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Death Pants posted:So the fan on my outside condenser unit for the A/C has decided to stop turning on. The capacitor is good and the blades spin freely. I assume that the motor has burned out, but I'm not sure exactly how to test that. How did you test that the capacitor is still good? The first test you could try is for continuity in the stator windings, second being to test for a short circuit between the windings and the motor frame. If you were to fix it, you would be better off taking the motor to an electric motor repair joint.
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Apr 6, 2008 11:44
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Does anyone know if there is an off-delay timer that can be used in a domestic setting? I will be using it for an exhaust fan and I am looking for something that will run for 10-20 mins when switched off. I have found a couple of light & exhaust off-delay timers (like this) however I am looking for something that is more exhaust/ single appliance only. I have fired off a few emails to some local manufacturers but I thought I would ask here to see if anyone knew of anything out there. I have a 230v single phase supply here though if there are devices for other supply voltages it might be able to lead me on the right path. Edit: I have also found this which is also similar to what I am after, however I want to use a standard switch as the activator, not a sensor. I'd also prefer not to butcher anything (i.e. disecting this device to make a switch the activator). Mordialloc fucked around with this message at 13:46 on Jul 14, 2008 |
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Jul 14, 2008 13:39
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Fire Storm posted:Electrical question: According to code, if underground rated power cable is not readily available, can standard cable be run in a buried conduit? Standard cable should be the same as underground cable in terms of composition, diameter and insulation. It is the installation conditions that determine its rating (i.e. cable run underground can handle a different ammount of current than the same cable run through a house, primarily this is due to the temperature difference). Make sure that any cable that you bury underground is burried at the right depth and using the right conduit for mechanical protection. If you get another drop to your garage, be aware that you will likely face another meter as well as account keeping costs for that meter (some companies require an account per meter and may make you pay for the meter itself as well as for the installation of that meter). Easiest way to tell if it is single or 3-phase tranny is to count how many of the supply cables are running into it. If there are 3 supply cable running into the tranny it is likely 3-phase, if there are only 2 then it is likely single phase. Electricity are more likely to use 3-phase transformers as this makes it easier (and cheaper in the long run) to split the loads evenly through street/neighbourhood.
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Jul 16, 2008 12:13
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kapalama posted:Has anyone ever used Split Ring pliers? I had a pair but I have no idea where (or even what kind of store, or what country) I bought them in. And when I moved back from Japan they were part of what I left behind. What kind of stores have you tried? How soon do you need them? Can you order a pair on the internet?
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Jul 16, 2008 12:21
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Carousel posted:I am wondering if I can connect the 4 core main line to my 2 runs with 3 way scotch locks, making not of the colour code, and re-using the same colour code with the CAT5 to wire into the 610 sockets? Not quite sure what you are asking here. As long as you maintain the same colour arrangement (so that any future installation work is easy, not for any technical reason), or close to it, you should not have any problems using CAT5 in a telephone socket, trimming away the cores you don't use. Not sure if this is what you are asking though. Keep a terminal diagram of what you are disconnecting so that you don't mess it up. Probably suck eggs stuff for you though. Can you run 4 core telephone cable along with CAT5? Depends how long your run is, you could end up with interference over long runs. If you have the option to, I'd keep about 100mm clearance between them to limit any interference in the telephone cable. Does this answer?
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Jul 21, 2008 12:31
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Carousel posted:Yeah that helps sorry it was kinda unclear. Phones still use 610's so you shouldn't have a problem there, unless you are installing new sockets in which I would go for RJs as they seem to be what everything is moving too, and they fit the standard pattern. Not sure about scotchloks, I haven't done much with them, but they seem to be a simpler solution to a Krone block.
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Jul 21, 2008 13:47
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Carousel posted:I got it all working, but I'm still having the same old trouble for why i ran the new cables anyway. what is the problem? Fire Storm: A 3 phase tranny for a powercompany will only have a neutral cable coming in from the homes it supplies due to the tranformer setup they will likely use. This saves money on a whole cable if they had a neutral in the transmission side. It is done sometimes, but not often.
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Jul 23, 2008 10:26
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kapalama posted:Good call there, and easy to see explanation. Any idea on how to do the same on the far side of the zipper pull What you can do is stitch some nylon webbing straps across the bag opening. Nylon webbing is very tough. Depending on you other requirements, you can then attach press button clips to the bag and webbing. If you need something longer, you can stitch something like this across the opening and use velcro to tidy any extra strap: http://www.gleasoncamping.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2248
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Aug 2, 2008 03:52
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Edmond Dantes posted:Quick favour: If you are not sure what effect you want straight away, you can try out some different setups by sampling first using incandescent bulbs. They are much cheaper (esp in the budget brands) so for like $5 you could have between 5 - 10 different bulbs. Once you have found one you like get the closest match with a compact fluoro. A hardware or lighting store should have a number of lamp shades that can easily be fitted to a ceiling rose lamp for added effect. If you are looking for dimming lamps, you can get some (slightly more expensive) compact fluoros that have a dimming circuit integrated into their design. The bonus? You don't need any special switching to get them to work. They work kind of similar to a touch lamp, where a series of switching combinations sets the light level. The only thing that you may have to consider is that its a stepped gradient as opposed to a smooth gradient which you get with a dimmer mech. If you were after a smooth dimmer, you will not be able to use them with fluoro bulbs.
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Aug 14, 2008 08:43
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OlyMike posted:I have a quick question. I just bought a house (signed and finalized yesterday)and all is well and good except for one pressing thing at the moment. Everytime I go in to finish up the painting and work on the yard, the bathtub has one or two more spiders in it. Large spiders. What are the chances that they are coming up from the sewer? Could it be because the house was vacant for some time and they moved into the pipes or something? There are no spiders I've been able to spot in the entire house besides here. Anyone else encountered this? You can organise a pest treatment if you haven't moved in completely yet (or even if you have, maybe). Next time you go outside, block the plumbing with plugs to determine if it is the plumbing they are coming from. Check the bathroom for any cracks in the wall esp ones that give direct access to outside. Fill your bathtub and any sinks with water. If there is a main bathroom drain, pour some large buckets of hot water down there. Then let the sinks drain and pour more hot water down them, then same with bathtub.
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Aug 20, 2008 09:37
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Sapper posted:Bend a small sewing needle into a curve, and use 100% synthetic thread, keep all of it in rubbing alcohol until you go to sew yourself up. Super glue works as well for a little while, if you're really up the creek.
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Aug 21, 2008 08:28
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kapalama posted:Does this work for covering up holes? (Never tried covering places where skin is missing) I guess it would depend on the size of the hole. I only used it when I had a fairly deep but thin cut and didn't have the means to go to the doc straight away. If skin is missing, I generally let it scab, though I've never got anything worse than a fairly good graze.
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Aug 21, 2008 10:20
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Hi there, I have a question for those with brick laying experience. I'm considering bricking in a brick-pillared carport myself over having a bricklayer do it for me. The slab is already laid, all that needs to be done is laying some walls and fitting windows an a door. Its not a particularly big job, pretty much laying in one wall. Is there any trick to laying bricks? I haven't done it before, though I will be attempting to make a brick wood-fired oven/bbq before hand to get my technique right. To those with bricking experience, are there any tricks I can employ? Anything I should be wary of? Any brick specific tools I should use (I will have a trowel, wheelbarrow for the mortar, and a level) which will make the job alot easier? Or should I get a bricklayer in and save myself a world of hassle?
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Sep 1, 2008 09:01
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Haikeeba! posted:This is a copy of a post I made in the last thread where someone asked about bricklaying, it should be mostly relevant. Thanks very much! What would be the best way to make rake finishes?
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Sep 2, 2008 10:00
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I'll have to see what method the pillars are and let you know which effect I'm after. Thanks again.
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Sep 2, 2008 14:23
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BrokenDynasty posted:My bedside fan stopped working the other day. I turn the power knob from off to on (any of the three on settings) and nothing happens anymore. I took off the back panel, and this is what I see: Do you have a multimeter? Places I would check would be the switch and then the motor to locate where the opem circuit is. Desk fans are fairly cheap though and you can easily buy a new one for less than the effort to fix it. Re: Soldering Question: What are you trying to solder? Unless its really compact work (in which I would use solder paste and a hot air gun), you are going to get excellent heat transfer with a wider tip. Make sure you keep all your tips tinned and they will work fine all the time. With my irons, I started with a point and filed out a wider tip surface. They are good for anything from some automotive connections to electronic hobby kits.
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Sep 22, 2008 07:27
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Why not take the fuse out and leave it out? That way you aren't supplying power to something you don't know about and costing you money. Unless the fuse is for other things as well? What other appliances do you have in your home? It could be something in your circuit that helps with power factor correction.
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Sep 27, 2008 03:32
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Where is the fridge in relation to the noise? If its close (i.e. against) to the wall, it could be spreading the noise through the walls when the compressor turns on. A long shot, but not unheard of. Other possibilities could be an exhaust fan left on. Another possibility, does your living room have a lot of low voltage down lights? Do these rooms have ceiling fans that are left on?
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Sep 29, 2008 09:31
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Can you describe the noise some more? Does it feature any rattling? How loud is it? Is there any part in the wall where the noise gets louder? Are you able to fell it when you put your hand on the wall? Also, is your TV signal amplified in any way? What kind of fittings are on that entire side that has the balcony?
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Sep 30, 2008 14:07
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I'm at a loss as to what it could be... I think that the likely culprit is something that is reverberating through your wall from another area. Things such as extraction/exhaust fans, fluorescent ballasts, fish tank pumps, computer power supplies or anything that has a motor or uses a different voltage would be the likely cause.
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Oct 1, 2008 12:47
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wigtrade.cc posted:My dad tried this when I was at work and didn't turn off the fuse/switch and shorted out the upstairs so now we need an electrician so make sure all power is off when you try that That is even more awesome!
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Oct 28, 2008 09:00
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FamousThomas posted:I'm pretty new to electronics so possibly a dumb question: What kind of motor? It will work if it is a DC motor. Dynamos that used to be fitted to bicycles worked on that principle. The problem is that a DC motor isn't properly designed to generate power, in the same way that a sedan isn't properly designed to race F1 cars.
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Nov 11, 2008 09:20
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Eye_Pennies posted:Yes it is caulked but the caulk is peeling away all around the edge of the window fitting, but especially at the top. That looks like it is most likely condensation. How much sun does that window get? My guess is not much at all. If the window can open, I'd suggest that you open it a crack so that any moist air can escape as the condensation evaporates. If you don't get any sun in that spot, a de-humidifier in that room should take care of it also. This is all after you have cleaned the mould and re-applied the No-More-Gaps.
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Dec 4, 2008 06:51
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Richard Noggin posted:I'd start with a wooden-handled lawsuit, and follow it up with some salt and sand. Does your system store hot water? If so, what is its capacity? From the sound of it, the water is heated but then not maintained in the storage tank, so overnight it is cooled to the temperature of the first shower. When the first shower happens, the water is drained and fresh hot water is then made and stored in the tank. Since there is less time the hot water is sitting there, it has less time to cool. Mordialloc fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Dec 23, 2008 |
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Dec 23, 2008 04:23
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How old is the system? Has this been a recurring issue, or something that has started recently? Also is the unit located inside or outside? And how cold does it get where the HWS is?
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Dec 23, 2008 13:42
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Richard Noggin posted:As far as I know, it's ~15 years old. It's been a problem since we've owned the house (5 years). It's located in a utility closet in my garage, which gets pretty cold - easily below freezing in the garage, but probably slightly above in the closet due to the furnace and water heater. Unfortunately, I don't have the option of relocating it as we don't have a basement. Well that rules out the issue of a broken system. The problem is likely with the amount of time the hot water is exposed to a cold clime when not in use. Things you could try to battle the problem (with limited results maybe) could be to put an insulative cover on all pipes in and out of the unit to block off any extra heat escape. If it was something you were inclined to fix or replace, I would look at an instantaneous system. There's no storage tank so no lower temp water and it wont run out. The down side is that it can use more gas to heat as there is a shorter time that the water can be exposed to the heat source.
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Dec 24, 2008 07:55
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Richard Noggin posted:Yeah, it is probably about time to replace it. I've heard bad things about having a tankless on a well though, due to the pressure changes that come from the well pump cycling. If that is the case, then I would look at ways to overcome the heat loss where it is located. Things like cladding, extra insulation on the tank and a hotter water temp are things that may help. A hot water plumber in your area may be more helpful though as they would have more experience in dealing with your problem and how best to combat it.
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Dec 24, 2008 22:50
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Local Yokel posted:Alright, I'll start here. Our back door requires that you pull rather hard on the knob in orer to get the deadbolt to engage. Do I need to shape the door jam somehow? Is this problem best solved by replacing the jam? The seal isn't great on the door either - cool air can be felt flowing inside the door when it is cold outside. This isn't ideal. Closing the door: Is the door exposed to alot of the elements (i.e. not under a cover/awning or the cover is really shallow)? What may have happened is that the door may have expanded due to moisture. It also could be that the person who installed the door misaligned the the bolt's hole in the frame. If the hole has a metal cover, it could be possible to adjust it to fit. If not, you may have to expand the cover's screw holes. Lock replacement: I haven't seen lock cores for sale on their own, only complete hardware kits. A locksmith may be cheaper esp if you get a number of quotes and play them off each other.
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Jan 13, 2009 04:36
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Local Yokel posted:This is the hole for the deadbolt - it looks a little abused. Certainly looks abused! You can see that the hole is much bigger than the plate. Depending on availability, a strip of foam may do the trick. It usually has adhesive on one side. I've seen it come in a roll.
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Jan 13, 2009 06:00
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Do you have a picture? What is its texture (i.e. hard or rubbery)? Things that come to mind are standard silicon or a dark kind of filler, but ive only seen white stuff here.
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Jan 16, 2009 03:29
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Xoobee posted:I'm sorry if this has been posted already, in 25 pages I could've missed something... You could try a plunger with water in the bathtub. Might be enough to get it moving. Where I am, it was considerably cheaper to get a plumber with an eel than it was to hire an eel. (Plumber cost $90, eel cost $150 a day).
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Jan 18, 2009 07:30
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helli bubbles posted:I have a question about circuits in a relatively old place (I think it was built in the 50s or 60s). The landlord plans to tear the place down so hasn't kept up any maintenance recently, that I can see. My boyfriend likes to leave the lights on all the time so this hasn't been a problem for him. I find that when I turn them off, when I try to turn them on again the next day the fluorescent bulb is busted. I've tested them in other lights and they're just dead. Have you tried replacing the starters in your fluoro's?
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Feb 11, 2009 08:28
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