Fix it Fast: The Early Years 2008-2020

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Death Pants: Aug 6, 2003; It took me 4 years to hit the HOT Tag

perfect timing for this forum to open. I just managed to score a killer deal on vinyl peel and stick tile for my house (300 sq/ft for 10 cents). We've needed to replace the linoleum in our house since we moved in but have not had the money/time.

Everyone I've talked to has told me removing the old linoleum/adhesive is a royal pain. Does anyone have any experience with this or suggestions on the easiest methods of removal?

# ¿ Jan 7, 2008 18:42

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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 10:31

Death Pants: Aug 6, 2003; It took me 4 years to hit the HOT Tag

its concrete underneath. Laying on top of the old really isn't an option. The installers did a real poo poo job so it's peeling up in a lot of places. How much of an issue would it cause to rip up the old, but still leave the adhesive gunk on the concrete?

# ¿ Jan 7, 2008 19:16

Death Pants: Aug 6, 2003; It took me 4 years to hit the HOT Tag

friendship waffle posted:

You need new adhesive.

well, its the peel and stick vinyl (1X1 squares) so it has its own adhesive. But it was probably a stupid question. If I'm taking the time to remove all the old, I might as well go for broke and not half-rear end it.

# ¿ Jan 7, 2008 19:23

Death Pants: Aug 6, 2003; It took me 4 years to hit the HOT Tag

Maybe my question could've been its own thread. Thanks for all the advice so far guys. I'll be starting on the removal sometime tonight after work

# ¿ Jan 7, 2008 21:15

Death Pants: Aug 6, 2003; It took me 4 years to hit the HOT Tag

well the hits just keep on coming. While doing laundry tonight my electric dryer decided it no longer wanted to dry the clothes but rather just tumble them around for an hour or so. When I asked the dryer if it was still under warranty it laughed and then threw a sock at me. As happy as I was to have the missing sock back, I'm still upset that it no longer wants to do it's job.

So how hard is it to diagnose and fix these things and or would it just be better to suck it up, get a payday advance and call a repair man.

# ¿ Jan 19, 2008 08:22

Death Pants: Aug 6, 2003; It took me 4 years to hit the HOT Tag

Blowupologist posted:

Sounds like a problem with the heater unit. A quick Google search has linked to this website, which seems to be pretty thorough.

hey thanks man. Turns out it was the heating coil, probably one of the easiest things to install in the thing. Ordered a replacement, thanks again

# ¿ Jan 21, 2008 06:43

Death Pants: Aug 6, 2003; It took me 4 years to hit the HOT Tag

The System posted:

I didn't want to make a new thread about something that has an answer online. I have a question about the online answer.

I'm hoping to make a clothes dryer run properly. It heats clothes on most cycles without drying them. Only when using the fluff dry/low heat mode does it manage to dry clothes, and it takes two or three times running at that cycle to do that.

Going by online advice, the dryer is clogged somehow and needs to be cleared. I would like to know if I can do this using a shop vac using suction.

I haven't looked at the outside vent yet. Is it fairly easy to disassemble the vent to the outside and clear it?

I just took my dryer apart to replace the heating coil, and while I was at it vaced out the vent. Most units have a kick plate on the back that gives you access to the guts. Mine was pretty simple but your results may vary.

This site that Blowupologist found when I had a problem was very helpful.

# ¿ Jan 31, 2008 22:28

Death Pants: Aug 6, 2003; It took me 4 years to hit the HOT Tag

Briantist posted:

I have some flooring questions. My girlfriend and I are replacing the flooring in a basement. There is carpet down there right now, and under the carpet is padding and tackboard around the edges, and under that is concrete. We just noticed as we were painting that in one corner of the room the carpet is wet. We just had a really heavy rain. I don't think it leaks normally.

At the moment, we're not sure exactly where the water is coming in; we'll have to lift up the carpet and padding and check it out. I've seen multiple people mention in this thread that concrete seeps moisture; is this something that could be caused by this property of concrete, or is it definitely a leak of some kind? It wasn't just a small spot; it covered a couple of square feet, but there wasn't standing water anywhere so it wasn't a total flood.

In addition, we're looking to replace the carpet and we're thinking of going with laminate floors instead of new carpet, since we found decent laminate floors at the same price/cheaper than decent carpet. What kind of preparations do we have to take in installing this over concrete? Should we put something else down first? One of the laminate floors we looked at had a rubber backing to it. Would the procedure change for that type of flooring? How difficult is it to put this stuff in? It just snaps together; it looks really easy but we've never done it.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

I know I'm late (as usual) but the plastic is a must. Lay it down and have more than enough (so that it crawls up the wall a bit. After you lay the floor you can then cut the excess with a utility knife before replacing the molding.

If you have one in your area, http://www.lumberliquidators.com is a great place to get flooring. It's cheaper than you can get at HomeDepot or Lowes as long as you don't mind installing it yourself. I just picked up 500sq ft of 12mm engineered flooring for 99 cents a sq ft.

For a self install you are going to need a table saw with a carbide blade to cut the flooring to fit. You will probably also need a jigsaw to cut the pieces to fit around door frames.

When doing a self install you will probably need another person to help you start the floor, holding it in place until it has enough weight to stay put on it's own. It's not a difficult job, just time consuming.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2008 20:00

Death Pants: Aug 6, 2003; It took me 4 years to hit the HOT Tag

After replacing my carpet with engineered wood flooring, I now need to replace the baseboards/trim. I went to HomoDepot and the cheapest is around $1 a linear ft. Does anyone have any ideas on better deals?

I'd rather not spend another $300 just on trim if I can get it cheaper.

# ¿ Mar 25, 2008 17:11

Death Pants: Aug 6, 2003; It took me 4 years to hit the HOT Tag

Sapper posted:

Can you just place shoe molding at the bottom of the baseboard to cover the gap between the floor and the old baseboard, stained/painted to match?

Otherwise, you can be cheap and pick out the best 3"x1"x8(10,12,14)' stuff and use that as baseboard- I did that to finish off a few accessory rooms at our old place. Still costs, but not like baseboard does. Looks good enough if you stain/paint it.

Do NOT get that cheap rubber stickyback poo poo. It looks terrible and peels loose quickly.

shoe molding is probably what I'll be doing. I'm trying to sell this place so there is no way the stickyback was even a consideration

# ¿ Mar 25, 2008 20:23

Death Pants: Aug 6, 2003; It took me 4 years to hit the HOT Tag

NickNails posted:

I've just begun installing laminate flooring in my living room and dining room. I can't decide what to do about the trim molding. Right now, the current trim goes all the way to the sub-floor. I figure there are two options:

1) Remove all of the trim, put the floor in, and put new trim.
2) Leave the trim there, install the floor, then install quarter-round.

Any ideas on which way is better? Unfortunately, I am leaning towards option 1.

i would (and did) remove the existing trim and replace it afterwards. If the existing flooring is carpet, you will probably have to remove it anyway to get up the carpet, padding and tack strips

# ¿ Mar 28, 2008 17:37

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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 10:31

Death Pants: Aug 6, 2003; It took me 4 years to hit the HOT Tag

So the fan on my outside condenser unit for the A/C has decided to stop turning on. The capacitor is good and the blades spin freely. I assume that the motor has burned out, but I'm not sure exactly how to test that.

# ¿ Apr 6, 2008 01:30

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