built on an acient indian burial ground.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2010 08:53
|
|
|
Wagonburner posted:How much bare pipe should I leave in front of that compression ring? does a tiny bit of a cocked angle hurt? and if I need to re-do this, how do I move the ring back on the pipe some? I'm afraid I'll gently caress up the ring if I just start going at it retardedly with a pair of pliers. If you had excess pipe in front of the ring before, you should have the same amount now. If the reason is because you couldn't get the ring to go back any further, get some sandpaper and get all the crap off the pipe so you can push the compression ring on there further. Whoever built one of our rentals didn't leave much pipe coming out of the wall and the compression ring has to fit flush with the end of the pipe and hasn't been an issue, that's been 13 years ago since we changed some valves in that rental and none of them leak. I don't know what the perfect industry answer is, but I imagine as long as the compression fitting is on the pipe and has been tightened, it's not going anywhere. Though I would refit the valve if it's cocked to one side. edit: If you take the fitting back off, you can try the pliers method before sand paper. Firmly grab the compression ring with the pliers and twist it back and forth while pushing toward the wall to see if it will go back further. Make sure not to squeeze the ring too much as to crush it with the tool though. keykey fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Jun 30, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2010 17:34
|
|
|
120 or 150 grit. Really you just want to knock the crap off the pipe, not really sand the hell out of it, once you see some original copper coloring, stop.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2010 17:53
|
|
|
dwoloz posted:I'm putting up 6 cement pier foundations and 2 will fall on top of an existing cement patio (4" thick). Id like to remove the cement from the patio just in the two roughly 2ftx2ft squares I need for the foundation. The square cut outs do not need to be clean looking. Go to home depot tool rental and get a tool called a concrete saw, you'll thank god you did this instead of going a hammer and chisel route which would be a complete pain in the rear end. As long as the section is 4" deep you're good to go as the saw they rent out will do 5" deep cuts.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2010 17:11
|
|
|
thelightguy posted:I've got a Maytag A806 washer from like 1977 that's recently gone like way off balance. Does anyone have a clue how to balance the drum on one of these things, or even a general idea of where to look? It's walking a foot or so every time I do a load. Everything I've googled points to a bad snubber. Here's a link that may be helpful? I dunno. The tbrady post outlines how to change the snubber though not on your exact model. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/5154-washing-machine-spin-cycle-off-balance.html
|
|
#
¿
Jul 21, 2010 17:43
|
|
|
WorkingStiff posted:I'm curious as to whether it is free-standing. I can't mount anything to the walls. The only way I see that type of setup free standing is to add a foot to the structure and add 100+ lbs of ballast to the bottom. It can be done, it just won't look exactly like that. edit: something like this,  Click here for the full 500x626 image. Hide the lead weight on the inside of the box. Also, don't make it crazy tall, the taller it is, the more unstable it will be. You know, leverage and all. keykey fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Aug 9, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Aug 9, 2010 18:28
|
|
|
^^^ Go to your local big box store and look for a longer mason drill bit, that will at least speed up the process. It's still going to look ugly but there's nothing short of an industrial concrete saw that you can use to get the job done and the ones at home depot rent only go to a depth of, I believe, 5 inches.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 10, 2010 16:11
|
|
|
wormil posted:While remodeling I removed one door and need the hole bricked up and the brick to fit in with the old brick. In another spot I replaced a double window with a french door and need brick filled in around the door. I'm debating doing it myself or hiring a mason (which I'm told are very expensive). Anyone done brickwork? Advice? Actual brickwork is pretty easy, the hardest thing is going to be finding brick that matches the old brick. Fortunately they sell used brick at home depot/lowes. You can also look for used brick on craigslist. As for removing the current brick mortar so you can put "new" bricks in, get out your hammer and chisel and gently work away until you have open spaces to fit the new brick. If you need to cut the brick to fit a certain size hole, use a circular saw or grinder with a masonry blade. You can do it by hand but if you have more than one to do, then it's worth it for the saw. As far as grouting, match the grout color up, mix the grout to what the bag says then get a trowel and other tools to work into holes from home depot. Also, get some latex gloves so you can work with your fingers, it's easier to do the final grout lines with just your finger to get it nice and smooth if you're filling in between bricks. I learned the latex glove trick the hard way. The first time I did it by hand and my fingers were dried out and cracking the next day from the chemicals in the grout. I've done this method on my own house without having to use muriatic acid and it worked out great and matched the old finish. Hope that helps out and answers your question.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2010 19:14
|
|
|
Ahz posted:The cordless won't have the power. Not on the first charge anyway.. 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2010 18:03
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:Why is my ceiling fan mounted like this? Every employee milling around the Home Depot lighting section looked at the photo with bewilderment. First off, the ceiling fan is currently hung with a hook because it was done by a good ol' boy. If there is a load bearing wood beam going through the length at the top, which I would assume there is given it's the apex of the roof, there's no reason to not use lag bolts. That hook setup is an accident waiting to happen to say the least. edit: don't forget to drill pilot holes before you anchor the fan to the lag bolts because you wouldn't want to split wood, that's a bad place for that accident to happen. keykey fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Nov 22, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2010 22:26
|
|
|
the yeti posted:Electric dryer (Kenmore 400 if it matters) Replacing 3-prong cord with 4-prong.  This is what I'm finding for that specific model. Hope that helps. The green from dryer and white from cord go on the same screw. Makes sense though, when rewiring a 2-3 prong gfci grounded outlet, you have to make a jumper wire from the white wire (neutral) to ground screw (green) in order for it to read correct with a tester. What you have on that dryer are 2 positives (black and red) 1 neutral (white) and 1 ground (green). I take it you're connecting it to a 4 prong outlet? Why would you previously have a 3 prong cord on it? keykey fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Nov 23, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2010 17:31
|
|
|
stubblyhead posted:And I'll repost a question I just put in the A/T small questions thread since this might be a better venue for it. It is winter here, and I have an old house. I get a lot of condensation on the inside of my windows, to the point that it starts dripping down the walls and poo poo. I'm worried about mold happening or causing electrical problems, so is there anything I can do to prevent/reduce this, short of installing double-pane windows? If it's not too bad or if nothing has became of the condensation issue yet, you can usually get by using some mold and mildew resistant paint. I had the same problem at my old house, it had large single pane windows in the front room and every year it would sweat on the inside because of the difference in temperature between inside and outside. Anyway, mine was fairly severe where I had to scrape out the rotten portion of wood/drywall then repair it and paint. After caulking using joint compound, I first painted with a layer of Kilz to cover up previous discolored water damaged area after sanding and such then used Behr bathroom paint which is made specifically for damp environments and it worked perfect. If you have a lot of windows, it's gonna take some time, but it's better to take the time once then to have to screw with it a few times a year.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2010 00:09
|
|
|
No. 9 posted:The lights have been flickering in our downstairs room occasionally starting today. It just flickered from dim to regular for about a minute. It was all the lights -- we have string lights from one outlet and a lamp from another outlet across the room. No other appliances were turned on or anything when it started happening. Check to see if you have anything plugged into a loose outlet. If you can put a plug into an outlet and it feels loose or if it comes out a bit, change that outlet. Either that or does it happen when an appliance turns on like an electric heater or something?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2010 16:40
|
|
|
No. 9 posted:The fact its happening to two sets of lights from different outlets doesn't lead me to think it's from one outlet itself. Didn't happen when an appliance turned out, like you'd expect. Seemed random. Those lights are most likely on the same breaker and are in line with each other. Turn a breaker off to make sure they are on the same breaker, if they are, then I'd replace both outlets on general principle. You can get 3 prong outlets at any home store for around $1.50 each. That would be a good place to start. I'd also get a tester and see how many other outlets are on the same breaker. You're gonna have to do some digging. stubblyhead posted:Thanks for the tip, I'll look into that. I would really like to just stop the condensation entirely, though. Would that window shrink wrap stuff help with this any? No window application will stop the condensation, even if you have double pane windows, it will still build up in the middle layer leaving you with fogged windows which really sucks. When your house is warm inside, water vapor turns to water when it comes into contact with a cold surface. The only thing I can think of that would take care of condensation entirely would be a dehumidifier. But a whole house dehumidifier would run roughly $1000 + installation.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2010 18:42
|
|
|
wormil posted:I prefer Quartz also but it is now more expensive than most granite which is why I didn't mention it. Five years ago quartz and Corian were comparable in price but not anymore; at least not around here. Corian is $2 a linear foot more expensive than granite around here. I can't figure out why anybody would ever consider intalling corian over granite.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2010 18:35
|
|
|
Alterian posted:I need to put up some fence posts in my backyard and I was wondering how warm it has to be for the cement to dry properly? I live in NC so its not *too* cold. Today the high is going to be 60 and the low is going to be 35. The average for the next month is going to be highs in the mid 50's and lows in the low 30's. I'd like to get them in asap so I can put up my fence so my chickens stop getting out of my yard. I'd stay away from cement with fence posts unless you're only planning on living where you're at for 10 years or less, all it will do is rot out your posts over time since rain will get the board wet and go below the cement line. What happens is the water seeps in and over time creates dry rot because cement doesn't breathe and the board doesn't dry out. Best thing to do is get pressure treated 4x4's and reuse the dirt you'd be taking out with post hole diggers or get new dirt, toss some dirt in, then pack it in around the post, more dirt, pack down further. I've had fence posts last between 7 and 20 years cemented in depending on rain conditions but using dirt and packing it down I've not had a fence post go bad yet and I'm working on 25 years with one of my fences. edit: Another option is pea gravel. Just do yourself a favor and don't use cement. keykey fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Jan 31, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Jan 31, 2011 17:58
|
|
|
stubblyhead posted:Other than exterior house paint, what's a good paint to use for something outdoors? It's a very small something, so I don't think house paint would be economical. Rattlecan that sumbitch with Krylon! Seriously though, what dimensions and material are you working with?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2011 17:40
|
|
|
taqueso posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for a good "best value" interior paint? You could also scope out Home Depot and Lowes "oops" paint as well. Just check back every few days and wait for a paint color you like. Typically you can get really good paint such as Ralph Lauren and Behr for about $10 a gallon. That is if you only need a gallon because good luck on finding matching colors if you need more than a gallon of paint for your project. Other than that, get the contractors 5 gallon bucket. We use the Home Depot brand du jour in semi gloss for our rentals and that works out well but you can get it in any finish you want. If you need bathroom paint though, all Behr has a base in it that won't mold or mildew.
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2011 21:32
|
|
|
Elijya posted:One, just got a wall mounted display cabinet that has a mirror backing and so weighs about 30 pounds. To hang it, there's two small tabs at the top. I think the previous owners had it in a stone wall. I need it to go on drywall and not come crashing down, which I think it will with the hang tabs. I'm hoping maybe two small L brackets from HD/Lowes will do the trick? These are cheap and work beautiful. They are rated @ 159 lbs: http://www.lowes.com/pd_114823-10337-50325_0__?productId=3181731&Ntt=wall+anchor&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dwall%2Banchor Also, has anyone in here done stained concrete? If so, how big of a pain in the rear end is it or is it something that you would have just hired out since it's a time consuming process? My wife wants to go with it for our rear living room/kitchen hangout area where the kids spend alot of time. keykey fucked around with this message at 16:54 on May 6, 2011 |
|
#
¿
May 6, 2011 16:52
|
|
|
So... Our suffering for art phase is over and it's now time to do what the previous owners should have done when they decided to add on to the back of the house.. Insulate the roof! So I was looking at different options this weekend and we're gonna go with polystyrene insulation board. Not a big deal in and of itself to add, just 1 question though. You can get a 4'x8'x1" board for $10 or you can get a 4'x8'x2" board for $25. Both are the same construction besides the thickness of the foam. My thoughts are to get 2 1" pieces because not only is it $5 cheaper but each piece also has the "thermal barrier" a.k.a. foil on one side then foam in thickness on the other so that would increase the R value further, right?
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2011 16:43
|
|
|
Vehementi posted:I am getting blackout roller shades for my apartment. I apparently have a choice of several materials, including at least 4-ply vinyl and other normal/designer fabrics. The vinyl ones are cheaper. Are there any functional differences? Or is it just look? They're all the same. The only reason you'd get different colors or material is purely aesthetic.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2011 17:07
|
|
|
dur posted:If it's a flatscreen, you can use the VESA mount holes to attach a shelf for the speaker to sit on. Make sure you get the right size screws so you don't damage the threads - the sizes are listed Holy poo poo, I never even thought of fixing a shelf to the vesa mount holes. This is along the lines of simple things that make you think,"drat.. Why didn't I think of that." Thank you for the new Kinect camera thingy/wii bar mount.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 8, 2011 22:32
|
|
|
SkunkDuster posted:Is there a trick to cutting the hole for mounting an electrical box like this one? If you're going through drywall, get this tool: http://tinyurl.com/8896pl5 If you're going through wood, get this tool: http://tinyurl.com/6to2jjf Either way, you'll save yourself a lot of headache using one of those rather than trying to DIY it yourself with a sawzall or other tools. Remember, you can always cut wider, but you can never cut any narrower. keykey fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Mar 19, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2012 19:27
|
|
|
I'd chisel the extended bit off the house to make it look a little more proper, then do what PainterofCrap said and put some caulk on the edge and use masonry screws to secure it to the side of the house. If you're not comfortable using masonry screws or under the mound of crap it isn't cement, you can always get wall anchors and the proper bit to mount it. Personally, I'd leave the old vent duct in place, get some cement and fill the wall flat first so it wouldn't look as odd then before it dries, remove the dryer vent so there's a perfect hole for your new installation then use masonry screws and caulk to secure the new vent in place. edit: ^^^^ yes, remove the foam. I couldn't tell if it was foam or old cement that had something rusty dripping on it from the photo.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2012 22:07
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:I'll post more in my thread but I'm working on a sound system that's completely hidden and this could be a solution. This is probably a dumb question, but why would you want to install a completely hidden sound system? What's the point or are you just that paranoid? Also, if you just need volume and the thing comes with an IR remote, just solder a few wires and extend the IR receiver to a spot on your dash.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2012 16:44
|
|
|
Use a fumigator like PainterofCrap said then use this stuff right here to keep a perimeter outside your house: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/termidor-sc-p-184.html PainterofCrap also hit the nail on the head, it doesn't mean you have a cleanliness issue, it just means certain variables are at play. For us, we live close to a river so if we don't keep up on spraying, we get overran pretty quickly nevermind the fact we have cleaning ladies that come to the house once a week that disinfect and clean every little thing. I forgot one quarter and paid the consequences. Also, invest in some pyrethrin based product for your kitchen area to keep the little bastards out. Pyrethrin can be used around food surfaces to give you an extra barrier of protection. This is what we use around our kitchen: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/exciter-insecticide-p-671.html Hope this helps you out, cockroaches are a pain in the rear end especially if you live in an area prone to them which we didn't know until we moved here a few years ago. Edit: You can compare prices here too: http://www.doyourownpestcontrol.com/ keykey fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Apr 18, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2012 19:48
|
|
|
coyo7e posted:The trimmer is a Kioritz SRM-302, I think it's from the late 80s or early 90s. I don't know if this'll help or not, but this came up: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kioritz-Parts/Brush-cutter-Parts/Model-SRM302AOX/0591/1503802 edit: If there's no spark, the problem is going to be somewhere in the magneto.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2012 22:33
|
|
|
Bank posted:My wife loves poppies so maybe we'll grab some. Not sure how well they grow around here (I live in the fog bank so it's foggy 50% of the year; even summer), but I'll check it out. Anything (other than weeds) beats dirt. You might want to check with your local laws before you go planting california poppies, a.k.a. opium plants. When we bought the land we live on, there were some california poppies where the home site is. When the city came out to survey/do inspections they told us we couldn't build where we wanted because they were native to our area. So, a little bit of talking and some greased palms and the conclusion we came to was we could "relocate" them. One of the interesting city arguments during the whole shitfit was is we didn't have them, we weren't allowed to plant any because of the whole opium thing, but since we already had them we weren't allowed to remove them. CA, making home owners facepalm 1 incident at a time. I also have this shiny new water meter that's never been hooked up/monitored since they told me I had to buy it 13 years ago and they'd get around to hooking it up.
|
|
#
¿
May 2, 2012 17:04
|
|
|
coyo7e posted:Big, big difference between a hundred year old saguaro and a bunch of weeds that happen to be a state flower, especially considering that the poster sounds like he was going off of some bizarre hearsay about cali poppies producing opium. I'm not a specialist on plant species by any means, nor do I pretend to be. I'm just going off what the inspector told me I had to do to get him to sign off on my building permits. He gave me misinformation about the type of plant, but the main point here is after much groveling and inflating his ego, we reached an agreement where I could move the drat things so I could build where they infested the land. Point being, check with local/state laws before planting things you may not be able to move/relocate very easily. And even more importantly, talk with a city inspector before doing things like that to make sure it's no problem. It's better to have them in your pocket than going against you.
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2012 17:36
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 20, 2024 10:30 |
|
|
dwoloz posted:they're protected but you are free to plant them or remove them if it's your own property Maybe I just drew the reject building inspector that cost me an additional $1000 a 2 days of work to replant poo poo so I wouldn't be uprooting something that apparently was protected in the valley or maybe even the law has changed in 12 years. I'm simply stating that's what happened to me and it's better to err on the side of caution than to have problems later on, especially in CA since they're looking for revenue any way they can right now.
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2012 20:50
|
|